Monolithic belt on brickwork dwg. Construction of an interfloor reinforced belt. The unloading belt is not laid

Considering the fact that the price for the services of hired specialists is often equal to the cost of purchasing building materials, those who want to build a house, garage or shed on their site are tempted to carry out masonry work with their own hands. How can you do this if you have neither theoretical knowledge nor experience? The search for the necessary information is usually carried out on the Internet, using queries like: “SNiP brick masonry of walls and partitions.”

Note that there is no single document regulating masonry work with this name. There are standards according to which the design of stone structures is carried out, which will be difficult to understand for an ignorant person. And there are technological maps (each type of wall has its own), which are a guide for masons. For the convenience of the reader, we will summarize and compact the information contained in them, and accompany it with a video in this article for clarity.

A lot of attention is paid to the issues of organizing and ensuring the safety of work, SNiP for laying brick walls, since labor productivity, construction time, and the final result depend on them.

Ease of use is important

First of all, the mason must be able to comfortably move within his plot and work without unnecessary movements. Professional teams are usually divided into units, each of which consists of 2-3 masons with various qualifications. Which one exactly depends on the thickness of the masonry and its architectural complexity.

The plot is divided into three zones, which is clearly visible in the photo below:

1. Working- this is a strip along a section of the wall, up to 70 cm wide, where masons work;
2. Material storage area- a longitudinal strip up to one and a half meters wide, on which ordinary brick and mortar are placed. To perform masonry with simultaneous cladding, this zone must be twice as wide, since space is also required for the facing brick.
3. Auxiliary area– the passage area takes up a little more than 0.5 m.

When there are openings in the wall, a container with mortar is placed opposite them, and it is more convenient to place a pallet with bricks on the line of the wall. If lightweight wall masonry is carried out, then the main materials are alternated with reinforcement and loose filler, or other heat-insulating material.

Solution

All materials must be prepared in advance, and only the solution is supplied immediately before the start of masonry. When building a small private house, it is much more convenient to mix it on site using factory-made masonry mixtures, which many manufacturers call “sand concrete.”

These are universal dry mixtures M150, which are suitable not only for laying bricks, but also for pouring floors. Compositions of a higher grade are used for pouring foundations, armored belts, and monolithic lintels. A package like the one in the photo below costs about 160 rubles. Colored mortars are usually used for laying decorative bricks.

Factory dry masonry mixture

• If you find that buying ready-made mixtures is too expensive, nothing prevents you from installing a concrete mixer and making the solution yourself. When brick walls are erected, SNiP provides for the use of simple and complex masonry mortars.
• Simple solutions contain only one binder; complex solutions contain at least two. In the first case, it is a cement or lime mortar, the second option: lime-cement or clay-cement. Lime and cement play the role of a modifying additive and make it possible to obtain a solution with higher plasticity.
• The most popular is cement mortar with a lime additive, as it is suitable for all types of bricks, except for raw clay stone (adobe). It just needs a clay-cement mortar, which is also suitable for the construction of any outbuilding.

Instructions for the proportions of binders and fillers in solutions are presented in the table above. The first in the line is cement, then the second binder, and then sand. Water is added until the required consistency is achieved, but usually its amount does not exceed 30% of the total mass. Sand can be used heavy (quartz) and light (pumice, slag).

Tools and accessories

The amount of equipment used in the work also depends on the volume of work and the complexity of the task being performed. When building a one-story house, you may not need some tools, but the basic set of tools should be the same as you see in the table below.

tool	Purpose
	There are many types of trowels, but for mason work, this triangular version is ideal. This shape allows you to select the solution in the corners, for which the nose of the tool is smoothly rounded. Its handle has a flat, sometimes even metal heel, to make it convenient to tap the brick. The blade of the trowel should be made of stainless steel, and its edges should be sharpened, which makes it possible to trim the brick. On average, the length of the shoulder blade is 16 cm and the width is 11 cm.
	This tool has a striker on one side, and a flat extension on the other, which is called a pick. It is pointed, which allows you to divide the brick into halves, or quarters and three-fours. It is also convenient to use if you need to remove old plaster.
	Along with a tape measure, a meter may also be needed in the work of a mason. In some situations, it turns out to be more convenient to use, since a second person is not required to measure a distance exceeding the length of an outstretched arm.
	Using a hydraulic level, the exact marks of the floor and ceiling are determined.
	This device allows you to control the horizontal position of structures and rows of masonry. If plastering work is to be done, it is better to immediately purchase a rule with a built-in level.
	A tool for monitoring deviations of the wall plane from the vertical.
	Control of corners of adjacent structures.
	Container with mounting loops for supplying the solution to the floor with a crane.
	Device for working at height.
	A stretched cord is used to control the horizontality of the rows.
	These are wooden or aluminum slats with divisions applied every 77 mm. This distance corresponds to the height of a single brick, plus seams. The ordering ensures the uniformity of their thickness.

Masonry work

The work operations performed during the masonry process are of unequal complexity. Accordingly, they are performed by masons of various qualifications. Depending on the task at hand, the composition of the units is determined.

• Masons with a higher rank are engaged in installing lines and moorings, laying beacons, and performing face masonry (outer verst).
• Low-skilled workers are engaged in laying out bricks, laying out a mortar bed, laying backfill rows, and filling voids in the well masonry.
• The specific number of masons in the units, and the division of responsibilities according to their category, depends on the thickness of the wall and its design features.
• For example: to lay a wall of 2 bricks, five masons are required: one V or VI category, one IV category, and the rest not lower than III category.

So, we can’t talk about independent work here. The partition is another matter - if there is an efficient assistant, the owner can easily erect it himself. However, he still must have an idea of ​​the work performed by hired workers.

Features of lightweight walls

The main advantage of houses built of brick is their durability. Therefore, when a person wants to build, as they say, to last, he gives preference to this particular material. Moreover, in a low-rise building, even walls just one solid brick thick can withstand loads from reinforced concrete slabs.

• Reliability of structures in in this case, depends only on the correctness of their installation and the quality of the masonry.
• The only disadvantages of brick walls include their solid weight and low thermal performance. However, both of these disadvantages are eliminated through the use of lightweight masonry technologies.
• This includes the use of hollow (slotted) bricks, and the construction of wells in the walls, filled with lightweight concrete liners, liquid cellular concrete, foam or bulk insulation.
• These technologies can not only reduce the load on the foundation and make the walls warm, but also significantly reduce the cost of construction.

Single brick wall with cladding and mineral wool insulation

To reduce the thermal conductivity of brick walls, masonry can be done using warm mortars prepared not with quartz, but with perlite or pumice sand. In this case, masonry technology with widened seams is often used, which makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the walls as a whole.

In the process of such masonry, the thickness of the longitudinal-vertical joints increases significantly, and due to this, the brick is not laid flat, but on the edge. Let us only note that this version of lightweight walls is not suitable for independent work. It is carried out only according to the project, in which the required thickness of the seams is assigned.

• Masonry with layers of heat-insulating materials is always carried out with a gap corresponding to the thickness of the liner. His place is between the front milepost and the back row.
• In this design, the slab insulation must be provided with a tight connection to the masonry, for which it is first placed on glue and then fixed with dowels with a disk head.
• By the way: today on sale there are not just dowels, but basalt-plastic anchors, which allow you to simultaneously connect the walls to each other while attaching the insulation.
• One end of the anchor is mounted through the slab into the main masonry, and the second end, after installing the disk washer, is embedded in the seams of the outer wall.

Note! If the insulation is mineral, a gap of 3-4 mm is provided between it and the cladding, and in the bottom row of the wall itself the vertical seams are left unfilled. This ensures the drainage of condensate and protects the mineral wool from rotting. Polymer boards are not afraid of moisture, which means they do not need ventilation.

If the wells are filled with concrete or foam, then usually in every fifth row there are outlets of bonded rows, which should act as anchors. When using bulk materials, the walls are connected with strips of fine-mesh steel mesh, which not only provides rigid fixation of the walls, but also does not allow the insulation to settle and bunch up below, leaving voids on top.

Constructive nuances of masonry

For the construction of external walls low-rise buildings, almost all types of bricks that are offered by manufacturers today are suitable. In addition to clay bricks: both solid and slotted, these are also hyper-pressed and silicate stones.

The limitations of the last two options apply only to the foundation and basement parts of buildings, as well as premises operated in conditions of high humidity.

• According to SNiP: brickwork of external walls, their thickness cannot be less than 250 mm - that is, the length of one brick. The minimum cross-section of pillars (columns) is 380*380 mm.
• As for the partitions (see), when laying bricks flat, they will have a thickness of 120 mm. If the length of such a partition does not exceed 3 m, then the masonry may not be reinforced.
• But there is also a technology for constructing 65 mm thick brick partitions, in which the brick is laid on its edge. In this case, every third row of masonry must be reinforced with steel wire.
• You should try to do the laying of the outer verst using the highest quality bricks, leaving those that have cracks and chipped edges for backfill. If the walls are not supposed to be plastered, then it is better not to sort ordinary bricks, but to immediately buy facing bricks.

Lighthouses

The thickness of regular (not widened) seams can be 8-15 mm. As a rule, a thickness of more than 10 mm is made in the case when reinforcement is laid in the seam or the ends of the anchors are monolid.

The laying is carried out along a well-leveled foundation surface, and starts from the corners. On them, as well as in the areas where the openings are located, lighthouse fines tapering upward (safety) up to 6 or 8 rows high are first made.

Note! It is still possible to do without lighthouses when the building is small and a large team is working on the construction of its walls. Otherwise, masons have to take breaks, and mortars make it possible to firmly connect fresh masonry with previously completed masonry.

When the beacons are erected, a cord is pulled between them from the outside. Then they begin laying the outer verst, which is level with the top bricks. If the wall thickness is one brick, then the inner mile is made, which, like the outer one, will be a spoon.

After 6 rows, two spoon versts are tied with a butt row. According to this principle, dressing is carried out according to a multi-row pattern. But there may be other options - for example: when artistic masonry of walls is performed.

Jumpers

The installation of lintels over the openings of windows and doors is of no small importance. In houses with beamed floors that do not have as much weight as concrete slabs, they can be lined with brick. In cases where concrete floors rest on the walls, either prefabricated concrete lintels are installed, or a monolithic reinforced belt is poured over the opening (see).

• Since all lintels are structurally different, they rest on the masonry differently. In both private and large-scale construction, prefabricated concrete lintels are in high esteem.
• Slab-type lintels, that is, having a width greater than the height and immediately covering the entire opening along the thickness of the wall, require support heels of minimal depth - 10-12 cm is enough.
• For timber lintels, which, having a height greater than width, are not so stable, require 25 cm at each end. Jumpers made of steel channels or angles are also embedded into the masonry at the same distance.

However, where the masonry does not bear any loads other than its own weight - for example: in brick cladding, or in the fillings of frame-brick houses, there is no point in installing concrete lintels. It is much more convenient, and cheaper, to use rolled metal for this purpose. Its advantage is its light weight and the ability to cut to any length.

Brick lintels are installed only on openings less than two meters wide. Although, today there is a technology with hinged consoles that reinforce the masonry above the opening, and make it possible to make brick lintels over openings of any width.

If the lintels are to play the role of architectural decoration of the facade, then they should be made only of brick. In any case, triangular and arched openings cannot be blocked in any other way.

No “SNiP brick walls” will help cope with this task. Technological map (TC) No. 95-04 for laying vaults and arches of brick will serve as an excellent tool. But still best helper– this is a video, and after watching several professional videos, it is quite possible to master the independent implementation of this element of masonry.

The fundamental document for most construction work is SNiP for brickwork of walls. This set of standards and rules includes the maximum full list requirements both for materials and tools used in the construction of walls, and for the specifics of performing individual operations.

Key sections of SNIPs are based on current regulatory documents, and therefore they must be complied with without fail.

Normative base

Strictly speaking, there is no single SNiP “Brickwork of walls”, since masonry work requires compliance with a huge number of norms and rules related to various aspects construction industry.

That is why, when discussing construction standards relating to the construction of external and internal self-supporting walls, interior partitions and cladding, experts turn to a whole range of documents:

• Organization of construction. Organization of production in construction and architecture - SNiP 12 - 01 - 2004.
• Load-bearing and enclosing capital structures - SNiP 3.03.01 - 1987.
• Occupational safety and health in construction and production – SNiP 12 – 04 – 2992 (Section IX), as well as SNiP 12 – 03 – 2001 (Part 1).

These standards contain information regulating the entire process of construction of walls and other architectural elements made of brick or building stone. GOST for brickwork is mandatory for all permanent buildings without exception, so you need to study the requirements even if you plan to build a small shed on your site with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

Preliminary work

Laying building blocks in accordance with building regulations can only be carried out on specially prepared sites. Masonry begins either after the construction of the foundation (single-story construction or construction of the first floor), or after completion of major work on the previous floors.

In preparation:

• All work on the construction of the foundation or plinth is completed, interfloor ceilings are installed, stairs and elevator shaft blocks are installed.
• Geodetic survey and site marking are carried out.
• The compliance of the constructed elements with the plan or the results of topographic survey is monitored.
• Delivery of building materials and mortar is organized directly to the place of work.

Note!
The material can either be stored directly on the floor within walking distance of the working areas, or the delivery of bricks in pallets using a crane can be arranged for each area separately.

• The sites are provided with everything necessary to carry out work with proper labor productivity. The list of material support includes scaffolding with adjustable platform heights, tools, equipment and personal protective equipment.
• Subject to compliance with SNiP, the laying of brick walls must be carried out by specialists with certain qualifications and who have undergone appropriate instruction. The training includes familiarization with general plan work, monitoring the assimilation of information on the technique of performing work operations, as well as familiarization and testing of knowledge on safety precautions and labor protection.

Mason's equipment

SNiP for bricklaying provides for the provision of each work crew devices and devices necessary to perform work at the proper technical level.

The list of tools includes:

• Mortar shovels.
• Trowels (trowels) for collecting and distributing mortar throughout the masonry.
• A duralumin rule for leveling the mortar and controlling the plane of the masonry.
• Hammer picks for splitting building blocks.
• Joints for finishing seams.
• Mop to clean cavities from solution.

Note!
When working with a hammer-pick, it must be replaced with a circular saw or an angle grinder with a blade that matches the cladding material.

• Stainless steel brackets and beacons.
• Mooring lines. You can use a cord on a reel, but it is more rational to use models in cases with a handle for winding.

All tools must comply with GOST requirements. The use of faulty tools or improvised materials is not permitted.

Material requirements

An important stage in the preparation is to provide construction crews with materials that meet the technical specifications and GOST standards for this type of work. For this purpose, the site organizes acceptance and quality control of incoming building materials.

The main materials used for the construction of walls and partitions are brick and building stone. As a rule, materials are delivered in batches on special pallets.

When a pallet arrives, its packaging is opened and the following controls are carried out:

• Documentary– checking the compliance of the accompanying information about the batch with the data specified in the incoming documents.
• Instrumental- checking the dimensions of the supplied building blocks.
• Visual– monitoring the compliance of the actual material supplied with the information specified in the invoices, as well as assessing the quality of the brick and identifying the most pronounced deficiencies.

Note!
It is strictly prohibited to use bricks and building stones for the construction of self-supporting structures and partitions, for which accompanying documents have not been provided.

As for the visual inspection, during its course the receiving specialist assesses the presence of the following defects:

• Chips on the edges and faces of building blocks.
• Damage to the front planes (fly and butt edges) of facing bricks.
• Changes in the shape of the block, the presence of depressions, cracks and swellings.
• Delaminations of ceramic material, which may indicate the so-called “underburning” - insufficiently high-quality temperature treatment.

• Salt stains on brick surfaces.

The amount of so-called polovnyak is determined separately - broken bricks or blocks that have cracks measuring more than 30% of the total length of the stone. The amount of polovnika in a batch depends on the quality of the material, but the requirements for brickwork According to SNiP, its share is limited to 5% of the total number of blocks.

The quality of the solution is assessed separately:

• Mobility – 7 cm or more.
• The brand of solution must correspond to the design one.
• When carrying out work in winter, a plasticizer (soaped lye) must be added to the solution for more active air entrainment. The proportion of liquor should be no more than 858 g per 1 kilogram of dry cement.
• Also, when masonry is carried out at air temperatures below -15 0 C, the grade of the mortar is increased by one grade to ensure the required quality of the connection.

Requirements for structures

Construction of main elements

According to SNiP 3.03.01 - 1987, the instructions for the construction of main self-supporting walls (both internal and external) contain the following recommendations:

• The mortar for laying bricks and building stones is selected depending on the type of material and operating conditions of the structure. The solution is supplied either automatically or in molds using a truck crane.
• The basement elements of the building are erected from concrete slabs or using. The use of silicate blocks, as well as hollow stones, leads to a decrease in the mechanical strength of the building and is therefore not allowed.

• According to GOST requirements, brickwork should not contain holes, niches and cavities that are not provided for by the design and that reduce the mechanical strength of the wall.
• Masonry is done manually, the elements are arranged according to the type of dressing approved in the project. To connect individual blocks, in addition to mortar, reinforcing parts (rods, mesh), as well as metal embedded parts, can be used.

Note!
When a forced rupture is formed, the masonry is located in the form of a straight or inclined groove.
The appearance and design of the fines are shown in the diagrams in this article.

• The seams between bricks of the correct shape must have a constant thickness: vertical - 10 mm, horizontal - 12 mm. The thickness of the horizontal seam increases if reinforcing material is placed in the seam.

SNiP for masonry configuration

In addition to general requirements, the standards also contain information on the procedure for forming the masonry itself:

• Bonded rows (i.e. rows in which the bonded edge of the brick appears on the front surface of the masonry) must be laid from whole blocks.

• Regardless of the type of dressing and masonry pattern, a bonded row is formed in the lower and upper parts of the structure, at the level of cornices, window sills, edges, etc.
• It is also mandatory to lay a butt row under the supports of rafters, beams, roofing mauerlats, etc.

Note!
The support of these elements on spoon rows is allowed only if during construction and masonry a single-row chain ligation is used with alternating spoon and butt edges in one row.

• Pillars and piers must be built from whole bricks, the width of which does not exceed two and a half blocks.
• Polovnyak is used for laying walls of lightly loaded structures, as well as for backfill masonry. But even in this case, the share of polovnyak should not exceed 10% of the total volume of material used.
• Reinforcement of lintels over window and door openings, as well as over other technological openings, is carried out using formwork. The lintels are laid in mortar under the bottom row of brickwork and embedded in the pier to a depth of 250 mm or more.
• The holding time of the formwork for installing the lintel depends on the air temperature and ranges from 5 days (+20 0 C and above) to 24 days (+5 0 C and below).
• When laying cornices, the overhang of each row should not exceed 1/3 of the length of the building block. The total extension of the cornice, not reinforced with additional metal elements, should not be more than half the thickness of the outer wall.

Advice!
Laying the cornice is necessarily accompanied by the installation of temporary supporting structures.
They must be strong enough to support the cornice blocks until the mortar completely hardens and prevent it from deforming.

Reinforcing masonry with metal reinforcement

Reinforcement of masonry with metal rods or mesh is used when constructing partitions of small thickness, or when laying walls made of energy-efficient hollow bricks. The use of steel mortgages increases the performance characteristics of the structure, but the overall price of the object increases, and significantly.

The requirements put forward by SNiP for reinforced masonry are as follows:

• The thickness of the seam is calculated as follows: a minimum of 4 mm must be added to the sum of the diameters of the intersecting reinforcement. Thus, when reinforced with a mesh of 5 mm bar, the minimum seam thickness should be 5+5+4 = 14 mm.

Note!
The maximum permissible seam thickness is 16 mm.

• Reinforcement of a longitudinal seam involves connecting reinforcing bars by welding.
• If a metal mesh is used, or the rods are connected mechanically, then the overlap should be at least 20 times the diameter of the metal element.

Quality and safety of work

Quality control

The final stage of any work is quality control of the erected masonry.

This procedure includes:

• Acceptance of work that preceded the execution of masonry (preparation of the base, installation of partitions, foundations, etc.).
• Visual and instrumental assessment of materials used for work, as well as periodic inspection of tools and work equipment.
• Operational control, which consists in monitoring the progress of masonry and identifying inconsistencies with the work order approved in technological map.

The basis for acceptance control is the legally approved tolerances for brickwork according to SNiP, which require the following deviations:

• No more than 15 mm - according to the thickness of the wall being built.
• No more than 15 mm - along the width of the wall.
• 20 mm – permissible displacement of the axes of adjacent window openings.
• 10 mm is the permissible deviation of metal or reinforced concrete embedded structures.
• Vertical deviation is 10 mm or less within one floor.
• Deviation along the plane is no more than 10 mm (5 mm for plastered walls) when applying a two-meter test strip.

Only after checking these parameters is the work accepted, about which a corresponding entry is made in the acceptance certificate.

Occupational Health and Safety

When carrying out construction work, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements for the safe organization of the masonry process:

Only special scaffolding should be used

• The delivery of the material must be carried out by specialists who have been trained and qualified as slingers. Coordination of the work of the slinger and the crane operator is carried out using radiotelephone communication.
• All openings intended for the installation of translucent structures should be covered with wooden panels until glazing.
• Scaffolding for masonry must be made of either metal profile, or from wooden beams. It is strictly prohibited to use boxes, pallets, furniture or other improvised means as scaffolding.
• Each worker must be provided with special clothing and footwear, as well as personal protective equipment. The mandatory list of equipment includes a helmet and a mounting belt. The use of safety glasses and a respirator is necessary when performing certain types of work.
• High-altitude work are carried out only if there is a correctly worn and secured mounting belt.

Construction waste generated on the site is regularly collected in containers for subsequent disposal.

Conclusion

Compliance with building codes and regulations when constructing walls made of brick or stone is a prerequisite for achieving an acceptable result. Only brickwork of external walls and internal partitions made in accordance with the requirements of SNiP will be sufficiently strong and reliable. Also, do not forget about another aspect, because by adhering to the methods of performing work operations established in the standards, master masons increase the level of their own safety. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

GENERAL PROVISIONS

7.1. The requirements of this section apply to the production and acceptance of work on the construction of stone structures made of ceramic and silicate bricks, ceramic, concrete, silicate and natural stones and blocks.7.2. Work on the construction of stone structures must be carried out in accordance with the project. The selection of the composition of the masonry mortar, taking into account the operating conditions of buildings and structures, should be carried out using reference Appendix 15.7.3. The laying of brick plinths of buildings must be made from solid ceramic bricks. The use of sand-lime brick for these purposes is not allowed. 7.4. It is not allowed to weaken stone structures through holes, grooves, niches, or installation openings not provided for in the design.7.5. Masonry filling of frames should be carried out in accordance with the requirements for the construction of load-bearing masonry structures.7.6. The thickness of horizontal joints in masonry made of bricks and stones of regular shape should be 12 mm, vertical joints - 10 mm.7.7. In case of forced breaks, the masonry must be done in the form of an inclined or vertical cut.7.8. When breaking masonry with a vertical groove, a mesh (reinforcement) of longitudinal rods with a diameter of no more than 6 mm, of transverse rods - no more than 3 mm with a distance of up to 1.5 m along the height of the masonry, as well as at the level of each floor, should be laid in the joints of the masonry grooves. .The number of longitudinal reinforcement rods is taken at the rate of one rod for every 12 cm of wall thickness, but not less than two for a wall thickness of 12 cm. 7.9. The difference in heights of the masonry being erected on adjacent sections and when laying junctions of external and internal walls should not exceed the height of the floor, the difference in heights between adjacent areas of foundation laying should not exceed 1.2 m.7.10. The installation of fastenings in places where reinforced concrete structures adjoin the masonry should be carried out in accordance with the design. The construction of stone structures of the next floor is allowed only after laying the load-bearing structures of the floors of the constructed floor, anchoring the walls and grouting the seams between the floor slabs.7.11. The maximum height for the construction of free-standing stone walls (without laying floors or coverings) should not exceed the values ​​​​specified in Table. 28. If it is necessary to construct free-standing walls of greater height, temporary fastenings should be used.

Table 28

Wall thickness, cm	Volumetric mass (density) of masonry, kg/m 3	Permissible wall height, m, at wind speed, N/m 2 (wind speed, m/s)
	From 1000 to 1300
	From 1300 to 1600
	From 1000 to 1300
	From 1300 to 1600
	From 1000 to 1300
	From 1300 to 1600
	From 1000 to 1300
	From 1300 to 1600

Note. At wind speeds having intermediate values, the permissible heights of free-standing walls are determined by interpolation.7.12. When erecting a wall (partition) connected to transverse walls (partitions) or other rigid structures with a distance between these structures not exceeding 3.5 N(Where N- wall height indicated in table. 28), the permissible height of the wall being erected can be increased by 15%, with a distance of no more than 2.5 N- by 25% and no more than 1.5 N- by 40%.7.13. The height of unreinforced stone partitions, not supported by ceilings or temporary fastenings, should not exceed 1.5 m for partitions 9 cm thick, made of stones and bricks with an edge thickness of 88 mm, and 1.8 m for partitions 12 cm thick, made of brick.7.14. When connecting the partition with transverse walls or partitions, as well as with other rigid structures, their permissible heights are accepted in accordance with the instructions of clause 7.12.7.15. The verticality of the edges and corners of masonry made of bricks and stones, the horizontality of its rows must be checked as the masonry progresses (every 0.5-0.6 m) with the elimination of detected deviations within the tier.7.16. After finishing the laying of each floor, an instrumental check of the horizontality and marks of the top of the masonry should be carried out, regardless of intermediate checks of the horizontalness of its rows.

MASONRY OF CERAMIC AND SILICATE BRICK, OF CERAMIC, CONCRETE, SILICATE AND NATURAL STONES OF REGULAR SHAPE

7.17. The bonded rows in the masonry must be laid from whole bricks and stones of all types. Regardless of the adopted system for dressing seams, laying bonded rows is mandatory in the lower (first) and upper (last) rows of erected structures, at the level of edges of walls and pillars, in protruding rows of masonry (cornices, belts, etc.). For multi-row ligating seams, laying bonded rows under the supporting parts of beams, purlins, floor slabs, balconies, under mauerlats and other prefabricated structures is mandatory. With single-row (chain) ligation of seams, it is allowed to support prefabricated structures on spoon rows of masonry.7.18. Brick pillars, pilasters and piers two and a half bricks wide or less, ordinary brick lintels and cornices should be built from selected whole bricks.7.19. The use of half-brick is allowed only in the laying of backfill rows and lightly loaded stone structures (sections of walls under windows, etc.) in an amount of no more than 10%. 7.20. Horizontal and transverse vertical seams of brickwork walls, as well as seams (horizontal, transverse and longitudinal vertical) in lintels, piers and pillars should be filled with mortar, with the exception of hollow masonry.7.21. When laying a hollow core, the depth of joints not filled with mortar on the front side should not exceed 15 mm in walls and 10 mm (only vertical joints) in columns.7.22. Sections of walls between ordinary brick lintels with piers less than 1 m wide must be laid out on the same mortar as the lintels.7.23. Steel reinforcement ordinary brick lintels should be laid on formwork in a layer of mortar under the bottom row of bricks. The number of rods is established by the project, but must be at least three. Smooth rods for reinforcing lintels must have a diameter of at least 6 mm, end with hooks and be embedded in the piers at least 25 cm. Periodic profile rods are not bent with hooks.7.24. When maintaining brick lintels in the formwork, it is necessary to comply with the deadlines indicated in the table. 29.

Table 29

Jumper designs	Outdoor air temperature, °C, during the period of holding the jumpers	Brand of solution	Duration of holding the lintels on the formwork, days, not less
Ordinary and reinforced brick		M25 and above
Arched and wedge

7.25. Wedge lintels made of ordinary bricks should be laid with wedge-shaped joints with a thickness of at least 5 mm at the bottom and no more than 25 mm at the top. Laying must be done simultaneously on both sides in the direction from the heels to the middle.7.26. The laying of cornices should be carried out in accordance with the project. In this case, the overhang of each row of brickwork in the cornices should not exceed 1/3 of the length of the brick, and the total offset of the brick unreinforced cornice should be no more than half the thickness of the wall. The laying of anchored cornices can be carried out after the masonry wall has reached the design strength into which the anchors are embedded. When When installing cornices after finishing the masonry of the wall, their stability must be ensured with temporary fastenings. All embedded reinforced concrete prefabricated elements (cornices, corbels, balconies, etc.) must be provided with temporary fastenings until they are pinched by the overlying masonry. The time period for removing temporary fastenings must be indicated in the working drawings.7.27. When constructing walls made of ceramic stones in overhanging rows of cornices, corbels, parapets, firewalls, where brick cutting is required, solid or special (profile) facing brick with frost resistance of at least Mr325 with protection from moisture must be used.7.28. Ventilation ducts in the walls should be made of ceramic solid brick of a grade not lower than 75 or silicate brick of grade 100 to the level attic floor, and above - from solid ceramic bricks of grade 100.7.29. When reinforced masonry, the following requirements must be observed: the thickness of the seams in reinforced masonry must exceed the sum of the diameters of the intersecting reinforcement by at least 4 mm with a seam thickness of no more than 16 mm; when transversely reinforcing pillars and partitions, meshes should be made and laid so that there is at least two reinforcing bars (from which the mesh is made), protruding 2-3 mm on inner surface pier or on two sides of a column; when longitudinally reinforcing masonry, steel reinforcement rods along the length should be connected to each other by welding; when installing reinforcement joints without welding, the ends of smooth rods should end with hooks and tied with wire with an overlap of rods of 20 diameters. 7.30. The construction of walls made of lightweight brickwork must be carried out in accordance with the working drawings and the following requirements: all seams of the outer and inner layers of lightweight masonry walls should be carefully filled with mortar, grouting the façade seams and grouting the internal joints, with the obligatory wet plastering of the wall surface on the room side; slab insulation should be laid to ensure a tight fit to the masonry; metal connections installed in the masonry must be protected from corrosion; backfill insulation or lightweight infill concrete should be laid in layers with compaction of each layer as the masonry is erected. In masonry with vertical transverse brick diaphragms, voids should be filled with backfill or lightweight concrete in layers to a height of no more than 1.2 m per shift; window sill sections of external walls must be protected from moisture by installing drips according to the design; during the production process during the period of precipitation atmospheric precipitation and during a break in work, measures should be taken to protect the insulation from getting wet.7.31. The edge of the brick plinth and other protruding parts of the masonry after their construction should be protected from atmospheric moisture, following the instructions in the project, in the absence of instructions in the project - with cement-sand mortar of a grade not lower than M100 and Mrz50.

WALL COVERING DURING THE PROCESS OF MASONRY CONSTRUCTION

7.32. For facing work, cement-sand mortars based on Portland cement and pozzolanic cements should be used. The alkali content in cement should not exceed 0.6%. The mobility of the solution, determined by the immersion of a standard cone, should be no more than 7 cm, and to fill the vertical gap between the wall and the tile, in the case of fixing the tiles on steel ties, no more than 8 cm. 7.33. When facing brick walls with large concrete slabs, carried out simultaneously with masonry, the following requirements must be observed: cladding should begin by laying a supporting L-shaped row of facing slabs embedded in the masonry at the level of the interfloor ceiling, then installing ordinary flat slabs and fastening them to the wall; when the thickness of the facing slabs is more than 40 mm, the facing row must be installed before the masonry is done, to the height of the facing row; with a slab thickness of less than 40 mm, it is necessary to first carry out the laying to the height of the row of slabs, then install the facing slab; installation of thin slabs before the construction of the wall masonry is allowed only in the case of installing fasteners holding the slabs; it is not allowed to install facing slabs of any thickness above the wall masonry by more than two rows of slabs. 7.34. Cladding slabs must be installed with mortar joints along the contour of the slabs or close to each other. In the latter case, the joining edges of the slabs must be sanded.7.35. The construction of walls with their simultaneous cladding, rigidly connected to the wall (facing brick and stone, slabs of silicate and heavy concrete), at subzero temperatures should, as a rule, be carried out using a solution with an anti-frost additive of sodium nitrite. Masonry facing with facing ceramic and sand-lime bricks and stone can be done using the freezing method according to the instructions in the subsection “Erection of stone structures in winter conditions.” In this case, the grade of mortar for masonry and cladding must be at least M50.

FEATURES OF MASONRY OF ARCHES AND VOXES

7.36. The laying of arches (including arched lintels in walls) and vaults must be done from bricks or stones of the correct shape using cement or mixed mortar. For laying arches, vaults and their heels, Portland cement mortars should be used. The use of slag Portland cement and pozzolanic Portland cement, as well as other types of cements that harden slowly at low positive temperatures, is not allowed. 7.37. The laying of arches and vaults should be carried out according to a project containing working drawings of formwork for laying vaults of double curvature.7.38. Deviations of the dimensions of the formwork of doubly curvature arches from the design should not exceed: along the lifting boom at any point of the arch, 1/200 of the rise, in terms of the displacement of the formwork from the vertical plane in the middle section, 1/200 of the lifting boom of the arch, in the width of the arch wave - 10 mm.7.39. The laying of waves of doubly curvature arches must be done according to movable templates installed on the formwork. The laying of arches and vaults should be done from the heels to the castle simultaneously on both sides. Masonry joints must be completely filled with mortar. The upper surface of doubly curvature vaults, 1/4 brick thick, should be rubbed with mortar during the laying process. With a greater thickness of vaults made of brick or stones, the masonry seams must be additionally filled with liquid mortar, while the upper surface of the vaults is not grouted with mortar.7.40. The laying of doubly curvature vaults should begin no earlier than 7 days after the completion of the installation of their heels at an outside air temperature above 10 °C. At an air temperature of 10 to 5 °C, this period increases by 1.5 times, from 5 to 1 °C - by 2 times. The laying of vaults with ties, in the heels of which prefabricated reinforced concrete elements or steel frames are installed, can begin immediately after completion devices five.7.41. The abutting edges of adjacent waves of doubly curvature arches are maintained on the formwork for at least 12 hours at an outside air temperature above 10 °C. At lower positive temperatures, the duration of keeping the arches on the formwork increases in accordance with the instructions of clause 7.40. Loading of dismantled arches and arches at an air temperature above 10 ° C is allowed no earlier than 7 days after the end of the masonry. At lower positive temperatures, the holding time is increased according to clause 7.40. The insulation on the vaults should be laid symmetrically from the supports to the castle, avoiding one-sided loading of the vaults. The tensioning of the tie-rods in the arches and vaults should be done immediately after the completion of the masonry. 7.42. The construction of arches, vaults and their heels in winter conditions is allowed at an average daily temperature of not lower than minus 15 ° C using solutions with anti-frost additives (subsection “Erection of stone structures in winter conditions”). Wave vaults erected at sub-zero temperatures are kept in the formwork for at least 3 days.

MASONRY FROM RUBBER STONE AND RUBBED CONCRETE

7.43. Stone structures made of rubble and rubble concrete may be erected using rubble stone of irregular shape, with the exception of the outer sides of the masonry, for which bedded stone should be used.7.44. Rubble masonry should be done in horizontal rows up to 25 cm high with trenching the stone on the front side of the masonry, crushing and filling the voids with mortar, as well as bandaging the seams. Rubble masonry with pouring cast mortar into the seams between the stones is allowed only for structures in buildings up to 10 m high, erected on non-subsidence soils.7.45. When lining rubble masonry with brick or stone of the correct shape simultaneously with the masonry, the lining should be tied with the masonry in a bonded row every 4-6 rows of spoons, but no more than after 0.6 m. The horizontal seams of the rubble masonry must coincide with the dressing bonded rows of the cladding. 7.46. Breaks in the rubble stone masonry are allowed after filling the gaps between the stones of the top row with mortar. Resumption of work must begin by spreading the mortar over the surface of the stones of the top row.7.47. Structures made of rubble concrete must be erected in compliance with the following rules: laying the concrete mixture should be done in horizontal layers with a height of no more than 0.25 m; the size of stones embedded in concrete should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the structure being built; stones embedded in concrete should be done directly behind laying concrete during the process of compaction; the construction of rubble concrete foundations in trenches with steep walls can be carried out without formwork; breaks in work are allowed only after laying a number of stones in the last (upper) layer of the concrete mixture; resumption of work after a break begins with laying the concrete mixture. Structures made of rubble and rubble concrete erected in dry and hot weather should be cared for in the same way as monolithic concrete structures.

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WORK IN SEISMIC AREAS

7.48. Masonry of brick and ceramic slatted stones must be carried out in compliance with the following requirements: masonry of stone structures should be carried out over the entire thickness of the structure in each row; masonry of walls should be carried out using single-row (chain) ligation; horizontal, vertical, transverse and longitudinal joints of the masonry should be filled mortar completely with trimming the mortar on the outer sides of the masonry; temporary (installation) breaks in the masonry being erected should be terminated only with an inclined fine and located outside the areas of structural reinforcement of the walls. 7.49. The use of bricks and ceramic stones with a high content of salts protruding on their surfaces is not allowed. The surface of bricks, stones and blocks must be cleaned of dust and dirt before laying: for masonry using conventional mortars in areas with a hot climate - with a stream of water; for masonry using polymer cement solutions - using brushes or compressed air.7.50. At negative temperatures outdoor air, large units should be installed using solutions with antifreeze additives. In this case, the following requirements must be observed: before starting masonry work, the optimal ratio between the amount of pre-wetting of the wall material and the water content of the mortar mixture should be determined; conventional mortars must be used with high water-holding capacity (water separation no more than 2%). 7.51. As a rule, Portland cement should be used to prepare solutions. The use of slag Portland cement and pozzolanic Portland cement for polymer-cement mortars is not allowed. To prepare solutions, sand that meets the requirements of GOST 8736-85 should be used. Other types of fine aggregates can be used after research into the strength and deformation properties of mortars based on them, as well as the adhesion strength to masonry materials. Sands with a high content of fine-grained clay and dust particles cannot be used in polymer-cement mortars. 7.52. When laying with polymer-cement mortars, the brick should not be moistened before laying, as well as the masonry during the period of curing. 7.53. Monitoring the strength of normal adhesion of the mortar during manual laying should be done at the age of 7 days. The adhesion value should be approximately 50% of the strength at 28 days of age. If the adhesive strength in masonry does not correspond to the design value, it is necessary to stop the work until the issue is resolved by the design organization.7.54. During the construction of buildings, contamination of niches and gaps in walls, spaces between floor slabs and other places intended for reinforced concrete inclusions, chords and strapping, as well as the reinforcement located in them, is not allowed with mortar and construction waste.7.55. It is prohibited to reduce the width of anti-seismic joints specified in the project. Anti-seismic joints must be freed from formwork and construction waste. It is prohibited to seal anti-seismic joints with bricks, mortar, lumber, etc. If necessary, anti-seismic joints can be covered with aprons or sealed with flexible materials.7.56. When installing lintel and strapping blocks, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of free passage of vertical reinforcement through the holes provided by the design in the lintel blocks.

CONSTRUCTION OF STONE STRUCTURES IN WINTER CONDITIONS

7.57. The laying of stone structures in winter conditions should be carried out using cement, cement-lime and cement-clay mortars. The composition of a mortar of a given grade (ordinary and with anti-frost additives) for winter work, the mobility of the mortar and the period for maintaining mobility are established in advance by the construction laboratory in accordance with the requirements current regulatory documents and adjusts them taking into account the materials used. For winter masonry, mortars with mobility should be used: 9-13 cm - for masonry made of ordinary bricks and 7-8 cm - for masonry made of bricks with voids and natural stone. 7.58. Masonry in winter time can be carried out using all dressing systems used in the summer. When masonry is done on mortars without anti-frost additives, a single-row dressing should be performed. With a multi-row dressing system, vertical longitudinal seams are tied at least every three rows when laying brick and every two rows when laying ceramic and silicate stone with a thickness of 138 mm. Brick and stone should be laid with complete filling of vertical and horizontal joints.7.59. The construction of walls and pillars along the perimeter of the building or within the limits between sedimentary seams should be carried out evenly, without allowing gaps in height of more than 1/2 floor. When laying blind sections of walls and corners, gaps are allowed with a height of no more than 1/2 floor and are made with a fine. 7.60. It is not allowed to lay the mortar on the top row of masonry during breaks in work. To protect against icing and snow drift, the top of the masonry should be covered during breaks in work. The sand used in masonry mortars should not contain ice and frozen lumps, lime and clay dough should be unfrozen with a temperature of at least 10 ° C. 7.61. Structures made of bricks, stones of regular shape and large blocks in winter conditions can be erected in the following ways: with antifreeze additives in mortars of at least grade M50; in ordinary mortars without antifreeze additives, followed by timely hardening of the masonry by heating; by freezing using ordinary mortars (without antifreeze additives) solutions not lower than grade 10, provided that sufficient load-bearing capacity of the structures is ensured during the thawing period (at zero strength of the solution).

Masonry with anti-frost additives

7.62. When preparing solutions with antifreeze additives, you should be guided by reference Appendix 16, which establishes the scope and consumption of additives, as well as the expected strength depending on the time of hardening of the solutions in frost. When using potash, clay dough should be added - no more than 40% of the cement mass.

Masonry using mortars without anti-frost additives, followed by strengthening of structures by heating

7.63. When constructing buildings on mortars without anti-frost additives with subsequent strengthening of structures by artificial heating, the procedure for carrying out the work should be provided for in the working drawings.

Table 30

Design air temperature, °C		Wall thickness in bricks
outdoor	internal	Thawing depth during heating duration, days

Notes: 1. Above the line is the depth of thawing of masonry (% of wall thickness) made of dry ceramic bricks, below the line is the same, made of silicate or wet ceramic bricks.2. When determining the depth of thawing of frozen masonry of walls heated on one side, the calculated value of the weight moisture content of the masonry is accepted: 6% for masonry made of dry ceramic bricks, 10% for masonry made of silicate or ceramic wet (harvested in autumn) bricks.7.64. Masonry by heating structures must be carried out in compliance with the following requirements: the insulated part of the structure must be equipped with ventilation, ensuring air humidity during the heating period is no more than 70%; loading of heated masonry is allowed only after control tests and establishment of the required strength of the heated masonry solution; temperature inside the heated part of the building in the coldest places - near the outer walls at a height of 0.5 m from the floor - should not be lower than 10 °C.7.65. The depth of thawing of masonry in structures when heated with warm air on one side is taken according to table. thirty; duration of thawing of masonry with an initial temperature of minus 5 ° C with double-sided heating - according to >Table. 31, when heated from four sides (pillars) - according to table. 31 with data reduction by 1.5 times; strength of solutions hardening at different temperatures - according to table. 32.

Freezing masonry

7.66. Using the freezing method using ordinary (without anti-frost additives) solutions during the winter period, it is permitted, with appropriate calculation justification, to erect buildings with a height of no more than four floors and no higher than 15 m. The requirements for masonry made using the freezing method also apply to structures made of brick blocks, made of ceramic bricks of positive temperature, frozen until the masonry blocks have reached their tempering strength and not heated until they are loaded. The compressive strength of masonry made from such blocks in the thawing stage is determined based on the strength of the mortar equal to 0.5 MPa. Freezing rubble masonry from torn rubble is not allowed. 7.67. When laying by freezing mortars (without anti-frost additives), the following requirements must be observed: the temperature of the mortar at the time of its laying must correspond to the temperature indicated in the table. 33; the work should be carried out simultaneously along the entire grip; in order to avoid freezing of the mortar, it should be laid on no more than two adjacent bricks when doing a mile and on no more than 6-8 bricks when backfilling; at the mason’s workplace, a supply of mortar is allowed no more than 30-40 minutes. The box for the solution must be insulated or heated. Using a solution that is frozen or heated with hot water is not allowed.

Table 31

Characteristics of masonry	Heating air temperature, °C	Duration, days, of thawing of masonry with the thickness of the walls in bricks
From red brick on mortar:
From sand-lime brick with mortar:

Table 32

Age of solution, days	Strength of mortar depending on brand, %, at hardening temperature, °C

Notes: 1. When using mortars made with slag Portland cement and pozzolanic Portland cement, one should take into account the slowdown in the increase in their strength at a hardening temperature below 15 °C. The relative strength of these solutions is determined by multiplying the values ​​given in table. 32, by coefficients: 0.3 - at a hardening temperature of 0 °C; 0.7 - at 5 °C; 0.9 - at 9 °C; 1 - at 15 °C and above.2. For intermediate values ​​of the hardening temperature and age of the solution, its strength is determined by interpolation.

Table 33

Average daily outside air temperature, °C	Positive solution temperature, °C, at the masonry workplace
	made of bricks and stones of regular shape		from large blocks
	at wind speed, m/s
Up to minus 10
From minus 11 to minus 20
Below minus 20

Note. To obtain the required solution temperature, heated water (up to 80 °C), as well as heated sand (not higher than 60 °C), can be used. 7.68. Before the onset of the thaw, before the start of thawing of the masonry, all the measures provided for by the work project for unloading, temporary fastening or strengthening its overstressed sections (pillars, piers, supports, trusses and girders, etc.) should be carried out on all floors of the building. It is necessary to remove accidental loads not provided for by the design (construction waste, building materials) from the floors.

Work quality control

7.69. Quality control of construction work stone buildings in winter conditions should be carried out at all stages of construction. In the work log, in addition to the usual entries on the composition of the work performed, the following should be recorded: the temperature of the outside air, the amount of additive in the solution, the temperature of the solution at the time of laying and other data affecting the hardening process of the solution. 7.70. The construction of a building can be carried out without checking the actual strength of the mortar in the masonry as long as the erected part of the building, according to calculations, does not cause overload of the underlying structures during the thawing period. Further construction of the building is permitted only after the mortar has acquired a strength (confirmed by laboratory test data) not lower than that required by calculation, specified in the working drawings for the construction of a building in winter conditions. To carry out subsequent control of the strength of the mortar with antifreeze additives, it is necessary to make cube samples measuring 7.07 x 7.07 x 7.07 cm on a water-suction base directly at the site. When constructing one or two-section houses, the number of control samples on each floor (except for the top three) must be at least 12. With the number sections of more than two there must be at least 12 control samples for every two sections. Samples, at least three, are tested after 3-hour thawing at a temperature not lower than 20 ± 5 ° C. Control cube samples should be tested within the time frame required for floor-by-floor control strength of the mortar during construction of structures. Samples should be stored in the same conditions as the structure being erected and protected from contact with water and snow. To determine the final strength of the mortar, three control samples must be tested after thawing in natural conditions and a subsequent 28-day period hardening at an outside temperature of not lower than 20 ±5 °C.7.71. In addition to testing cubes, and also in the absence of them, it is allowed to determine the strength of the mortar by testing samples with an edge of 3-4 cm, made from two mortar plates taken from horizontal joints.7.72. When constructing buildings by freezing using ordinary (without anti-frost additives) mortars with subsequent strengthening of the masonry by artificial heating, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature conditions of the hardening of the mortar and record them in a log. The air temperature in the rooms during heating is measured regularly, at least three times a day: at 1, 9 and 17 o'clock. The air temperature should be monitored at least 5-6 points near the external walls of the heated floor at a distance of 0.5 m from the floor . The average daily air temperature in a heated floor is determined as the arithmetic mean of private measurements.7.73. Before the approach of spring and during the period of prolonged thaws, it is necessary to strengthen control over the condition of all load-bearing structures of buildings erected in the autumn-winter period, regardless of their number of storeys, and develop measures to remove additional loads, install temporary fastenings and determine conditions for the further continuation of construction work.7.74 . During natural thawing, as well as artificial heating of structures, constant observations should be organized of the magnitude and uniformity of wall settlements, the development of deformations in the most stressed areas of the masonry, and the hardening of the mortar. Observation must be carried out throughout the entire hardening period until the mortar reaches its design (or close to it) strength .7.75. If signs of overstressing of the masonry are detected in the form of deformation, cracks or deviations from the vertical, urgent measures should be taken to temporarily or permanently strengthen the structures.

Strengthening stone structures of reconstructed and damaged buildings

7.76. Work to strengthen the stone structures of reconstructed and damaged buildings is carried out in accordance with the working drawings and the work project. 7.77. Before strengthening stone structures, the surface should be prepared: visually inspect and tap the masonry with a hammer, clean the surface of the masonry from dirt and old plaster, remove partially destroyed (thawed) masonry.7.78. Reinforcement of stone structures by injection, depending on the degree of damage or the required increase in the load-bearing capacity of structures, should be performed using cement-sand, sandless or cement-polymer mortars. For cement and cement-polymer mortars, it is necessary to use Portland cement grade M400 or M500 with a grinding fineness of at least 2400 cm 3 /g . The cement paste should be of normal thickness within 20-25%. When preparing an injection solution, it is necessary to control its viscosity and water separation. Viscosity is determined using a VZ-4 viscometer. It should be 13-17 s for cement mortars, 3-4 min for epoxy mortars. Water separation, determined by holding the solution for 3 hours, should not exceed 5% of the total volume of the mortar mixture sample. 7.79. When reinforcing stone structures with steel clips (angles with clamps), the installation of metal corners should be done in one of the following ways: first, a layer of cement mortar of a grade not lower than M100 is applied to the reinforced element in the places where the corners of the clip are installed. Then install the corners with clamps and create a preliminary tension in the clamps with a force of 10-15 kN; second - the corners are installed without mortar with a gap of 15-20 mm, fixed with steel or wooden wedges, create a tension in the clamps with a force of 10-15 kN. The gap is caulked with a rigid solution, the wedges are removed and the clamps are fully tensioned to 30-40 kN. With both methods of installing metal clips, the clamps are fully tensioned 3 days after they are tensioned. 7.80. Reinforcement of stone structures with reinforced concrete or reinforced mortar cages should be carried out in compliance with the following requirements: reinforcement should be performed with connected frames. The reinforcement frames must be fixed in the design position using staples or hooks driven into the masonry joints in increments of 0.8-1.0 m in a checkerboard pattern. It is not allowed to connect flat frames into spatial frames by manual spot welding; for formwork, demountable formwork should be used, the formwork panels should be rigidly connected to each other and ensure the density and immutability of the structure as a whole; the concrete mixture should be laid in even layers and compacted with a vibrator, avoiding damage to the solidity the masonry section to be strengthened; the concrete mixture must have a cone draft of 5-6 cm, the crushed stone fraction should not exceed 20 mm; the stripping of the cages should be carried out after the concrete reaches 50% of the design strength.7.81. When reinforcing stone walls with steel strips in the presence of a plaster layer, it is necessary to make horizontal grooves in it with a depth equal to the thickness of the plaster layer and a width equal to the width of the metal strip 20 mm. 7.82. When strengthening stone walls with internal anchors, it is necessary to inject the holes in the wall under the anchors with mortar. The main holes for the anchors should be placed in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 50-100 cm with a crack opening width of 0.3-1 mm and 100-200 cm with a crack opening width of 3 mm and more. In places where small cracks are concentrated, additional wells should be located. Wells must be drilled to a depth of 10-30 cm, but not more than 1/2 the thickness of the wall.7.83. When reinforcing stone walls with prestressed steel ties, the exact tension force of the ties should be controlled using a torque wrench or by measuring deformations with a dial indicator with a division value of 0.001 mm. When installing ties in winter in unheated rooms, it is necessary to tighten the ties in the summer, taking into account the temperature difference. 7.84. Replacement of piers and pillars with new masonry should begin with the installation of temporary fastenings and dismantling of window fillings in accordance with the working drawings and the work project. New masonry of the wall must be done carefully, with a tight fit of the brick to obtain a thin seam. The new masonry should not be brought closer to the old one by 3-4 cm. The gap must be carefully caulked with a rigid mortar of a grade of at least 100. Temporary fastening can be removed after the new masonry reaches at least 70% of design strength.7.85. When reinforcing masonry, the following are subject to control: the quality of surface preparation of masonry; compliance of reinforcement structures with the design; quality of welding of fasteners after stressing structural elements; presence and quality of anti-corrosion protection of reinforcement structures.

Acceptance of stone structures

7.86. Acceptance of completed work on the construction of stone structures must be carried out before plastering their surfaces.7.87. Elements of stone structures hidden during construction and installation work, including: places where trusses, purlins, beams, floor slabs are supported on walls, pillars and pilasters and their embedding in masonry; fastening prefabricated reinforced concrete products in masonry: cornices, balconies and others cantilever structures; embedded parts and their anti-corrosion protection; reinforcement laid in stone structures; sedimentary expansion joints, anti-seismic seams; water vapor barrier of masonry; should be accepted according to documents certifying their compliance with the design and regulatory and technical documentation.7.88. When accepting completed work on the construction of stone structures, it is necessary to check: the correctness of the dressing of the seams, their thickness and filling, as well as the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the corners of the masonry; the correctness of the arrangement of expansion joints; the correctness of the arrangement of smoke and ventilation ducts in the walls; the quality of the surfaces of façade unplastered brick walls ;quality of facade surfaces lined with ceramic, concrete and other types of stones and slabs; geometric dimensions and position of structures.7.89. When accepting stone structures carried out in seismic areas, the installation of: a reinforced belt at the level of the top of the foundations; floor-by-floor anti-seismic belts; fastenings is additionally controlled thin walls and partitions to main walls, frames and ceilings; strengthening of stone walls with inclusions of monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete elements in the masonry; anchoring of elements protruding above the attic floor, as well as the adhesion strength of the mortar to the wall stone material. 7.90. Deviations in the dimensions and position of stone structures from the design ones should not exceed those indicated in >Table. 34.

Table 34

Tested structures (parts)	Maximum deviations, mm					Control (method, type of registration)
			foundation
	made of brick, ceramic and natural stones of regular shape, from large blocks		from rubble and rubble concrete
Thickness of structures						Measuring, work log
Reference surface marks
Width of piers
Opening width
Displacement of the vertical axes of window openings from the vertical
Displacement of structure axes from alignment axes						Measuring, geodetic as-built diagram
Deviations of surfaces and corners of masonry from the vertical:
one floor
for a building more than two floors high
Thickness of masonry joints:						Measuring, work log
horizontal
vertical
Deviations of masonry rows from the horizontal per 10 m of wall length						Technical inspection, geodetic as-built diagram
Irregularities on the vertical surface of the masonry, discovered when applying a 2 m long batten						Technical inspection, work log
Ventilation duct cross-sectional dimensions						Measuring, work log

Note. The dimensions of permissible deviations for structures made of vibrated brick, ceramic and stone blocks and panels are given in parentheses.

The main documents regulating processes in the construction industry are collections of norms and rules. If all SNiP requirements are met, the brickwork will be highly reliable and resistant to adverse environmental factors. Although SNiP II-22-81* “Stone and reinforced masonry structures” have undergone virtually no changes since their approval, they remain relevant to this day.

SNiP were developed by the Central Research Institute of Building Structures named after. V.A. Kucherenko is a leading organization in the industry, so each of the points in the document is carefully substantiated by theoretical calculations and practical tests. Using the requirements of the standard in private construction, you can increase the reliability and durability of brickwork, as well as avoid possible problems.

Characteristics of brick and masonry

The main components of any type of masonry are cement mortar and brick blocks. The overall stability of the walls and the entire building depends on their mechanical properties. In order for the garage to withstand seasonal temperature changes, snow and wind loads, and the weight of the roof and at the same time remain stable for many years, it is important to choose the right building materials with optimal characteristics.

Building codes clearly regulate what properties certain materials should have. Additional, more detailed information is indicated in State Standards developed specifically for each type of product. GOST 530-2012 “Ceramic brick and stone. General Specifications » lists the following technical characteristics of the products:

1. Strength is a parameter on which the stability of a building depends. Strength is indicated by an alphanumeric index (from M25 to M1000), while the second part displays the pressure in kg/cm 2 that the block can withstand without destruction.
2. Frost resistance is the minimum number of consecutive freezing and thawing cycles during which the brick retains its integrity. The symbol for frost resistance is the Latin letter F, next to which the sum of seasonal cycles is indicated.
3. The medium density class depends on the number and total volume of voids placed inside an individual block. Under natural conditions, the voids are filled with air, which is the simplest, but at the same time effective, heat insulator. The more insulated air chambers a brick has, the higher its heat specifications.

Construction of garage walls

Which brick is best to make masonry from? Garages are usually not subject to high requirements in terms of thermal insulation. The exception is when the building is directly adjacent to a residential building. In such cases, there will be active heat exchange between the garage walls and the external environment, which can negatively affect the heating efficiency in the home.

In the climate of our country, the thickness of the garage walls should be from 0.5 to 2.5-3 bricks. The optimal option, ensuring reliability and economy, is 1.5 blocks, but to reduce costs, the thickness is often reduced to a single masonry or half-brick wall.

Calculating the amount of required materials is an important stage preceding construction. The standard brick consumption per 1 m2 of wall is:

• 100 blocks and 75 liters of mortar when laying one brick;
• 50 blocks and 35 liters of mortar when laying 0.5 bricks.

During construction, it is important to ensure reliable waterproofing of the walls from the concrete foundation, otherwise the lower part of the garage will constantly get wet, and in winter cracks will appear from ice getting inside the cavities. Insulation is made from ordinary roofing felt, which is laid on the foundation surface previously coated with molten bitumen.

In order to facilitate the laying process, you can use the following technique: bricks without mortar are laid along the future wall, and the optimal thickness of the seams between them is set to 10-12 mm. The required portion of the mortar is scooped up with a trowel and placed in place of the first brick, having previously lifted it. After this, the block is returned to its place, and the operation is repeated for the next one. Having before your eyes a ready-made layer of brick installed in this way, you can easily comply with the specified parameters for the next rows.

Do I need to further strengthen the garage walls? Reinforcement can be necessary measure, if the designed load is significant, for example, if there is a second floor or a high garage height. The support of lintels of window and door openings, according to the requirements of regulatory documents, must be carried out on walls with a thickness of at least 200 mm.

For the construction of internal walls and partitions it is recommended to use silicate blocks. They are cheaper than ceramic ones, but at the same time satisfy all the reliability requirements of SNiP.

By designing a garage, private house, cottage or outbuilding in accordance with the requirements of current regulatory documents, you will ensure their high reliability and resistance to external factors.

SNiP II-22-81* “Stone and reinforced stone structures” contains all the basic instructions that relate to the calculation of structures, requirements for the mechanical properties of blocks and cement mortar, as well as issues of ensuring thermal performance characteristics.

When it comes time to build a brick wall, there are a number of guidelines to keep in mind that you need to follow. SNiP lays out brickwork on the shelves, how and according to what indicators construction should take place, what standards should be met.

Before starting any brickwork, a number of preparatory work must be completed:

1. It is required to completely complete all construction work related to the non-residential floor.
2. Geodesy and all diagrams have been checked and the construction of floors has been completed.
3. All construction materials near the construction site must be prepared.
4. It is necessary to prepare construction tools, worker protection equipment and first aid equipment for work.
5. All workers involved in the project must be familiar with the construction scheme, as well as safety precautions.

There are a number of instructions regarding the storage and storage of materials, as well as construction equipment. When receiving building materials, documents are reviewed to determine the quality of the material. Afterwards, the data in the “passport” is compared with a visual inspection. Only after this can you use this material.

A number of indicators that should be checked include:

1. Name and address of the supplier's company.
2. Serial number, as well as the date of issue of the document indicating quality.
3. Marking of goods delivered and Quantity of products received.
4. The date according to which the material was manufactured.
5. The quality of the resulting material and compliance with GOST.

Installation technology

The entire process of laying a brick wall must be carried out in accordance with the standards and according to the drawing. It is recommended to use masons of 2-5 categories. The work is performed in strict sequence, according to established standards:

1. Marking walls, installing wooden openings on the base.
2. Installation of the ordering rail (if necessary).
3. Pulling the cord along which the wall will be built.
4. Preparing bricks for laying.
5. Preparation of cement mortar.
6. Laying bricks on mortar ().
7. Inspection upon completion of construction work.
8. Installing channels over wooden openings to reduce the load on the tree.

Specialists of different categories are involved in the construction process. Specialists K1 and K2 carry out the laying of the outer wall and its further cladding. Masons of categories 2 and 4 carry out the laying of internal walls and resort to the help of K3. The stringing of the cord is carried out only by masons of the highest category, since the quality and slope of the building depend on them.

They often resort to reinforced masonry walls. It is worth noting that this method is only suitable for external walls. A reinforcing mesh is made from reinforcing wire by welding, which is placed between each level of brick.

Masonry of internal walls and partitions

The construction of an internal load-bearing wall and partitions involves a number of specific actions. In general, the technology does not differ significantly from the masonry of external walls. It is only worth noting that ceramic bricks are used for partitions.

The mooring must be tensioned individually for each row of masonry. In places where two load-bearing walls intersect, both must be erected simultaneously. Unlike external walls, reinforcement can be carried out every 3-4 rows. The mortar must be evenly applied to the surface of the brick so that the joints are of equal thickness. The verticality of the edges and the accuracy of the masonry angles must be checked at each level without fail.

The installation of a channel as a lintel over windows and doors is carried out using construction equipment. The mortar is applied to the brick base in advance. When installing them, you should pay attention to the vertical and horizontal marks and the support of the jumpers. In addition, it is necessary to install reinforcement to support the face of the brick.

Wooden formwork should be removed no earlier than after 5-6 days. As for the winter period, experts recommend waiting 2 weeks.

Safety precautions

Every worker and project manager must be familiar with all safety regulations. All of them are clearly stated in SNiP 12-03-2001 “Labor safety in construction” section 1. Basic requirements. It is worth highlighting the basic rules:

Wall arrangement

1. All lifting of building materials must be carried out using special lifting equipment and packaging material, which will help prevent them from falling.
2. Workers who lift and receive construction material must be trained in slinging. In addition, maintain constant communication with the crane operator.
3. All openings must be blocked to avoid accidents. A safety net must be attached to the lower tiers to prevent workers and construction materials from falling.
4. When carrying out construction work, it is prohibited to stand with your feet on fresh masonry or even lean on it. The structure is too unreliable and may collapse.
5. The space between the scaffolding and the masonry should not exceed half a meter to prevent the worker from falling out. Scaffolds should be regularly cleared of debris that could cause worker falls or injury. The garbage is packed into bags and lowered by crane. It is strictly prohibited to dump production waste downstairs.

Failure to comply with safety regulations is a threat not only to the offender, but also to others. For each violation, a reprimand should be given; for systematic violations, suspension from work and fines should be issued.

A monolithic belt is a reinforced reinforced concrete beam, which is made mainly under the ceiling of masonry walls.

At first glance, the purpose of such a belt is unclear: you can, after all, support the ceiling directly on the masonry and not install any belts. As they say, “cheap and cheerful.” Let’s look at the reasons for constructing a monolithic belt.
1. If the masonry material of the walls does not bear the load from the floor. In a brick wall made of solid brick, for example, monolithic belt not needed, but in a cinder block wall when supporting the ceiling of a large span, such a belt is necessary.

At the point where the slab is supported, a significant load is concentrated (from the ceiling, floors, people and furniture), and all of it does not fall evenly on the wall, but increases in the direction where the slabs are supported. Some masonry materials (cinder block, foam and aerated concrete, shell rock, etc.) do not work well when exposed to such a concentrated load, and may simply begin to collapse. This type of failure is called crushing. You can perform a special masonry calculation to determine whether a monolithic distribution belt is needed. But in some cases (when using cinder block, foam concrete), a monolithic belt must be made for design reasons based on experience in construction from these materials.

2. If the building is being built on weak soils (for example, subsidence). Such soils tend to deform significantly after some time, due to soaking or other unfavorable factors - to shrink under the weight of the building. In this case, part of the house may sag, resulting in cracks in the walls and foundation. One of the measures that protects against the adverse effects of subsidence is the installation of a continuous monolithic belt under the floors. It serves as a screed for the house and, with minor precipitation, can prevent the formation of cracks. If you are going to build a house, first of all inspect the houses in the neighboring areas (preferably those that were built a long time ago). If there are inclined cracks in the walls, running from the ground up, from the roof down, or from the corners of the windows up, then this is the first sign that a monolithic belt in your house will not be superfluous.

3. If the house is being built in a seismic area, the installation of monolithic belts is mandatory.

4. In multi-storey buildings, the standards also require the installation of monolithic belts.
Prefabricated floor or monolith?

It's time to decide on the type of flooring for your home. Here, as elsewhere, there are options that, first of all, depend on the number of floors.

If the house is one-story, and the top is only planned attic space, a lightweight option is possible - wooden flooring on metal or wooden beams.

For a house with an attic or a full second floor you need more reliable overlap. There are two here traditional options: prefabricated floor made of round-hollow slabs or monolithic floor. And to help you finally decide on the type of flooring, we will consider in detail the features of each of them.

So, prefabricated flooring. If there is a factory for reinforced concrete structures in your city or surrounding area, then you can choose this option. The advantages of prefabricated floors are speed of installation, reliability, guaranteed good quality. In most cases, this ceiling is also cheaper than a monolithic one.

What should you pay attention to? Standard slabs are produced in predetermined sizes (here are some slab lengths: 2.4; 3.0; 3.6; 4.5; 6.0; 7.2; 9.0 m), and require load-bearing walls for support. The layout of your home must clearly correspond to the dimensions of the selected slabs. In this case, it is worth checking in advance with the supplier or manufacturer what size slabs they can deliver. If you have slabs 3 m long at your disposal, the clear distance between the walls on which they rest should be no more than 2.8 m (the minimum amount of support of the slab on the wall is 10 cm). You will also have to partially refrain from round walls and other delights.

The slabs should rest with their opposite short sides on the load-bearing walls. Leaning on walls on three sides is undesirable. But constructing a balcony with the floor slab extending beyond the outer wall is simply unacceptable. Firstly, the floor slabs are designed so that the support zone is at their edge, but not somewhere in the span. And most importantly, when such a balcony is loaded, a collapse may simply occur. And one more big drawback of such improvisation is that in winter part of the slab will freeze. As a result, winter will make its way straight into the house along the so-called “cold bridge.” The result is that if it doesn’t collapse, it will simply freeze, or even “cry” - due to temperature changes, the ceiling may well become moistened, overgrown with fungus, mold and other delights.

Where it is not possible to place slabs (due to cramped dimensions or in areas of ventilation shafts from the kitchen and bathroom), it is necessary to construct monolithic sections. Let's say we have a distance between the walls of 3.15 m, and the available slabs are 1.0 m wide. In this case, there remains a gap of 15 cm between the two slabs, which needs to be filled with something. Here you have to place formwork from below, lay reinforcement and perform concreting (see figure - monolithic site width 150 mm). Such a monolithic section is reinforced with rods with a diameter of 6 mm in increments of 200 mm. Concrete is used class B15 (M200). Be sure to rest it on the ceiling (size 200×30 mm) with the bends of the reinforcement placed on the slab. Sometimes there is a need for monolithic sections of large width (up to 1 m), if you need to create a hole in the ceiling (for example, for ventilation shaft ducts). Please note - the wider the monolithic section, the larger the diameter of the reinforcement resting on the ceiling (see figure - monolithic section 980 mm wide). More information about all types monolithic areas in prefabricated ceiling can be found here.
When choosing a prefabricated floor, you should carefully consider the material of the load-bearing walls. So, if it is a brick, then the thickness of the brick wall should be at least 24 cm. If you use cinder block when building a house, you need to take into account its not very good load-bearing properties - in this case, under the ceiling you need to make a so-called monolithic belt - a reinforced concrete layer with a height 20-30 cm (see picture).
Now consider the option with a monolithic ceiling. Of course, it is multivariate and allows you to realize almost any fantasy regarding the layout of your home. Walls or columns can be positioned without the rigid restrictions imposed by the precast floor. Although it’s still not worth playing around with. The optimal distance between supports in monolithic reinforced concrete is 6 m. A larger distance, of course, is acceptable, but such an overlap must be calculated by a specialist. And this is where you need to take into account the importance of the issue and include the calculation of overlap in the expense item. An experienced specialist will help you not only ensure the reliability of the structure, but also save on material consumption - after all, the thickness of the floor can be from 140 to 200 mm, and according to the calculation, reinforcement must be used of different diameters - from 8 to 16 mm (and for large spans, even more ), and these are completely different costs. You can, of course, take everything by eye and with a reserve, but such savings will cost more.

Materials for the slab: concrete of strength class no less than B15, hot-rolled reinforcement of periodic profile. The slab is reinforced with meshes in two planes (in the lower and upper zones of the slab). Meshes can be welded (welded by resistance spot welding; welding of reinforcement crosses with electrodes is not allowed due to the high probability of burning out the reinforcing rod) or assembled from individual rods. In the latter case, at each intersection of the reinforcement, the rods must be tied with special wire. The optimal spacing for laying reinforcing bars is 200 mm. In this case, it is necessary to provide a protective layer of concrete for working reinforcement (the distance from the reinforcing bar to the concrete surface) is at least 20 mm. The protective layer not only ensures the safety of the reinforcement (if it is small, the metal corrodes and rusty streaks appear on the concrete), but also increases the fire resistance of the ceiling. The minimum amount of support for a monolithic floor on a wall is taken from the calculation that the working reinforcement must be inserted onto the support by at least 10 diameters (i.e., when reinforced with rods with a diameter of 12 mm, the insertion onto the support will be 120 mm; add a protective layer of 20 mm and we get a minimum support of the slab on the wall of 140 mm).

We've covered the theory, let's move on to practice. To install the floor, you will need scaffolding (a system of posts that support the floor until it has gained sufficient strength), formwork (metal or wooden panels on which concrete is laid), reinforcement and concrete, and most importantly, experienced builders. Another point is that concrete must be vibrated after laying. If the builders you hire carry concrete with wheelbarrows and lay it without compaction, relying on gravity, drive them in the neck. A prerequisite for a high-quality reinforced concrete structure is vibration compaction - this is when the concrete reaches the required density and works with the reinforcement as a single whole. Concreting at air temperatures below 5°C is not allowed (there may be exceptions, but a number of measures must be taken - heating the concrete, using special additives). Concrete reaches its strength within 27 days. All this time, positive air temperatures must be maintained and loads on the still fragile ceiling must be eliminated.

An armored belt, or a stiffening belt, is necessary to strengthen the walls of the house at the levels of support of the load-bearing structures of the floors and roof, and to give the house overall spatial rigidity and stability. Very simplified - you can compare armored belts with hoops holding a cooper's barrel. Armored belts are installed at different levels in parallel with the construction of the walls of the house. Monolithic reinforced concrete is the main material for creating armored belts for houses made of lightweight concrete cellular blocks (foam concrete, aerated concrete, etc.), wood concrete, expanded clay concrete, polystyrene concrete, etc. In some cases, brick is also used, for example, to strengthen walls made of porous ceramic blocks, or to strengthen small outbuildings made of any materials, if necessary.

The brick armored belt differs from the reinforced concrete one in less power and weight, and is made of 3-5 rows of masonry with bandaging and reinforcement in each row with a steel mesh made of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a cell of 50 mm. The width of the masonry is made equal to the load-bearing wall.

All of the above in no way applies to the purpose of reinforcing seismic belts, which may be necessary even for a building made of brick and monolithic reinforced concrete, during construction in areas with seismic hazard.

The main tasks of the armored belt:

• Increasing the spatial rigidity of the structure
• Distribution of loads on the foundation (and therefore on all building structures) from uneven movements of foundation soils during subsidence and frost heaving
• Reliable support and distribution of forces from the Mauerlat and floor slabs (beams) on walls made of porous fragile foam blocks, gas blocks or warm ceramic blocks

In some cases, the installation of an armored belt at one of the levels or at all levels is not necessary. In the case of constructing an outbuilding or a very small house with wooden purlins and insulated flooring, an armored belt is not required. Instead of installing an armored belt along the entire contour, the purlins are supported on special U-shaped gas blocks, filled with concrete mixture and reinforcement. To ensure the overall stability of such a wall, the purlins are secured with anchors embedded in the concrete filling of the aerated block at intervals of 1.5-2.5 meters. Purlins are supported on external walls made of aerated blocks (foam blocks, etc.), placing them in “sockets” in concrete, closed or open.

Another case when armored belts are not necessary is the construction of load-bearing walls made of brick, stone, monolithic reinforced concrete in removable or permanent formwork.

A base or foundation reinforced belt, made along the upper edge of the foundation, is needed for houses made of cellular concrete blocks, but the need for this stiffening belt is determined by the design of the foundation and the bearing capacity of the underlying soils. If the foundation soils are strong (rocky, coarse-grained, compacted coarse sands without water saturation) and not prone to heaving, as well as in the case when the foundation is made in the form of a floating slab, then an armored belt for the bottom row of blocks is not necessary. In cases where there are subsidence or weak soils at the base of the site (fine and pulverized sand, peat, loess, loam and clay with a high groundwater level), reinforcing belts are necessary.

Interfloor and mauerlat (sub-rafter) armored belts are required for all types of load-bearing walls made from fragile blocks. Local loads on expanded clay concrete, foam and aerated concrete blocks lead to their local destruction. To eliminate the possibility of deformation and destruction of walls from point forces from beams or interfloor slabs, armored belts are installed in each tier. As a result, the load is distributed evenly across the blocks along the entire perimeter of the load-bearing wall, while at the same time the perimeter receives spatial rigidity.

Walls made of arbolite blocks can be built without armored belts, provided the wall thickness is from 300 mm and there is sufficient compressive strength of the arbolite blocks used - from grade B2.5.

The need for a Mauerlat armored belt for walls made of light blocks is due to the fact that the Mauerlat needs to be attached to load-bearing walls with anchors. Anchoring in cellular blocks this is difficult and not always possible, but a monolithic belt will securely hold the anchors and the mauerlat (the rafter beam on which the entire rafter system rests). Gas blocks, foam blocks and expanded clay concrete blocks will not be able to hold anchors, and the forces arising from the wind load can lead to destruction - pitched roof in a strong wind it can literally blow off. If the walls are built of brick, the reinforced belt (seismic belt) of the upper tier is assigned only for reasons of spatial rigidity of the building.

For a foundation made of precast reinforced concrete (FRC), reinforced belts are installed under the base and at the level of the foundation edge. In case of heaving and subsidence of the foundation soil, the prefabricated foundation will work more like a monolithic structure. Tapes made of rubble concrete require reinforcement with at least one armored belt at the level of the sole. Strip foundations made of rubble concrete are economical and have some plasticity, but they do not have resistance to ground movements. Monolithic reinforced concrete strips are a one-piece frame structure and do not require armored belts. The same as a monolithic slab.

Interfloor ceilings for which armored belts are required:

It is imperative to install an armored belt at the floor level of reinforced concrete slabs, hollow and ribbed, if they are supported by load-bearing walls made of expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete and foam concrete.

To support a monolithic floor slab, an armored belt is not needed, since in this case the transfer of loads from the floor is uniform, and the structure is solid and already has spatial rigidity.

When supporting wooden beams on expanded clay concrete, foam concrete and aerated concrete, an armored belt can be omitted, but reinforcement under the supporting sections of the beams is required. Such reinforcement is performed in the form of platforms, or concrete pads about 50 mm high, in order to prevent the destruction of fragile blocks under the beams. If there is no need to increase the spatial stability of the structure, then it is possible to limit oneself to the installation of local reinforcement under the supporting parts of the beams and not to install an armored belt around the perimeter.

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How necessary is an armored belt?

Most often, a monolithic belt is a construction necessity, but in some cases such structural strengthening is not required.

You can do without an armored belt if:

• the foundation is poured below the soil freezing level;
• The walls of the house themselves are made of brick.

But even if these conditions are met, it is necessary that the floor slab extends onto both sides of the wall by at least 12 cm, and that the building itself is located in a seismically safe area.

An armored belt is necessary if:

• The house is multi-storey. In this case, the presence of monolithic belts is prescribed by regulations;
• The walls are built from porous materials, such as cinder blocks or aerated concrete. Under uneven pressure from the floor slab, these materials begin to crumple and quickly collapse;
• The building is being built on soft soil. In this case, there is a danger of subsidence of the house and, as a result, the formation of cracks in the walls. The monolithic belt will act as a screed and prevent cracks from occurring. Inspect old buildings in neighboring areas. If they are covered with cracks running down from the roof and up from the ground and the corners of the windows, then the construction of a reinforced belt is clearly necessary;
• The foundation of the building is made of prefabricated blocks or shallowly buried. The reinforced belt will evenly distribute the pressure of the slabs along the entire perimeter of the foundation;
• The house is located in a seismically active zone.

How to build a reinforced belt?

A monolithic belt is a structurally simple element. A formwork is built along the perimeter of the wall, into which metal reinforcement is mounted. Then the structure is poured with concrete and insulated.

To construct a monolithic armored belt, the following materials are required:

• Plywood/boards;
• Quick installation;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Nails;
• Ribbed metal rods;
• Bricks/stones;
• Concrete/sand, cement, crushed stone;
• Cellophane film;
• Insulation (foam);
• Knitting wire.

And tools:

• Welding machine;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Concrete mixer;
• Building level;
• Hammer.

First stage: erection of formwork

Most often, the formwork is assembled on the basis that the armored belt will be approximately 15-30 cm in height, and the width will either be narrower than the wall or the same size as it. In the second case, the formwork moves deeper into the wall, which makes it possible to subsequently fill the resulting gap with insulation.

The optimal materials for formwork are plywood, OSB boards, and boards. The formwork must be mounted so that its upper part is in a perfectly horizontal plane. This can be achieved by adjusting the installation using a building level.

There are several ways to install formwork:

• Fastening using electric welding. In this case, the anchors are passed through the formwork walls, and the plugs are welded;
• Fastening with quick installation. This method is much faster and easier to implement, but it requires some preliminary preparation. Installation practically does not adhere to materials such as aerated concrete or cinder block. If the main part of the building is built from similar materials, then the last rows under the proposed belt must be laid out of brick.

Holes are drilled through the board attached to the wall at a distance of 700 mm from each other. The fungus is inserted into the holes and secured with a screw. For quick installation, it is better to take 6x100 mm and a 6 mm drill. When removing the drill from the resulting hole, you need to swing it a little in different directions. The hole will increase slightly and the wood fibers will not interfere with the installation of the fungus.

We fix self-tapping screws at a distance of 1 m on the upper edge of the board, and nails are driven into the facing brickwork in the same way. Self-tapping screws are tightened in pairs with nails using tying wire.

Second stage: production of fittings

For the manufacture of the reinforcement frame, it is necessary to use only ribbed rods. Concrete mortar is attached to uneven surface ribs and thus provides greater load-bearing capacity and tensile strength.

The rods should be 12 mm in diameter and 6 m long. For transverse fastening, rods with a diameter of 10 mm are required. The transverse frame must be welded along the edges and in the central part; the remaining transverse rods are not welded, but tied with wire. During the frame assembly process, it is necessary to reduce welding work to a minimum. The fact is that the welded seam becomes less durable due to overheating, and when constructing a reinforced belt, this is unacceptable. Most of the parts should be assembled using tying wire.

The wire can be taken of the smallest thickness; its function is to maintain the integrity of the frame shape while pouring concrete. Using thick wire will not make the frame stronger, and installing such a structure will require much more money and effort.

When the two parts of the frame are ready, they are stacked, forming a small space between them. Then they are welded in the center and along the edges, forming a finished frame, which in cross-section has the shape of a square or rectangle. It is best to do this directly in the formwork, since the resulting part has quite a lot of weight.

There must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the reinforcement and each side of the structure. To raise the reinforcement above the horizontal surface, bricks or stones are placed under the frame.

When assembling parts into a solid reinforced belt, there is no need to use welding; you can simply make an overlap of 0.2 - 0.3 m between adjacent frame parts. The structure must lie level inside the formwork; to achieve this condition, it is necessary to use a building level.

Third stage: pouring concrete

Concrete for pouring a monolithic belt must be strong, since the weight of the floor slabs will rest on it. If ready-made concrete is used, it must be grade 200 or higher.

If you prepare the mixture yourself, then you need to carefully follow the technology and it is advisable to use a concrete mixer. Take 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and 5 parts crushed stone. The resulting mixture must be mixed well and, gradually adding water, brought to the required consistency.

Under no circumstances should concrete be poured in multiple layers. If it is not possible to fill the entire belt at once, it is necessary to make temporary vertical bridges from aerated concrete or boards. Before pouring the next portion of concrete, the lintel must be removed and the joint must be well watered.

When pouring a monolithic belt, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontalness of the resulting structure with a building level and eliminate differences as much as possible. In the future, it will be much easier to install floor slabs on a carefully leveled surface.

When the concrete has already been poured, it is necessary to pierce it using a special tool or just a piece of reinforcement. These simple steps will release air from the concrete and prevent the appearance of possible voids.

Poured concrete must be given the conditions to harden and gain strength. To do this, it is covered with a film so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly, and in hot weather it is pre-watered.

The formwork can be removed after approximately 3 days - the period depends on weather conditions. This is done using a crowbar or nail puller.

Stage four: insulation

The monolithic belt, having become part of the wall, plays the role of a heat conductor, and if measures are not taken to insulate it, “cold bridges” may arise. Before finishing work, insulation must be placed in the recesses left after removing the formwork. Styrofoam of the right size will work perfectly.

A monolithic reinforced belt will protect the house from destruction caused by many external reasons. This element of the building frame is not difficult to calculate and install; it can be done by anyone who has encountered construction at least once. When making a reinforced belt, you cannot skimp on materials. High-quality and correctly made, it will justify its cost. In many cases, a strong armored belt is the key to the strength and durability of the entire building.

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Application of the belt

1. In the case of using lightweight blocks and materials for laying load-bearing walls that do not easily resist the load from the floors. For example, cinder blocks, foam concrete and aerated concrete blocks, natural shell rock and limestone. It is worth explaining that in walls made of these materials, under the influence of the load on the foundation from the floor slab unevenly distributed over the area of ​​the wall, deformation processes called crushing can begin. They can cause subsequent destruction of the masonry wall. There are special methods for determining the feasibility of installing a reinforced belt. They take into account the resistance characteristics of the material various types loads using special coefficients. However, the experience of construction from light blocks, especially from foam and slag concrete, shows that a monolithic reinforced belt for masonry made from these materials is necessary for structural reasons.
2. When building on weak, subsiding soils, the installation of a belt is due to the danger of the building subsiding under the influence of factors unfavorable to the soil. For example, when wet under the influence of the load from the weight of the house, the soil will begin to deform. In this case, a continuous monolithic belt will be able to “keep” the wall and foundation from cracks and destruction. It is worth mentioning that the presence of a belt can help avoid wall destruction only up to certain deformation loads. Therefore, it is worthwhile to thoroughly study the properties of soils and evaluate the possibility of constructing a building, for example, near streams and rivers. If damage in the form of vertical cracks is visible in the walls of neighboring buildings, then a monolithic reinforced belt is required.
3. When constructing a building in a seismically dangerous region.

Structural objectives of the armored belt:

• the foundation and frame of the building are connected;
• uniform distribution of the load from the floor slabs along the entire perimeter on the walls and foundation;
• alignment of horizontal planes of load-bearing walls under the floor slab.

Materials and tools

1. Special wrench with ratchet for tying reinforcement.
2. Corners to strengthen the frame.
3. Welding machine.
4. Concrete mixer (or mixer, or drill with a mixing attachment).
5. Scoop and regular shovels.
6. Bucket.
7. Cement, water, sand, crushed stone.
8. Board for formwork installation.
9. Nails, screws.
10. 12 mm steel reinforcement.
11. Wire for knitting.
12. Good quality polyurethane foam.

Step-by-step device technology

Board formwork

The foundation or wall is covered with formwork made of boards. The reinforced monolithic belt is usually arranged with a height of 30 cm, and its width is equal to the width of the masonry (taking into account the distance for the insulation, see below). The bottom part of the board (approximately 5 cm high) is attached to the outer and inner sides of the wall with self-tapping screws. Both parts of the formwork are fastened with transverse pins. The horizontality of the upper part of the formwork is controlled by the water level. It must be strictly horizontal. The assembled formwork is a kind of gutter over the building frame.

Reinforced frame

Due to its heavy weight, the reinforcement cage is installed directly on the wall. Typically, heavy floor slabs are not used for buildings made of light blocks, so it is enough to use two 12 mm reinforcement bars. From these, by means of fastening with a special wire for knitting reinforcement, steps of a ladder with crossbars are made approximately every half meter. In the corners of the building it is necessary to strengthen the “ladder” by welding special corners. The frame is also assembled for the foundation.

It should be taken into account that the distance from the edge of the formwork to the frame rods should be 50 mm on each side. That is, the width of the frame should be 100 mm less than the width of the wall.

For heavier floor slabs, four reinforcement bars are used, welded in the shape of a quadrangle. This design is used for armored belts under the foundation. When constructing such a frame, it is also necessary to take into account the dimensions that should be set back from the wall.

From below, the frame also needs to be raised from the wall by 50 mm. This can be done by placing pieces of timber, brick or any available material under the reinforcement structure.

There are recommendations from experienced builders for driving nails or pieces of reinforcement into the top row of masonry at certain distances in order to further “connect” the foundation and the reinforced belt. The need for this work remains at the discretion of the owner of the house.

Pouring a monolithic belt

A monolithic reinforced belt is poured with a 1:3 cement-sand mortar with the addition of crushed stone. That is, for 1 part cement 3 parts sifted sand. With constant stirring, add water, checking the mixture for fluidity. It should not be too liquid so that it does not flow out of the formwork. We perform continuous pouring, constantly “bayoneting” the concrete to compact it and prevent the formation of voids.

To ensure continuity of the belt in the event of a need to stop work, it will be necessary to make a crossbar that only stops the process vertically. You can use a brick or block. When resuming work, remove the jumper and continue work, pouring plenty of water on the joint.

In good sunny weather, the concrete hardening time is approximately four days. Then the wall formwork or foundation is dismantled.

In conclusion, I would like to dwell on the issue of insulating the armored belt. This need disappears if, according to the design, the walls of the building are subject to insulation. Otherwise, the belt will act as a kind of conductor of cold, freezing in winter. This will lead to not very comfortable temperature in interior spaces, and subsequently to dampness and mold on the walls. Therefore, it is recommended to insulate it.

To do this, when installing a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, it is worth taking into account the width of the proposed insulation and the support depth of the floor slab, which must be determined according to SNiP 2.08.01-85.

Thermal insulation should be done from the outside of the house to avoid mold on the walls.

For insulation, holes must be made every 2-3 cm and foamed with foam. Foaming occurs in two stages: first, every second hole, and after a day or two, when the foam hardens, the remaining holes are foamed. The costs of insulation are quite serious, but this procedure cannot be avoided.

You need to foam in parts. Those. first, foam each odd-numbered hole, wait a couple of days (or, according to the instructions for the foam, after hardening), then foam each even-numbered hole - this will allow you to foam efficiently and at the same time slightly reduce foam consumption. Subsequently, the cladding can be placed along the armored belt.

1pobetonu.ru

Armopoyas is a structural element of a building, installed at the level of the top of the walls, under the floor slabs. The purpose of the armored belt is to ensure the joint operation of building structures during uneven deformations of wall materials. Also, the reinforcing belt provides a reliable connection between the walls of the building. Ensuring such a connection is necessary, since brickwork is an anisotropic material (the same can be said about masonry made from aerated blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay blocks, etc.), which cannot work equally in compression and tension.

It is necessary to clearly distinguish between the concepts of reinforced belt (armoshov), reinforced brick belt, monolithic belt. Armoshov consists of reinforcing bars arranged in one row, protected by a layer of c. p. solution. The thickness of such an armored seam (armoured belt) usually reaches 30 mm. Such a structural element is laid on top of the walls, under the support of the floor slabs. This type of armored belt should be provided on the first and last floors of the building, as well as every five floors throughout the entire height of the building.

Reinforced brick belt is a structural inclusion in brickwork made of monolithic reinforced concrete. The characteristic features of the reinforced brick belt are as follows: it is installed at the ends of the floor slabs and not over the entire width of the wall. Between the ends of the floor slabs and along the perimeter of the building, reinforcement cages are installed and concreted.

Monolithic reinforced concrete belt. This structural element in configuration and location resembles an armored belt (armoshov), but, unlike it, it is reinforced not with one row of reinforcing bars, but with several rows, usually two, and has a height of 15 cm or more. Functional advantage monolithic belt is to distribute the load from the floor slabs onto the walls of the building, i.e. load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls become loaded approximately equally and, thanks to this, give approximately equal load on the foundation, and also have a smaller difference in deformations under load than walls without monolithic belt. It is very important to install a monolithic belt when building a house from aerated concrete blocks. In low-rise construction, the roof truss plate is installed on a monolithic belt. Also, in addition to uniformly distributing the load between different walls, the monolithic belt protects the walls from the effects of local compression under the supports of the floor slabs (crushing), this is very important when building a house from aerated concrete and wood concrete blocks.

A fairly common design solution is to use a monolithic belt as a lintel over a window or doorway. In this case, the monolithic belt is calculated as a beam on two supports (a conventional reinforced belt cannot work as a lintel). In the general case, the beam appears to be rigidly clamped at the ends, but the decisions made in the design scheme still need to be ensured structurally. If the opening is located in the middle of an extended wall along which there is a monolithic belt, then the design diagram of a rigidly clamped beam will be provided. However, if the opening is located too close to the edge of the wall and has a large width (approximately 10-15*H, where H is the height of the monolithic belt), then in this case it is worth calculating it as a simply supported beam. Of course, it is possible to rigidly fasten a monolithic belt in brickwork, but this will require a number of structural calculations and constructive measures during construction, so it is better to strengthen the monolithic belt by installing metal channels along its edges above the opening, which, by the way, will also serve as permanent formwork.

In the general case, the calculation of the armored belt is carried out under the action of loads from uneven settlements of the building. The reinforcement belt should prevent rotation of one part of the building relative to another or its parallel displacement during uneven precipitation.

When installing reinforcement and monolithic belts on brick walls, the question arises about the construction of ventilation ducts that will cross the reinforcement belt through and through. Such solutions are very common in design practice, so that while maintaining the integrity of the working reinforcement (or part of the longitudinal rods) at the site of the ventilation duct, the operation of the reinforcement belt will not be disrupted.

autocad-prosto.ru

What is it needed for?

This element is designed to strengthen wall structures that may be subject to various adverse deforming effects:

• wind;
• uneven shrinkage of building structures;
• temperature changes that occur seasonally or within one day;
• subsidence of soil under the base of the foundation.

The armored belt (another name is the seismic belt) absorbs the uneven distribution of loads on itself, thereby protecting the structure from destruction.

The fact is that concrete is much more resistant to compressive loads than gas silicate blocks, and Built-in reinforcement helps prevent failure under tensile loading.

Thanks to the tandem of these two materials, the seismic belt during the construction of a house made of aerated concrete can withstand much greater loads than the standard ones.

The installation of an armored belt for an aerated concrete house is mandatory for several significant reasons:

1. A monolithic aerated concrete belt compensates for the resulting deformations in wall structures with heterogeneous loads or elastic modulus.
2. When installing a roof truss system, point overstressing of gas silicate blocks may occur, causing cracks and chips in them. This situation is also possible when attaching the Mauerlat to the load-bearing wall with anchors and studs.
3. When using a hanging rafter system, the reinforced belt additionally acts as a spacer that distributes the load from the roof over the entire house.

The main requirement for the quality of a seismic belt is its continuity. It is ensured by continuous circular pouring of this monolithic reinforced concrete section.

Let's learn how to make an armored belt. It is necessary to make an accurate calculation of its dimensions before starting work. The width of the belt should be equal to the width of the wall on which it is installed. Height - from 18 centimeters. Height is of greatest importance.

You can arrange a reinforced belt in several ways. The order of work is as follows:

1. installation of formwork;
2. insulation (if provided for by the project);
3. collection and installation of a frame made of reinforcement;
4. pouring concrete mortar.

By and large, the technology is no different from the process of constructing window lintels.

Concrete armored belt

Formwork

Removable design

The general design of the formwork consists of prefabricated elements - wooden panels made from boards. Instead of boards, you can use old furniture boards.

The formwork is fixed on the wall:

1. On the sides (using reinforcing pieces or metal wire)
2. On top (stiffeners are constructed from wooden scraps of 40x40 mm, which are nailed to the upper parts of parallel formwork panels in increments of 150 cm).
3. To prevent the formwork from shifting, its most loaded lower part is secured with a cross section of reinforcement.

The thickness of the formwork boards is directly affected by the height from which the solution will be poured: the higher the height, the thicker the formwork.

To prevent the solution from leaking out through cracks and gaps, all joints, corners and turns must be securely sealed.

The next step is the installation of a reinforcement frame made of steel elements with a diameter of 12 mm, connected together with knitting wire. Inside the formwork, the frame is installed on plastic supports (in extreme cases, you can use wooden blocks 3cm wide).

The formwork is dismantled using a nail puller:

• In summer - after 24 hours.
• In winter - after 72 hours.

It is worth noting that the thermal conductivity of concrete is several times higher than gas silicate. That's why This method of constructing formwork is acceptable only if the walls are fully insulated from the outside or for internal load-bearing walls. Otherwise, there will be constant freezing of the wall in the zone of the armored belt. The next method eliminates this drawback.

Using U-blocks

In order to prevent significant heat loss at the junction of two different materials (reinforced belt concrete and gas silicate walls), so-called permanent formwork is used.

It is made from factory standard box-shaped U-blocks.

The reinforced belt is constructed as follows:

1. An adhesive mixture is applied to the top row of blocks, onto which the U-blocks are installed with the hollow side facing up.
2. Additional thermal insulation of the outer side of the wall is carried out by laying polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam or stone wool into the internal cavity.
3. A connected metal frame is laid, similar to the formwork method.
4. The concrete mixture is poured and compacted.

When installing an armored belt in this way, there is no need to install and dismantle the formwork, which has a positive effect on the speed of work. However, the cost of U-shaped blocks is much higher than that of wooden panels. Also here you will need to saw aerated concrete material for formwork.

Combined method

On the outside of the wall, blocks 150 mm thick are laid on glue. And with inside Formwork is constructed from wooden panels or OSB boards (pictured below), as in the first method.

Insulation

After installation of the formwork it is necessary to carry out insulation of the future seismic belt(unless comprehensive insulation of the house is provided on the outside of the walls). Insulation work is carried out using various thermal insulation materials:

For the Moscow region, an insulation thickness of 50 mm is sufficient. It must be cut into strips of size equal to the height of the armored belt. And install it inside the formwork from the side of the outer wall with the material tightly adjacent to each other. There is no need to fasten the insulation, since it will subsequently be pressed using the poured solution.

Reinforcement

The frame is made of four or more longitudinally located rods with a diameter of 10-14 mm (determined by the project). In cross section it should be square or rectangular in shape. The transverse reinforcement is attached to the main part of the frame using steel wire with a diameter of 6-8 mm, and is located in increments of 40-50 mm. The distance from the edge of the armored belt to the reinforcement is determined depending on the operating conditions of the building (values ​​can be found in the normative documentation for reinforced concrete). The finished frame is placed in formwork and filled with concrete mixture.

There, buy mortgages and metal corners to strengthen the opening of the front door of your home.

izbloka.com

Armobelt for the walls of a house made of aerated concrete

Often inexperienced, novice builders do not even know why they should pour on the walls of a one-story house reinforced concrete belt. And the need for its device lies in the following reasons:

Armored belt sizes

Monolithic is poured around the perimeter of the entire building, and its dimensions are tied to the width of the external and internal walls.

The height can be filled at the top level of the aerated block or lower, but it is not recommended to raise it above 300 mm - it will be easy unjustified waste of material and increasing the load on the walls of the house.

The width of the armored belt for aerated concrete is made according to the width of the wall, but it may be a little narrower.

Concrete belt reinforcement

For reinforcement, metal or fiberglass reinforcement is used. Usually its cross-section does not exceed 12 mm. Most often, the reinforcement cage consists of four long rods that laid along the wall of the house. From these, using brackets from reinforcement of a smaller cross-section, a square or rectangular frame is formed. Long reinforcing bars, every 300 - 600 mm, are attached to the brackets with tying wire. It is not recommended to use welding to connect them in the frame because the metal at the point of penetration is weakened, and at the same time, corrosion may occur at this point.

The frame should not be allowed to come into contact with aerated concrete blocks. To do this, special plastic pads with a height of about 30 mm are placed under it. As a last resort, you can place separate pebbles of crushed stone.

Attention. To properly make a frame for a reinforced belt, it is recommended to use reinforcement only with a ribbed surface, which ensures rigid adhesion to concrete.

When can you do without an armored belt?

Pouring a reinforced belt to strengthen walls does not always make sense. Therefore, in order not to spend extra capital on purchasing materials, you should know in what cases you can do without a reinforced concrete belt:

• The foundation is located on solid rock.
• The walls of the house are built of brick.

It is also not necessary to pour a concrete belt over aerated concrete blocks if a wooden floor will rest on them. To unload the floor, under the load-bearing floor beams, it will be enough to pour concrete into small supporting concrete platforms about 60 mm thick.

In other cases, when construction is carried out on peat bogs, clay, and other weak soils, it is necessary to make an armored belt. It is especially impossible to do without it when constructing walls made of aerated concrete, expanded clay and other large-cell blocks, which are fragile materials.

Gas blocks are practically incapable carry point loads and become covered with cracks at the slightest subsidence of the foundation or when the soil moves.

How to fill an armored belt with concrete correctly

When filling, the following rules must be observed:

1. Concrete placement must be completed in one continuous duty cycle. For a high-quality reinforced concrete belt, partially dried layers of concrete mass are unacceptable.
2. Air bubbles should not be allowed to remain in the concrete mass, which form pores and thereby reduce the strength of hardened concrete.

To prevent this from happening, freshly poured concrete must be compacted using an internal vibrator or a special attachment using a hammer drill. In extreme cases, it can be compacted with a tamper or a metal pin.

Types of belts and their functions

Reinforced concrete belts are poured to strengthen structures such as:

Sometimes when constructing small outbuildings it is used reinforced brick belt on aerated concrete walls. To do this, 4 or 5 rows of building bricks are laid out on the walls, covering their entire width. Between the rows, in an armored belt made of bricks on walls made of aerated concrete, during the work process, a metal mesh welded from wire 4 - 5 mm thick with cells of 30 - 40 mm is laid on the mortar. Floor beams or a wooden Mauerlat can be placed on top to secure the roof.

Reinforced armored belt on aerated concrete

For a reinforced belt, which is poured over aerated concrete blocks, it is used concrete mortar grade M 200. Load-bearing reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm is fastened in a frame with transverse square or rectangular clamps using knitting wire. Clamps are made from smooth reinforcement with a diameter of no more than 4-6 mm. The supporting reinforcement is overlapped with each other with an overlap of at least 150 mm and tied together with soft knitting wire.

The belt can be made without a three-dimensional frame of 4 reinforcing bars. Sometimes a flat frame of two rods is sufficient, which is assembled in almost the same way as a volumetric one. Only in this case, for transverse ligation, not clamps are used, but individual reinforcing bars.

The connected frame can be laid in wooden formwork, which is made from boards. You can also use aerated concrete blocks of the top row as formwork. But first you need to cut them out inner part, so that the block turns out to be something like a box without end walls. The blocks are stacked with the resulting shelves up, after which the frame is laid in them.

When laying the frame, you need to make sure that there is a small space of about 20 - 30 mm between the reinforcement and the formwork walls, as well as the lower blocks.

After bookmarking in reinforcement cage formwork, you can additionally make and attach to it the necessary embedded parts that will be needed to secure the Mauerlat or other elements from the house structure.

A separate reinforced belt is not made for a monolithic floor slab. The slab itself distributes almost all vertical loads evenly onto the walls, and at the same time it is the main stiffening rib for the house and connects almost all the walls of the building with each other, combining them into one spatial structure.

It would be ideal if it takes up the entire width of the wall. But this is usually done if on the facade side insulation will be installed, blocking the cold bridge that can form through concrete. But in the case where only plaster finishing is expected on the outside, its thickness will need to be reduced within 40 - 50 mm to lay foam plastic or other insulation.

To insulate the belt, you can also use thin (100 mm) partition blocks, which are installed and temporarily secured along the edge of the wall. A frame is laid between them and everything is filled with concrete. In this case, the partition blocks play the role of formwork and at the same time insulation.

Reinforced belt for wooden Mauerlat

Since aerated concrete blocks have a fragile porous structure, it will not be possible to firmly attach the roof truss system to them. Under the influence of wind, the fastenings will simply become loose over time and the roof may become deformed. And with a strong gusty wind, it can simply be blown away.

In addition, when the roof is loosened, when its fasteners are weakened, the upper rows of block masonry will also collapse over time. Therefore, a reinforced concrete belt is simply necessary for a strong connection between the roof and walls made of aerated concrete blocks.

The reinforced belt for mounting the Mauerlat can be smaller in width than its counterparts for the ceiling and foundation, since the vertical load on it is minimal. Therefore, to reinforce it, often to save money, a frame with two reinforcing bars is used.

To securely fasten the Mauerlat in the belt, even before pouring it, vertical anchors are installed bolts with external thread , which together with the frame are filled with concrete. In this case, the thread rises above the concrete by approximately 200 - 250 mm.

To firmly fix the Mauerlat, through holes are drilled in it, through which it is placed on the anchors, after which it is firmly pressed to the concrete with nuts.

Eventually— a properly made reinforced concrete belt can provide a house built from aerated concrete blocks with high strength and durable operation. At the same time, it will be able to protect walls from deformation and cracks, maintain the strength of the roof and extend the service life of the house by 3-4 times.

remontoni.guru

This node is an alternative solution to node 2.0 for supporting brick wall cladding. In it, the cladding is placed not on the foundation, but on a heat-insulated ledge of a monolithic belt. Let's look at this node using the example of a house with a basement:

Rice. 1. Normal of the basement wall and the outer wall with brick cladding.

This node is discussed in more detail in Fig. 2. The “step” made of insulation is made to reduce the eccentricity of the load from the cladding, as well as the protrusion of the cladding relative to the base.

Rice. 2. Supporting unit for the cladding masonry.

In plan, the monolithic belt is made as follows:

Rice. 3. Monolithic belt, top view.

It can be seen that the belt consists of two parts: a main width of 350 mm, on which the wall and floor slabs are mounted, as well as a cantilever belt 100 mm wide, on which the cladding is mounted. The cladding belt is insulated from the main one with 100 mm thick EPS inlays and connected to it by isthmuses 100 mm wide, which act as short cantilever beams on which the cladding belt is supported.
And a 3D view of this solution:

Rice. 4. 3D view of the node.

As befits beams, the isthmuses are reinforced in the upper and lower zones with 10A500S rods. For reliable anchoring in the body of the cladding belt and in the main belt, the reinforcement is made in the form of a bracket with bent ends, which also serves as a clamp. To reduce the likelihood of inclined cracks, an 8A500S rod was added with an anchoring hook for the longitudinal reinforcement of the cladding belt (replacement for clamps). It can also be made from 8A240 reinforcement, if A500C of this diameter cannot be found. Another option is to replace it with two rods of a similar profile from BP 2 5mm, they are then placed on both sides of 10A500S.

Below is the calculation of reinforcement in Robot for a belt load of 1.4 t/m with isthmuses 100x200 mm with a pitch of 600 mm. Before making the calculation, let's understand the geometry of the node. Let's look at the node in detail:

Rice. 4a. Rear view of the isthmus is enlarged. The finishing and insulation are hidden.

The location of the insulation in the unit was not chosen by chance, but in such a way as to reduce the cantilever overhang of the belt. Let's look at the cut:

Rice. 4b. Section of the node along the isthmus.

The section shows that the distance from the wall on which the belt rests to the center of the cladding is 100 mm. Uniform distribution of the load from the cladding across the entire width allows it to be specified as a concentrated load in the center (case 1). But to be sure, we will also consider the worst case, when the entire mass of the cladding falls on the edge of the console, and even taking into account the protrusion of the brick (blue line and case 2).

The calculation model in Robote will look like a rigidly clamped beam 100x200 mm long 560 mm made of B15 concrete with a cantilever overhang of 160 mm. And two cases of applying force:

Rice. 4c. Calculation with central application of force.

Rice. 4g. Calculation when applying force to the extreme point of the console.

When calculating, a load of 8.5 kN was taken on each beam. The reinforcement was provided with two 10A500S bars at the top and bottom. The program checks the bending moments of several sections (bar/position) and determines the required reinforcement area in cm2 (red arrow in Fig. 4c), as well as the required % reinforcement of the section according to the calculation. The green arrow shows the actually accepted % of reinforcement. It can be seen that in the worst case (Fig. 4d) the reinforcement margin is large. The zeros in the red callouts indicate the deformation of the beam under load (there is none).

This reinforcement allows you to support a ceramic brick cladding with a height of 5-6 meters on the belt.

The solution was seen in “large” house construction, for example, in the Manual for the Design of Monolithic Houses the following unit is proposed for supporting the external brick cladding:

Rice. 5. Solution from monolithic housing construction.


Rice. 6. Fragments of the solution.

Rice. 7. With lower loads from the cladding, the ratio of the width of the thermal liner to the isthmus increases.

Rice. 8. Reinforcement option in “large” housing construction.

Rice. 9. Purlin unit from the article by Orlovich and Derkach.

Despite the presence of cold bridges in the form of isthmuses, this solution is quite effective in terms of thermal insulation:

Rice. 10. Heat map of node operation.

To simulate the operation of cold bridges in the 2-dimensional Elcut program, the isthmuses were reduced to an equivalent solid bridge (shown in Fig. 10 by an arrow).

This node is executed similarly for MZLF.

m-project33.ru

Armobelt using the example of a house or extension made of aerated concrete

Due to probable changes in the soil and the internal structure of the building, walls in different areas of the house may receive different levels of loads, causing compression and torsion of the material. If the load reaches critical values, cracks form.

For low one-story houses, the foundation can serve as an armored belt quite well. But with a significant height of the walls (two or more floors), critical loads are created in the upper part, for the even redistribution of which a special additional design– concrete belt with metal reinforcement. Its presence increases wind protection for the walls of the house and the bursting loads from the mass of the upper floor and roof.

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

The functions of the armored belt under the Mauerlat are the same - ensuring the strength and reliability of the wall structure. Design features in its size. As a rule, the minimum cross-section is 250 x 250 mm, and the height should not be greater than the width of the wall. The main requirement is continuity of the structure and equal strength along the entire perimeter of the walls of the house: at a minimum, the armored belt must be monolithic. In order to achieve continuity, it is recommended to use concrete of the same grade (at least M250) for pouring.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the armored belt

The diameter of the studs should be 10-14 mm. Cross members must be welded at the base.

When using raw concrete to fill the armored belt under the Mauerlat, care should be taken to place the studs in advance:

• they should be rolled in advance to the reinforcement cage placed inside the concrete;
• the distance between the studs must be the same;
• to prevent concrete from contaminating the threads in the outer part of the studs, they must be covered with cellophane and wrapped with wire;
• that part of the studs that will be inside the concrete should be protected from corrosion - paint is quite suitable for this (oil-based or nitro-based - it doesn’t matter, you can also use primer).

The outer part (length) of the studs must be sufficient so that, in addition to the Mauerlat itself, two nuts and a washer can be screwed to them. Ideally, the places where the Mauerlat is attached to the armored belt should be located as accurately as possible in the middle between the rafter structures. At the very least, the rafter legs should not coincide with the studs, otherwise you will get additional problems when installing the roof, so you should pay attention to the accuracy of marking and installation in advance.

The presence of heavy floor slabs creates increased loads on the walls. To prevent wall materials from deforming under their weight, an armored belt is used at the height of the junction of floors. Such a reinforced concrete strip must be constructed under all floors along the entire perimeter of the house. The distance from the slabs to the reinforced belt should not exceed the width of one or two bricks when constructing brick buildings and other objects made of stone materials or with slag-filled walls (ideally 10-15 cm).

Brick armored belt (video)

A brick reinforced belt is a regular brickwork reinforced with reinforcing mesh. Sometimes, to enhance strength, bricks are placed not horizontally, but vertically on the ends. However, many craftsmen recommend making a brick armored belt only in conjunction with full reinforcement of the wall with a reinforced concrete belt.

Formwork for armored belt

To install the formwork, which is mandatory when pouring a concrete armored belt, you can use:

• factory structures (offered for rent by many construction companies);
• polystyrene (fine porosity foam);
• prefabricated panel formwork made of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.

Considering that the filling of the reinforced belt must be uniform and carried out simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the structure of the walls of the house, the formwork must also be installed in advance throughout the entire facility.

Armobelt under the roof

The functions of the armored roof belt can be formulated in the following points:

• ensuring strict geometry of the building box during shrinkage of the wall structure due to seasonal changes in the soil;
• rigidity and stability of the building;
• dispersal and uniform distribution of loads from the roof onto the frame of the house.

The armored belt under the roof also performs the function of providing the possibility of firmly fastening the mauelat and rafter system, installing a ceiling (including reinforced concrete slabs) between the upper floor and the attic of the house.

Fittings for armored belt

The reinforcing mesh (frame) for the reinforced belt is necessary to strengthen and give greater strength to the concrete structure. May have a square go rectangular shape by section. Consists of four working longitudinal rods and intermediate jumpers.

To fasten the reinforcement together, electric welding or binding wire is used. Optimal diameter reinforcement – ​​10-12 mm. To increase rigidity, a separate rod is placed inside the reinforcement frame. Longitudinal jumpers are fastened together every 200-400 mm. To stiffen the corners of the armored belt, an additional bent rod is inserted at a distance of approximately 1500 mm in each direction from the corner of the wall.

Composition of concrete for armored belt

As we said above, concrete grade M250 and higher is suitable for the armored belt. The structure must be poured continuously, so it is more advisable to order the delivery of the required quantity in advance using mixers at the nearest concrete plant.

Otherwise you will need:

• two concrete mixers;
• sand;
• cement (recommended at least grade M400);
• gravel or crushed stone;
• water.

Two concrete mixers will be needed to ensure continuity of pouring the armored belt with fresh concrete. A specialist in preparing the concrete mixture and a number of auxiliary workers will also be needed to load concrete mixers and carry the finished concrete to the installation site of the reinforced belt.

To a person who is far from construction, the phrase “monolithic belt” will seem incomprehensible. However, to control the construction own home or a cottage or when purchasing an apartment in a newly built building, it is necessary to have an understanding of what an armored belt for floor slabs is and how it is produced.

The installation of a reinforced concrete monolithic belt will significantly strengthen the structure of your house and help avoid the formation of cracks in the walls.

Structurally, a reinforced concrete or monolithic belt is a kind of continuous closed beam made of concrete reinforced with graded metal on the walls or foundation of a building under construction.

The reinforced concrete monolithic belt must be closed and in no case interrupted along the entire perimeter.

To construct a reinforced frame, construction reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm is used.

It is worth mentioning one more point. In the description, for ease of understanding, we will assume a rectangular building with external load-bearing walls. But if a wall or walls are designed inside the building on which there will be, then a foundation must be provided for such walls to reduce the load from the external load-bearing walls. Under slabs resting on such walls, a monolithic reinforced belt is also required. This will have a positive effect on strengthening the entire structure.

Before starting work, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the rules set out in the document SP 31-114-2004 “Rules for the design of residential and public buildings for construction in seismic areas.” The requirements set out in the set of rules will help you make more accurate calculations and understand the principle of construction.

Application of the belt

If aerated concrete and foam concrete blocks are used to lay the load-bearing walls of a house, then the installation of a monolithic reinforced belt is mandatory.

1. In the case of using lightweight blocks and materials for laying load-bearing walls that do not easily resist the load from the floors. For example, cinder blocks, foam concrete and aerated concrete blocks, natural shell rock and limestone. It is worth explaining that in walls made of these materials, under the influence of the load on the foundation from the floor slab unevenly distributed over the area of ​​the wall, deformation processes called crushing can begin. They can cause subsequent destruction of the masonry wall. There are special methods for determining the feasibility of installing a reinforced belt. They take into account the resistance characteristics of the material to various types of loads through special coefficients. However, the experience of building from lightweight blocks, especially from foam and slag concrete, shows that monolithic masonry from these materials is necessary for structural reasons.
2. When building on weak, subsiding soils, the installation of a belt is due to the danger of the building subsiding under the influence of factors unfavorable to the soil. For example, when wet under the influence of the load from the weight of the house, the soil will begin to deform. In this case, a continuous monolithic belt will be able to “keep” the wall and foundation from cracks and destruction. It is worth mentioning that the presence of a belt can help avoid wall destruction only up to certain deformation loads. Therefore, it is worthwhile to thoroughly study the properties of soils and evaluate the possibility of constructing a building, for example, near streams and rivers. If damage in the form of vertical cracks is visible in the walls of neighboring buildings, then a monolithic reinforced belt is required.
3. When constructing a building in a seismically dangerous region.

Structural objectives of the armored belt:

• the foundation and frame of the building are connected;
• uniform distribution of load around the entire perimeter on the walls and foundation;
• alignment of horizontal planes of load-bearing walls under the floor slab.

Materials and tools

Using a special ratchet wrench for tying reinforcement will help save a lot of time.

1. Special ratchet wrench for .
2. Corners to strengthen the frame.
3. Welding machine.
4. Concrete mixer (or mixer, or drill with a mixing attachment).
5. Scoop and regular shovels.
6. Bucket.
7. Cement, water, sand, crushed stone.
8. Board for formwork installation.
9. Nails, screws.
10. 12 mm steel reinforcement.
11. Wire for knitting.
12. Good quality polyurethane foam.

Step-by-step device technology

Board formwork

In order for wooden formwork to withstand the pressure of concrete poured into it, it must be securely fastened.

The foundation or wall is covered with formwork made of boards. The reinforced monolithic belt is usually arranged with a height of 30 cm, and its width is equal to the width of the masonry (taking into account the distance for the insulation, see below). The bottom part of the board (approximately 5 cm high) is attached to the outer and inner sides of the wall with self-tapping screws. Both parts of the formwork are fastened with transverse pins. The horizontality of the upper part of the formwork is controlled by the water level. It must be strictly horizontal. The assembled formwork is a kind of gutter over the building frame.

Reinforced frame

Due to its heavy weight, the reinforcement cage is installed directly on the wall. Typically, heavy floor slabs are not used for buildings made of light blocks, so it is enough to use two 12 mm reinforcement bars. From these, by means of fastening with a special wire for knitting reinforcement, steps of a ladder with crossbars are made approximately every half meter. In the corners of the building it is necessary to strengthen the “ladder” by welding special corners. The frame is also assembled for the foundation.

It should be taken into account that the distance from the edge of the formwork to the frame rods should be 50 mm on each side. That is, the width of the frame should be 100 mm less than the width of the wall.

For heavier floor slabs, four reinforcement bars are used, welded in the shape of a quadrangle. This design is used for armored belts under the foundation. When constructing such a frame, it is also necessary to take into account the dimensions that should be set back from the wall.

From below, the frame also needs to be raised from the wall by 50 mm. This can be done by placing pieces of timber, brick or any available material under the reinforcement structure.

There are recommendations from experienced builders for driving nails or pieces of reinforcement into the top row of masonry at certain distances in order to further “connect” the foundation and the reinforced belt. The need for this work remains at the discretion of the owner of the house.

Pouring a monolithic belt

A monolithic reinforced belt is poured with a 1:3 cement-sand mortar with the addition of crushed stone. That is, for 1 part cement 3 parts sifted sand. With constant stirring, add water, checking the mixture for fluidity. It should not be too liquid so that it does not flow out of the formwork. We perform continuous pouring, constantly “bayoneting” the concrete to compact it and prevent the formation of voids.

When preparing a solution for concreting an armored belt, use cement grade M-400.

To ensure continuity of the belt in the event of a need to stop work, it will be necessary to make a crossbar that only stops the process vertically. You can use a brick or block. When resuming work, remove the jumper and continue work, pouring plenty of water on the joint.

In good sunny weather it is approximately four days. Then the wall formwork or foundation is dismantled.

Insulation of armored belt

In conclusion, I would like to dwell on the issue of insulating the armored belt. This need disappears if, according to the design, the walls of the building are subject to insulation. Otherwise, the belt will act as a kind of conductor of cold, freezing in winter. This will lead to not very comfortable temperatures in the interior, and subsequently to dampness and mold on the walls. Therefore, it is recommended to insulate it.

To do this, when installing a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, it is worth taking into account the width of the proposed insulation and the support depth of the floor slab, which must be determined according to SNiP 2.08.01-85.

Thermal insulation should be done from the outside of the house to avoid mold on the walls.

For insulation, holes must be made every 2-3 cm and foamed with foam. Foaming occurs in two stages: first, every second hole, and after a day or two, when the foam hardens, the remaining holes are foamed. The costs of insulation are quite serious, but this procedure cannot be avoided.

You need to foam in parts. Those. first, foam each odd-numbered hole, wait a couple of days (or, according to the instructions for the foam, after hardening), then foam each even-numbered hole - this will allow you to foam efficiently and at the same time slightly reduce foam consumption. Subsequently, the cladding can be placed along the armored belt.

Armored belt or brickwork, which is better? Board formwork

A reinforced belt (reinforced belt) is a closed reinforced structure that follows the outline of the building walls and blocks their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid exposure to adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil settles, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

Main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening walls;

Types of reinforced belts

Grillage.

Grillage

Base armored belt

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will lead to

kupildoma.ru

Brick armored belt – PROBrick

A reinforced belt (reinforced belt) is a closed reinforced structure that follows the outline of the building walls and blocks their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid the formation of cracks from exposure to adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil subsidence, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

Brick armored belt- This is ordinary masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is simpler than pouring a full-fledged monolithic reinforced concrete belt with reinforcement. However, is this approach sufficient? Will such reinforced masonry replace a full-fledged armored belt? First, let's figure out what types of arm belts there are and what functions are assigned to them.

Main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening walls;
• ensures uniform distribution of loads;
• prevents the formation of cracks;
• promotes leveling of brickwork;
• maintaining the integrity of the structure during shrinkage of the house.

Types of reinforced belts

It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.

Grillage.

Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can connect the piles of columnar and pile foundations. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, the width is 70 - 120 cm. For production, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete should cover the reinforcement frame by 5 cm on each side.

Base armored belt

It is laid along the entire perimeter of the external walls. If the ceiling is slabs, it is recommended to do it on all load-bearing walls. The main function of the base reinforced belt is to distribute loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;

Interfloor (unloading) belt

It is constructed to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it absorbs and distributes the load of the entire structure. Placed on all load-bearing walls;

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

An armored belt under the Mauerlat performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fasten the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, rafter system, and levels the horizontal of the entire structure being erected. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. When creating a reinforcement frame, the studs are placed above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and corresponding holes are made in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete has hardened and gained strength, a Mauerlat is installed on the studs and secured with bolts.

When manufacturing armored belts, special requirements are placed on the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use cement grade no lower than M200. The concrete mixture is poured at once, which will allow it to harden evenly and set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically wetted.

Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?

So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will lead to the fact that some fragments and sections of the brickwork will experience increased pressure compared to the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction of the wall. Therefore, it would be right not to take risks and make full reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.

Read also:

www.kirpich.nnov.ru

Armobelt. What is it and how to do it

What is an armored belt?

A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then a reinforced concrete belt is needed.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. With a brick armored belt, everything is simple. Typically, masonry is made of solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With concrete monolithic armored belt the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set up the formwork. This can be either wooden formwork or “tray” or permanent formwork, if we are talking about an armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from a thin gas block on the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you lay 12 mm reinforcement, then when building it up, you need to overlap it by about 40 cm.

In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete.

If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use the universal recipe for the proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part 500 grade cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of our construction calculators to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the mix. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring.

The most frequently asked questions on the topic of reinforced belts.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on a block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow-core slabs and wooden floor beams (to prevent punching). Here the armored belt can be brick
• under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this same Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter, in cold weather?

Filling an armored belt in winter is a questionable task. However, if you really need to fill it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special anti-frost additives to concrete. Use as much as possible less water for mixing concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. IN minus temperature, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any construction supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

The armored belt freezes, what should I do?

If you or your workers forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then you will have to insulate it now. The armored belt is insulated from the outside.

Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?

Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.

Video on the topic of reinforced belt

o-remonte.com

DIY armor belt for a brick wall

Do-it-yourself armored belt for a wall made of aerated concrete or brick

During the process of building a house, at certain stages questions may arise such as: does it make sense to make a reinforced belt, how many similar belts should the structure have, how to make it correctly and what materials are best used for this?

An armored belt is a monolithic closed reinforced concrete strip that follows the contour of the walls.

List of items that are needed:

• concrete grade 200;
• rods;
• excavator;
• sand or granulated slag;
• fittings;
• wire.

What is an armored belt for and where is it installed?

Grillage is the upper part of a pile foundation that distributes the load onto the load-bearing elements of the building.

First of all, you need to understand what a reinforced belt is and why it needs to be made. The reinforced belt is a layer of reinforced concrete, which is located along all the external walls of the building completely along the entire perimeter. Its task is to increase the strength of load-bearing external walls made of aerated concrete or brick and maintain integrity during the process of soil subsidence. During construction, several such belts should be used.

The first reinforced belt is also called a grillage. In the process of its manufacture, it is necessary to pour concrete into a trench that was dug under

stroy-bloks.ru

How to make an armored belt - types of belts and methods of filling them (+ diagrams)

They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction devices used in the interior decoration of the house. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

Kinds

There are 4 types of armored belt:

• grillage;
• basement;
• interfloor;
• under the Mauerlat.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:

1. Fittings.
2. Cement.
3. Sand.
4. Crushed stone.
5. Wire for tying reinforcement.
6. Boards.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Brick.
9. Shovel.
10. Concrete mixer.
11. Crowbar/crowbar.
12. Welding machine.

To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.

Manufacturing of reinforcing mesh/frame

In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.

Laid frame in armored belt

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.

Formwork

Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.

To secure the formwork when pouring an interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach the wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and drive the screw.

The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.

Wooden formwork

The upper part of the formwork is also secured with quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.

After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.

Grillage

Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

Making a frame for a grillage

After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.

Strip foundation grillage

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. For this instead reinforcing mesh reinforcement cage should be used. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.

For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.

Base armored belt

Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along the external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.

Formwork for base armored belt

The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the plinth belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with a high level of groundwater.

Interfloor

An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Formwork for interfloor reinforced belt

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and facing bricks for external masonry. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and the facing brick should be laid on the outside in the same way as in the previous case.

Under the Mauerlat

The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.

After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.

Mounting the Mauerlat

When constructing a monolithic armored belt, the rules for fastening the Mauerlat must be observed. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Through holes must be made in the beam equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. So, you will get a reliable fastening, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation of a roof of any configuration.

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks are inferior to brick in strength. If when installing an armored belt on brick walls it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth noting immediately that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.

If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Do you have personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

Video

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video:

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

Do-it-yourself reinforced belt for Mauerlat and floor slabs

Table of contents:

1. Why do you need an armored belt?
2. Fastening formwork and reinforcement frame
3. Armopoys of a brick house

The armored belt protects the house from deforming loads. It is especially required for buildings that are built from porous materials. For example, brick, foam and gas blocks. The house is under such pressure that the masonry can break and “crawl” under the influence of internal forces. It is also exposed to external factors. Unloading belts are installed at different levels of the building. For example, foundation, basement, between floors, as well as an armored belt under the Mauerlat, which takes on the weight of the roof. What kind of reinforcing structures are required depends on the material of the walls and the load to which they will be subjected.

Why do you need an armored belt?

Difficult soils lead to uneven shrinkage of the building. In addition, wind loads and temperature changes lead over time to distortion of the structure and its destruction. All this requires strengthening the load-bearing walls. Also important reason is the use of materials of different hardness. For example, interfloor reinforced concrete slabs are placed on aerated concrete walls, but reliable fastening directly to the blocks is impossible.

In such cases, an armored belt must be installed under the floor slabs, which is located on the line of their support on the facade. Likewise, the roofing pie cannot be mounted directly on the blocks. A heavy roof will press down and sideways on them, which will eventually lead to cracks. The fact is that the blocks tolerate a uniform rather than a point load well, therefore, when installing a beam for the upper trim, it is necessary to install a distribution belt.

It is laid on the top row of blocks and combines the roof and facade into a single strong structure. Thus, the load from roofing system takes on an armored belt under the Mauerlat, which becomes a kind of intermediary between the blocks and the timber for attaching the rafters. In addition to this type of reinforced concrete belts, a foundation reinforcing system is installed (inside the foundation itself) and a basement reinforcement system, which is located on the foundation (usually on a strip foundation).

Important: a house made of aerated concrete blocks must be reinforced between floors before laying floor slabs and after erecting the top floor before installing the roof.

How does the armored belt work?

The structure is located along the perimeter of the building without interruption. It is a monolith running along the contour of the walls. Its device is similar to strip foundation, but it is supported by the erected walls of the facade and internal load-bearing partitions. In low-rise construction, you can make an armored belt with your own hands, provided that ready-made concrete is delivered to the top. It is also necessary to ensure that the entire structure is filled with it quickly so that it does not begin to harden unevenly.

How to make a reinforcing belt correctly?

Work begins after the mortar or adhesive for laying the wall material has hardened. It should be noted that for gas blocks it is better to use a special glue that can be used to make a 3 mm thick seam without losing the quality characteristics of the facade. The technology used to lay the armored belt for aerated concrete differs in the design of the formwork. For it, wooden boards (standard option) or special U-blocks of the D500 brand are used. The second method is more preferable.

The blocks are permanent formwork with good heat saving parameters. This means that concrete will not turn into one large cold bridge and will not require additional insulation. For removable wooden formwork, use panels made of 2 cm thick boards, which are pre-assembled on the ground.

How to securely attach the formwork?

An important point is the fastening of removable formwork. It is stitched through with reinforcement, and then iron knobs are welded to the rods from the outside. Also, the shields are tied together with wire and knocked down with boards, placing them on top. Reliable installation of formwork is important if the solution will be supplied through a pressure hose from a cement truck. If you do it yourself, you lift the cement with buckets. In this case, there is less risk that the formwork will break under the pressure of concrete.

Rebar frame

After installing the formwork, a frame is made from longitudinal rods d = 12 mm in an amount of at least 3 lines. For crossbars, use rods of the same thickness if they are constructing an armored belt for floor slabs between floors. But if it is installed under the Mauerlat, the reinforcement can be taken thinner (8-10 mm). The intersection points are knitted with wire. It should be noted that it is necessary to make 2 contours of the frame from rods.

Concrete is prepared according to the formula:

• sand 2.8 parts,
• cement 1 part,
• crushed stone 4.8 parts.

This ratio of ingredients allows you to obtain concrete grade M400. After pouring the solution, any remaining air bubbles in the mixture should be eliminated. To do this, use a construction vibrator or hit the concrete with a rod, pierce the still liquid mass to allow air to escape.

How to properly attach the Mauerlat?

It should be said that the monolithic device of the armored belt requires compliance with the rules for fastening the Mauerlat. Even during the installation of the frame, vertical sections of reinforcement are removed from it to the design height. They should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Threads are cut at the ends of these sections, and through holes of the same diameter are made in the timber in appropriate places. Thus, a reliable fastening is created that corresponds to a bolt and nut tie, which will allow you to reliably install a roof with any design features.

Armopoys of a brick house

For brick walls, you can make a simplified version of reinforcement with reinforcement. Instead of a monolithic one, an armored belt is made of bricks directly during laying. Depending on the load, the façade and internal load-bearing walls are reinforced with reinforcement or a special mesh. This is done every 4 rows. In this case, there is no need to install formwork, since the rods are laid directly on the brick during the construction of the row. If you take a mesh, its thickness should be from 5 mm.

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Is armored belt needed for floors or not?

The question is whether you need an armored belt or not if you are building a house from blocks, I was puzzled by this question when I came across a video clip in which someone was building a house from large-format ceramic blocks and under the floor slabs he began laying bricks from ordinary solid bricks, raised them into two rows and onto them laid the slabs. His main argument for constructing an armored belt was that he was not confident in the strength of the Porotherm block. I became interested and turned to the documentation of the manufacturer of the Porotherm block. From these documents it turned out that from 44 it is possible to build buildings up to the 8th floor and no installation of reinforcing belts under the floors is required. I didn’t stop there and decided to search the Internet for photos and videos of houses made from large-format blocks.

My searches were successful and I found a video and photo in which a block was breaking off under hollow-core floor slabs, the block was destroyed along its entire height or from the top to a depth of 2cm to 5cm, this undoubtedly alarmed me, and I assumed that this was happening in places greatest tension. In practice, as soon as a crack appears on the block, it usually occurs when a targeted impact is applied to it, which is why when laying blocks of warm ceramics you need to use soft rubber mallets. It immediately became clear that when laying the slabs, large pebbles could get into the mortar and when the slab was lowered, they had a point effect on the block, which led to its destruction. Having understood what was happening with the block, I decided that there was no need to make a massive armored belt, which would also be a completely unnecessary cold bridge. It is clear that it is enough to first make a screed, and not for the entire thickness of the wall, but only to the depth of support of the floor slab and a thickness of 10mm-15mm. This is also convenient because the screed can be made to be level and the slabs will be easier and more evenly placed relative to each other. When laying the slab, there is a high probability that the mortar will fall into the honeycombs of the block and the slab will not lie flat; the screed will prevent the mortar from falling into the block.

In addition, in order to document whether an armored belt is needed for the floors for porotherms or not, I will provide drawings of design solutions for the installation of floors from hollow core slabs and monolithic floors of different thicknesses for walls made of Porotherm 38, 44, 51, the solution for monolithic floors can also be used for the installation of floors from PNO slabs. The manufacturer Porotem ordered structural calculations from the Scientific Research Institute of Building Structures; structural calculations were carried out for 6, 7-story buildings made of Porotherm. I would like to make just a few of my own comments on two nodes, namely, supporting the slab on the masonry mesh directly through the mortar, the result can be squeezing the mortar out and into the block, resulting in the slab lying not on the mortar, but on the mesh, this is not very good for the block because the load on the block from the slab will not be evenly distributed and the noise from the ceiling will be more strongly transmitted to the wall. The second point is the use of facing bricks to compensate for the height in 160mm thick floors; it is better to replace it with solid bricks.

There is one very important point for floors, which must be taken into account at the design stage, the maximum and nominal length of the floor, which was calculated by one construction institute which was tasked with calculating the load-bearing capacities of the ceramic porotherm block and preparing technical and structural solutions for the installation of certain components of the building structure. Calculations have shown that the length of the floor span is limited and is nominally 6 meters, with a maximum of 7 meters.