Pruning and fertilizing gooseberries in spring. Spring gooseberry care. Trimming and shaping. Feeding and fertilizers

Gooseberry is one of the main berry bushes found in gardens. It quickly produces a harvest in 2-3 years, which increases with each season. Fruiting can continue for quite a long time - for 20–30 years, but for this you need to create suitable conditions for the bush.

Growing gooseberries

To obtain tasty and sweet berries, you must follow the rules of planting and care. Without attention, the gooseberries become smaller and acquire a sour taste.

Gooseberries are the most productive of berry crops; up to 20–25 kg of berries can be collected from one bush

Planting and replanting gooseberries, soil preparation

Planting and replanting can be carried out in both spring and autumn, but it is best to schedule this work in September - early October. The replanting must be completed 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost so that the bush has time to take root in its new location.

When transplanting gooseberries, shorten the branches to 3–5 buds and deepen the root collar

When planting gooseberries, keep in mind that they do not like strong shading and excess moisture, and follow simple rules:

choose a lighted, non-wetland place;
the distance to the neighboring bush should be at least 2 m;
prepare a planting hole (for 1–2-year-old seedlings, up to 0.5 m in width and depth is enough);
apply fertilizers (organic or mineral);
prepare the seedling (remove dried roots, trim branches, leaving 5 buds);
plant the seedling at an angle, cover it with soil, compact it and water it abundantly.

Gooseberry care

Gooseberries require care from early spring until autumn.

Spring care

Shrubs planted in the fall already need care in the first spring. The bush around and inside can be covered with manure or peat, which will serve as both feeding and mulch at the same time. You can also mulch with straw or compost, pine bark, this will reduce the number of weeds and retain moisture.

Using mulch will help reduce the number of weedings and retain moisture under the bushes

The formation of the bush begins in the spring, before the buds open. Damaged, dry branches are removed, and strong ones are shortened by 2-3 buds. Subsequently, the most developed shoots are left, cutting off annual shoots by a third. From 2 to 4 zero shoots are preserved annually, so after 7–8 years the bush will have 25–30 branches of different ages.

The yield of 7–8 year old shoots decreases, so they are cut off annually.

Formative pruning is carried out from the first year of planting

In early spring It is important not to miss the time to prevent pest damage to the plant. Good results treatment of gooseberries with boiling water over bare branches (before buds open), watering should be done from a watering can with a sprayer, in this case the water will cool to a temperature safe for the plant, but will be sufficient to control pests.

Gooseberries are quite drought-resistant; watering in spring may be required only in the second half of May, subject to dry weather.

To control pests in the spring, gooseberries are watered with boiling water from a metal watering can from a distance of 1 m

Summer care

Maintenance in summer comes down to loosening the soil and removing weeds. Weeding should be done 3–4 times during the season, watering as needed. At the end of June - beginning of July, it is recommended to feed young shrubs with slurry (diluted with water 1:8).

After picking the berries, in August, the harvest begins next year, mature bushes at this time require mineral feeding:

35 g of ammonium nitrate or 60 g of ammonium sulfate;
70 g superphosphate;
30 g potassium salt.

Autumn care, preparation for winter

In autumn, it is necessary to dig up the bushes shallowly, about 10 cm, and apply 80–100 g of complex organomineral fertilizer (for example, Autumn) under each one. Think about how to protect gooseberries from frost. It is very good to cover the bushes with snow, this will prevent the roots and branches from freezing and will promote the accumulation of moisture.

Gooseberry propagation

There are many ways to obtain new bushes: by seeds, by dividing the plant and vegetatively (cuttings and layering), but not all of them are simple and effective. The most common ways to obtain seedlings:

horizontal layering - use 1–2 year old shoots, which are laid on the ground and pressed to a depth of 5–7 cm;
arcuate layering - bend the branch and dig it into a 10 cm recess, the end of the shoot is brought out;
lignified cuttings - in September, cuttings up to 15 cm long are prepared, planted and covered with humus;
green cuttings - they are cut from young branches in late June - early July, kept in water for 10 hours and planted in a small greenhouse for rooting.

Photo gallery: methods of propagating gooseberries

Reproduction by horizontal layering makes it possible to obtain a large number of seedlings Propagation by arcuate layering is suitable for amateur gardeners when there is a need to obtain several seedlings Lignified cuttings need to be prepared in September Green cuttings cut from young branches in late June - early July

Protecting gooseberries from pests and diseases

The shrub is often affected by sawfly, moth, aphids, and is susceptible to various diseases. Healthy plant is less affected by diseases and pests, so follow the rules of prevention:

loosening the soil;
weed removal;
pruning old, diseased branches, burning them;
fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers;
preventive treatment, for example, watering with boiling water in early spring.

Compliance with these rules increases the stability of the plant and strengthens them. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to do only with preventive measures. If, after all, the gooseberries are attacked by pests, or you notice wilting of leaves and flowers due to disease, it is necessary to spray with special preparations.

Using chemicals, remember: spraying cannot be carried out during the gooseberry flowering period, and during the period of fruit ripening, strictly adhere to the waiting time between processing and picking the berries, which is recommended by the manufacturer of the drug.

Video: treating berry bushes for diseases

Various ways to grow gooseberries

In addition to the usual bush forming of gooseberries, there are innovative methods that are still rarely used in personal plots.

Features of growing gooseberries on a trellis

Tall varieties are suitable for growing gooseberries on a trellis. Plants are planted more densely than with normal planting - at a distance of 1–1.2 m from each other, between rows - at least 1.5 m. Gooseberry branches should be arranged in the form of a fan and tied to the bottom wire of the trellis, subsequently the shoots are directed vertically.

This method of growing gooseberries has many advantages:

beautiful decorative appearance;
plantings take up little space;
bushes get sick less often because they are not thickened;
good access to the plant for care and harvesting of fruits is provided;
the bushes give a good harvest, the berries are usually larger.

Gooseberries on a trellis save space on your site

Features of growing standard gooseberries

The standard gooseberry is grown in the form of a tree with a trunk approximately 60 cm high; such a plant looks very original and decorative. It is easy to care for - loosen the soil, harvest.

Standard gooseberries look very original

Forming gooseberries on a trunk is a rather complex and painstaking process. The seedlings are grown for several years, then the entire above-ground part is cut off, and only one of the new shoots is left, from which the trunk is formed. Subsequently, all buds are removed except the top 5–6, which will become future branches.

It should be noted that this method is not suitable for regions with frosty winters, since the bush is quite tall, is not covered with snow and is subject to low temperatures.

Video: standard gooseberry

Features of growing gooseberries without thorns

The thorns on gooseberry branches cause certain difficulties for gardeners. The presence of thorns makes it difficult to care for the plant: weeding, pruning and harvesting. But now thornless varieties have been bred, although they are not completely devoid of thorns.

The absence of thorns on gooseberries greatly simplifies the collection of berries.

There is an opinion that the fruits of bushes without thorns are not as tasty and sweet. This is not true, it all depends on the chosen variety. They are also not inferior in winter hardiness and productivity. Caring for thornless gooseberries, pruning, and propagation are similar to the usual types.

Features of growing gooseberries in different regions

Different climatic conditions of the regions dictate to gardeners the conditions for growing gooseberries:

For planting, choose primarily zoned varieties that are adapted to growing in your area.
For northern regions, you should pay attention to frost-resistant varieties.
Cold-resistant varieties with a good root system are also suitable for growing in the north-west and Moscow region; in winter it is necessary to organize snow retention, which will help withstand frost.
In the northern regions, as well as in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East, for the winter it is necessary to hill up the root collar and bend the branches to the ground to protect them from severe frosts.

Following simple rules of agricultural technology will lead to the fact that gooseberries will become one of the favorites in the garden. Its abundant harvests will delight you and your household for many years.

Gooseberry is a species that belongs to the Currant genus of the Gooseberry family. The plant is native to Africa and also grows wild in Southern Europe, the Caucasus, Asia and America.

Did you know?Gooseberries became famous in Europe in the 16th century, and in the 17th they became one of the most popular berries in England. Since that time, breeding work began to improve gooseberry hybrids. It was possible to obtain varieties resistant to powdery mildew.

Gooseberry is a small shrub up to 120 cm, with brown exfoliating bark, which is covered with leafy spines. The leaves are round, slightly elongated with teeth, inexpressive, characteristic of thorny shrubs.

Gooseberries bloom in May with red-green axillary flowers. Gooseberries are spherical and round, up to 12 mm(there are varieties with fruits up to 40 mm), covered with needle-like soft scales. Veins of green, red and white shades clearly stand out on the berries. The fruits ripen in July-August.

Gooseberries are healthy and tasty. They contain organic acids, tannins, metal salts and vitamins. The plant is self-fertile: if you have one bush in your garden, the gooseberry will still bear fruit, attracting pollinating insects.

Did you know?We call gooseberries “northern grapes”.

Everything you need to know about planting gooseberries

When to plant gooseberries

Gooseberries can be planted both in autumn and spring. Most gardeners prefer to plant gooseberries in the autumn, explaining this by the fact that after planting, the gooseberry bushes have time to form strong roots and prepare for winter.

When planting gooseberries, take into account all its characteristics and needs. The roots of “northern grapes” are long, so you should not plant them in lowlands, as they can become infected with fungal diseases.

Gooseberries are best planted on a sunny plain or hill. This area should be protected from cold winds from the north and east. The soil should be neutral or low acidity. Loamy, sandy, sandy loam and clayey soils are suitable for it.

Planting in autumn

Planting gooseberries in the fall requires some preparation. You need, first of all, to clear the area of weeds and debris; Since the bush is thorny, it will be difficult for you to weed it later. Then the already harvested area should be dug up and the weed roots should be removed, the ground should be leveled with a rake, breaking up the lumps.

Many gardeners advise digging a hole up to 50 cm deep and wide 2-3 weeks before planting, so that the soil has time to settle. The top, most fertile layer of soil must be removed and put aside, the same operation should be done with the lower infertile layer of soil. Next, we prepare fertilizers for planting gooseberries: fertile soil mix 10 kg of rotted humus, 50 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. This fertilized soil should last the plant for several years.

Important! If the site has clay soil, then when preparing the soil for gooseberries you need to add a bucket of river sand.

If you are planting several plants, then the distance between them should be at least a meter, between the rows - up to 3 m.

Annual seedlings with roots 25-30 cm long are well suited for planting. The ground part of the plant should consist of several strong branches. Before planting a plant, its roots need to be soaked in a solution of any fertilizer that stimulates growth.

Young bushes of the plant should be planted at an angle so that the root collar is below the soil level; The roots must be well straightened. Fill the soil in parts, compacting each layer with a layer of peat and humus.

Planting in spring

Planting gooseberries in spring is no different from autumn. If you are wondering whether to plant gooseberries in spring or autumn, most gardeners advise doing it in autumn. Gooseberries planted in the autumn will take root better, the shoots will be stronger and stronger than those of bushes planted in the spring.

Did you know?Gooseberries begin to bear fruit only in the third or fourth year, and their fruiting can last up to 15 years.

What should be the landing site?

Gooseberry is a light-loving plant. Therefore, it needs to be planted in sunny places.

It does not like waterlogging (the roots begin to rot) and tolerates drought well. Gooseberries should be planted in places with low groundwater levels, at least 1.5 m from the surface. The plant needs to be planted in a place where you and your family can easily care for it. Pruning the plant should not be a problem for you either.

If you have little space on your site, then the plant can be planted between fruit trees, but at a distance of at least 2 meters. You can also plant along the fence - no less than 1.5 meters.

Gooseberries do not like highly oxidized soils. The acidity of the soil should not exceed 6 Ph; if the level is higher, then you need to add lime to the soil - 200 g per 1 sq. m.

Soil preparation and planting scheme for “northern grapes”

Gooseberries are not picky about soil. In addition to acidic soils, it also does not like very swampy and cold soil. If the plant is grown on clay soil, then it is necessary to carry out frequent loosening, and in sandy, sandy loam soils, apply fertilizers.

After thoroughly cleaning the soil for planting, you need to remember to add fertilizer. Mix fertile soil with manure, humus, compost in a ratio of 4 kg per 1 sq. m plot. If the soil is poor, then you need to increase the amount of organic fertilizers. In such cases, you should additionally add urea (20-30 g), superphosphate (50 g), potassium chloride (15-20 g)

For greater effect, when the soil is poor, add organic fertilizers directly into the landing hole. For sandy soil, lay clay (up to 7 cm) at the bottom of the hole; for clayey soil, river sand.

Rules for caring for gooseberries

How to care for gooseberries in spring

For gooseberries, the growing season begins in early spring. The plant blooms in May, and the fruits begin to ripen at the end of June and until August.

In the spring, before the buds open, mineral fertilizers - potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen - should be added to the soil under the gooseberries. During the period when the buds open, feed the plant with manure or compost (12 kg per bush). At this time, you also need to treat the gooseberries with preparations against various insects.

Against aphids, moths, sawflies use a soap solution with ash– 10 liters of water, 50 g laundry soap and leave 40 g of sifted ash for 24 hours. This solution is sprayed on the plant in the spring, during bud break.

It is generally accepted that for fruit and berry bushes best time pruning - early spring, but spring pruning of gooseberries can be fatal for its future harvest. The plant wakes up earlier than others: the snow has not yet melted, but the gooseberries are already opening their buds. It is better to prune gooseberries in late autumn, when the plant is ready for winter. If you need seedlings, then you need to loosen the soil under the bush, add fertilizer, make small grooves and fill them with water. Then place 2 gooseberry branches in these grooves, carefully pressing them down wet soil and attaching it to the ground with hooks. In the fall you will receive formed seedlings, which need to be divided into parts and planted.

Important!Young gooseberries (two years old) require careful care in early spring; they need frequent feeding and moderate watering.

What to do in summer

In the summer, you need to periodically weed the plant, loosen the soil near the bush (up to 10 cm deep) and water it after each loosening. “Northern grapes” tolerate drought well, but during such periods it draws moisture from its fruits, leaves and shoots, therefore, in order for the plant not to deplete its resources, it is necessary to water it well during drought.

Important! Gooseberries need to be watered at the root, as they can get powdery mildew.

Gooseberries, during the period when they begin to bear fruit, need light portions of organic fertilizers. Mix 1:1 compost, peat or manure with soil and dig the mixture under the “northern grape” bush.

Gooseberry care in autumn

In early autumn, you need to weed the gooseberry bushes from weeds, remove various organic debris that has accumulated over the summer. When the leaves fall, you will also need to remove them near the gooseberries and burn them, since pathogens of various diseases may remain overwintering in them.

Besides, you need to create a soil cushion near the bush, it will protect the plant from pests.

In the fall, you need to treat the plant with fungicides against rust, powdery mildew, and anthracnose.

It is recommended to fertilize the plant while digging the soil. The fertilizing should include phosphorus and potassium fertilizers - 30 g of the drug for each bush. Before the first frost, it is necessary to add humus and peat up to 10 cm thick under the bush.

At the end of autumn, before the first frost, gooseberries need pruning– this will help in the formation of a fruit-bearing bush and remove old and damaged branches. After such pruning, up to 6 strong, evenly spaced shoots should remain on the bush. This is the basis for good harvest next year.

In December, when the first snow falls, you need to throw it under the gooseberries to protect them from the upcoming frosts. If the winter promises to be little snow, then you should cover the plant with agrospan or other similar material.

Gooseberry propagation

There are several ways to propagate gooseberries. Each gardener chooses one that is convenient for him. The most common and popular of them:

Reproduction by layering
Reproduction by arcuate layering
Vertical layering
Lignified cuttings
Green cuttings
Combined cuttings
Perennial branches
Dividing the bush.

Most of these reproduction methods can be combined under one species - cuttings

The basic rule for such propagation of gooseberries is the presence of moist soil for plant rooting.

Harvest and storage

The time to harvest gooseberries depends on the variety. The peak of collection occurs in July-August. Most of the berries ripen almost simultaneously, so the harvest can be harvested immediately.

There are two stages of gooseberry maturity: technical and consumer. With technical maturity, Such fruits are perfect for making jam and compote. They have entered their form and are beginning to acquire the color corresponding to the variety. But the pulp of the berry is still sour.

Consumer maturity- this is when the berry has fully developed, the color of the fruit begins to correspond to the variety, the taste is sweet, with a soft sourness, the skin crunches under the teeth.

On average, you can collect up to 8 kg of berries from one bush.

Storage conditions for gooseberries will depend on their degree of ripeness. If the berries are ripe, then you need to collect the fruits in containers up to 2.5 liters, and they are stored for up to 4 days. Berries with technical ripeness can be stored for up to 10 days in a cool room.

Spring care for gooseberries is not difficult. The peculiarity is that gooseberries differ from other berries by the early start of the growing season. And since the main agrotechnical measures (pruning, preventive spraying) are carried out before the buds open, spring chores need to be completed within a short time frame. We will tell you in the article why caring for gooseberries in the spring is important and what stages it includes.

🎧 Collecting gooseberries and first currants: the secrets of a rich harvest

In an audio interview, expert summer resident Andrei Tumanov says: “How to increase the yield of gooseberries and currants on the site.” For 20 years, the author broadcast on TV a number of programs dedicated to amateur gardening and horticulture - “Hacienda”, “The Bed”, “Our Garden”, “Rural Hour”, “Field Work”.

Basics of spring agricultural technology

Spring care of gooseberries consists of sanitary treatment of bushes, crown formation, fertilizing, and soil cultivation. Some of the listed actions are performed as needed. In the spring, they only complete the rough pruning carried out in the fall. Mature bushes do not require annual fertilization; it is enough to do this once every 2–3 years.

Preventive treatment of the crown is mandatory.

The sequence of work for spring gooseberry care is given in the table:

Agrotechnical event	Target	Deadlines	Way
Boiling water treatment	Destruction of fungal pathogens	Before buds open (late March - early April)	Water the crown and the ground under the bush using a watering can with a fine strainer.
Trimming	Crown formation, disease and pest control	During the dormant period, before the beginning of the growing season (late March - early April)	Cut out dry and weak shoots with pruning shears
Loosening the soil in the root zone	Soil structuring, pest and weed control	In early May	Within the crown they loosen with a rake; outside the perimeter of the bush they dig with a shovel, without touching the roots
Top dressing	Improving soil fertility	April May	1) water the soil within the crown perimeter with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and diluted mullein; 2) incorporate dry mineral fertilizers into the soil
Mulching	Soil structuring, moisture conservation, pest and weed control	Immediately after loosening and fertilizing (May)	Cover the ground under the bush within the crown with mulch: peat, rotted sawdust, dry grass
Fungicide treatment	Disease Prevention	Before and after flowering	Spray the crown and ground with a spray bottle
Watering (if necessary in dry weather)	Maintaining moderate soil moisture	During the flowering period	Water the bushes at the roots

Spring prevention of gooseberry diseases

The first symptoms of gooseberry damage by pests and diseases appear in early spring and at the turn of summer. At this time, you need to carefully monitor the development of the plant. In the last ten days of March or a little later, depending on the weather, gooseberry bushes are irrigated with boiling water.

Hot dousing destroys spores of powdery mildew and other pathogenic fungi. To combat other pests (aphids, sawflies, moths, kidney mite) are taking more radical measures. Before the start of gooseberry flowering and immediately after it, preventive treatment is carried out with one of the following means:

a solution of copper or iron sulfate (300 and 100 g per bucket of water, respectively);
soap-ash infusion (1 kg of ash and 50 g of soap per bucket of water);
soap-soda solution (50 g of soap and baking soda per bucket of water);
infusion of rotted mullein (3 parts water to 1 part cow dung).

At the first symptoms of the disease, gooseberries are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, solutions of karbofos, bromophos, and special insecticidal preparations - Fufanon, Inta-vir, Iskra in accordance with the instructions for use. During flowering, treatment with infusions of shag, mustard, onion peel, tansy, and wood ash is allowed.

Treating gooseberries against powdery mildew in spring

After the snow melts, the ground under the gooseberries is covered with dense material (thick film, roofing felt, linoleum). This is necessary to kill pests overwintering in the soil. After flowering, the shelter is removed.

Tip #1. Before heat treatment, the branches are collected into a bundle and tied to make the bush more compact. Quickly pour boiling water over it in a circular motion, after which the tourniquet is untied.

Sanitary pruning and crown formation

Pruning is carried out annually, otherwise the bushes thicken, which makes pest control difficult. Painful, twisted, weakened branches appear, growing inside the crown. The shoots shade each other, and the formation and ripening of berries requires good solar lighting. As a result, productivity decreases.

The principle of crown formation is this: the denser the planting, the smaller the gap between the rows of the bush, the prickly the variety, the fewer shoots there should be in the bush. Ideally, an adult bush consists of 12–20 fruiting branches. Pruning begins while the plant is in the dormant stage: sap flow has not begun, the buds have not swollen.

Spring pruning of a compact, well-groomed bush will not take much time. Before the sap begins to move along the branches, the ends of the shoots are shortened and the central part of the crown is thinned out. If pruning was not carried out in the fall, remove in the spring:

dry, broken, damaged, frozen branches over the winter;
weak, unproductive, diseased shoots;
branches whose age exceeds 8–9;
excess young growth;
low inclined branches creeping along the ground.

Leave the strongest root shoots at a distance of at least 15–20 cm from each other. To prevent the lower branches from interfering with tillage and to prevent the berries from becoming contaminated by the soil, special supports are built.

Spring feeding of gooseberries

If, when planting gooseberries, the planting hole was filled according to all the rules, then the bushes are not fertilized for the first three years. If the seedlings fall into low-fertility, humus-depleted soil, nitrogen-containing fertilizers, both mineral and organic, are applied in the spring, followed by mulching. This can be diluted mullein (1/3 of a bucket per bush) or ammonium nitrate (30 g per 1 m²).

In order for a young seedling to grow intensively, in the first 2–3 years three spring feedings with organic matter are carried out:

No.	Timing of fertilizing	Top dressing	Dosage
1	Beginning of April, when the buds are breaking	Warm (50°C) infusion of potato peelings and ash: 1 kg of peelings and 100 g of ash per bucket of boiling water	3 liters of infusion for each bush
2	During flowering	Infusion of green grass and manure: 5 kg of green mass and 1 shovel of cow manure for 20 liters of water, leave for 3-4 days	Diluted (1:5) 5 liters per bush, pour under the root and spray the leaves
3	During the formation of ovaries	Infusion of green grass and manure	Diluted (1:5) 5 liters per root

Beginning with fourth year per 1 m² of area occupied by gooseberries add:

urea or ammonium nitrate – 30–40 g;
superphosphate – 50 g;
potassium salt – 20 g;
potassium sulfate – 40 g.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is divided into 2 doses: 60% in early spring, 40% after flowering. Nitrogen is carried out in one step - the sooner the better. At good development The gooseberries are fed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers after a year or two.

Optimal feeding of gooseberries in spring

Spring tillage for gooseberries

Gooseberries are unpretentious in terms of soil composition: they prefer clayey, loamy, sandy, sandy loam soils, but grow poorly in cold, waterlogged and acidified soils. Clay soil they are regularly loosened, and the sandy soil is enriched with organic matter. In May, the soil is cultivated with a hoe within the crown to a depth of 6–8 cm, and dug up between rows with a shovel to a depth of 10–15 cm.

Tip #2. First remove fallen leaves and waste from crown trimming, if this has not been done in the fall.

Loosening is usually combined with fertilizing with potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. The next stage of soil preparation is mulching. A thick layer of mulch muffles weeds and prevents the development of unnecessary root shoots, and protects the soil from drying out. Humus is used as a material for mulching, potato peelings, peat, straw, rotted sawdust, small shavings, crushed tree bark, mown grass.

Opponents of any kind of chemicals in the garden often neglect feeding gooseberries. Meanwhile, depletion of soil under berry crops leads to a decrease in yield. The problem is solved with the help of such natural fertilizers like humus and ash. The process is not expensive or labor-intensive. In addition, such fertilizing guarantees an environmentally friendly harvest.

Humus is obtained from organic gardening waste (tops of garden crops, weeds, sawdust, grass), chicken manure and cow dung. The components are placed in a compost heap for at least 2 years. To obtain wood ash, old leaves, trimmed twigs and branches, and lumber waste are burned.

Rotted organic matter produces an excellent fertilizer - humus.

Operating procedure:

Cutting under a bush with a hoe weeds and lightly loosen the soil.
Spread 1-1.5 cups of sifted wood ash evenly within the circumference of the crown.
Pour 1 bucket of humus over the ash.
Mix the ash with humus, lightly working it into the soil with a hoe.
Continue loosening throughout the season at regular intervals of two to three weeks.

There is no need to water the nutrient mixture. Under the influence of precipitation, microelements and beneficial substances themselves penetrate to the root system of the bush. This is how natural fertilizing works throughout the season. At the same time, the mixture of ash and humus acts as mulch - it fights weeds and retains moisture.

Mistakes when caring for gooseberries

Questions about caring for gooseberries

Question No. 1. How to properly pour boiling water over gooseberries so as not to burn the plant?

Bring the water to a boil, fill a watering can with a fine strainer and immediately irrigate the bushes. Boiling water can't do any harm: for now hot shower reaches the branches, the water will cool to 70 - 75°C. This is enough to kill fungal spores. The main condition is meeting deadlines. The gooseberries are poured over the snow until the buds swell. For a gooseberry bush consisting of 12–15 branches, half a watering can of boiling water is enough.

Question No. 2. The first two years, gooseberries occupy no more than 50% of the allotted area. Is it possible to use the spaces between the bushes by planting vegetables or herbs?

Vegetables and herbs absorb useful elements from the upper soil horizon. Root system gooseberries are located precisely in this layer. That is, catch crops take away from the berry plant the nutrients necessary for full development. This will have a negative impact on productivity in the future.

Question No. 3. Is it worth starting spring pruning if the deadlines are missed?

It is extremely undesirable to prune when the juices have begun to flow and the buds have opened. It is recommended to postpone the formation of the bush until late autumn.

Question No. 4. What threatens gooseberries with a lack of potassium in the soil? Which potash fertilizer to choose?

A lack of potassium causes a physiological disease in gooseberries, the so-called leaf burn. Potassium fertilizers that do not contain chlorine are applied to gooseberries. A complete source of potassium is wood ash, which is simultaneously used to protect against powdery mildew and some pests. In case of severe potassium deficiency in gooseberries, ash is poured into the grooves along the perimeter of the crown at the rate of 5 kg per bush.

Question No. 5. Why did unnaturally enlarged buds of a swollen spherical shape appear on the gooseberries?

Spring has come, which has called impatient summer residents into their gardens and vegetable gardens, saying that the time has come to start spring work, do a lot of things, take care of future harvests. In the spring it is necessary to lay their foundation, that is, to protect the plants from diseases and pests, to fertilize the soil, and therefore to strengthen the immune system and provide each type of plant with proper care for its normal growth and development. Gooseberry - main character our article, in it you will learn how to care for gooseberries in the spring; in a separate video we have included tips experienced gardeners, which will help novice plant growers in spring gooseberry care.

Spring events

We divided all work on caring for gooseberries in the spring into three main stages - spring pruning of gooseberries, fighting diseases and pests and applying fertilizers. We will talk about each step in more detail, devoting a separate section of the article to them.

Trimming

Spring pruning of gooseberries can be done from the end of March, when the snow has not yet completely melted, until the end of April, at which time the buds begin to swell and bloom.

The purpose of pruning is to remove all dried, frozen branches during the winter, deformed or poorly directed branches so that they do not interfere with further care of the gooseberry, as well as thinning the middle of the bush, since gooseberries do not like shading. Another purpose of pruning is to rejuvenate the bush; in this case, old branches capable of bearing fruit are removed, but the berries on them are already small and the yield is significantly lower than on young shoots. These shoots include shoots 4-5 years old. Proper pruning gooseberries are shown in the diagram.

The fruiting period of gooseberries lasts from 5 to 10-12 years (depending on the variety), so spring pruning is necessary almost annually. When pruning gooseberries, we recommend following the following order:

Conduct a thorough inspection of the gooseberry bushes and determine which branches need to be removed.
Wear gloves to protect you from sharp thorns.
Prepare two types of pruners, one regular, the other a lopper with long handles, to make it easier to reach the branches inside the gooseberry bush.
First, remove all dead branches and damaged top growth.
Then, if there are any, remove shoots lying on the ground, twisted, deformed in the form of an arc, growing inside the bush.
Lastly, remove the branches that thicken the middle of the gooseberry bush.

Radical rejuvenation of bushes using pruning is carried out over 2-3 seasons. You should not immediately cut out all the old branches, this will significantly weaken the plant, it will take a long time to recover and will not form young shoots, since it will spend all its energy on healing the wounds from such pruning.

Attention!

Gooseberry branches cut in spring cannot be used in compost heaps; overwintering eggs may remain on them harmful insects or “dormant” pathogens of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. Burn them along with other spring garden waste.

A clear example of pruning gooseberries in the spring is shown in the video clip; after watching it, you will get a practical lesson in carrying out such work.

Treatment

At the dacha, especially at open areas, processing gooseberries is not difficult. In the spring, gardeners treat gooseberry bushes with solutions of pesticides and fungicides that protect the plant from diseases and pests. Proponents of environmentally friendly products use infusions and decoctions prepared independently for spraying gooseberries. folk recipes. According to some statements from experienced people, such means are ineffective, and you have to treat the bushes constantly, almost every week. The advantages of treating plants with folk remedies are that they do not harm either people or environment. Let's not convince adherents natural nature In favor of one method or another, they can choose gooseberry care products at their own discretion.

In the table, we have combined information about chemical and biological products that can be used to treat gooseberries in the spring, indicated what pests or diseases they help get rid of, and how to use them.

Attention!

Solutions of pesticides must be prepared strictly following the concentration indicated on the packaging. Exceeding the concentration may cause chemical burns to the plant.

Our table contains information only about some of the drugs taken as an example; in fact, there are many similar drugs on sale, read the instructions, the names may be different, but their principle of action is identical.

For gardeners who prefer folk remedies, we have prepared several recipes for decoctions and tinctures that are used for spring processing of gooseberries:

From powdery mildew and other types of fungal diseases of gooseberries:

ash infusion: you will need 1 kg of sifted ash (wood) and 10 liters of water. Ash is poured warm water and leave for 5-7 days, then filter and spray the gooseberries in early spring 2-3 times; several treatments can be done during the season;
infusion of mullein: put 1 kg of rotted cow manure in a large container, add water, bringing the volume to 5 liters, leave for 3-5 days, strain, the finished infusion must be additionally diluted with water in the amount of 10 liters, mix, process the gooseberries in the spring and during several times throughout the season;
lactic acid products: sour milk, kefir, whey are diluted with 10 parts of water, filtered, sprayed on the bushes unlimited amount once, these products not only protect the plant from diseases, but also nourish the gooseberry with many useful substances;
onion infusion: peel from onions(200 g) is brewed with boiling water (8-10 liters), kept for 2-3 days, strained, used for spraying gooseberries during the spring-summer season at intervals of 10-14 days.

From aphids, caterpillars, scale insects, spider mite and other gooseberry pests:

mustard solution: in small quantity water (500 ml) dissolve 100 g mustard powder, add water to the solution to 10 liters, stirring vigorously, leave until the sediment sinks to the bottom, filter, treat the plant as necessary, but at least 3 times per season for preventive purposes;
tobacco infusion: chop tobacco leaves (dried - 200 g, fresh - 1 kg), add 10 liters of water, be sure to leave for 2-3 days, filter, spray gooseberry bushes with this solution for 5-7 days (preferably in a row), repeat if necessary processing in 10-14 days;
slaked lime solution: lime powder is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, applied with a brush to woody gooseberry branches in early spring.

We recommend adding laundry or tar soap (50 g) to all aqueous solutions and infusions for better adhesion of the composition to the leaves and branches of the bush, in addition, the product will stay on the plant longer, which means the protection effect will significantly increase in time.

In the attached video, an experienced amateur gardener tells how she cares for her gooseberries in the spring; it will be useful for novice gardeners to familiarize themselves with her tips.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing in the spring and constant fertilizing throughout the growing season are an integral part of the comprehensive care of gooseberries. In spring the main part is added necessary for the plant fertilizers, combining this process with digging and loosening the soil around the bushes. The main substances that gooseberries need for good growth and fruiting:

Organic fertilizers: rotted manure (fresh cannot be applied), compost, ash, sand (to improve soil structure and reduce acidity).
Nitrogen fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, carbamide (urea).
Phosphorus fertilizers: ammophos, granulated superphosphate, nitrophoska, diammonium phosphate.
Potash fertilizers: potassium sulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate.
Combined fertilizers: superphosphate, complex fertilizer with microelements, nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium.

Modern industry fully satisfies the population’s demand for all types of fertilizers; there is no shortage, so you can purchase them at any time, and their shelf life is quite long.

It is much more difficult to obtain organic fertilizers in right time, which is why gardeners prepare organic matter in advance, filling it in compost heaps or placing it in special pits so that the manure can rot without losing its beneficial qualities.

Clear the surface of the ground near the gooseberry from dry fallen leaves 1.5 meters in diameter.
Sprinkle dry mineral fertilizers on this area (check the rates on the packaging).
Dig up the soil and make small grooves 10-15 cm deep around the bush.
Pour organic matter into the grooves to the full depth, and cover these places with the soil that remains after digging the furrows. The mound above the organic matter should be up to 15 cm high; if there is not enough land, take some free land from the garden.
Pour a bucket of water into the “funnel” formed around the gooseberry bush, compacting the poured soil so that the streams of water do not scatter in different directions.
Mulch the entire soil circle with dry straw, tree bark or peat.

The soil fertilized in this way will keep the plant in good condition all spring and summer; during the season, only fertilizing will be required, which can be done no more than 1-2 times a month.

Attention!

Fertilizing can be done by spraying gooseberry bushes with liquid fertilizer solutions (foliar method) or by watering under the bush.

Reproduction

Spring care of gooseberries is not limited to the implementation of the above measures; there is one more nuance in care - this is propagation by layering, which is performed only in the spring. If you only have one gooseberry bush in your garden, try to get new seedlings by rooting young shoots from last year. Spring is perfect for this the right time of the year.

Gooseberry care

Gooseberries are often called our northern grapes for their amber color - sunny color berries and great taste. And not in vain, since it is useful primarily due to folic acid, which improves blood composition, and serotonin, which is known as an excellent antitumor agent. The high content of pectin substances helps remove harmful toxins from the body. The presence of sucrose, fructose, iron and calcium in berries has a beneficial effect on the liver and blood circulation. And even gooseberry juice is a good preventive measure. And legends can be made about its variety of shapes, colors and flavor rainbow. Gooseberries can be colored yellow, green, red and even burgundy.

The choice of varieties is very difficult due to their abundance, although in the practice of gardeners the most often cultivated are: Russian, Kolobok, Kirovsky, Green Bottle, Prune, Date, Pink, Triumphal, Malachite, Kolkhozny, Russian Yellow, Jubilee, etc. Gooseberry represents spiny a shrub with a powerful fibrous rhizome, which, however, does not form root shoots. Fruiting begins already at 3-4 years. The full harvest from a bush is harvested already in the 6th - 7th year of its life, and with good agricultural technology it can reach 3.5 - 5 kg. Gooseberry flower buds are vegetatively generative; they are formed on the growth of the previous year and on fruits, which branch in a number of varieties. The main crop is formed on the branches of the second - fourth orders. The most productive growths from last year and young fruits. Approximately 40% of the harvest is formed on one-year branches, up to a third - on ringlets, 20% - on two-year-old branches, and only 10% is formed on fruits of three years and older.

However, the distribution of the gooseberry yield of different varieties can vary greatly, since in some varieties the fruits die off after two years, and in others - after 4 - 5 years of fruiting. Some adjustments Unfavorable dry weather may also contribute. Or excessively rainy, long summer months and snowless, frosty winters. Under favorable conditions, a small part of them can live up to 6-9 years. One of characteristic features gooseberries - high shoot-restoring ability. Therefore, without thinning, the bushes tend to become very thick and can have up to 60 or more basal branches of different ages. Renewal shoots usually grow very quickly. Their growth continues until late autumn, as a result of which their tips do not always have time to ripen by winter and in middle lane often freeze slightly.

Strong apical growth of the main axis of the basal branches continues for a relatively short time and, depending on the variety, weather conditions and the condition of the bush slows down by 5 - 7 years. This compact bush, however, is quite productive, frost-resistant and unpretentious. Just like currants, gooseberries have long been registered on our plots and annually delight their owners with delicious berries. Gooseberries vary in weight from 5 to 12 grams, and their color ranges from amber to yellow to purple. The palette of its taste is so diverse that it’s time to be surprised.

For planting gooseberries choose sunny open spaces on sandy loam soils. As a rule, up to 3 - 4 bushes of different varieties, sizes and colors of berries are planted in one area. It goes without saying that mostly one- to two-year-old gooseberry seedlings are used for planting gooseberries. Replanting an adult thorny bush is quite problematic, and the survival rate of bushes older than 3-4 years is very low. The planting hole is prepared at a regular size for planting gooseberry bushes. But when preparing its filling, it is necessary to use lighter components so that the soil in the pit is looser and in no case silts up during watering. Components for filling the planting hole: well-rotted manure, turf soil, sand and mineral fertilizers.

Young gooseberry seedlings need to be watered regularly and weeds removed. As many years of practice have shown, gooseberry seedlings take root when planted both in spring and autumn (until the end of September). And even the forced repeated planting of gooseberry seedlings “in the mud” at the height of summer in my practice has never had a negative impact on the quality of the seedling and its survival rate.

The formation and pruning of gooseberry bushes must be treated with more attention than other bushes. The fact is that over time, the gooseberry bush turns into a real prickly hedgehog. And partial pruning of the gooseberry of individual overgrowing branches of the 3rd, etc. orders only leads to its further thickening. Therefore, it is necessary to initially correctly form the gooseberry bush. New sprouts of the bush that appear from the ground must be normalized. Those. leave only 1 - 2 sprouts annually. The rest must be pruned at the root. And starting from the 7th - 8th year, in the fall after harvesting, the old overgrown branches, which have become obsolete, are annually pruned, which are easily identified by their black, usually cracked bark of a branch. This achieves both the effect of rejuvenation and the effect of normalizing the yield of the bush. Due to the fact that gooseberry branches are too flexible and often sag to the ground, it is necessary to install special supports.

Agricultural technology for cultivating gooseberries does not require special knowledge and is accessible even to beginners. Timely application of organic and mineral fertilizers both in the spring and summer, and in the fall, after harvesting, will allow you to collect rich and, most importantly, high-quality harvests. In this case, you must also adhere to the basic rule: in the spring - organic matter plus mineral fertilizers with an increased nitrogen component, in the summer after flowering and in the fall after harvesting - mineral fertilizers with a decrease in the dose of nitrogen and an increase in the potassium component. Gooseberries are very responsive and autumn application ash. All fertilizing must be combined with abundant watering. And although gooseberries tolerate even long-term dry conditions without loss summer periods, timely and abundant watering of gooseberries certainly improves quality and quantity of the crop, provided that gooseberries are cultivated on well-drained soils, without stagnation of groundwater and silting of the bush space. Good results are obtained by sodding the bite area. The sugar content in them increases. The risk of bush disease is reduced. The formation of gooseberry bushes can be either in bush or standard form, although bush forms are more productive and therefore more often used by gardeners.

A fairly large number of gooseberry varieties are sold today by nurseries that are resistant to berry diseases. However, many varieties, especially large-fruited ones in central Russia, are still quite often affected by gray rot spores and other diseases.

From my many years of practice, I came to the only, as it seems to me, correct and not particularly expensive technique. In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, always I pour boiling water over all the bushes from a watering can. For still dormant buds, this operation is absolutely harmless, but most of the pest larvae and rot spores die. And in the first half of June, especially after a sharp cold snap and the onset of prolonged rains, I spray generously with phytosporin three times at weekly intervals. If brown or whitish spots are found on the underside of the leaf or on the fruits, I treat the diseased bushes with Skor. But it’s better not to let it come to that. Prevention is always better than cure.

Many amateur gardeners have their own proven methods. So, one of them said the following. In early spring, immediately after snow, the bushes are hilled up so that pests cannot overcome the mulch layer. Gooseberry bushes are sprayed with a decoction of onion and garlic peels (two handfuls per bucket). Then, after the buds are completely swollen, repeat spraying. And two more times: after flowering and setting berries. And he always has healthy gooseberries. Many amateur gardeners spray gooseberry bushes with soda in the spring. soap solution. And in the fall they cover the bushes with tomato and potato tops. These methods of combating gooseberry diseases also have a strong right to use.

Gooseberry propagation is carried out mainly by cutting layering. There are methods: horizontal layering, arcuate layering, vertical layers and linear (combined) layering. These are the simplest and most effective methods gooseberry propagation. Gooseberries are also propagated by green cuttings. Here, young semi-lignified annual growths are cut to a length of up to 30 cm. Lower leaves remove, leaving only 2 - 3 top sheets. After treating them with a solution of heteroauxin, plant cuttings - gooseberry seedlings under a film, where it is desirable to create a water mist. By mid-autumn, young gooseberry seedlings are ready to be transplanted to permanent place or for growing up to school. You can propagate gooseberries and lignified cuttings, but their survival rate is low. It is better to plant young gooseberry seedlings in a permanent place in the fall.

Currants and gooseberries, which are closely related morphologically, have common diseases and common pests. First of all, these are aphids, moths and sucking mites. Aphids, in favorable conditions, can cause significant damage not only to the bush, but also to the future harvest. Its appearance is easy to notice. Even from a distance, the curling of leaves and tips of young growths is noticeable. Sometimes all the ends of branches are literally “blackened out” by colonies of aphids. Currant and gooseberry moths, if you miss the moment of their appearance, can completely destroy the entire crop of the current year and significantly weaken the bushes. The moth is the most dangerous and, unfortunately, the most common pest of currants and gooseberries. In early spring, before flowering, moth butterflies lay eggs inside flowers. Adult caterpillars, having destroyed the berries, return to the soil, where, turning into pupae, they overwinter. Berries damaged by these caterpillars turn red long before the established ripening period, then rot and dry out. The crop may be completely destroyed. The leaves of red and white currants are very often damaged by sawfly larvae. Sometimes only veins remain from the leaves.

Gooseberry pest control comes down primarily to acquiring healthy planting material and treating the bushes with a 10% solution of karbofos, a solution of laundry soap, a 20% solution of keltan, a 10% solution of isophene and colloidal sulfur. An effective remedy In the spring, cover the entire bite area with roofing paper, glassine and polyethylene film. Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to pour copious amounts of boiling water over the bushes. The most dangerous diseases of currants and gooseberries are powdery mildew, rust and anthracnose. There are many ways to fight here. But I would like to highlight two main ones. The first (chemical): spraying the bushes with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, a solution of soda ash, mullein infusion and colloidal sulfur. Second (natural): spraying gooseberry bushes with infusions and decoctions of plants that have insecticidal properties.

A solution of chopped (300 g) garlic per 10 liters of water (fresh solution);

Infusion of 200 g of onion peel per 10 liters of water (infuse for 5 days);

Infusion of 1.5 kg of green potato tops per 10 liters of water (infuse for 3 - 4 hours);

Infusion of 500 g of tobacco, shag, tobacco dust per 10 l hot water(infuse for 2 days);

Boil 4 kg of tomatoes in 10 liters of water for 0.5 hours, dilute 1:3 cold water and add 40 g of laundry soap, etc.