What's the best way to do wiring in a garage? How to make electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands - from diagram to installation. Garage Lighting System Installation Methods

Whatever you say, you can’t do without electricity in the garage. Even if you only show up there a couple of times a day for five minutes to pick up and then park the car. After all, you won’t be driving the car in the dark, and besides, you need to charge the battery periodically. Well, for most owners, the garage is a second home. Therefore, such a question as wiring in the garage was, is and remains relevant. Let's talk about this in more detail, how to do it, where to start, what requirements and rules to follow?

Power supply diagram

Before wiring the garage, Special attention Pay attention to the power supply diagram. Whatever the structure - a huge house or a small garage - you should always start with it. First of all, draw a schematic drawing of your room. What should be reflected on it?

The entrance line that goes to the garage building.
The places where the lamps will be installed are the garage itself, a pit for inspecting the car, a cellar. Perhaps, on some kind of machine (lathe, drilling) you will need additional lighting.
Position distribution panel, it is best to install it at the entrance. When you leave the premises, you can safely turn off the power and immediately go outside, rather than sneaking through the entire garage in the dark.

Planned locations for outlets (near a workbench, work table or machine, in another place where you may need to connect power tools).
Approximate garage wiring route (that is, which way you plan to route the wires from the distribution panel to the lights and outlets).
If you have mechanical machines and a compressor for inflating tires in your garage, then show their location on the diagram, because separate lines from individual machines will need to be connected to these current collectors.

The electrical wiring diagram in the garage is done in order to clearly determine the number necessary materials– sockets, switches, automatic machines, lamps, distribution boxes.

You will make a list, go to several electrical goods stores, calmly decide on prices and select high-quality, affordable switching devices and wires.

Also, the electrical wiring diagram in the garage will help you determine the maximum load. You will calculate the total power of all electricity consumers and select the correct input and output cables and circuit breakers based on cross-section and rated current.

Lightning protection

Any buildings must be protected from lightning strikes, and the garage is no exception.

Protection of large residential and industrial buildings is carried out permanently during the construction of buildings. When the garage is nearby high-rise building, then, in principle, nothing bad will happen if there is no lightning rod on it. It is unlikely that lightning will hit it. In the case where a garage cooperative is being built, lightning protection is also carried out centrally. But if it is located separately, away from tall buildings, take care of installing a lightning rod even before you start installing electrical wiring in the garage.

You won't have any particular difficulties here. The whole system consists of three main elements:

lightning receiver;
a conductor that drains current to the ground;
ground electrode.

A steel rod with a diameter of at least 1 cm and a length of at least 20 cm is used as a receiver. It is mounted in a vertical position at the highest place in the garage. The use of a steel rod is due to the fact that at the moment of a lightning strike, the material of the receiver must withstand mechanical and thermal load.

The rod is connected to the current-carrying conductor; this is done by welding, soldering or a bolt with a nut. The shortest path must be chosen between the receiver and the ground electrode.

Grounding electrodes can be artificial or natural. In the case of a garage, the option of a natural ground electrode is unlikely to be suitable, since various pipelines are most often used as it. Old springs, metal rods and corners are suitable for installing an artificial ground electrode.

The ground electrode must be buried in the ground. The distance from it to entrance gate in the garage and paths along which people constantly walk should be no less than 5 m.

According to the rules, within a radius of 4 m, the ground electrode must be fenced so that in the event of a lightning strike, a person does not fall into the action zone of the step voltage.

Most often, metal rods are used as a grounding conductor. Their size depends on what kind of soil is in a given place and how close they come to the surface groundwater. In the case when the soil is dry and the water level is low, it will be enough to take rods 2-3 m long. They are driven into the ground, and at a depth of 0.5 m they are tied together using a metal jumper.

Lighting

Do-it-yourself lighting wiring in the garage can be done without any difficulties. Especially if you have a garage only for storing a car, in this case a couple of lamps are generally enough.

If you spend all your free time in the garage, doing car repairs and other work, then in addition to the main lighting fixtures on the ceiling you may need additional ones on the walls. It is also advisable to install another lighting device above the entrance to the garage. And also, if you have various machines there, then lamps directly above these workstations will not be superfluous.

It would be rational to place fluorescent lamps on the side walls and connect them to a two-key switch. One key turns on one side, the second - the other. This is very convenient if the car is parked inside the garage and you need to do some work on one side, for example, change wheels, work on fenders or doors. Turn on the desired side of the lighting with one key and sit quietly, then switch to the other side in exactly the same way.

For lighting wiring in the garage with your own hands, you can install the following lamps:

models NBP, PSH, NPO, NSP, designed for incandescent lamps;
LPO and LSP models of fluorescent lamps;
the most profitable LED lights, they have the most long term operation, with low power consumption. They work at any temperature, but there is one drawback - the price; such lighting devices are not cheap.

Remember that metal housings of lighting fixtures must be grounded.

If you install light sources at a height below 2 m from the floor level, they must be protected from accidental mechanical damage.

Rules for installing wiring for utility rooms

Often garage capital buildings equipped with pits for inspecting machines and basements. Therefore, before you do electrical wiring in the garage, familiarize yourself with some of the nuances and rules specifically for these rooms.

To ensure safe operation of the lighting wiring in the inspection pit and basement, it must be powered using a 220/36 V step-down transformer. Due to the fact that these rooms are deep and damp, the transformer itself should be located at the entrance gate to the garage or near the distribution panel .

In dry basements, 220 V voltage can be used for lighting, but the connection must be made through a differential circuit breaker or RCD.

Lighting wiring in the garage for the basement and inspection room is carried out open method on the surfaces of ceilings and walls, the use of pipes or electrical boxes made of plastic is allowed.

The basement and inspection pit must be connected from the distribution panel by two independent lines. It is prohibited to install switching devices in them. If absolutely necessary, then in dry inspection pits and basements it is allowed to install sockets and switches with a protection class of at least IP 44.

The inspection pit has cramped dimensions, so make niches for mounting lamps. When this is not possible, use lamps with a protective grille. When using portable additional lights, connect them using a step-down transformer (36 V) or a car battery (12 V).

Main elements of the distribution panel

How to properly assemble a distribution panel in a garage? Most often, car and garage owners simplify the circuit and make do with only circuit breakers, neglecting other protection elements. Yes, it is much cheaper, but not always justified. It is desirable that the following main elements be mounted in the panel:

Circuit breakers. Their installation is mandatory, as this is the main protection against short circuits and overloads. If you have a very old garage with one light bulb in the center and one socket, you can get by with just an introductory machine. But for modern garages this is no longer enough, since you often have to use various power tools, heating systems, chargers and starting devices.

In the scheme, outgoing circuit breakers located after the metering device.

Residual current devices (RCDs), which are connected together with ordinary circuit breakers, or differential circuit breakers. Their main purpose is to protect people from leakage currents that occur in the event of damage to the insulation of electrical wiring. Installing such protective elements is especially important if you have to work with electrified tools in the basement or inspection hole, Where environment has high humidity.

Relay for voltage control. In garage cooperatives there are a lot of craftsmen who make something from morning to evening. Not always among them are only first-class professionals; there are also those who have “crazy hands,” which is why electrical faults often occur in garages. For example, if the zero is broken in a three-phase circuit, increased voltage will appear, which in turn can lead to the burning of motors and lighting lamps. A relay that controls the voltage in such a situation will automatically de-energize your circuit and save the equipment.
Surge suppressors. They are installed if the garage is powered from an overhead power line. During a thunderstorm, the line can be struck by lightning. The arresters installed on the overhead line must extinguish the incoming potential, but the residual value can still affect the wiring. In this case, limiters will save the circuit; they will divert the increased potential to the ground circuit. These protective elements are installed between the input machine and the meter. If there are no limiters, when a thunderstorm approaches, turn off the input circuit breaker in the garage.

Internal wiring

If at the time of construction of the garage, hidden wiring was immediately installed in it, then you can quite use it, only by improving it according to your scheme. If there is none, then don’t waste your time, don’t ditch the walls, do the wiring in an open way.

Choose a cable with copper cores and a sheath made of non-combustible materials, the VVGng brand is suitable, lay it in cable ducts, corrugated or metal pipes.

For a lighting load, a cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 will be sufficient, for sockets 2.5-4 mm 2.

Single phase wiring

Do-it-yourself single-phase electrical wiring in a garage is simple; the diagram looks something like this:

The input cable comes to the distribution panel and is connected to the input contacts of the general circuit breaker. For a single-phase power supply of 220 V, a two- or three-wire wire is sufficient, and a two-pole machine with a rated current of 25 A or 32 A is best suited.
After it, an electric energy meter is installed, to which the phase and neutral wires are connected.
After the counter, the zero goes to the zero busbar, and the phase goes to the outgoing single-pole circuit breakers.
All zeros of differential automatic machines and RCDs are connected to the zero bus.
Lighting is powered through single-pole circuit breakers, and sockets are powered through differential circuit breakers.

As a rule, all electrical equipment in a regular garage consists of two or three circuit breakers for lighting (garage room, pit, cellar) and two differential circuit breakers for socket groups. Keep in mind that differential circuit breakers can be replaced with residual current devices (RCDs) in conjunction with ordinary circuit breakers.

Three-phase wiring

Many garage owners not only store their car there and occasionally work on it, but also perform various works using special electrical equipment. In this case, the electrical wiring in the garage will need three-phase (380 V). With this option, electricity is supplied to the distribution panel by a four- or five-core input cable.

The wires of the line brought into the garage are connected to a three-phase input circuit breaker, after which there is an electricity meter in the circuit, then another general three-phase circuit breaker.

To connect single-phase lighting circuit breakers, take one phase from a common circuit breaker. Just distribute the load evenly, do not connect all single-pole circuit breakers to one phase. For this switching, you will only need a two- or three-wire wire (one wire is protective grounding).

380 V line for connecting three-phase electrical appliances perform with a four- or five-wire conductor (here the fifth wire will be for protective grounding).

Video about installing electricity in a garage

Remember! When there are no people in the garage, the power supply must be turned off. This is required by fire safety equipment.

We briefly told you how to do the wiring in the garage with your own hands. As you can see, this is not a house or a bathhouse, everything here is much simpler, you can do it yourself without the help of professionals. Although, if your garage is located in a cooperative community, rest assured, there will be helpers there.

Even in simple garage lighting is necessary, but if the wiring is installed on a quick fix, it would be unreasonable to expect it to be reliable and fireproof. When creating proper working conditions in this room, one must not neglect the rules for working with electrical wiring, otherwise the consequences can be the most unpredictable. In this article we will tell you how to do electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands, adhering to the standards and regulations.

Types of garages and methods of connecting to power supply

Depending on where the garage is located, the way it is connected to the electrical supply may vary.

In cooperative garages

In auto cooperatives, each garage has a power supply, the condition of which must be taken care of by an electrician, but as for indoor wiring, here you can improvise, of course, within the permissible limits. Therefore, you will have to develop an individual wiring diagram, taking into account the allocated or maximum permissible power.

Find out what power the machine is installed at the input. If 10 A, then you can only count on the fact that in the garage, in addition to lighting, it will be possible to connect a low-power drill, grinder and the like to the network, and even then not at the same time. When the input machine is designed for an operating current of 16 A, then it will be possible to use low-power household electric welding for a short time. With a 25 A circuit breaker installed, there will be no special power restrictions.

In a private house

As a rule, the garage of a private house is connected to the power supply through a common circuit breaker. When calculating the power of electrical equipment that will be connected in the garage, it is necessary to take into account the power consumption of appliances located in the house. If this is not just a garage, but a car repair shop in which electric welding work will be carried out, then the do-it-yourself electrical wiring diagram in the garage should include a separate 220 or 380 V line.

Making a wiring diagram

To properly create a wiring diagram, make a list of electrical appliances that you plan to use in the garage. The number of lamps and their location must be taken into account.

If the garage is used only for parking and minor car repairs, then there is no need for a large number of sockets and lamps, but you also don’t need to save much. You can install several sockets above the workbench or near the entrance and two-gang switch so that the lighting lines can be divided into groups.

A multi-use garage should have good lighting and plenty of conveniently located outlets. It is also necessary to ensure safe lighting of the inspection pit.

What to include in the diagram?

Any garage must have an RCD (residual current device) installed. Although this device is not cheap, it will protect the owner from electric shock. The rated current of the RCD must be selected in accordance with the load current of the electrical wiring line, otherwise the device may not operate at the right time.

Also, you should not save on purchasing circuit breakers - it is better that each line is connected separately. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the total power of the connected devices so that the cross-section of the wire to be laid can be calculated.

Simple scheme

Often, owners of garages used only for car storage are limited to installing a twin circuit breaker at the entrance, one or two sockets and several lamps, which are controlled by one key switch. This scheme has its advantages: to pick up a car from the garage or put it there, you just need to turn on one switch, and the light will be on throughout the entire room.

One socket is connected directly to the machines, the second is included in the same circuit with the lamps. When leaving the garage, you can be sure that when you turn off the lights, you have cut off the power to the distant outlet. Even if the garage owner accidentally forgets to turn off the charger, it will turn off along with the light. The simplicity of the design implies some limitations. So, all 4 lamps will turn on at the same time, and the second socket is only suitable for powering low-power devices through it, otherwise the switch contacts will burn out.

Now let's consider electrical diagram garage with inspection hole. There are 5 lines coming from the input electrical panel:

Socket group 1.
Socket group 2.
Lighting group 1.
Lighting group 2.
Lighting of the inspection pit.

The electrical panel contains an input circuit breaker, an RCD and several circuit breakers - each for its own group. As for the lighting of the inspection pit, it is carried out through a transformer that reduces the voltage to 12 or 36V.

Video: wiring diagrams

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On the Internet you can find photos of a wide variety of electrical wiring diagrams in the garage.

Purchasing consumables

Having drawn up a diagram, purchase everything you need to complete the work. We will do this thoroughly and for a long time, so we will consider installing hidden wiring. To be fair, there are other ways to run wires in the garage that you can read about.

In order not to waste precious time and effort in vain, purchase or rent a wall chaser and a hammer drill with a set of drills and a concrete bit, the diameter of which will allow you to install socket boxes and distribution boxes in the holes cut with it. We won’t even talk about a chisel and a hammer, since such a tool should be in any garage.

For further work you will need:

Distribution panel – 1 pc.
Electricity meter – 1 pc. (if needed).
RCD – 1 pc.
Socket boxes - according to the number of mortise switches and sockets.
Distribution boxes - in each place where there will be a outlet for sockets and switches.
Automatic switches - type and quantity according to the diagram. It may be necessary to install some machines separately, for example, near grinding machine, compressor, etc.
Wiring. It is better to purchase a copper three-core wire. For lighting - 1.5 mm2. For sockets - 2.5 mm2. For wiring in the garage to the panel - 4 mm2. Quantity - according to the scheme + 10% for unaccounted terminals in distribution boxes and socket boxes. In order to power more powerful consumers, it is recommended to run a separate wiring line from the distribution panel to the desired location.
Corrugated PVC pipes under electrical wiring. The diameter and quantity are selected to match the existing wiring. If the wiring will pass through flammable materials, then a metal corrugated pipe should be laid in such places.
If there is a point in the garage for connecting 380V electrical equipment, then you need to take care of purchasing a specific outlet and the appropriate cable.
Sockets. Their number should be sufficient for convenient use. It is important to remember that there can be several lamps above the workbench - they can be connected either through junction boxes or directly into sockets.
Switch. Someone prefers to turn off the lighting in the garage with one switch, another likes to divide it into several groups, and a third installs a switch under each lamp - everyone can do it in a way that is convenient for them to use.

You can make a distribution panel yourself, like the author of this video:

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Installation

It is quite possible to install electrical wiring in a garage with your own hands, as you will now see.

So, the diagram is there, the tools and materials are prepared - you can start working.

We will mark the walls in the places where the wiring will pass, and switches, sockets and distribution boxes will be installed. It is important to remember that laying the wire obliquely is undesirable. Then, if you need to fix something on the wall, it will be difficult to determine where the wire runs in the wall - it is better to make all the bends at right angles.
After marking the walls, check the diagram again to make sure nothing is missing.
Drive the car into the garage and check if the sockets and lights are conveniently located. If not, then mark the places where it would be better to install them. Will a light mounted on the ceiling or wall adequately illuminate the engine so that the oil level can be checked.
Now the car is not needed, and it is better if it is located outside the garage.
All holes for distribution boxes and socket boxes are made using a suitable size crown.
According to the applied markings, the grooves are cut out, then the excess is removed with a hammer drill. construction material by cutting depth. The result should be a groove in which the intended for it will hide. corrugated pipe.

Now you can carry out electrical wiring in the garage, which will help step-by-step instruction. Let’s immediately make a reservation that professionals first lay the corrugation in the wall, install the socket boxes, and then tighten the cable. But if this is the first time you are laying electrical wiring in a garage with your own hands, then it is better to adhere to the technology we propose.

Having bent the end of the wire protruding from the corrugation, the corrugation itself is placed in the groove so that it fits into the socket boxes.
The marked piece of corrugation is cut off, and the end of the wire is bent so that it does not fall inside.
Then the wire is threaded into the corrugation so that there are free ends on both sides - 15 centimeters each. You can learn more about this process by watching the video.

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The corrugation with the wire is placed in the groove and covered with alabaster. Similar actions are performed with the remaining wire.
Then the wire along with the corrugation is inserted into the sockets/distribution boxes, and only after that they are installed and secured with alabaster. In those places where lamps will be installed on the wall, the wire is simply routed out.
After installing the input panel, the wires are connected to the machines. To make it easier to navigate and not confuse anything, each wire must be labeled, indicating what it is intended for in this circuit.

When wiring in a garage is done by a non-specialist, problems often arise with connecting the RCD. A selection of two videos will help you avoid mistakes when connecting this device.

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After connecting the wires, it is advisable to check again whether everything is assembled correctly in the panel.
Now you can turn on the introductory machine, then the RCD and all the machines in turn.
If the installation is done correctly, then all connection points should work.

As you can see, even a non-professional can cope with this work. If, after reading this, you still continue to doubt your abilities and your palms begin to sweat at the mere thought of working with electricity, then it’s better to invite a specialist.

In the garage there is always a need to connect various devices and power tools, and additional lighting of the room is also necessary.
Therefore, the installation of electrical wiring in a garage has some features and differences that must be taken into account at the design stage. Where there will be powerful consumers, for example a welding machine or a washing unit.
Electrical installation must be arranged in accordance with all rules for such premises.

You can install electrical wiring in the garage yourself, but you need to understand some of the features, study the materials and have at least a little understanding of electrical engineering.
Electrical wiring must first and foremost be safe, as well as reliable and functional. In addition, if possible, it should be hidden, that is, the most the best option involves placing the wire in grooves under a layer of cement plaster.

But all this is possible only for brick and concrete garages, but what to do if the garage is metal? In such cases, wiring is installed in corrugated pipes, metal hoses, or, in extreme cases, in plastic boxes.
In addition, such a metal garage must be equipped with a potential equalization system, simply a grounding bus connected to the ground, grounding sockets and to the garage body. The resistance of such grounding should be no more than 4 ohms.

For garages in which there is a high level of humidity, there will be a need for special electrical accessories, for example, sockets with moisture protection (degree of protection IP44).

Well, if the garage involves some kind of workshop with powerful machines, it would be a good idea to think about connecting a three-phase input. But this is a completely different story, and here it all starts with the fact that you need to contact your energy service organization and obtain permission for three-phase input.

Wiring diagram

Before putting marks on the wall, you need to think through everything and draw up an electrical wiring plan, where the input panel will be located, how many and what kind of sockets, where they will be placed, and a lighting plan. To do this, you need to take into account some features:

The wire is laid strictly vertically or horizontally, with right angles

The routes are laid at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ceiling and 15 cm from the heating pipes.

The height of the switches is 1.5 meters from the floor and 10-15 cm from the corner or doors.

At least two lines must be in the electrical panel, these are lighting and sockets. Mandatory installation of an RCD at the input. If necessary, the socket line can be divided into two lines: regular sockets and a power socket, for example for welding machine or any powerful machine.

Give preference to a three-phase system if possible. The usual single-phase 220 may not be sufficient if powerful devices and machines are planned.

The lighting of the inspection pit, if there is one, should be 12 volt, since there is high humidity in the pit and condensation is even possible in the summer. Otherwise, when lighting at 220 volts or, if necessary, installing an outlet there, you need special sealed lamps and a separate line equipped with an RCD with an operating current of no more than 10 mA.

Material counting

After successfully drawing up a plan on paper, we move on to counting necessary materials, electrical wiring, accessories.

First of all, we determine the amount of cable; it must be both internal and external (for laying the entrance to the garage)
As for external wiring, it depends on the power of the expected load in the garage and on the type of input (three-phase or single-phase), but in any case, if you choose copper wire, then it must have a cross-section of at least 4 square meters. mm. Well, if it’s aluminum, then it’s no less than 6 square meters. mm.
If the entrance to the garage will be carried out by an overhead line from building to building, or from an electric pole to the garage, it is more convenient and economical to use SIP-16 wire; it is aluminum but of sufficient thickness and, moreover, does not require fastening to a metal cable - it is self-supporting .

After counting the wires to the input panel in the garage, we decide on the internal wiring.
We connect 2.5 mm copper wires to a regular socket. , to light switches and lamps - 1.5 mm, but for a powerful socket, as mentioned above, there should be at least one and you can place it right next to the panel, the wire cross-section for it is at least 4 mm. sq.

The length of the cables must be calculated with a reserve for each point+ 15-20 cm for connections.

We count the socket switches. There must be at least two switches, one for general lighting, better than two keyboards with two levels of light, and one for the viewing hole.

The number of lamps depends on the volume of the room and the required level of lighting; it is better to make a large supply of light but with a dual control mode - a two-key switch. Light sources can be either long fluorescent bulbs in lamps or LED lightening. In the inspection hole, the lamps must be either 12-volt or in a sealed glass bulb.

Depending on the choice of installation and the design of the room, the wiring can be either hidden or external, I do not recommend the latter option, firstly it is ugly, and secondly it is not safe enough, so if possible, you should always give preference to hidden installation. But if the installation of openings needs to be determined by the type and length of fastenings, it will be corrugated, metal hose or cable ducts (duct).

Installation work

First, we transfer all the markings from the plan we drew up to the walls, marking the points, switches, sockets where the incoming electrical panel should be located.
We mark the lines of the routes, it is most convenient to do this with a marking cord that leaves a clear mark, but before starting the groove, if it is carried out with a grinder or wall chaser, the lines need to be additionally scratched, since the chalk from the marking cord will be blown away by the air flow from the wall chaser or hammer drill.

For gating, you can use any of the listed tools or a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the thickness of the cable and, as a rule, it is no more than 2 cm.
Holes for boxes, sockets and switches can also be hollowed out with a chisel, but it is better to use a special concrete crown with pobedit teeth and a hammer drill.

After preparing all the routes and grooves for them, as well as all the holes and space for the input electrical panel, you need to insert the input wire into the electrical panel.

Connecting the input to the garage

Choose suitable way gaskets, it can be overhead, underground or wall.
The most common and most economical method is the air method using a special SIP wire.
It all depends on where you will connect, from a pole or from a house, but if the pulling distance is more than 30 meters, you need to either stretch a thick steel wire with appropriate powerful fasteners or install an intermediate suspension or pole.

the entry height must be at least 2.8m
height above the roadway not less than 5m
height above the sidewalk - more than 3.8m

If your garage is a low building, and the height of the input line is expected to be relatively large, you can enter it through a curved steel pipe (“Gander”), which is placed at a height on the roof of the garage at a height of up to 2 meters.

Underground installation will be much labor-intensive and costly, but if this method is the most optimal, it is necessary to dig a trench and lay a cable of the VBBShV type in it - this is armored copper cable. At the entrance to the room, it is inserted into the hole in the foundation metal pipe the thickness is twice that of the cable itself and the cable is already inserted into it, which is then inserted into the electrical panel.

Garage grounding arrangement

If the garage is metal mandatory presence grounding, but it is better that all garages have it.
The simplest option is a hammered metal rod with a thickness of at least 1.5 cm, preferably 2-3 such rods connected to each other by welding metal plate or thick metal wire with a diameter of at least 8 mm, which is inserted into the garage.

Downstairs, already in the dry room of the garage, a junction box is installed where the bolted connection on a copper wire with a diameter of 4 mm which is already inserted into the electrical panel.

Internal electrical installation

In wooden and metal garages implement hidden wiring almost impossible, so it is done outdoor installation . In some situations when you don’t want to disturb the general condition of the walls, you can also follow this rule
With the external method, all wires are mounted in cable channels or pulled through corrugations and attached to special clips on the wall. External electrical panels and also external switches and sockets are also used.

When choosing hidden installation , a cable is inserted into the already prepared grooves or seams between the bricks, for convenience, it is immediately secured with plastic dowel clamps, supported with nails or immediately grabbed with smears of plaster (alabaster) every 30 cm of the cable.

If you plan to pour a concrete floor screed in the garage, it is possible to lay the wiring under the concrete along the floor, this method provides some advantage in the sense that the walls will be free of wires and there will be a greater opportunity to mount all sorts of elements on the wall without fear of breaking through the wiring.

At the same time, undercutters and junction boxes are installed, which are also “set” on the plaster. The wire is inserted inside with an appropriate margin (15-20cm).
Then the grooves are plastered and after drying, the wires are connected in wiring boxes, sockets, switches, and switching is done in the electrical panel.

If the wiring is routed along brick wall before plaster, then the cable is laid along the intended horizontal lines (without grooves), the wire is simply grabbed with alabaster every 20 cm and recesses are drilled at the locations of sockets and other points.

In which we examined in detail the video lesson and photo examples of electrical installation work. Now I would like to talk more about what the wiring diagram in a 220 V garage should be, because... the process of distributing electricity begins with it.

To begin with, we present to your attention detailed instructions to create a diagram with your own hands:

The first thing you need to do is count the number of sockets, lamps and switches in the room.
Next, you need to consider the installation height of each element. For example, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 1 meter, switches at a height of 1.5 meters, junction box under the ceiling (20 cm from the ceiling).
After this, the plan is transferred to paper. It is best to use a photocopy of the garage plan, because... In this documentation, all dimensions of the room are accurately observed.

That, in fact, is all you need to know in order to do it yourself!

We draw your attention to the fact that if there is an inspection hole in the room, sockets and switches must be moved outside it for safety reasons, because the pit is always damp.

Below you see a typical electrical panel for a garage with 380V wiring (three phases) for connecting machines or a compressor and main 220V wiring . Taking into account the machine for connecting a step-down transformer 220/12V:

And here is the wiring diagram in the garage for 220V:

One of the options for wiring in the garage:

Some explanations for the last option:

To turn on different lighting groups, you can use a two-key switch or two single-key switches.
In the inspection pit there is a separate safety lighting with 12V lamps, which is connected to a step-down transformer. Among ready-made solutions pay attention to nuclear fuel technology.
The YaTP is a box with a step-down transformer that reduces the 220V voltage to a safe 12V. They come with transformers of different powers; in addition, in the box there is a 12V socket and 2-3 circuit breakers to protect the supply network and the power line to the load.
The cross-section of the wires and the number of cores are shown in the diagram; if you have one, use a three-core cable, i.e. for sockets, for example, use VVGng-LS 3x2.5.
IN electrical panel There must be automatic switches (for each group of wires) and an RCD.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to draw a garage wiring diagram with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful and interesting for you!

Without making detailed references to garage electrical standards SNIP And PUE(rules for electrical installations), and other rules, which would make the article cumbersome and difficult to read, it is still necessary to write out the essence.

If it is owned cooperatively, you will need to obtain permission for it. electrification. You can find out more details from the cooperative administration.

To connect to three-phase network 0.4 kV (380 V) please contact your local power supply company. If everything is done according to the rules, then they will draw up a project according to the customer’s requirements. (In fact, such a project arises as a coordination of the customer’s wishes with the possibilities and limitations of the rules.)

You can do the installation yourself electrical wiring in the garage, as well as perform all installation work. But that's only when we're talking about about single-phase network 220 V. To connect a three-phase network you will need permission. And installation to a separate meter will be done by an authorized organization (local electricity supply).

In case of network 220 V take care of a meter designed for current in 50 Amps so that, if necessary, there is a reserve of load current. Of course, the cables from the input must provide this current. This work is also done by specialists under control energy supervision.

If your meter already provides such a current (visible on the meter itself), then you can make a connection to the garage, over the air, or underground.

How to do wiring in the garage with your own hands - photo:

How to spend electrical wiring in the garage? First, let's discuss what you can do on your own, on your own. From the house you can run electricity to the garage by air or under earth. Air line made with a cable and suspended on a steel support wire with a diameter of 3 mm.

The line is pulled underground in a corrugated plastic pipe, in a trench 80 cm deep, on a bed of sand, 10 cm thick. This line is connected to the home meter and is thus part of apartment wiring, as a separate line, also protected by a machine.

In the room itself, a self-made electrical panel for garage for further distribution of electricity (see electrical panel diagram for the garage below). And this one switch box for a garage it starts with the main machine, the same as in the apartment. We will talk about the choice of rated current for them below.

DIY electrical distribution panel diagram for a garage:

Schemes and location of consumers

How to spend wiring in the garage with your own hands? Before starting work you need to select wiring diagram in the garage with your own hands. Garage wiring diagrams vary depending on what information is needed by the person looking at them. In electrical engineering there are circuit diagrams And layout diagrams.

The first should describe in detail the entire electrical circuit, and the second - the location of consumers, indicating the distance or so that you can navigate by the scale of the drawing. Let's start with schematic diagram connecting the wiring to the garage, which is required in accordance with latest version PUE.

Single phase circuit diagram The garage's electrical supply is shown in the figure below. For convenience, the wiring diagram in the garage uses the actual colors of the wires (as in regular cables).

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the garage - diagram, photo:

The phase conductor of the network is under dangerous voltage relative to neutral and ground, since neutral is usually grounded. However, for the operation of the residual current device (RCD), a protective earth (PE, protection earth) is required.

ATTENTION! Never connect protective earth to neutral! Use correctly arranged grounding.

Principle of operation RCD consists of using a differential transformer, which adds up the incoming (through the phase wire) and outgoing (through the neutral wire) currents. If the consumer's insulation is damaged and there is a short circuit to the housing, then the sum of the phase wire and neutral currents is not zero. And the difference is made precisely by the leakage current to the ground.

Perhaps this current flows through the human body! Lethal current approx. 100 mA. And the RCD shown in the diagram is configured for current 5 mA. Thus, the person will be protected, because the device will operate in milliseconds and open the circuit.

But this only works if the leakage current flows in addition to the differential transformer RCD, namely in a separate grounding line!

The main machine de-energizes our small network in the diagram in case of short circuits on a common line (magnetic protection) or in the event of a large total overload of all lines ( thermal protection). It is also used for repairs.

In order to ensure the independence of different consumers, it is used several lines feeding from one or more groups. Usually in a private garage, as in an apartment, one group is enough. And each group is powered by its own machine in the phase circuit. This is very convenient for repairs.

Automatic machines (circuit breakers) protect their circuits from overcurrent and short circuits. It should be remembered that RCD protects circuits only from leakage currents! It does not protect the circuit from overcurrent, the circuit breaker does that.

Tires, located in the shields, are made in the form of strips or bars made of copper or brass alloys and are equipped with holes for wires that are tightened with screws. It should be said that the modern range of electrical products is very convenient for installation work if used correctly.

Three-phase network diagram differs from single-phase only in two additional phases and the installation of three-phase (built-in) circuit breakers and RCDs. The individual phases of this network are routed as voltage lines 220 V together with neutral. Between any two phases the voltage is equal 380 V, and the phase angle in a uniformly loaded network is 120 degrees. In this case, the current in the neutral is zero.

Electricity in the garage with your own hands - the layout is shown in the following figure:

On such electrical diagrams in the garage, it is not necessary to fulfill the requirements for drawings according to accepted rules, since we make them for ourselves. The main thing is clarity all designations. Vertical sections of wiring are marked with pluses indicating the height. This will make it possible to easily calculate the length of the lines.

On the wiring diagram for electrical wiring in the garage are indicated symbols sockets And lamps. Switches can be added. Everything is added by location. We'll work on this document a little more later when we select materials.

Selection of wires and cables according to load power

Here you can use the following table:

The table is compiled for voltage 230 V (new standard instead of 220). Now we can select the cable sizes for the garage in the previous picture. Let's assume that all the lamps under the ceiling are on 80 W, lamps on 36 V in the hole 100 W and we will need sockets for the pit for electrical equipment with a power of up to 5 kW.

A line of ceiling lights consumes a total of 240 W, and for pit lamps we cannot use the table, since the transformer voltage 36 V. In addition, the pit has an outlet for power tools. 36 V. Therefore, we proceed from the maximum power of the transformer, let it be equal to 500 W.

Let's calculate the current by power: I = P/U = 500/36 = 14 A (rounded up).

Wire from transformer it is better to conduct copper wiring closed type- part of it passes through pipes to concrete floor garage. Therefore, a cable with a conductor cross-section of 4.5 mm.kv, “four and a half squares” in the jargon of electricians, is suitable for us. For pit sockets, we will also take copper wire for closed wiring, this will require, according to the table, 5.5 mm.sq.

In fact, these meticulous calculations are not trivial at all, you will understand this as soon as you find yourself in a store and start looking at the price tags of copper cables.

So we will need 8 m cable 4.5 mm.sq. and 7 m cable 5.5 mm.sq. And 9 m aluminum cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.kv for ceiling lamps, thinner than an electric cable is practically not available for sale. We select and buy the nearest sections, rounded up.

We choose aluminum because it inexpensive, and the ceiling line is practically unloaded. Cables should be selected with double insulation and with insulating conductors.

By current we select and machine guns. For a line of ceiling lights 2.5 A, for a line of sockets in a pit 15 A, and the transformer remains. Since the transformer transforms not only voltages, but also currents with the same ratio, we can easily calculate the current in the primary winding: 14 / (220 / 36) = 14 * 36 / 220 = 2.3 A. An automatic machine will do. 2.5 A. The total maximum current will be 20 Amps and the automatic machine should be the same. All that remains is to choose the appropriate RCD.

It must be designed for a passing current of at least 20 A and operating current 10-20 mA, not more! Devices with proper insulation have virtually zero leakage current.

Other materials and installation technology

Cables and busbars are placed in closed shields, boxes and cable ducts or trays. These materials were traditionally made from metal. Nowadays they use non-flammable plastic in the form of pipes, round or rectangular. Worst of all corrugated pipe– it can be very difficult to pull cables and wires into it.

The best option is cable trays with snap-on lids. Good fit metal-plastic pipe for plumbing or heating.

At bend points, if it is impossible to make this bend with a large radius from pipes, use boxes, which serve for the distribution of branches and the installation of switches.

Both boxes and pipes must be well fastened to load-bearing elements (walls, beams, ceilings), and the connection of pipes to boxes should be, if possible, airtight.

In practice, you will have to show patience and skill, even when using the most technologically advanced materials.

Pulling cables through pipes should begin with wire, which is inserted into the pipe using a special head that prevents jamming. The cable is then tied to a wire and pulled through the pipe. This is why trays with locking lids are preferred. They are very easy to install and repair.

The trays require significantly fewer holes to attach and have a neat appearance. In the garage example, trays could be used in vertical sections of wiring, and ceiling lamps can be hung on a tensioned rope.

It is advisable to use a clamp connection in boxes screws, but you can solder copper strands, this is also quite reliable method. To switch from aluminum to copper, in order to avoid corrosion, you must use either special terminals or washers made of zinc or galvanized steel. This will get in the way corrosion in a humid environment. “Bare” contact between copper and aluminum will inevitably lead to corrosion, deterioration of the contact and overheating.

Grounding

How to make it in the garage with your own hands? The role of grounding has already been discussed above and now how to organize it. To do this, drive a steel rod into the ground near the garage. galvanized pipe 2 meters long and weld round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm to it. It is advisable to choose a damp grounding location.

Steel circle (it needs to be painted waterproof paint), is brought into the garage and there it is led to the panel, where another terminal is made for a reliable connection with PE bus thick copper wire. Grounding the lower its resistance, the better, so the thickness of the grounding conductor must be sufficient.

Performance email postings in the garage on your own it is possible. Self-wiring wiring in the garage will require significantly lower costs than using employees. But if you want to spend on high level electrician in the garage with your own hands, you will have to learn a lot in this process and read articles like this one.

This article was mainly devoted to design garage wiring, which is not given too much attention. The topic is not small, and within one article it is impossible to cover all the practical subtleties associated with installation. But on the Internet there are many wiring diagrams for the garage and good videos concerning the practical part of the work and how to perform it.

Useful video

How to do wiring in a garage correctly? Watch the video below: