How to make a solar battery yourself: step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself solar power plant Solar panel assembly diagram

There is probably no person who would not like to become more independent. Possibility of complete control own time, traveling without knowing borders and distances, not thinking about housing and financial problems - this is what gives you a feeling of real freedom. Today we will talk about how, using solar radiation, you can relieve yourself of the burden of energy dependence. As you guessed, we will talk about solar powered. And to be more precise, about whether it is possible to build a real solar power plant with your own hands.

History of creation and prospects for use

Humanity has been nurturing the idea of ​​converting solar energy into electricity for a long time. Solar thermal installations were the first to appear, in which steam superheated by concentrated solar rays rotated generator turbines. Direct conversion became possible only in the mid-19th century, after the Frenchman Alexandre Edmond Baccarelle discovered the photoelectric effect. Attempts to create an operating solar cell based on this phenomenon were crowned with success only half a century later, in the laboratory of the outstanding Russian scientist Alexander Stoletov. It was possible to fully describe the mechanism of the photoelectric effect even later - humanity owes this to Albert Einstein. By the way, it was for this work that he received the Nobel Prize.

Baccarelle, Stoletov and Einstein are the scientists who laid the foundation of modern solar energy

The creation of the first solar photocell based on crystalline silicon was announced to the world by employees of Bell Laboratories back in April 1954. This date, in fact, is the starting point of technology, which will soon be able to become a full-fledged replacement for hydrocarbon fuel.

Since the current of one photovoltaic cell is milliamps, to generate electricity of sufficient power they have to be connected in modular structures. Arrays of solar photocells protected from external influences are a solar battery (due to its flat shape, the device is often called a solar panel).

Conversion solar radiation in electricity has enormous prospects, because for every square meter of the earth's surface there is an average of 4.2 kW/hour of energy per day, and this saves almost one barrel of oil per year. Initially used only for the space industry, the technology became so commonplace already in the 80s of the last century that photocells began to be used for domestic purposes - as a power source for calculators, cameras, lamps, etc. At the same time, “serious” solar-electric installations were created. Attached to the roofs of houses, they made it possible to completely abandon wired electricity. Today we can observe the birth of power plants, which are multi-kilometer fields of silicon panels. The power they generate can power entire cities, so we can say with confidence that the future lies with solar energy.

Modern solar power plants are multi-kilometer fields of photocells capable of supplying electricity to tens of thousands of homes.

Solar battery: how it works

After Einstein described the photoelectric effect, the whole simplicity of such a seemingly complex physical phenomenon was revealed to the world. It is based on a substance whose individual atoms are in an unstable state. When “bombarded” by photons of light, electrons are knocked out of their orbits - these are the sources of current.

For almost half a century, the photoelectric effect had no practical application for one simple reason - there was no technology for producing materials with an unstable atomic structure. Prospects for further research appeared only with the discovery of semiconductors. The atoms of these materials either have an excess of electrons (n-conductivity) or lack them (p-conductivity). When using a two-layer structure with an n-type (cathode) and a p-type (anode) layer, the bombardment of light photons knocks electrons out of the n-layer atoms. Leaving their places, they rush into the free orbits of the atoms of the p-layer and then, through the connected load, return to their original positions. Probably each of you knows that the movement of electrons in closed loop represents an electric current. But it is possible to force electrons to move not thanks to a magnetic field, as in electric generators, but due to the flow of particles from solar radiation.

The solar panel works thanks to the photoelectric effect, which was discovered at the beginning of the 19th century.

Since the power of one photovoltaic module is not enough to power electronic devices, then to obtain the required voltage, a series connection of many cells is used. As for the current strength, it is increased by parallel connection of a certain number of such assemblies.

The generation of electricity in semiconductors directly depends on the amount of solar energy, so photocells are not only installed in the open air, but they also try to orient their surface perpendicular to the incident rays. And in order to protect the cells from mechanical damage and atmospheric influences, they are mounted on a rigid base and protected with glass on top.

Classification and features of modern photocells

The first solar cell was made based on selenium (Se), but the low efficiency (less than 1%), rapid aging and high chemical activity of selenium solar cells forced the search for other, cheaper and more efficient materials. And they were found in the form of crystalline silicon (Si). Since this element periodic table is a dielectric; its conductivity is ensured by inclusions of various rare earth metals. Depending on the manufacturing technology, there are several types of silicon photocells:

• monocrystalline;
• polycrystalline;
• from amorphous Si.

The first ones are made by cutting off the thinnest layers from silicon ingots of the highest purity. Externally, monocrystalline photocells look like single-color dark blue glass plates with a pronounced electrode grid. Their efficiency reaches 19%, and their service life is up to 50 years. And although the performance of panels made on the basis of monocrystals is gradually falling, there is evidence that batteries manufactured more than 40 years ago remain operational today, delivering up to 80% of their original power.

Monocrystalline solar cells have a uniform dark color and cut corners - these signs do not allow them to be confused with other photocells

In the production of polycrystalline solar cells, less pure, but cheaper silicon is used. The simplification of technology affects the appearance of the plates - they do not have a uniform shade, but a lighter pattern, which is formed by the boundaries of many crystals. The efficiency of such solar cells is slightly lower than that of monocrystalline ones - no more than 15%, and the service life is up to 25 years. It must be said that the decrease in basic operational indicators had absolutely no effect on the popularity of polycrystalline solar cells. They benefit from a lower price and less dependence on external pollution, low clouds and orientation to the Sun.

Polycrystalline solar cells have a lighter blue tint and a non-uniform pattern - a consequence of the fact that their structure consists of many crystals

For solar cells made from amorphous Si, it is not a crystalline structure that is used, but a very thin layer of silicon, which is sprayed onto glass or polymer. Although this production method is the cheapest, such panels have the shortest lifespan, which is caused by fading and degradation of the amorphous layer in the sun. This type of photocells is also not pleased with its performance - their efficiency is no more than 9% and during operation it decreases significantly. The use of solar panels made of amorphous silicon is justified in deserts - high solar activity offsets the drop in productivity, and the vast expanses allow the placement of solar power plants of any size.

The ability to sputter a silicon structure onto any surface makes it possible to create flexible solar panels

Further development of photovoltaic cell production technology is driven by the need to reduce prices and improve performance characteristics. Film photocells today have the highest performance and durability:

• based on cadmium telluride;
• from thin polymers;
• using indium and copper selenide.

It is too early to talk about the possibility of using thin-film photocells in homemade devices. Today, only a few of the most technologically “advanced” companies are engaged in their production, so most often flexible solar cells can be seen as part of finished solar panels.

What are the best photovoltaic cells for a solar cell and where can you find them?

Homemade solar panels will always be one step behind their factory-made counterparts, and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, well-known manufacturers carefully select photocells, eliminating cells with unstable or reduced parameters. Secondly, in the manufacture of solar electric batteries, special glass with increased light transmission and reduced reflectivity is used - it is almost impossible to find this on sale. And thirdly, before starting serial production, all parameters of industrial designs are tested using mathematical models. As a result, the effect of cell heating on the battery efficiency is minimized, the heat removal system is improved, the optimal cross-section of connecting busbars is found, ways to reduce the degradation rate of photocells are explored, etc. It is impossible to solve such problems without an equipped laboratory and appropriate qualifications.

The low cost of homemade solar panels makes it possible to build an installation that allows you to completely abandon the services of energy companies

Nevertheless, self-made solar panels show good performance results and are not so far behind their industrial counterparts. As for the price, here we have a gain of more than twice, that is, at the same cost, homemade products will provide twice as much electricity.

Taking into account all of the above, a picture emerges of which solar cells are suitable for our conditions. Film ones are no longer available due to their lack of availability on sale, and amorphous ones due to their short service life and low efficiency. What remains are cells made of crystalline silicon. It must be said that in the first home-made device it is better to use cheaper “polycrystals”. And only after testing the technology and getting the hang of it, you should switch to monocrystalline cells.

Cheap, substandard solar cells are suitable for testing technologies - just like high-quality devices, they can be bought on foreign trading platforms

As for the question of where to get inexpensive solar cells, they can be found on foreign trading platforms such as Taobao, Ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon, etc. There they are sold both in the form of individual solar cells of various sizes and performance, and in ready-made kits for assembling solar panels any power.

Sellers often offer so-called class “B” solar cells, which are damaged mono- or polycrystalline solar cells. Small chips, cracks or missing corners have virtually no effect on the performance of the cells, but allow you to purchase them at a much lower cost. It is for this reason that they are most profitable to use in homemade solar energy devices.

Is it possible to replace photovoltaic plates with something else?

Rarely does anyone home handyman there is no treasured box with old radio components. But diodes and transistors from old receivers and televisions are still the same semiconductors with p-n junctions, which, when illuminated, sunlight generate current. By taking advantage of these properties and connecting several semiconductor devices, you can make a real solar battery.

To manufacture a low-power solar battery, you can use the old element base of semiconductor devices

An attentive reader will immediately ask what the catch is. Why pay for factory-made mono- or polycrystalline cells when you can use what is literally under your feet. As always, the devil is in the details. The fact is that the most powerful germanium transistors allow you to obtain a voltage of no more than 0.2 V in bright sunlight at a current measured in microamps. In order to achieve the parameters that a flat silicon solar cell produces, you will need several dozen, or even hundreds of semiconductors. A battery made from old radio components is only suitable for charging a camping LED flashlight or a small mobile phone battery. To implement larger-scale projects, you cannot do without purchased solar cells.

How much power can you expect from solar panels?

When thinking about building your own solar power plant, everyone dreams of completely abandoning wired electricity. In order to analyze the reality of this idea, we will do some small calculations.

Finding out your daily electricity consumption is easy. To do this, just look at the invoice sent by the energy supply organization and divide the number of kilowatts indicated there by the number of days in the month. For example, if you are offered to pay for 330 kWh, this means that daily consumption is 330/30 = 11 kWh.

Graph of solar battery power depending on illumination

In your calculations, you should definitely take into account the fact that the solar panel will generate electricity only during daylight hours, with up to 70% of the generation occurring between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. In addition, the efficiency of the device directly depends on the angle of incidence of sunlight and the state of the atmosphere.

Slight cloudiness or haze will reduce the efficiency of the solar installation's current output by 2–3 times, while a sky overcast by continuous clouds will cause a drop in performance by 15–20 times. Under ideal conditions, a solar battery with a capacity of 11/7 = 1.6 kW would be sufficient to generate 11 kWh of energy. Taking into account the influence of natural factors, this parameter should be increased by approximately 40–50%.

In addition, there is another factor that forces us to increase the area of ​​​​the photocells used. Firstly, we should not forget that the battery will not work at night, which means that powerful batteries will be needed. Secondly, to power household appliances you need a current of 220 V, so you will need a powerful voltage converter (inverter). Experts say that losses on the accumulation and transformation of electricity take up to 20–30% of its total amount. Therefore, the actual power of the solar battery should be increased by 60–80% of the calculated value. Taking an inefficiency value of 70%, we obtain the rated power of our solar panel equal to 1.6 + (1.6×0.7) = 2.7 kW.

The use of high-current assemblies lithium batteries is one of the most elegant, but by no means the cheapest way to store solar electricity

To store electricity, you will need low-voltage batteries designed for voltages of 12, 24 or 48 V. Their capacity must be designed for daily energy consumption plus transformation and conversion losses. In our case, we will need an array of batteries designed to store 11 + (11×0.3) = 14.3 kW×hour of energy. If you use regular 12-volt car batteries, you will need a 14300 Wh / 12 V = 1200 Ah assembly, that is, six batteries rated at 200 amp-hours each.

As you can see, even in order to provide electricity for the household needs of an average family, you will need a serious solar-electric installation. As for the use of homemade solar panels for heating, at this stage such an idea will not even reach the limits of self-sufficiency, not to mention the fact that something can be saved.

Battery size calculation

The size of the battery depends on the required power and the dimensions of the current sources. When choosing the latter, you will definitely pay attention to the variety of photocells offered. For use in homemade devices, it is most convenient to choose medium-sized solar cells. For example, polycrystalline panels measuring 3x6 inches are designed for an output voltage of 0.5 V and a current of up to 3 A.

When manufacturing a solar battery, they will be connected in series into blocks of 30 pieces, which will make it possible to obtain the voltage required for charging a car battery of 13–14 V (taking into account losses). The maximum power of one such unit is 15 V × 3 A = 45 W. Based on this value, it will not be difficult to calculate how many elements will be needed to build solar panel given power and determine its dimensions. For example, to build a 180-watt solar electric collector, you will need 120 photocells with a total area of ​​2160 square meters. inches (1.4 sq.m).

Building a homemade solar panel

Before you start manufacturing a solar panel, you should solve the problems of its placement, calculate the dimensions and prepare the necessary materials and tools.

Choosing the right installation location is important

Since the solar panel will be made by hand, its aspect ratio can be any. This is very convenient because homemade device can be more successfully integrated into the exterior of the roof or design suburban area. For the same reason, you should choose a place to install the battery before starting design activities, remembering to take into account several factors:

• openness of the place to sunlight during daylight hours;
• absence of shading buildings and tall trees;
• minimum distance to the room in which storage power and converters are installed.

Of course, a roof-mounted battery looks more organic, but placing the device on the ground has more advantages. In this case, the possibility of damage to roofing materials when installing the supporting frame is eliminated, the complexity of installing the device is reduced, and it becomes possible to timely change the “angle of attack of the sun’s rays.” And most importantly, with a lower placement it will be much easier to keep the surface of the solar panel clean. And this is a guarantee that the installation will work at full capacity.

Mounting a solar panel on a roof is driven more by space constraints than by necessity or ease of use.

What you will need during the work process

When starting to make a homemade solar panel, you should stock up on:

• photocells;
• stranded copper wire or special busbars for connecting solar cells;
• solder;
• Schottky diodes, designed for the current output of one photocell;
• high-quality anti-reflective glass or plexiglass;
• slats and plywood for making a frame;
• silicone sealant;
• hardware;
• paint and protective composition for processing wooden surfaces.

In the work you will need the simplest tool that a home-saving owner always has at hand - a soldering iron, a glass cutter, a saw, a screwdriver, paint brush and etc.

Manufacturing instructions

To make the first solar battery, it is best to use photocells with already soldered leads - in this case, the risk of damage to the cells during assembly is reduced. However, if you are skilled with a soldering iron, you can save some money by purchasing solar cells with open contacts. To build the panel we looked at in the examples above, you will need 120 plates. Using an aspect ratio of approximately 1:1, 15 rows of photocells of 8 each will be required. In this case, we will be able to connect every two “columns” in series, and connect four such blocks in parallel. This way you can avoid tangled wires and get a smooth, beautiful installation.

Electrical wiring diagram for home solar power plant

Frame

Assembling a solar panel should always begin with making the housing. To do this, we will need aluminum corners or wooden slats with a height of no more than 25 mm - in this case they will not cast a shadow on the outer rows of photocells. Based on the dimensions of our 3 x 6 inch (7.62 x 15.24 cm) silicon cells, the frame size should be at least 125 x 125 cm. If you decide to use a different aspect ratio (for example, 1:2), the frame can be further strengthened with a crossbar made of lath the same section.

The back side of the case should be covered with a plywood or OSB panel, and ventilation holes should be drilled in the lower end of the frame. The connection between the internal cavity of the panel and the atmosphere will be needed to equalize the humidity - otherwise, fogging of the glass cannot be avoided.

To make a solar panel housing, the simplest materials are suitable - wooden slats and plywood.

A panel of plexiglass or high-quality glass with a high degree of transparency is cut according to the external size of the frame. In extreme cases, window glass up to 4 mm thick can be used. For its fastening, corner brackets are prepared, in which drillings are made for fastening to the frame. When using plexiglass, you can make holes directly in the transparent panel - this will simplify assembly.

To protect wooden case solar battery from moisture and fungus, it is impregnated with an antibacterial composition and painted with oil paint.

For ease of assembly of the electrical part, a substrate is cut out of fiberboard or other dielectric material according to internal size frames In the future, photocells will be installed on it.

Soldering plates

Before you start soldering, you should “figure out” the placement of photocells. In our case, we will need 4 cell arrays of 30 plates each, and they will be located in fifteen rows in the case. Such a long chain will be inconvenient to work with, and the risk of damage to fragile glass plates increases. It would be rational to connect 5 parts each, and complete the final assembly after the photocells are mounted on the substrate.

For convenience, photocells can be mounted on a non-conductive substrate made of textolite, plexiglass or fiberboard

After connecting each chain, you should check its functionality. To do this, each assembly is placed under table lamp. By recording current and voltage values, you can not only monitor the performance of the modules, but also compare their parameters.

For soldering we use a low-power soldering iron (maximum 40 W) and good, low-melting solder. We apply it in small quantities to the lead parts of the plates, after which, observing the polarity of the connection, we connect the parts to each other.

When soldering photocells, extreme care should be taken, since these parts are highly fragile.

Having collected the individual chains, we turn them with their backs towards the substrate and glue them to the surface using silicone sealant. Each 15-volt photocell unit is equipped with a Schottky diode. This device allows current to flow only in one direction, so it will not allow the batteries to discharge when the solar panel voltage is low.

The final connection of the individual strings of photocells is carried out according to the electrical diagram presented above. For these purposes, you can use a special bus or stranded copper wire.

The hanging elements of the solar battery should be secured with hot-melt adhesive or self-tapping screws.

Panel assembly

The substrates with photocells located on them are placed in the housing and secured with self-tapping screws. If the frame is reinforced with a cross member, then several drillings are made in it for mounting wires. The cable that is brought out is securely fixed to the frame and soldered to the terminals of the assembly. To avoid confusion with polarity, it is best to use two-color wires, connecting the red terminal to the “plus” of the battery, and the blue one to its “minus”. A continuous layer of silicone sealant is applied along the upper contour of the frame, on top of which the glass is laid. After final fixation, the assembly of the solar battery is considered complete.

After the protective glass is installed on the sealant, the panel can be transported to the installation site

Installation and connection of a solar battery to consumers

For a number of reasons, a homemade solar panel is a rather fragile device, and therefore requires a reliable supporting frame. The ideal option would be a design that would allow the source of free electricity to be oriented in both planes, but the complexity of such a system is most often a strong argument in favor of a simple inclined system. It is a movable frame that can be set at any angle to the light. One of the options for a frame made of wooden beams is presented below. You can use metal corners, pipes, tires, etc. to make it - whatever you have at hand.

Solar battery frame drawing

To connect the solar panel to the batteries, you will need a charge controller. This device will monitor the state of charge and discharge of batteries, monitor current output and switch to mains power in the event of a significant voltage drop. A device of the required power and required functionality can be purchased at the same retail outlets where photocells are sold. As for powering household consumers, this will require transforming the low-voltage voltage into 220 V. Another device - an inverter - can successfully cope with this. It must be said that the domestic industry produces reliable devices with good performance characteristics, so the converter can be purchased locally - in this case, a “real” guarantee will be a bonus.

One solar battery will not be enough to fully power your home - you will also need batteries, a charge controller and an inverter

On sale you can find inverters of the same power, differing in price several times. This scatter is explained by the “purity” of the output voltage, which is a necessary condition for powering individual electrical devices. Converters with the so-called pure sine wave have a more complicated design, and as a result, a higher cost.

Video: making a solar panel with your own hands

Building a home solar power plant is a non-trivial task and requires both financial and time costs, as well as minimal knowledge of basic electrical engineering. When starting to assemble a solar panel, you should observe maximum attention and accuracy - only in this case can you count on good decision question. Finally, I would like to remind you that glass contamination is one of the factors affecting productivity. Remember to clean the surface of the solar panel in a timely manner, otherwise it will not be able to work at full capacity.

Soldering solar panels from individual photovoltaic cells and electrical installation of a home solar power plant - the experience of portal users.

We continue our topic on the construction of a home solar power plant. You can familiarize yourself with general information about the principles of calculation of solar panels, as well as for autonomous power supply systems by reading our previous articles. Today we will talk about the features self-made solar panels, the sequence of connecting electrical converters and the protective devices that should be included in the solar power plant.

Manufacturing of photovoltaic modules

A standard photovoltaic module (panel) consists of three main elements.

1. Panel body.
2. Frame.
3. Photovoltaic cells.

The simplest design element of a solar module is its housing. As a rule, its front side is an ordinary sheet of glass, the dimensions of which correspond to the number of solar cells.

Adoronkin User FORUMHOUSE

The glass I used was regular window glass – 3 mm (the most inexpensive). I conducted a test: glass degrades the performance of the module slightly, so I don’t see much point in using tempered or coated glass.

Window glass is often used to make protective housing for solar panels. If you doubt the strength of this material, then you can use tempered or regular glass, but thicker (5...6 mm). In this case, there is no doubt that the photovoltaic elements will be reliably protected from destructive natural disasters (from hail, for example).

The back side of the case can be made of moisture-resistant material, which will protect it from dust and moisture getting on the solar cells. This can be metal sheet, hermetically attached to the frame with rivets and silicone, or, again, ordinary glass.

At the same time, some craftsmen do not welcome the presence of a back wall on the body of a homemade solar panel.

Adoronkin

The back of the battery is open (for better cooling), but covered acrylic varnish mixed with clear sealant.

Considering that when the panels heat up, their power drops significantly, such a solution seems justified. After all, it provides effective cooling of semiconductor elements and at the same time high-quality sealing of solar cells. All together is guaranteed to extend the life of solar panels.

Frame

Frames for homemade solar panels are most often made from standard aluminum angles. It is better to use coated aluminum - anodized or painted. If you are tempted to make a frame from wood or plastic, be prepared for the fact that after a couple of years the product may dry out or even fall apart under the influence of climatic factors (with the exception of window plastic).

BOB691774 User FORUMHOUSE

I buy from where the windows are made. Price – 80 rub. per meter The profile is completely ready for work, you just need to cut it at 45° and under heat, glue the corners.

Let's consider the simplest panel option: a panel with an aluminum frame.

The aluminum frame parts are easily fastened together with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Subsequently, the aluminum corner can be special effort glue the glass body. All you need for this is regular silicone sealant.

Adoronkin

I took silicone sealant - universal. 1 tube is enough. It is better to take transparent sealant. The chemical safety of the sealant in relation to photovoltaic cells was confirmed by the annual operation of the battery.

The result will be a shallow box with a glass bottom, to which photovoltaic cells will subsequently be glued.

When determining the size of the housing and frame, one should take into account the need for a gap between adjacent photovoltaic cells, which is equal to 2...5 mm.

Soldering solar cells

The most critical stage in assembling solar modules is soldering the photovoltaic cells. Solar cells are made from very fragile material, therefore they require appropriate treatment. Those people who have already dealt with them will henceforth, when purchasing solar cells, order cells with a certain quantity reserve (10 - 15%). For example, to make a panel designed for 36 elements, they purchase 39 - 42 cells.

Thin busbars for soldering solar cells, thicker busbars (with the help of which adjacent rows of panels are combined with each other) and solar cells are best purchased from the same seller. This saves time searching for suitable elements and provides certain guarantees of their compatibility.

Soldering of elements in case of their serial connection is carried out according to the following scheme.

The negative (front) contact of the solar cell is soldered to the positive (back) contact of the next cell, and so on.

This is what the finished panel looks like.

For work you will need the following tools and materials:

• Powerful soldering iron 40-60 W (at least).
• Flux (flux marker) must be neutral (otherwise the soldered contacts will quickly oxidize).
• Tires of different widths.
• Rubber gloves - to avoid smearing the solar cells (especially their front part).

We also need tin. This is in case the busbar is poorly soldered to the contacts. The cells being worked with are located on a hard and flat surface. It could be a board or glass. To prevent cells from sliding around work surface table, they can be fixed using pieces of electrical tape glued around the perimeter of the element. You should not put electrical tape on the cell itself (especially on its front part). The free end of the shank should be attached to the table using double-sided tape.

Soldering of elements and assembly of panels is carried out in the following order: first of all, the contact groove of the plate along its entire length is coated with flux. Then the flat busbar is placed in the groove and soldered to the contact of the plate along its entire width (at the negative pole of the element).

Or at three points (usually at the positive pole of the element).

The number of soldering points depends on the element design.

The contacts are soldered to all solar cells one by one. Additional solder is used only in cases where the bar cannot be reliably soldered to the plate the first time.

First of all, the contacts are soldered to the front (negative) side of each cell, which will lie on the glass body of the panel.

A tire of the required size is prepared in advance. Its length should correspond to the width of 2 adjacent plates.

The plates with soldered contacts are laid face down on the glass body of the panel. After this, they can be soldered to each other according to polarity (“–” of each cell is soldered to the “+” of the adjacent cell, and so on).

To make it more convenient to place the elements on the glass body of the panel, its surface can be pre-marked.

Sliderrr User FORUMHOUSE

I marked the location of the cells on the glass with a black felt-tip pen. I positioned the cells and secured them with heads, nuts and bolts.

Nuts, keys and others metal objects in this case they were used as cargo. You can also fix the cells using transparent silicone, which is applied to the glass at the corners of each element.

When connecting adjacent rows of photovoltaic cells, additional solder should be used. This will increase the reliability of soldering at junctions of conductors of different widths.

When all the cells are soldered together, and the conductors are brought out through aluminum frame panels, you can start pouring solar cells.

To do this, the seams between adjacent elements are filled with silicone sealant.

Sliderrr

I filled the gaps between the panels with silicone (flattened it a little and cut off the nozzle of the syringe to ensure the aesthetics of the seam and good contact silicone with glass). When it was dry, I coated the perimeter of each panel again. After the sealant had dried, I coated the cells with yacht varnish twice. In the future I will try insulating varnish.

User Mirosh instead of varnish, it uses white silicone to fill the cells, which it applies to the surface thin layer using a spatula. The result is quite satisfactory.

Before final assembly, it is advisable to test each element for the power it generates. This can be done using a multimeter. If there are no significant differences between the current and voltage that each individual cell generates, then you can safely include them in the photovoltaic module.

Installation of Schottky diodes

The design of solar panels often uses elements that we have not previously mentioned. These are Schottky diodes.

They are installed for two reasons.

Firstly, shunt diodes are installed so that in the dark or in cloudy weather the solar panels do not discharge the battery included in the solar power plant.

Alex MAP User FORUMHOUSE

In the case of direct connection of solar panels to the battery at night, voltage drops on the panels and they heat up. Therefore, a Schottky diode was introduced into the circuit of a primitive solar controller, developed 10 years ago (protection against overnight battery discharge).

If a modern controller is connected to the solar panels, then there is no special need for protection against night discharge. A working controller, without the help of additional devices, will disconnect the power supply from the battery in time.

Secondly, if the solar module is covered by the shadow of a nearby building (or other massive object), then the power of this element is reduced. The consequences of the power reduction are as follows: in relation to the remaining panels connected in series to the shaded element, the shaded element turns from a current source into a resistive load. The resistance of the shaded module increases greatly, and its temperature increases significantly.

A significant reduction in power is the most harmless thing that can result from partial shading of a series-connected solar battery. After all, eventually the shaded module will overheat and fail. This phenomenon is called the “hot spot effect.”

In order to avoid this effect, a Schottky diode is installed in parallel with each module connected in series (or a series row of solar cells). The diode allows electricity to bypass the shaded panel. In this case, the generated voltage will decrease, but a large current drop will be avoided.

Alex MAP

The large current from the remaining panels of the circuit, which are illuminated, will not be interrupted, but will bypass the shaded parts of the panels through diodes. The final voltage will be slightly lower, but this is not important to the controller. If the panels did not have built-in diodes, then with the slightest shading of even a piece of 1 panel, the entire chain would completely stop producing current.

In other words, power losses will be commensurate with the shading area.

Diodes can be installed parallel to the entire module, or parallel to its individual rows.

Here is a diagram in which each row of cells installed in one module has its own diode. In practice, the module is most often divided into 2 equal parts.

HouseR User FORUMHOUSE

Typically, for a four-row panel, a midpoint is displayed, that is, the cells are bridged in half. The diodes are placed in the terminal box.

In any case, all solar panel modules should be positioned so that the light hits them evenly. Then you won’t have to solve the problem of shunting individual modules or even cells.

For convenience, terminal boxes are located on the back side of the solar panels.

If several series-connected groups of panels are connected to the controller in parallel, then in this case each serial chain is connected to the common circuit through an isolation diode. This allows you to avoid losses due to mismatch of individual serial chains and additionally protect the battery from discharge at night (if, suddenly, the controller fails).

Diodes are selected according to two main parameters: the maximum current that will flow in the forward direction (forward current), and the reverse voltage. The maximum reverse current voltage (Urev.max.) should not lead to diode breakdown. In this case, the performance characteristics of the diode should slightly exceed the panel rating (about 1.3 - 1.5 times).

But there is one trick here.

Max94 User FORUMHOUSE

There are no normal Schottkys for high voltages. These are just poles with a direct current fall. So it's better to take regular ones from Urev. Max ≈ 30...100V.

Installation of panels

How to mount the panels correctly and where to install them? The answers to these questions depend on the design of the security systems and the capabilities of their owner. The only thing that everyone without exception should take care of is maintaining the angle of inclination. For each region this angle will be different, and it depends directly on the latitude of the area.

On average, in winter the angle of inclination should be 10°...15° higher optimal value, in summer – by the same amount – lower. can be viewed in the FORUMHOUSE section.

Conductor cross-section

In accordance with the postulates of electrical engineering, too small a conductor cross-section can lead to overheating and even fire. Too large is not bad, but it will lead to an unreasonably inflated increase in the cost of the autonomous system. Therefore, the task of its creator is to find a “golden mean”.

Let's start with the fact that the thickest conductors should be installed in the circuit connecting the battery to the inverter (by the way, the shorter this section is, the better). This is where high currents flow.

The conductors connecting the panels to the inverter, as well as connecting the panels to each other, can be selected with a small cross-section. There may be a relatively high voltage present in these sections of the circuit, but there will always be a low current.

HeliosHouse User FORUMHOUSE

16 mm² is not needed and 10 mm² is not needed. 4 is more than enough. A “thick” wire will only be needed in the inverter circuit; the cross-section must be selected in accordance with the current power.

“Thick” and “thin” are flexible concepts, so let’s not deviate from the standards.

Considering that it is currently prohibited to use aluminum conductors in home power supply systems, the tabular data applies to copper conductors with polyvinyl chloride or rubber insulation.

Also, when choosing conductors, you should pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturers of inverters, controllers and other devices involved in the system.

Automatic circuit breakers

In the circuit of a solar power plant, as in the circuit of any other powerful source of electricity, it is necessary to install protection against short circuits. First of all, circuit breakers or fuse links must protect the power cables running from the batteries to the inverter.

Leo2 User FORUMHOUSE

If something shorts out in the inverter, then it’s not far from a fire. One of the requirements for battery systems is the presence of a DC breaker or fuse link on at least one of the wires and as close as possible to the battery terminals.

In addition, protection is placed in the battery and controller circuit. You should also not neglect the protection of certain consumer groups (DC consumers, household appliances, etc.). But this is already a rule for constructing any power supply system.

The machine installed between the battery and the controller must have a large misfire current reserve. In other words, the protection should not operate accidentally (when the load increases). Reason: if voltage is supplied to the controller input (from the power supply), then at this moment the battery cannot be disconnected from it. This may cause the device to malfunction.

Connection procedure

The electrical circuit is assembled in the following order:

1. Connecting the controller to the battery.
2. Connection to solar panel controller.
3. Connection to the controller of a group of DC consumers.
4. Connecting the inverter to batteries.
5. Connecting the load to the inverter output.

This connection sequence will help protect the controller and inverter from damage.

You can learn from the participants of our portal by visiting the corresponding topic. For those who are seriously interested, we recommend visiting another useful section dedicated to sharing experience in this area. In conclusion, we bring to your attention a video that will tell you how to properly install and connect solar panels.

Solar panels are a source of energy that can be used to generate electricity or heat for a low-rise building. But solar panels are expensive and are inaccessible to most residents of our country. Do you agree?

It’s another matter when you make a solar battery yourself - costs are significantly reduced, and this design works no worse than a panel industrial production. Therefore, if you are seriously thinking about purchasing an alternative source of electricity, try to make it yourself - it is not very difficult.

This article will discuss the manufacture of solar panels. We will tell you what materials and tools you will need for this. And a little lower you will find step-by-step instructions with illustrations that clearly demonstrate the progress of the work.

Solar energy can be converted into heat, when the energy carrier is a coolant fluid, or into electricity, collected in batteries. The battery is a generator operating on the principle of the photoelectric effect.

The conversion of solar energy into electricity occurs after the sun's rays hit the photocell plates, which are the main part of the battery.

In this case, light quanta “release” their electrons from the outer orbits. These free electrons produce an electric current that passes through the controller and accumulates in the battery, and from there it goes to energy consumers.

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Materials for creating a solar plate

When starting to build a solar battery, you need to stock up on the following materials:

• silicate plates-photocells;
• chipboard sheets, aluminum corners and slats;
• hard foam rubber 1.5-2.5 cm thick;
• a transparent element that acts as a base for silicon wafers;
• screws, self-tapping screws;
• silicone sealant for exterior use;
• electrical wires, diodes, terminals.

The amount of materials required depends on the size of your battery, which is most often limited by the number of solar cells available. The tools you will need are: a screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers, a hacksaw for metal and wood, a soldering iron. To test the finished battery, you will need an ammeter tester.

Now let's look at the most important materials in more detail.

Silicon wafers or solar cells

Photocells for batteries come in three types:

• polycrystalline;
• monocrystalline;
• amorphous.

Polycrystalline wafers are characterized by low efficiency. The size of the beneficial effect is about 10 - 12%, but this figure does not decrease over time. The operating life of polycrystals is 10 years.

A solar battery is assembled from modules, which in turn are made up of photoelectric converters. Batteries with rigid silicon solar cells are a kind of sandwich with successive layers mounted in an aluminum profile

Monocrystalline solar cells boast a higher efficiency - 13-25% and a long service life - over 25 years. However, over time, the efficiency of single crystals decreases.

Monocrystalline converters are produced by sawing artificially grown crystals, which explains the highest photoconductivity and productivity.

Film photoconverters are produced by depositing a thin layer of amorphous silicon on a polymer flexible surface

Flexible batteries with amorphous silicon are the most modern. Their photoelectric converter is sprayed or fused onto a polymer base. The efficiency is around 5 - 6%, but film systems are extremely easy to install.

Film systems with amorphous photoconverters have appeared relatively recently. This is extremely simple and maximum cheap look, but losing consumer qualities faster than its rivals.

It is not practical to use photocells of different sizes. In this case, the maximum current produced by the batteries will be limited by the current of the smallest element. This means that larger plates will not work at full capacity.

When purchasing solar cells, ask the seller about the delivery method; most sellers use the waxing method to prevent the destruction of fragile elements

Most often for homemade batteries Mono- and polycrystalline photocells measuring 3x6 inches are used, which can be ordered in online stores such as E-bye.

The cost of photocells is quite high, but many stores sell so-called elements of group B. Products classified in this group are defective, but suitable for use, and their cost is 40-60% lower than that of standard plates.

Most online stores sell photovoltaic cells in sets of 36 or 72 photovoltaic conversion plates. To connect individual modules into a battery, buses will be required, and terminals will be needed to connect to the system.

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A solar battery can be used as a backup energy source during frequent outages of the centralized power supply. For automatic switching it is necessary to provide an uninterruptible power supply system.

Such a system is convenient in that when using a traditional source of electricity, charging is carried out at the same time. The equipment servicing the solar battery is located inside the house, so it is necessary to provide a special room for it.

Ecology of consumption. Science and Technology: Everyone knows that a solar cell converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Everyone knows that a solar battery converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Components of a solar battery

The main element of our solar battery will be two copper plates. After all, as you know, copper oxide was the first element in which scientists discovered the photoelectric effect.

So, for the successful implementation of our modest project you will need:

1. Copper sheet. In fact, we don’t need a whole sheet, but small square (or rectangular) pieces of 5 cm each will suffice.

2. A pair of alligator clips.

3. Microammeter (to understand the amount of current generated).

4. Electric stove. It is necessary to oxidize one of our plates.

5. Transparent container. A regular plastic mineral water bottle will do just fine.

6. Table salt.

7. Regular hot water.

8. A small piece of sandpaper to remove any oxide film from our copper plates.

Once everything you need is prepared, you can proceed to the most important stage.

Preparing the plates

So, first of all, take one plate and wash it to remove all fats from its surface. After this, use sandpaper to clean off the oxide film and place the already cleaned bar on the switched on electric burner.

After that, we turn it on and watch how it heats up and changes our plate.

Once the copper plate has completely turned black, keep it on the hot stove for at least another forty minutes. After this, turn off the stove and wait until your “fried” copper has cooled completely.

Due to the fact that the cooling rate of the copper plate and the oxide film will be different, most of the black deposit will come off on its own.

After the plate has cooled, take it and gently wash off the black film under water.

Important. However, you should not tear off the remaining black areas or bend them in any way. This is necessary so that the copper layer remains intact.

After this, we take our plates and carefully place them in the prepared container, and attach our alligator clips with soldered wires to the edges. Moreover, we connect the untouched piece of copper to the minus, and the processed piece to the plus.

Then we prepare a saline solution, namely, we dissolve a few tablespoons of salt in water and pour this liquid into a container.

Now we check the performance of our design by connecting it to a microammeter.

As you can see, the installation is quite working. In the shade, the microammeter showed approximately 20 µA. But in the sun the device went off scale. Therefore, I can only say that in the sun such an installation clearly produces more than 100 μA.

Of course, with such an installation you will not even be able to light a light bulb, but by doing such an installation with your child, you can stir up his interest in studying, for example, physics. published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

Posted by Admin 1193 days ago

How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands

IN last years The issue of energy saving is becoming increasingly acute. Many people are starting to think about how to save energy using a variety of energy-saving technologies. Recently, more and more people have become interested in the use of solar energy at home, who come to the conclusion that it would be better to install solar panels once, and then get significant savings on their budget. This is relevant in the context of constantly rising energy prices both in Russia and around the world. You can save even more if you figure out how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands. The main feature of collecting solar panels will be the availability of components and minimal financial investments.

Selecting elements for panels

The great advantage of a self-assembled solar system is that you do not need to install the entire complex system at once; the power can be gradually increased. If the collection experience is successful, then you can continue working and increase the volume.

A solar battery is a local generator that operates by converting solar energy into electrical energy using a photovoltaic cell. In order to assemble it with your own hands, you need to select solar modules on the open market. For example, on Ebay you can buy a SolarCells kit, consisting of 36 solar cells, which is specifically designed for self-assembly of the battery. Similar sets can be purchased in Russia.

We are developing a project

The development of the project will depend on where you will place the solar battery and the installation option. Such batteries must be installed at an angle that ensures that the sun's rays hit the photocells at right angles. Don't forget that the performance of a solar panel depends entirely on the light intensity. They need to be installed on the sunny side of the building. Depending on the location of the object, as well as the flow of solar energy in each region, the angle of inclination for the solar panel is calculated.

It is worth drawing your attention to the fact that at the time of designing a system that is supposed to be installed on the roof of a building, it is necessary to identify or calculate in advance bearing capacity roofs. The roof must fully withstand the applied load, and also provide a margin of safety.

We make a frame

Before making a solar battery, you need to purchase solar cells (36 pieces). According to calculations, one element produces 0.5 Volts of energy, that is, if there are 36 elements, 18 Volts can be obtained.

There is a huge selection of plates available on the market in different sizes, but you need to remember the following when choosing them:

• All plates will produce the same level of stress regardless of their size;
• Large plates produce more current;
• By using larger plates you can get more energy, but be aware of the weight of larger panels;
• It is not recommended to use plates different sizes in one structural system.

An aluminum corner is used for the frame in the manufacture of solar panels, but you can also buy ready-made frames designed for this purpose. The transparent coating should be chosen according to your wishes, but taking into account the refractive index of light. The most affordable material will be plexiglass, and the least suitable material in terms of its characteristics is ordinary polycarbonate. The best materials for making panels will be materials that have high level light transmission. If you use plexiglass, then during operation you can monitor the contacts in the system.

Installation of the solar battery housing

If we talk about the standard production of one solar battery, it involves the use of 36 photocells with 150x81 mm plates. When calculating dimensions, you need to take into account the presence of gaps between elements of 3-5 mm, which will be necessary when changing the dimensions of the frame under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. The dimensions of the workpiece with the tolerances taken into account will be 690x835 mm and the width of the corner in the frame will be 35 mm. A solar battery that will be manufactured using an aluminum profile will be similar to a factory-made panel and will provide a high level of tightness, strength and rigidity.

To begin with, you need to make blanks from an aluminum corner - frames measuring 690x835 mm. To further fasten the screws, you need to make holes in the resulting frame. Then silicone sealant should be applied without gaps along the inner surface of the corners. This is quite an important point, because... There should be no places that are not filled with silicone. In the resulting frame you need to put a transparent sheet of plexiglass, special polycarbonate or anti-reflective glass.

Please note that the silicone must be allowed to dry, otherwise evaporation will create excess film on the photocells.

The laid glass must be carefully pressed against the frame and secured. For good fixation, fasteners must be made around the entire perimeter of the frame. That's it, the frame of the solar battery is almost complete.

Selecting and soldering elements

Also on the same Ebay or other similar store you can purchase solar cells that have already soldered conductors. Be sure to evaluate your abilities, because... Soldering contacts in such a design is a rather complicated process. Responsibility is further increased due to the fragility of the elements.

If you still decide to solder the elements yourself, then first you need to cut the conductors using a cardboard blank and carefully lay them out on the photocell. Then you need to apply acid and solder to the soldering points. For more convenient work, press the conductor with a heavy object. Next, you should carefully solder the conductor to the photocell, but do not pinch the fragile crystals. According to the specified standards, the silver coating on the conductor must withstand three solderings.

Assembling solar battery elements

When making the first assembly, it is best to use a marked backing, which will help place the elements evenly relative to each other. The base is made of plywood; be sure to mark the corners of the structure. After soldering to the battery cells, reverse side you need to secure a piece of tape for installation and transfer them in a similar way. Only the connecting parts need to be sealed.

Next, the elements need to be laid out on the glass surface. Do not forget to leave space between the elements and press them with a weight. Solder according to the attached electrical diagram. The positive tracks should be placed on the front side, and the negative tracks on the back. Solder all silver contacts. Connect all photocells using this principle. On the extreme elements of the panel, the contacts need to be connected to the plus and minus bus. It is recommended to create a “middle” point - using two additional bypass diodes. The terminal is installed on outside frames For output wires, you can use insulated speaker cable. After soldering, all wires must be secured with silicone. After assembly, solar panels have the quality of contact soldering as the main problem. That is why experts recommend testing before sealing, which must be performed in each group of elements when soldering is carried out.

If the entire system is properly designed, it will ensure sufficient battery power. When calculating the entire structure, it should be taken into account that during the manufacture of one solar battery it is necessary to use only solar modules of the same size, because in the system, the maximum current is limited by the current of the smallest element.

Standard calculations make it clear that on a fairly sunny day, approximately 120 W of power is obtained from one meter of panel. Naturally, such power will not even allow you to work on a computer, but panels of 10 meters will already provide 1 kW of energy, which will give you the opportunity to provide energy for the main appliances in the house. On average, a family requires approximately 300 kW per month, so a system that is optimally installed on the south side with dimensions of 20 meters will provide the family’s electricity needs. To optimize the use of electricity in lighting, it is recommended to use AC LED or fluorescent light bulbs. How to choose similar light bulbs, for example, for a stretch ceiling, can be read here.

Solar panels are becoming increasingly popular as an alternative power source. However, in our conditions, their price is often too high, so using materials available to everyone and necessary instructions You can assemble a solar battery with your own hands.

How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands

How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands In recent years, the issue of energy saving has become increasingly acute. Many people are starting to think

DIY solar panel

Why pay a ton of money (or any money at all) for a program that shows you how to make a solar panel when you can get the same thing for free?

I have watched my energy bills rise year after year simply because modern appliances are constantly left on standby. And this is not only harm environment, but also harms my bank account because I'm actually paying for “nothing.” I could not constantly turn off devices from the network, as this made them difficult to use and took up unnecessary time for constant settings. Gradually, I began to look for renewable energy sources to offset my unnecessary expenses. Wind power was not an option, I live in a very quiet area with no wind. Hydroelectric power is also not suitable, since I live on a plain with virtually no rivers. Therefore, solar energy seemed like the best choice for me.

– 6A blocking diode

– 24 m of ribbon wire 2 mm wide

– 2 m of ribbon wire 5 mm wide

– 1 m of heat shrink tube

– 100% silicone sealant

– crosses for tiles

– 2 aluminum corners

I soldered the solar cells according to the wiring diagram in groups. This summed the voltage of all cells to achieve the desired output (the maximum possible). I made a panel of 28 cells (4 rows of 7 elements). In this arrangement and size the panel fit perfectly into the space in my garden. As a result, I received 28x0.5V=14V (in theory). I still didn’t know the current strength because I bought inexpensive class B elements for this experiment (I just saved).

On the back of the panel I made a mounting box with a terminal block. On one side of the block there is a +, and on the other side there will be a wire to the inverter. Also in the wiring box there is a diode between the + from the panel to the + going to the inverter, this prevents the flow of electricity to the panel when the panel is not producing any electricity (for example, at night).

I contacted the solar panel seller to order a suitable inverter. I need a small inverter (I'm going to produce a small amount of electricity by your system). I took an OK-4 inverter, designed for 24 - 50 V, maximum 100 W. It was the smallest inverter. It turns out that one panel will not be enough, because it produces a maximum of 14V. I needed a second panel and that would give me a total of 28V, which would be enough for the inverter. Considering that this is not a strong current, then two panels might not be enough. And I made the third panel, which achieved consistently high performance.

My OK-4 inverter did not have a built-in display to show output, so I needed a separate meter.

The current can be increased by changing the angle of the panels more towards the sun, but this is not currently possible in the area where I have placed them.

On average, the panels produce 500 watts per week, assuming everything is operating under normal conditions. Now critics will say that this is nothing at all, but considering that the panels can give more if I change the angle/location, and the fact that my panels are smaller than standard ones plus it's only 3 panels, the numbers don't seem that small. My goal was to compensate for the energy wasted on household appliances operating in standby mode. And in this I succeeded. Without considering the reliability of the design (it takes longer to test), I can say that a homemade solar system works as well as those you can buy in a store.

In the future, I plan to test the panels for durability, since I do not yet know how they will behave in the long term, given the variety of weather conditions in which they will have to function.

And of course, I will share all the knowledge gained with readers so that everyone can repeat this at home.

DIY solar panel

Why pay a ton of money (or any money at all) for a program that shows you how to make a solar panel when you can get the same thing for free? I'll tell you how to make sol

How to make a solar battery yourself: step-by-step instructions

The desire to make the energy supply system of a private home more efficient, economical and environmentally friendly makes us look for new energy sources. One way to modernize is to install solar panels that can convert the sun's energy into electric current. There is an excellent alternative to expensive equipment - a do-it-yourself solar battery, which will allow you to save money every month from family budget. Today we will talk about how to build such a thing. We will identify all the pitfalls and tell you how to get around them.

Development of a solar energy system project

Design is necessary for more successful placement of panels on the roof of the house. The more sunlight that hits the surface of the batteries and the higher their intensity, the more energy they will produce. For installation you will need the south side of the roof. Ideally, the beams should fall at an angle of 90 degrees, so it is necessary to determine in which position the operation of the modules will bring more benefit.

The fact is that a homemade solar battery, unlike a factory one, does not have special motion sensors and concentrators. To change the angle of inclination, it is possible to manufacture a mechanism on manual control. It will allow the modules to be installed almost vertically in winter, when the sun is low above the horizon, and lowered in summer, when the solstice reaches its peak. The vertical winter arrangement also has a protective function: it prevents snow and ice from accumulating on the panels, thereby extending the life of the modules.

The energy efficiency of a modular design can be increased by creating simplest mechanism control, which will allow you to change the angle of the battery depending on the time of year and even time of day

It is possible that before installing the batteries, the roof structure will need to be strengthened, since a set of several panels has a fairly large mass. It is necessary to calculate the load on the roof, taking into account the weight of not only the solar panels, but also the snow layer. The weight of the system largely depends on the materials used in its manufacture.

The number of panels and their size are calculated based on the required power. For example, 1 m² of module produces approximately 120 W, which is not enough even for full lighting of residential premises. Approximately 1 kW of energy with 10 m² of panels will allow the functioning of lighting fixtures, a TV and a computer. Accordingly, a solar structure of 20 m² will meet the needs of a family of 3 people. Approximately these dimensions should be calculated if a private house intended for permanent residence.

The manufacture of a solar battery does not necessarily end with the initial assembly; in the future, the elements can be expanded, thereby increasing the efficiency of the equipment

Module options for self-assembly

The main purpose of a solar panel is to generate energy from the sun's rays and convert it into electricity. The resulting electric current is a stream of free electrons released by light waves. For self-assembly, the best option is mono- and polycrystalline converters, since analogues of another type - amorphous - reduce their power by 20-40% during the first two years.

Standard monocrystalline cells measure 3 x 6 inches and have a rather fragile structure, so they must be handled with extreme care and precision

Different types of silicon wafers have their pros and cons. For example, polycrystalline modules have a rather low efficiency - up to 9%, while the efficiency of monocrystalline wafers reaches 13%. The former maintain their power levels even in cloudy weather, but last an average of 10 years, the power of the latter drops sharply on cloudy days, but they function perfectly for 25 years.

A homemade device must be functional and reliable, so it is better to purchase some parts from finished form. Before making a custom solar panel, take a look at eBay, where you can find a huge selection of modules with minor defects. Slight damage does not affect the quality of work, but significantly reduces the cost of the panels. Let's say a monocrystalline Solar Cells module located on a fiberglass board costs a little more than $15, and a polycrystalline set of 72 pieces costs about $90.

Best ready-made option solar cell - a panel with conductors that require only a series connection. Modules without conductors are cheaper, but increase battery assembly time several times

Instructions for making a solar battery

There are many options for self-assembly of solar panels. The technology depends on the number of solar cells purchased in advance and additional materials required to make the housing. It is important to remember: the larger the total area of ​​the panels, the more powerful the equipment, but at the same time the weight of the structure also increases. It is recommended to use identical modules in one battery, since the current equivalence is equal to the indicators of the smaller of the elements.

Assembling a modular frame

The design of the modules, as well as their dimensions, can be arbitrary, so instead of numbers, you should rely on the photo and choose any individual option suitable for specific calculations.

The cheapest solar cells are panels without conductors. To make them ready for battery assembly, the conductors must first be soldered, which is a long and painstaking process.

To manufacture the housing inside which the solar cells will be fixed, it is necessary to prepare the following material and tools:

• sheets of plywood of the selected size;
• low slats for sides;
• universal glue or for wood;
• corners and screws for fastening;
• drill;
• fiberboard boards;
• pieces of plexiglass;
• dye.

We take a piece of plywood that will act as a base, and glue low sides around the perimeter. The slats along the edges of the sheet should not block the solar cells, so make sure that their height does not exceed ¾ inches. For reliability, each glued rail is additionally screwed with self-tapping screws, and the corners can be fastened with metal corners.

A wooden frame is the most affordable option for placing solar cells. It can be replaced with an aluminum corner frame or a purchased frame + glass set

For ventilation, we drill holes in the bottom of the case and along the sides. There should be no holes in the lid, as this could result in moisture getting in. The elements will be fastened to fiberboard sheets, which can be replaced with any similar material, the main condition is that it should not conduct electric current.

Small holes for ventilation must be drilled throughout the entire area of ​​the substrate, including the sides and the middle rail. It will allow you to regulate the level of moisture and pressure inside the frame

We cut out the cover from plexiglass, adjusting it to the dimensions of the case. Regular glass is too fragile to be placed on a roof. To protect the wooden parts, we use a special impregnation or paint, which should be used to treat the frame and substrate on all sides. It would be nice if the shade of the frame paint matches the color of the roofing.

Painting serves not so much an aesthetic function as a protective one. Each part should be coated with at least 2-3 layers of paint so that the wood does not become warped in the future. humid air or overheating

Installation of solar cells

We lay out all solar modules in even rows on the substrate, back side up, to solder the conductors. To work you will need a soldering iron and solder. Soldering areas must first be treated with a special pencil. To begin with, you can practice on two elements, connecting them in series. We also connect all the elements on the substrate sequentially, in a chain, and the result should be a “snake”.

We install each element strictly according to the markings and make sure that the conductors of neighboring elements intersect at the soldering points

Having connected all the elements, carefully turn them face up. If there are many modules, you will have to invite helpers, since it is quite difficult for one person to turn the soldered elements without damaging them. But before that, we coat the modules with glue to secure them firmly to the panel. It is better to use silicone sealant as glue, and it should be applied strictly in the center of the element, at one point, and not along the edges. This is necessary to protect the plates from breakage if a slight deformation of the base suddenly occurs. A sheet of plywood can bend or swell due to changes in humidity, and the stably glued elements will simply crack and fail.

Having secured the modules to the substrate, you can test run the panel and check the functionality. Then we place the base in the finished frame and fix it along the edges with screws. To prevent the battery from discharging through the solar panel, we install a blocking diode on the panel, securing it with sealant.

To connect the chains, you can use copper wire or cable braid, which fixes each element on both sides and is then secured with sealant

Trial testing helps to do preliminary calculations. In this case, they turned out to be correct - in the sun without load, the battery produces 18.88 V

We cover the installed elements on top with a protective plexiglass screen. Before fixing it, we again check the functionality of the structure. By the way, you can test modules during the entire installation and soldering process, in groups of several pieces. We make sure that the sealant dries completely, since its fumes can cover the plexiglass with an opaque film. We equip the output wire with a two-pin connector so that the controller can be used in the future.

One panel is assembled and completely ready for use. All equipment, including items purchased online, cost $105

Photovoltaic systems of a private house

Electrical home energy supply systems using solar cells can be divided into 3 types:

If the house is connected to the central power grid, then the best option would be mixed system: During the day, power is supplied from solar panels, and at night - from batteries. The central network in this case is a reserve. When it is not possible to connect to the central power supply, it is replaced with fuel generators - gasoline or diesel.

A controller is needed to prevent short circuits at the moment of maximum load, a battery is needed to store energy, and an inverter is needed to distribute and supply it to the consumer.

When choosing the most good option The time of day at which maximum energy consumption occurs should be taken into account. In private homes, the peak period falls in the evening, when the sun has already set, so it would be logical to use either a connection to the public network or the additional use of generators, since solar energy supply occurs during the daytime.

Photovoltaic power supply systems use networks with both direct and alternating current, and the second option is suitable for placing devices at a distance of more than 15 m

For summer residents, whose operating hours often coincide with daylight hours, a solar energy-saving system is suitable, which begins to function at sunrise and ends in the evening.

DIY solar battery: how to make a homemade panel

How to develop a project and select elements for a solar battery. Instructions for assembling an energy-efficient structure. Photovoltaic systems for home

How to make a solar battery with your own hands

Providing comfortable living conditions in modern apartments and private houses cannot do without electrical energy, the need for which is constantly increasing. However, prices for this energy carrier are increasing with sufficient regularity. Accordingly, the overall cost of maintaining housing increases. Therefore, a do-it-yourself solar battery for a private home, along with others, is becoming increasingly relevant alternative sources electricity. This method makes it possible to make an object energy independent in conditions of constant rising prices and power outages.

Efficiency of solar panels

The problem of autonomous power supply to devices and equipment in private homes has been considered for a long time. One of the alternative power options is solar energy, which modern conditions has found wide application in practice. The only factor that causes doubts and controversy is the efficiency of solar panels, which does not always live up to expectations.

The performance of solar panels directly depends on the amount of solar energy. Thus, batteries will be most effective in regions where sunny days prevail. Even in the most ideal scenario, battery efficiency is only 40%, and in real conditions this figure is much lower. Other condition normal functioning lies in the availability of significant areas for the installation of autonomous solar systems. If for country house This is not a serious problem, but apartment owners have to solve many additional technical problems.

Design and principle of operation

The operation of solar panels is based on the ability of photocells to convert solar energy into electrical energy. All of them come together in the form of a multi-cell field, united into a common system. The action of solar energy turns each cell into a source of electric current, which is collected and stored in batteries. The dimensions of the total area of ​​such a field directly affect the power of the entire device. That is, with an increase in the number of photocells, the amount of generated electricity also increases accordingly.

This does not mean that the required amount of electricity can only be generated over very large areas. There are many small household appliances that use solar energy - calculators, flashlights and other devices.

In modern country houses, solar-powered lighting devices are becoming increasingly popular. With the help of these simple and economical devices, garden paths, terraces and other necessary places are illuminated. At night, the electricity stored during the day when the sun is shining is used. The use of energy-saving lamps allows you to consume accumulated electricity over a long period of time. Solving the main problems of energy supply is carried out with the help of other, more powerful systems that allow generating a sufficient amount of electricity.

Main types of solar panels

Before you start hand-made solar panels, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with their main types in order to choose the most suitable option for yourself.

All solar energy converters are divided into film and silicon, in accordance with their structure and design features. The first option is represented by thin-film batteries, where the converters are made in the form of a film made using special technology. These structures are also known as polymer structures. They can be installed in any available location, however, they require a lot of space and have low efficiency. Even average cloudiness can reduce the efficiency of film devices by 20%.

Silicon batteries come in three types:

• Monocrystalline. The design consists of numerous cells with built-in silicon converters. They are joined together and filled with silicone. They are easy to use, lightweight, flexible, and waterproof. But to ensure effective operation of such batteries, exposure to direct sunlight is required. Despite the relatively high efficiency - up to 22%, when cloudiness occurs, electricity generation can significantly decrease or stop completely.
• Polycrystalline. Compared to monocrystalline ones, they have more converters housed in cells. Their installation is made in different directions, which significantly increases operating efficiency even in low light. These batteries are most widespread, especially in urban environments.
• Amorphous. They have low efficiency - only 6%. However, they are considered very promising due to their ability to absorb light flux many times greater than that of the first two types.

All types of solar panels considered are manufactured in factories, so their price remains very high. In this regard, you can try to make a solar battery yourself, using inexpensive materials.

Selection of materials and parts for the manufacture of a solar battery

Since the high cost of autonomous solar energy sources makes them inaccessible for widespread use, home craftsmen can try to organize the manufacture of solar panels with their own hands from scrap materials. It should be remembered that when making a battery it is impossible to make do with only available materials. You will definitely have to buy factory parts, even if they are not new.

A solar energy converter consists of several basic elements. First of all, this is the battery itself of a certain type, which has already been discussed above. Next comes the battery controller, which controls the charge level of the batteries with the received electric shock. The next element is batteries that store electricity. An inverter will be required to convert D.C. into variable. Thus, all household appliances designed for 220 volts will be able to operate normally.

Each of these elements can be freely purchased on the electronics market. If you have certain theoretical knowledge and practical skills, then most of them can be collected independently using standard schemes, including the solar battery controller. In order to calculate the power of the converter, you need to know for what purpose it will be used. This can be only lighting or heating, as well as fully meeting the needs of the facility. In this regard, materials and components will be selected.

When making a solar battery with your own hands, you need to determine not only the power, but also the operating voltage of the network. The fact is that solar energy networks can operate on constant or alternating current. The latter option is considered more preferable, since it allows the distribution of electricity to consumers over a distance of over 15 meters. When using polycrystalline batteries, from one square meter you can get, on average, about 120 watts in one hour. That is, to obtain 300 kW per month, solar panels with a total area of ​​20 m2 will be required. This is exactly how much an ordinary family of 3-4 people spends.

In private homes and cottages, solar panels are used, each of which includes 36 elements. The power of one panel is about 65 W. In a small private house or country house, 15 panels capable of generating electrical power of up to 5 kW per hour are sufficient. After performing preliminary calculations, you can purchase conversion plates. It is acceptable to purchase damaged items with minor defects that only affect appearance batteries. In operating condition, each element is capable of delivering about 19 V.

Manufacturing of solar panels

After all materials and parts are prepared, you can begin assembling the converters. When soldering elements, it is necessary to provide a gap for expansion between them within 5 mm. Soldering should be done very carefully and carefully. For example, if the records have no wiring, they will need to be soldered manually. To work, you will need a 60-watt soldering iron, to which a regular 100-watt incandescent lamp is connected in series.

All plates are soldered in series to each other. The plates are characterized by increased fragility, so it is recommended to solder them using a frame. During desoldering, diodes are inserted into the circuit together with the photographic plates, protecting the photocells from discharge when the light level decreases or complete darkness sets in. For this purpose, the halves of the panel are combined in a common bus, which in turn is output to the terminal block, due to which a midpoint is created. The same diodes protect batteries from discharge at night.

One of the main conditions efficient work batteries is high-quality soldering of all points and components. Before installing the substrate, these places must be tested. To output current, it is recommended to use conductors with a small cross-section, for example, a speaker cable in silicone insulation. All wires are secured with sealant. After this, the material for the surface to which the plates will be attached is selected. The most suitable characteristics are those of glass, which transmit light much better than carbonate or plexiglass.

When making a solar battery from improvised materials, you need to take care of the box. Usually the box is made of a wooden beam or an aluminum corner, after which glass is placed in it using sealant. The sealant should fill any imperfections and then dry completely. Due to this, dust will not get inside, and the photographic plates will not become dirty during operation.

Next, a sheet with soldered photocells is installed on the glass. It can be secured in a variety of ways, however, the best options are clear epoxy resin or sealant. Epoxy resin The entire surface of the glass is evenly covered, then the converters are installed on it. When using sealant, fastening is carried out at points in the center of each element. At the end of the assembly, you should get a sealed case, inside of which the solar battery is placed. The finished device will produce approximately 18-19 volts, which is quite enough to charge a 12 volt battery.

Possibility of home heating

After a homemade solar battery is assembled, every owner will probably want to test it in action. The most important problem is heating the house, so the first thing to check is the possibility of heating using solar energy.

Solar collectors are used for heating. With the help of a vacuum collector, sunlight is converted into heat. Thin glass tubes are filled with liquid, which is heated by the sun and transfers heat to water placed in a storage tank. In our case, this method is not suitable, since we are talking exclusively about converting solar energy into electrical energy.

It all depends on the power of the device used. In any case, heating the water in the boiler will consume most of the energy received. If 100 liters of water are heated to 70-80 degrees, it will take about 4 hours. The electricity consumption of a water boiler with 2 kW heating elements will be 8 kW. When generating electricity 5 kW per hour, there will be no problems. However, when the battery area is less than 10 m2, heating a private house with their help becomes impossible.

DIY solar battery

When making a solar battery with your own hands from scrap materials, you need to determine not only the power, but also the operating voltage of the network. Manufacturing process from A to Z