How to properly secure a socket box in a concrete wall. How to install a socket box: choosing a location for the socket, cutting, installing a socket box. Creating holes in the wall

When installing modern sockets or switches indoor installation their mechanisms must be placed in a special plastic box - a socket box. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.

Agree that one socket in the kitchen is no longer enough, and sockets installed at different ends of the wall are not always convenient to use. Therefore, electrical equipment is often designed in such a way that several points for connecting household appliances are located in one place. It is very practical and functional.

Some craftsmen, out of ignorance, do not assemble for one multi-post frame, but install separate sockets nearby. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, such installation does not look very nice.

Professionals at installation of socket block Always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows. But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation it is difficult to install the sockets in the boxes, due to the fact that they overlap each other.

In this case, the decorative frame also does not fall into place. This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not maintained. Ideally distance between centers of socket boxes should be 71 mm. And when installing large number boxes, they begin to shift relative to each other or become deformed under the action of the putty mixture.

Good afternoon dear friends! I am again pleased to welcome you to the Electrician in the House website. In this article we will talk about one simple and, at the same time, useful thing for installation of socket boxes in brick walls, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professional electrical installers know how difficult it is sometimes to evenly install a block of five sockets.

Using a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install socket boxes with millimeter accuracy. Such things are not produced by industrial enterprises, so craftsmen independently make homemade products suitable for them. This device It's called electrician slang. There are also names such as conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.

Strip for installing socket boxes

Most plastic boxes for mounting sockets have dimensions of 68 mm in diameter and a depth of about 45 mm. Boxes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but all have the same functionality - when assembled into a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.

To prevent the boxes from dancing relative to each other during installation, they must be firmly fixed to each other. How are the boxes assembled into a block? Let's consider socket boxes from Schneider Electric for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front there are special latches for joining several boxes.

You can also dock boxes using special connectors – plugs.

At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes into a block, the required center-to-center dimensions. Why is some kind of template needed for installing socket boxes? Everything fits together perfectly.

However, it should be taken into account that in order to secure the socket box, the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket box itself must be filled with mortar. Therefore, the solution is placed in excess in the nest. And when you begin to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out of all the cracks, filling the voids, resulting in a very strong fixation of the socket box.

But when pressing the box, it is necessary to apply a fair amount of force, under the influence of which the plastic socket box can simply burst or change shape (become oval), and a block of several boxes will necessarily blur into different sides. At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.

Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly leveled so that the ends do not stick out or are recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing a socket box with bare hands This can be done, but it takes a lot of time and effort.

It was to solve such problems that I made myself such a device as which allows you to save not only time, but also nerves.

How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands

Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device. To do this, I took an aluminum corner measuring 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket boxes installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10 - 15 cm on each side). I decided to do layout for five socket boxes so I took a corner 60 cm long.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, much less from aluminum. You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, whoever has what, for example, a pipe profile. The convenience of an aluminum template is its lightness. By the way, the idea arose to make a model from a DIN rail, there is no need to drill holes.

Now you need to mark a line in the center of the rib where the boxes will be attached. Using a tape measure, find the center on both sides of the corner and mark a line with a pencil.

Along the marked line we will drill holes for fastening the socket boxes using self-tapping screws. Ours is almost ready. Let's start drilling the holes. To do this, we can use a screwdriver and a 3 mm metal drill.

We retreat 12 cm from the edge of the corner and drill the first hole. To prevent the drill from slipping from the intended drilling site, I recommend that it be centered.

Then we measure distance between screw centers socket box and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, we drill holes for all socket boxes in the block.

Trying the box on the bar

We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes. During installation, this will help press the entire structure against the wall.

Now let’s attach all the socket boxes to the finished layout, we get a smooth structure that can be inserted into the wall without distortions or bends.

Let's see what distance we have between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:

For installing a socket box using a template pour a little mortar into the hole in the wall, insert the wires into the sockets and attach the template to the wall. First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.

The convenience of this design is that all boxes are installed with an exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly check and adjust each box until the solution dries completely. Deformation of the boxes is also eliminated, and all of them are placed flush with the wall.

You can make sharpenings along the edges to make it convenient align the template horizontally.

I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you make installation easier and faster. Who has any opinions? Maybe someone is already using this design or has opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.

An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of sockets. According to all the rules, at this stage a box for an outlet is required, which is one of the main elements of installation and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple electrical element allows you to repair or replace the outlet.

Socket boxes and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket box is and what it is needed for. This question may arise only if repairs with a change in wiring are necessary. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. A small repair involving changing the installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.

The socket box is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Necessary for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is covered with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, which is why not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can’t just place the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, it is necessary that the socket complex is assembled with high quality and works perfectly.

Other purposes of socket boxes include:

Guarantee of strong fixation of the mechanisms of sockets, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by screws of the socket box or spacer legs of the installed devices.
Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the socket (switch) and the wall of the room.
Performing the distribution function. boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
Provides additional protection against accidental fire.

In order for the mounting box for sockets and switches to correspond to the listed functions, you should make a responsible choice. This will serve as a guarantee for the future uninterrupted operation devices and electrical network.

Choosing the right boxes for sockets

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several types. Such a classification is necessary for their proper installation and subsequent implementation of the purposes listed above.

There are a number of classification parameters, among which several main ones should be highlighted.

By type of installed surface

Socket boxes may be necessary for installation in various rooms, made from different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

According to this parameter, their design may differ in some way. For example, a box for mounting in plasterboard has additional tabs for secure fastening.

According to the material of manufacture

Socket boxes can be plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a wide range of models and shapes:

Round - have become widespread. It is easy to make a hole in the wall for them and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
Oval - characterized by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wires necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
Square - they have a large amount of space for wires and allow the installation of dimmer elements, “ smart home"and a number of other devices. Capable of holding up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal socket boxes are not widely used because they are conductors electric current. But this is the option of choice in houses made of wood.

By number of sockets

Single boxes designed for mounting single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket boxes is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - internal diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally there is an installation diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best option The choice is the socket box, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If it is necessary to carry out wiring without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is suitable.

List of necessary tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work necessary list tools are usually at hand. But even minor repairs require preliminary selection of tools.

To install a socket box, the list of necessary tools should be presented as follows:

Level with pencil and compass. Necessary for marking the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if installation is necessary).
Drill. Required for making holes for boxes. The drill will need crowns for drilling - if they are missing, a concrete drill will do. If you don’t have a drill, a hammer drill or grinder will do.
Hammer with chisel. They will be needed at the stage of forming holes to knock out excess pieces of the wall.
Spray. It will be needed during drilling to water the crown, prevent cracking of the tiles and prevent dust from flying away.
Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of attaching boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about socket outlets, the presence of which must be ensured before performing the listed actions.

Installation of socket boxes in rooms made of various materials

The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets and subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the wall material, the installation procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for indoor walls, so installing socket boxes in in this case worked out to the smallest detail:

Carrying out marking. A serious stage, especially when installing several socket boxes, where the same level of location is especially important.
Making holes. The diameter of the holes for sockets must exceed the diameter of the installed socket by 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a crown or a pobedite tip. It is necessary to drill holes around the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out inner part(in the absence of a hammer drill and a drill, you can use a grinder), doing rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
Trying on the box. Proper installation must be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the pre-prepared holes.
Installation process. You need to place a layer of putty in the hole so that the glass fits. After installation, you need to leave everything for a few minutes for the solution to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part from the wall.

If the fixation is insufficient, the socket box should be additionally secured with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in brickwork similar to installation in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed flush on the outside of the wall. It is necessary to take into account that an additional layer of plaster and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom) will be laid on the wall. It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket box should be pulled out from the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

make a recess (diamond, pobedite);
hide the wire in the hole and cover it with a lid (for example, made of cardboard);
putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay tiles);
proceed to the first stage of installation of the socket box (after the tile adhesive and plaster have dried), carefully drilling holes at the required coordinates.

Subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket boxes in concrete.

Gas silicate

When installing socket boxes in gas silicate blocks, you should prepare for a large amount of dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in finishing walls made of gas silicate, phased implementation installation of socket boxes is similar to that when installing them in brick walls. The only caveat is that the holes should be made using a drill with an inventory drill. An impact drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to comply with all safety requirements.

Mounting boxes in PVC and MDF panels and more

The number of different materials used in modern construction, amazes.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of installing socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a hammer drill and mortar are not required. The work will be completed several times faster compared to installing socket boxes in walls made of concrete or brick.

You need to purchase special boxes that have additional legs to ensure best mount to a sheet of drywall. After marking, you can make holes using a drill with a crown or a regular drill. Then you need to bring the wire out and thread it into the socket box, and then insert it into the hole. The bolts from the adjustment tabs should be tightened on it.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the inside of the drywall. All other steps (attaching the socket mechanism) are standard.

Tree

Performance hidden wiring in a house made mainly of wooden components is not a cheap pleasure. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with wood.

Standard plastic socket boxes are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an electrical arc in the event of a short circuit.

During the installation process, the wires should be laid in iron pipes, and the joints with the socket box should be carefully sealed. We should not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. To provide additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be lined with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as places for installing sockets.

To carry out this process quickly, you need to purchase boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fastening, you should buy self-tapping screws. At the assembly stage, the power cable should be laid in advance.

The holes for the socket boxes in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They must be strictly sized so that the socket fits quite tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. After this, you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.

When installing a whole complex of devices, you should always maintain a distance between sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to the millimeter, you can make an original template yourself. To do this, you need to take any rigid material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark in the center of the rib where the socket boxes will be attached.

To do this, you need to find the center using a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. You need to drill holes along the finished line with a metal drill. Then you need to use a tape measure to measure the distance between the holes of the box and drill a second point according to it. Make holes for the remaining boxes in the same way. In order not to perform so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for socket boxes.

Conclusion

The glass under the socket greatly simplified the process of installing various electrical sockets. Allows you to mount sockets into the wall without any problems, making them almost invisible. This allows them to fit harmoniously into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket boxes allow you to repair electrical sockets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the immediate process of installing electrical outlets.

Electrifying a home is one of the main stages in creating ideal living conditions. But connecting electricity does not mean that everything will be reliable. A lot depends on how the socket boxes are installed in concrete wall, or in drywall. They are also called installation boxes. Without socket boxes it is impossible to make normal sockets that will hold up even under heavy loads. Let's talk about what work needs to be done and what is required to install these items.

What are socket boxes and their types

Socket boxes are special boxes made of certain materials (plastic, metal, etc.). These elements are used when installing electrical points (sockets) on the walls. The main purpose of socket boxes is to improve the hole in the wall and at the same time they make it suitable for further installation sockets or switches.

Additionally, socket boxes are also used when lowering or moving sockets as a distribution box. This makes it possible to carry out all the work as conveniently as possible, without making additional drilling of holes in the wall and without removing old wiring. Socket boxes can now be found on store shelves in round, square, rectangular and with rounded edges.

Various socket boxes

Previously, all socket boxes were made of metal. They were called sleeves and were used everywhere. Today, metal socket boxes are used only in wooden houses, where it is necessary to comply with the conditions fire safety. Among the disadvantages of such sleeves are:

very weak fastening of sockets and switches;
the sleeves do not adhere well to the solution, which leads to the socket falling out;
there is also a high probability of damaging the wires with sharp edges.

When to install?

To be honest, there are practically no time restrictions for installing socket boxes. They can be installed both before the start of work and after it is completed. The only exception is walls that have not yet been plastered. It is also not recommended to install socket boxes in a concrete wall after covering it with wallpaper; there is a high probability of damaging the coating itself.

Some electricians decide to save their time and find out the thickness of the plaster layer in advance. To be honest, this method is quite dubious, since no one can say the exact values and subsequently there is a high probability that the socket will stick out strongly from the wall, or vice versa - it will be recessed into it.

According to the rules, socket boxes, like distribution boxes, must be mounted flush with the wall, or go into it no more than 2 mm.

Using socket holes

Marking

The route marking includes designation of the locations of sockets. They are determined by checking with the project or installation diagram.

The socket box is mounted in concrete only after a hole has been formed using a crown or a hammer drill with a lance. Fixation is done using construction mixture(alabaster, putty, etc.). The locations of the sockets are marked as follows:

From the very beginning, you need to mark the required vertical distance from the floor on the wall. If we take the standards, then all sockets should be located no higher than 40 cm, and switches should be approximately at a height of 90 cm.
Next, apply the socket box and outline it with a marker or pencil.
A crown is selected according to the size of the socket box and a hole is drilled.

Drilling process

There are several ways to make a hole. The choice of tools depends entirely on the wall material. The easiest way is to make recesses in foam concrete and other porous concrete. One of the most difficult materials is ordinary monolithic concrete.

Holes for socket outlets can be made in three ways:

Using a special crown;
Using a drill (the wall is drilled around the perimeter and then broken out);
Using a hammer and chisel.

Creating a hole for sockets

As already mentioned, making holes in concrete with your own hands is the hardest thing to do. For this reason, we will consider this method in as much detail as possible.

To make recesses, they use different types of crowns that can be used to work on porous concrete and drywall. This requires a heavy-duty diamond-coated tip. This guarantees its strength. Additionally, high-alloy metal is used as a base. Although such crowns are effective, their cost is quite high. So not everyone can afford such a thing.

Additionally, it is worth noting that making indentations using this technique takes a lot of time. The instrument itself gets very hot and needs to be allowed to rest. For these reasons, making 30-40 holes can take 2-3 days, which is quite a long time. To save time, it is much better to use a drill along the contour of the hole and then knock out the concrete with a chisel yourself.

Installation and sealing of socket boxes

The process of installing socket boxes is carried out in a certain sequence. By following it, you can carry out the work efficiently and without further alterations. So, the working method is as follows:

Then just wait about an hour and you can use the socket box for its intended purpose. This instruction will allow the installation to be carried out as correctly as possible and will take a minimum of time to complete. Even if you work independently, there should be no difficulties.

What to remember

The very first thing you need to remember is that the consistency of the mixture plays a very important role when sealing. It should be moderately thick, otherwise it will simply not flow into all the holes and will not create the necessary adhesion. A very liquid consistency will also not allow it to work fully, as it will simply flow out of the hole.

Do not install using hammers. There is a high probability of damage to the box. And this will have little effect. It is best to use plaster to seal the hole. You can also use gypsum plaster, but its application requires knowledge of some rules.

The first thing is good adhesion to the spatula, which requires frequent wetting. Gypsum does not have such properties and is much easier to spread on the socket. The second is uneven hardening. So, if the top has already dried, then there is a high probability of material flowing inside. This leads to the fact that when leveling the socket box, you can deform the surface, which is already flat.

Drywall installation method

Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is slightly different from the sequence of work on a surface exposed with plasterboard. The fact is that the element will be located in the space between the wall and the sheets, where there is no place to catch on. The installation sequence is carried out as follows:

From the very beginning, you need to determine where the wires go and drill a hole with a crown.
We bring the wires out and insulate them.
Next, we pull the ends of the wires through the socket box and screw it to the drywall. At the same time, the adjusting screws allow the special claws to diverge, and the sleeve is tightly attached.

If the hypocardboard is attached to the wall using a building mixture, then this also has its own nuances. Although this is rarely done, there are times when this method is the only option. So, first you need to prepare two crowns: for drywall and concrete. First, take the first one and cut through the sheet. Next, we change it to a diamond bit and make a hole in the concrete. It is worth considering that in this case the socket boxes must be shallow to minimize the expenditure of force. After drilling, you need to knock out everything that remains in the recess and then seal it in exactly the same way as in a regular concrete wall.

As a rule, installation of socket boxes does not take much time and is not difficult. For this reason, they can be performed independently, without involving specialists. Be sure to stock up on several power tools in the form of a hammer drill or drill. This will make it possible to solve the cooling issue, since while the first “unit” is working, the second will be resting, and so on in turn.

Socket box is a plastic cylinder that is mounted into the wall for subsequent installation of sockets or switches in it. There are stacked socket boxes (as in the picture) and double, triple, quadruple, etc.

Installation of socket boxes in concrete walls

Socket boxes also differ in the type of installation: for monolithic bases and for sheet materials. Standard sizes socket box: diameter 60 mm, depth 40 mm.

Let's consider fixing the socket box to a monolithic base.

First of all, you need to decide where the socket box will be located, decide how many pieces you need and choose the height from the floor.

If you are making socket boxes for sockets, then the recommended height is 25-50 cm from the floor, if you are making socket boxes for switches, then the height is 90-120 cm from the floor.

It is also necessary to think about which side the electrical wire will be supplied from in order to correctly make the holes in the socket box.

In the example, the wire is fed into one socket box from above.

Then you need to knock out a recess in the wall according to the size of the socket boxes, so that they are flush with the wall. It is best to knock out with a hammer drill with a lance attachment.

You can also use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut along the contour, and then knock out the middle with a hammer drill. In this case, you will get a smooth, neat depression, but there will be a lot of dust from this method.

To glue the socket boxes, putty or tile adhesive is suitable. If you want to immediately start installing wiring, I recommend using alabaster ( building gypsum), its setting time is about 5 minutes.

In our example, putty is used.

We dilute it with water and apply it into the recess with a spatula.

We take the socket boxes and insert them into the recess, but not too deep.

Using a level, we recess the socket boxes flush with the wall.

We press the level horizontally and vertically to each socket.

Align the socket boxes horizontally. We use the holes for the screws on the body of the socket box as a guide, apply a level and level it. If you have more than three socket boxes, then you also need to make sure that they do not bend; all the holes for the screws must be on the same straight line.

Having exposed, we cover the edges, leaving a small unsealed area on top for laying the wire.

After laying the wires, you can cover them completely.

In the same way, you can install any number of socket boxes.

Installation of socket boxes in hollow structures.

Let's look at an example of attaching a socket box to a ventilation unit.

The wall thickness of this block is about 3 cm, which is unlikely to allow installing the socket box on putty, but, as you know, hopeless situations can not be.

We cut out a hole with a grinder with a diamond blade according to the size of the socket boxes.

Using pebbles, pieces of drywall and all sorts of crap, we set the socket boxes to the level.

Now carefully foam the edges using mounting foam.

We stretch the wire and foam it to the end.

After the foam has completely hardened, trim off the excess.

And the last thing I haven’t mentioned yet is attaching the socket boxes to drywall or other sheet materials.

This will require a crown required diameter, as well as special socket boxes.

They can be identified by appearance, they have two additional hooks on the edges.

In order to install them, it is enough to drill a hole equal to the outer diameter of the socket box, insert it, and then tighten two screws along the edges until the socket box is completely pressed against the surface.

That's all.

Happy installation :)

How to install a socket in a concrete wall

When it is renovated, it's time to start understanding where we will have the furniture, what space there will be for the TV or refrigerator... And it often turns out that a new place for some devices that are not equipped with an outlet leads to the next one not being worn or stretched.

“In general, why do you need these housing transfers?” Think.

Then the order appears - install the socket. But the wall is made of strong Soviet concrete: hitting a chisel will not work here, it is not brick. But it does not matter! Armed hammer drill, and today we will participate in a competition where a specific fortress will compete with the ingenuity of the Russian man!

What do we need

We should not ignore these items as some of them depend on your health.

perforator;
More angles with 8mm diameter;
Top for gating;
Caps PPE;
Construction glasses (required subject);
pencil;
Brush and water;
Gypsum plaster, blade and all solutions for preparing the mortar;
Copper triple cable;
coatings;
Installation of wires;
Rosetta;
Screwdriver.

So let's go to work

Find a place in the apartment where you can connect your future.
Perhaps it will be an old socket on the same wall. You don't need it and you don't usually use it. Well, a good reason to get rid of it, because it took so long, tired of you, I thought you decided to take it apart and connect it with a cable from the new connector it will need;
Take the socket and connect it to the place in the wall where the next socket should be installed, circle this space;
If you want to drill a hole you can take a beaver crown here if you don't then take a punch and start drilling holes for the drilling length.
Now turn the other hole in the middle;
Align the socket to the point where the connector is inserted and drill holes every 30cm to secure the built-in wire;
Wait for the brewer to cool and transfer to the top;
Using a pike, start punching through the concrete from the hole that forms it.
The procedure is lengthy, so be patient. Also, don't forget that you will need to continue to widen the hole that was created at the bottom while trying to engage the brush;
Now that the bulk of the work is done, try again on the sub - it should be fully inserted into the hole, and the seat in it is definitely not protruding from any part of it.
This is important for correct and smooth installation of the socket;
Take a brush, soak it in water and thoroughly clean the hole and the trick under the wire;
Attach the wire in the rod to the clamps and make sure that it does not stand out longer;
Now we prepare the solution so that its consistency is pure;

Include a putty knife in the hole and insert the plaster with the shields, pull the wire into it, line it up and let it harden the plaster;
Leave the plaster with the remaining plaster and let it freeze;
Once the solution has solidified, you can proceed directly to installing the socket.
Remove the socket and connect the red (white) and blue insulated to the phase connections (L) and neutral (N). The yellow wire is responsible for the ground, and if you don't have one in your home, you can't clean it. Then insert this unit into the podrozetnik so as not to interfere with its separating lepeski (rest) and the ears of the screws were placed on the screws themselves, which are screwed into the podrozetnik;

Tighten the screws in the jars and make sure that the socket is installed on all sides as close to the wall as possible.
Also, make sure it is positioned horizontally inside the subcontractor without any curvature;
The penultimate phase. Remove the plastic housing from the socket and insert it into place;

Connecting the socket

Everything is almost ready, and the most important moment has come - connecting the outlet. Now you must go to the ground and turn off the apartment.

If you don't know where the cars from your home are located, check with your neighbors about the location of their cars and, by extension, yours if you operate with an exception. Now turn off the one that is responsible for the electricity supply on the right side of the living room.

Instructions for installing sockets in concrete walls

If you don't know, turn everything off.

Well, now you can safely participate in the connection. Pull the wires out of the new plug with the old ones and tighten the PPE caps on top. That's all, we hope this article helped you!

Guide to installing sockets in a concrete wall

Every builder and owner of a home or home ownership works throughout their life with such an important task as replacing electrical wiring.

Replacement of electrical installations is a responsible process that requires close attention and attention.

Sufficient time and attention must be given to ensure the quality of the wiring to prevent this issue from occurring in the near future.

Wiring types

Wiring is carried out in two options: internal wiring and external.

Older houses often have external electrical appliances.

Installation of subplants in a concrete wall

This is inappropriate and dangerous. To replace an old socket with a new one (or switch), the old one must be disassembled. Before starting electrical installation, the electrical voltage must be switched off using the input machines.

Tools

To start the installation, you need to have a set of tools:

drilling or drilling, crown or drill;
plastic bag (very popular and easy to install);
socket kit.

First mark the installation location and then rotate the circle to the required size.

Completing the installation and fastening of the juniper will help the building materials: a mixture of gypsum, alabaster or already prepared quick-drying mixtures.

Installation should begin by marking the location of the sub-frames in the concrete wall (mark the circle with a pencil or marker).

Then, using a hammer drill or drill, rotate the circle to the desired size. We're trying to incorporate a piece into it. If there are irregularities in the niche, remove them using a chisel, screwdriver and hammer.

On the side where the wires come in, remove the plug and place it in the hole.

Proper installation of sockets in a concrete wall does not work without strublen channels to cover the electrical wires. For these works you will need:

angle grinder (Bulgarian);
discs for concrete.

Finishing work

The mounting screw in the wall is made using alabaster or mortar.

Go back to the installation screen in the concrete wall: it needs to be leveled with a water scale, it should not go down on the wall because it is impossible to mount the socket and they stick to it, this was not necessary because

It's ugly and dangerous.

Block the cabinet in the wall with alabaster, plaster. Before using the fastening solution, it is necessary to drill drilled hole. A trowel or structural trowel will then need to fill the hollow hole and cover the resulting mixture and self-teach the outside. Insert box of extra mixture to fill empty molds.

Alabaster and cold freeze for 5-10 minutes and then we will continue until we begin installing the socket.

Continue straight from installing the socket, loosen the connectors, secure the wires and terminals in them. Attach the screws along the edges that are used to secure the socket to the back box. Then attach the fork to the center screw. The installation has stopped.

Making holes in a concrete wall presents many difficulties. The material is hard and needs in a specialized tool.

The task of installing a hidden socket, which requires an appropriate recess, is considered especially difficult.

An additional difficulty lies in the need to make not a through hole, but a recess of certain dimensions.

Solving the problem will require skills, experience, and certain knowledge.

The question is not very difficult, but requires detailed consideration.

The better to drill

Drilling a hole in concrete is a test for strong-willed people. Builders try to use tools that are appropriate for the material being processed.

They often try to make holes in concrete with pobeddite (carbide) drills and the result remains unsatisfactory.

The hardness and abrasive qualities of concrete quickly damage cutting edge drill.

The most successful tool that can cope with concrete is a hammer drill, which uses its own technique that is different from drilling.

Making a nest using a grinder is somewhat more difficult. You will need to install a diamond cutting disc, but you won’t be able to complete the task entirely; you will have to complete the result using a hammer drill or electric drill.

Work performed with hard types of concrete in load-bearing walls panel houses, require the use of an appropriate tool. You should not waste time trying to operate with inappropriate devices; you must immediately use specialized devices.

Using a hammer drill

Drilling into concrete is useless.

The hammer drill copes with the task quite confidently, since a different principle is used - not cutting, but chipping away small particles of concrete. The process is called rotary impact drilling.

Making holes is possible using two methods:

Consecutive contouring of a pre-marked circle with a diameter 2-3 mm larger than the size of the socket box.
Using a special crown with diamond or pobedite teeth.

The work is not difficult, but it will require following the sequence of actions:

The hole for the socket box is marked with a necessarily designated center.
The direction of the groove is outlined - the recess for the cable channel.
The depth of the socket is measured and marked on the drill with an allowance of about 3-5 mm using a strip of electrical tape.
The central hole is drilled.
Holes are drilled sequentially along the contour of the circle.
The distances between them should be kept as small as possible.
The central part of the socket is knocked out with a chisel and hammer.

Cutting the grooves is done with a hammer drill with a special blade-shaped attachment that forms a neat groove.

The process is quite lengthy, noisy, but effective.

Crown for socket boxes

Using a crown makes it possible to form a neat circle around the socket. Usually a crown with a diameter of 65 mm is used, corresponding standard size socket box.

Using a crown makes marking easier - just mark the center of the hole and drill a hole with a diameter of 7-8 mm.

The crown goes deep into the wall to a sufficient distance with a small margin (3-5 mm).

The nest is removed using a chisel. Dense, stubborn concrete is not easy to knock out; several additional holes in the center will help ease the effort. Sometimes you have to almost completely drill out the central part.

The process is noisy, slow, but quite effective.

Regular drill

Using a drill will not create the desired effect. A drill with a carbide tip is much stronger than a regular drill, but working with concrete is too difficult for it.

The exception is soft materials used for the manufacture of interior partitions:

Foam concrete;
Brickwork;
Slag or gypsum blocks.

The carbide drill is capable of working with soft views concrete.

Installation of socket boxes: installation rules

Procedure:

Marking;
Outlining nests;
Knocking out the central parts with a chisel.

Instead of a crown, various attachments with circular saws of suitable diameter can be used.

The production of grooves is done by creating multiple entries to a shallow depth (1.5-2 cm), located on the axis of the future wire.

The entries are connected to each other by pulling a rotating drill at an angle along the channel line. It is more convenient to make two narrow strips, passed at a distance of about 1 cm from each other, and then remove the jumper between them.

A plastic cable channel is installed inside the grooves, or wires are laid in double insulation.

Both options are equally possible, choose the one that is convenient for you.

Sawing with a grinder

Using an angle grinder, colloquially called an angle grinder, is not the best the best option, but if there are no other options, it will do.

The technique for making a socket is significantly different from the methods used when working with a hammer drill or electric drill.

The grinder does not allow you to make a neat hole round shape the required diameter.

We have to work with more rough, approximate methods. But making grooves for the socket box is easier, since the grinder makes straight grooves perfectly. Procedure:

Marking the wall;
Drilling grooves;
Outlining a square with a side 2-3 mm larger than the outer diameter of the socket box;
Removing the center of the square, the inner strip of the groove;
Installation of socket box and cable duct;
Filling up extra space sand-cement mortar, plaster, alabaster mixture.

Safety

Working with concrete is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust and small fragments of stone.

The sharp edges of the particles are dangerous to the eyes and respiratory system, so you must use safety glasses and a respirator (gauze mask). Working with power tools requires compliance with specific safety rules.

Do not use faulty tools that have damaged power cords.

When operating with a hammer and chisel, you must ensure that the hammer is firmly attached to the handle.

Keep the chisel perpendicular to the surface being worked. The riveted ends of the chisel must be removed.

Important points

Dust formation is a serious problem that arises during work. Using a vacuum cleaner can significantly reduce the volume of dust and small particles.

It is recommended to moisten hard, dense grades of concrete (on load-bearing walls) with water during work. The material generates less dust and becomes more pliable.

Watch the detailed video:

Drilling of holes must be carried out with full confidence that there is no danger of damage to the electrical cable.

If there are thick reinforcing bars in the walls, it is recommended to use a diamond-coated drill bit. It slowly but reliably overcomes the reinforcement.

Let's do

When installing modern sockets or indoor switches, their mechanisms must be placed in a special plastic box - a socket box. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.

Agree that one socket in the kitchen is no longer enough, and sockets installed at different ends of the wall are not always convenient to use.

Therefore, electrical equipment is often designed in such a way that several points for connecting household appliances are located in one place. It is very practical and functional.

When installing a socket block, professionals always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows.

But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation it is difficult to install the sockets in the boxes, due to the fact that they overlap each other.

In this case, the decorative frame also does not fall into place.

This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not maintained. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the socket boxes should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number of boxes, they begin to move relative to each other or become deformed under the action of the putty mixture.

Good afternoon dear friends!

I am again pleased to welcome you to the Electrician in the House website. In this article we will talk about one simple and, at the same time, useful thing for installation of socket boxes in brick walls, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professional electrical installers know how difficult it is sometimes to evenly install a block of five sockets.

Using a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install socket boxes with millimeter accuracy.

Such things are not produced by industrial enterprises, so craftsmen independently make homemade products suitable for them. In electrician slang this device is called template for installing socket boxes. There are also names such as conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.

Strip for installing socket boxes

Most plastic boxes for mounting sockets have dimensions of 68 mm in diameter and a depth of about 45 mm.

Boxes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but all have the same functionality - when assembled into a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.

To prevent the boxes from dancing relative to each other during installation, they must be firmly fixed to each other.

How are the boxes assembled into a block? Let's consider socket boxes from Schneider Electric for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front there are special latches for joining several boxes.

You can also join the boxes using special connectors - plugs.

At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes into a block, the required center-to-center dimensions are automatically obtained.

Why is some kind of template needed for installing socket boxes? Everything fits together perfectly.

However, it should be taken into account that in order to secure the socket box, the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket box itself must be filled with mortar.

Therefore, the solution is placed in excess in the nest. And when you begin to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out of all the cracks, filling the voids, resulting in a very strong fixation of the socket box.

At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.

Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly leveled so that the ends do not stick out or are recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing a socket block with bare hands, this can be done, but it takes a lot of time and effort.

It was to solve such problems that I made myself such a device as a template for installing socket boxes, which saves not only time, but also nerves.

How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands

Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device.

To do this, I took an aluminum corner measuring 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket boxes installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10 - 15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five socket boxes, so I took a corner 60 cm long.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, much less from aluminum.

You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, whoever has what, for example, a pipe profile. The convenience of an aluminum template is its lightness. By the way, the idea arose to make a model from a DIN rail, there is no need to drill holes.

Now you need to mark a line in the center of the rib where the boxes will be attached. Using a tape measure, find the center on both sides of the corner and mark a line with a pencil.

Along the marked line we will drill holes for fastening the socket boxes using self-tapping screws.

Our template for installing socket boxes almost ready. Let's start drilling the holes. To do this, we can use a screwdriver and a 3 mm metal drill.

We retreat 12 cm from the edge of the corner and drill the first hole.

To prevent the drill from slipping from the intended drilling site, I recommend that it be centered.

Then we measure the distance between the centers of the socket box screws and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, we drill holes for all socket boxes in the block.

Trying the box on the bar

We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes.

How to fix a socket box in a concrete wall

During installation, this will help press the entire structure against the wall.

Now let’s attach all the socket boxes to the finished layout, we get a smooth structure that can be inserted into the wall without distortions or bends.

Let's see what distance we have between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:

To install a block of socket boxes, using a template, pour a little mortar into the hole in the wall, insert the wires into the socket boxes and attach the template to the wall.

First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.

You can make sharpenings along the edges to make it convenient align the template horizontally.

I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you make installation easier and faster.

Who has any opinions? Maybe someone is already using this design or has opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.

In the happily forgotten times of global shortages, hidden sockets were installed forever. The block with terminals was literally walled up in concrete or brick wall. Sometimes without a mounting box at all. Ordinary citizens had no right to dream about repairing an electrical point with their own hands. Nowadays, a beginner in electrical engineering can handle fixing and connecting the upgraded device without any problems. The developers of the sockets have thoroughly thought out and polished the entire process of their installation. An important point in the process is the installation of socket boxes, thanks to which repair and replacement of devices does not cause negligible difficulties.

Criteria for selecting an installation box

The supply of wires must be formed into loops or “soft” folds. The formation of sharp creases is extremely undesirable. The loops should be placed at the bottom of the installation box so that the wire sections stripped of insulation do not touch.

The current-carrying cores of wires with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters or more of the specified size are quite rigid. Rolling them up and laying them in loops under the socket block will be very problematic if the internal depth of the socket box is 15-30 usable cm. This means that to install an socket connected to a source with a thick cable, a deeper socket box will be required.

Algorithm for installing a socket box in a solid wall

It’s easier for owners of wooden baths. The requirements of the PUE recommended the device for them open wiring and installation of overhead sockets. They will not have any special complications with either laying the power line or attaching the supply points. Owners of cultural and hygienic objects made of concrete or brick will have to go through a thorny and labor-intensive path. But before you move in the chosen direction, you should figure out how to install a socket box in a solid wall.

Starting stage: marking

For a home handyman who is ignorant of the intricacies of organizing bath wiring, marking undoubtedly seems like the simplest process. But no. You will have to follow the code of laws of the PUE:

in steam rooms and washing rooms, shower compartments and saunas, the installation of plug-type sockets with all necessary accessories is prohibited;
The bathhouse electrical network must be connected to the grounding circuit or to lightning protection;
the socket should be removed at least 60 cm from the doorway of the shower stall located in the bathhouse;
The power supply for the bath wiring may be installed in the rest room;
The shield should be equipped with a automatic device or other means of protection.

There is advice that is not specified in the PUE rules, but has a technically justified right to exist. It is better to connect the cable to the outlet from below so that drops of condensation do not accidentally flow into the device. Especially if, due to an incorrectly installed socket box, there are gaps between the protective frame and the wall. The height of the outlet is selected arbitrarily in the range of 30 – 60 cm from the floor line. This parameter does not have any limits: i.e. We install it in a way that is convenient for us to use.

It was not in vain that we talked about inserting the cable into the socket box. After all, a fine will need to be chiseled under it, which also applies to labor-intensive and dusty tasks. The cable costs money. Then you have to seal the furrow with plaster, alabaster or cement mortar. Again costs. This means that in the name of cutting costs, you need to figure out in advance how to rationally arrange the power line, and then:

we will draw on the wall the shortest path for the future movement of the electrodes and determine on it the optimal point for mounting the box;
through the selected point we draw a horizontal line with a vertical line, controlling our own intuition with a level gauge, a square and a plumb line;
from the center of their intersection we will set aside segments equal to the outer radius of the socket box;
Let's attach this installation box to the wall, turning its back towards us;
Let's combine the marked points with the edges of the box and draw its outline on the hay.

Well prepared. Now you can begin to form the grooves and the main hole.

"Drilling and crushing" process

You can drill a concrete wall with a grinder. But it is much more useful to stock up on a hammer drill with a diamond bit, which is used to form wide holes. We drew some semblance of a carbine sight on the wall for a reason. The central point of the drawing is needed to ensure that the drill bit of the annular bit hits the designated location correctly. The drill will drill into the thickness of the wall first and direct the crown in the right direction. Let's not forget about the drilling depth limiter. It will automatically shut down the tool when it reaches its intended target. We calculate the depth by adding 1.5 cm to the height of the socket to apply adhesive solution to the bottom of the hole.

The sequence of drilling a hole for the installation box:

we will wet a section of the wall if our bit is not intended for dry drilling of concrete structures;
We will equip the hammer drill with the drill we have;
install the drill at the designated point;
Sticking to the “rotation with impact” mode, let’s start with a couple of test runs;
We drill the wall until the tool stops.

In the absence of a hammer drill, you can use an impact drill, and to make several narrow holes nearby and modify the recess to required sizes chisel In general, you can only “make holes” in the wall with a chisel, but this is tedious and takes too long.

Direct installation of the mounting box

Let's try the installation box to the formed hole. Don't let the depth reserve scare you. Plaster, cement mortar or alabaster will help align everything with the wall. Construction alabaster hardens too quickly for the inexperienced hands of a home craftsman. It is better to secure the box in the hole using plaster.
Having made sure that the work with the hole for the socket box has been successfully completed, we will bring the hole to it along the drawn path. It’s better to cut through it with a grinder and finish it off with a chisel.
Let's break out the hatch in the sidewall intended by the box manufacturer. We will then pull the cable through the resulting hole.
Clean the drilled hole from cement dust and treat it with a primer.
We apply plaster into the hole without ostentatious generosity.
We insert the socket box into the hole so that the broken hatch for introducing the cable is opposite the hole. We press down the box until it is flush with the “damaged” wall.
After 7-10 minutes, remove excess plaster and level the surface with a spatula.
We wait a couple of hours for the plaster to harden, then we connect the wiring to the box.
Let's lay the cable along the groove intended for it, calculating that it needs to be inserted approximately 20 cm into the socket box.
To temporarily fix the cable in the groove, we use alabaster, because it sets quickly. We apply alabaster patches every half meter.
Having retreated approximately 5 cm from the outline of the hole for the box, we fix the cable with a plastic bracket for reliability.

At the end, we insert the power line into the hatch of the socket box and... we peacefully rub our hands, because the installation of the box is completed.

We install the rosettes for the socket cable in exactly the same way. We just drill a large hole, having first drawn out all the contours of the boxes on the wall. For two sockets located in a row, a wonderful alternative is sold - a box with “two seats”.

The process of installing a socket box in a hollow wall

Hidden electrical wiring is laid not only in monolithic walls, but also in hollow partitions made of plasterboard or other sheet material. For installation, socket boxes with spacer tabs are then used, ensuring perfect fixation of the box in the hollow wall.

Drilling wide holes will now require a drywall drill bit. You can attach it not to a hammer drill, but simply to a drill. There is no need to cut the grooves at all; the cable will lie freely between the sheets attached to the metal frame.

We proceed according to the following scheme:

In the box, by analogy with the method described above, we break out the hatch.
We insert the socket box into the formed hole and insert the cable through the hatch.
We tighten the two mounting screws that tighten the legs of the box. They will rest against the wall material on the back side. We do not tighten the screws all the way at once, but tighten them one by one. First, we will tighten one of them a little, then the second, so that there are no distortions due to deformation of the material.

Installation of boxes for soldering units and switches in plasterboard walls is done in exactly the same way.

Additional video instruction

Having sufficiently admired the result of your labor, you can begin connecting the socket mechanism. It can be secured in the socket box either using sliding legs or with simple screws, for screwing which there are threaded holes on the walls of the box. Inexperienced home electricians are better off using screws, because... The fixation with the paws is not very reliable and can disappoint due to the azimuthal misalignment. This means we’ll attach it with screws, close it with a decorative cover on top, and we’ll be happy to use the electrical point we installed ourselves.

In this article we will examine in detail the question of how to install socket box on concrete. Having well-written instructions in your hands, supplemented with detailed photographs and comments from a specialist, solving this issue will not pose any difficulties for you. is the foundation of installation
electrical wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be given special attention.

Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:

Socket boxes for concrete - used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.The installation of the socket box is carried out in a pre-prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of plaster or alabaster.
Socket boxes for plasterboard - used for installation in plasterboard, chipboard, various types of plywood, SML sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket box using the spacer tabs available on it into a pre-prepared hole. You can read the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.

In this article, we will examine in detail how socket boxes are installed on concrete.

Making the markings

Before installing the socket box, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.

Some standards that electricians often use are listed below:

sockets in living rooms - 30 centimeters from the clean floor (the so-called "Euro standard");
sockets above kitchen countertop- 110-120 centimeters;
socket above washing machine- 1 meter;
switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.

However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you wish, according to your taste and discretion.

Let's start installation. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we add +5 centimeters to our dimensions for screed and laminate (linoleum).

For the switch, you can use the hand measuring technique. Approach the place of planned installation, place your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take the average arm length.

Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the socket box. If you plan to install the switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge; 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.

Now, mark all the dimensions with a pencil on the wall.

The marking is completed.

Making a hole for the socket box

All concrete sockets are mounted into the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways in which it can be made. We will look at three of the simplest and most effective.

Method 1. Crown for concrete sockets

The main device for making holes for socket boxes in concrete is a concrete and brick drill bit with a diameter of 70 millimeters.

The standard diameter of the socket is 67 millimeters; some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.

Rice. Crown for socket boxes on concrete

According to the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for socket boxes for concrete has Pobedit teeth, with which it cuts a circle; in the middle there is a Pobedit drill for centering. The crown is installed on a hammer drill or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with impact, a hole is made.

We move the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.

The crown should be completely recessed into the wall.

To facilitate the drilling process, you can first drill a centering hole in the center of the marking of the future socket box with a regular Pobedit drill; in this case, it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.

We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using an impact bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.

We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket box, in which we used a crown for socket boxes for concrete. Let's consider the following method.

Method 2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill

In order to use this method, the first thing you need to do is outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.

Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will be to clean the hole from the wall elements later.

Now, it's up to a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit. We bring the hole to the required size.

Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)

This method is the fastest of all the above, but also the dustiest. I don’t think there’s much need to explain its meaning. It is especially suitable, for example, when installing socket boxes in a concrete wall is required.

The execution process is simple, we take an angle grinder (angle grinder) and off we go.

We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined socket box. Be careful with the wire.

After everything is cut, we knock out the squares from the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket box, so when using this method, be prepared to knock a little.

We adjust the hole to the size of the socket box

After making the hole, we check how the socket box fits into it. Since the diameter of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.

The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket box falls into it a little, about 4-5 millimeters. This reserve is necessary because, in addition to the socket box itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be placed inside the hole, and some space will also be needed for bending the wire entering the socket box.

To make the following stages of work easier after installing the socket box, I recommend cutting off the edges of the made hole. This action can be performed using a knife. Due to the manipulations we have performed, the socket box will be sunk into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform an ideal installation of a socket or switch by maximally pressing its metal mounting frame, and therefore the plastic decorative frame, against the wall. As a rule, a non-recessed socket skirt can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.

Now, you need to insert the wire into the socket box; to do this, we make a small groove for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a groove using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bit. Soft material You can even chop walls with a chisel. In our example, this is exactly what we use.

The strobe is ready.

The wire should be easy to install without interfering with the electrical outlet.

Now, turn the socket box over. On its back we see specially prepared slots for the wire.

Select the one you need and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to run the wire from the back of the socket box; this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and protect the wire from damage.

The hole is made.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.

Nothing should interfere and let me remind you, there should be a reserve of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.

Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to preparing the gypsum solution.

Preparation of gypsum solution

To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.

For our purposes you can use:

building gypsum
medical plaster
alabaster

Let's pour a small amount of plaster into a container.

You should get a homogeneous, creamy mixture of medium thickness.

The resulting solution has a very short time for use; literally after 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will no longer be suitable for use.

Installation of a socket box

Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket box in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be thoroughly moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and washes away fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed for 2-3 minutes.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should cover well back wall the socket box being squeezed out of the slots of the holes.

We align it so that the screws are located horizontally to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation depth by placing a level with the flat side to the wall diagonally across the socket box. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with installing the socket or switch.

The main fixation has been completed, so we do not move the glass of the socket box anymore, otherwise the solution will not set and the socket box will not be properly fixed.

Now let's do additional fixation laying the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket box. You need to not just coat the solution around, but rather put it in the gaps.

Now, you can smear it around.

The socket is installed.

We wait for it to dry completely and only then remove the excess solution that got inside the socket. When dry, it separates well from the plastic.

I would like to note that the installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is carried out similarly to the example discussed. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with an angle grinder (angle grinder), method 3.

The next step is, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.

If you are interested in more detailed description connections and installations various elements electrical wiring (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including backlit ones, chandeliers, lamps, bathroom exhaust fans) will be of interest to you.

How to install a double socket box

To install two sockets in one frame, the installation of two socket boxes is required. Let us consider in detail how this type of installation is performed.

Docking with each other is done using a connector (butterfly).

There are special grooves on the side of the socket boxes into which they are inserted.

In this way you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.

For our example, we only need two. We make markings. We measure the distance from the floor.

Using the level on required height draw a straight horizontal strip.

Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.

The difference from installing a single socket box is that after making the hole, you need to connect the two holes to each other. This is done so that the connector connecting the two socket boxes fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.

After making the holes, just as in the example of installing a single socket box, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the groove.

The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to a single socket box.

The last point that is worth paying special attention to is the strict approach to aligning them horizontally when fixed with plaster. It is necessary to plant on gypsum mortar only with a level higher than more quantity socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.

The installation of various electrical wiring elements is described in as detailed and colorful a manner as possible.

To complete the work we used:

Material

plaster, alabaster
socket box