High-quality ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: how to do it, forced and natural ventilation Organization of ventilation in the bathroom

The hood in the bathroom and toilet should be selected and installed so that there is an intense influx fresh air. Such a ventilation system will allow you to get rid of mold and mildew that arise from excess humidity in the bathroom.

In this article we will talk about the types of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet, the choice of a hood for a combined bathroom, which can also serve as a good element, its proper installation and operation.

The hood in the bathroom has a very simple design - in fact, it is an elementary ventilation system of a forced operation principle. It consists of a maximum of two parts - an air duct that connects to ventilation riser home, as well as the fan itself.

Despite such a simple design, it works perfectly, and most importantly, it copes with its responsibilities 100%.

Since we have come to the conclusion that the hood is nothing more than ventilation, then we should understand the principle of its operation. In almost all houses it operates using the supply and exhaust method.

If you suddenly don’t find a second ventilation duct that provides an influx of fresh air, know that it is provided by ventilating the apartment or house as a whole. This is why, in some situations, a duct designed to remove exhaust air from a bathroom can act as a supply air.

This state of affairs is a sign of completely or partially clogged air ducts. This often happens in apartment buildings, and in private buildings this effect practically does not occur. It is for this same reason that most people living in high-rise buildings equip their bathrooms with a forced exhaust air exhaust system.

Simply put, if the ventilation ducts are 100% clean, then there is no need for an exhaust hood for the toilet and bathroom - ventilation and removal of excess moisture is carried out due to natural air convection.

By the way, one of the reasons for poor-quality ventilation is metal-plastic windows, which completely eliminate the effect of slot ventilation, which is what ventilation in old houses was largely designed for.

The device seems to have been sorted out, now it’s time to turn to the heart of the ventilation system for the bathroom or toilet. The fan is responsible for all the problems of old and clogged ventilation ducts. This device is ambiguous and may differ in some design elements that cannot be ignored.

Electric exhaust fan

Let's start by dividing all modern bathroom hoods into two types: simple and automatic. What is the difference between them? The fact is that the latter require minimal human participation in the air exchange process.

Simple hoods are an ordinary electric fan placed in a tubular housing. They can be activated either by a built-in switch or a separate switch. A fairly common way to turn it on is the switch key responsible for lighting the bathroom.

This approach to the matter is not very correct, since in this case the removal of polluted air is carried out only when a person is in the room. But the moisture does not have time to evaporate during this time. Therefore, it is advisable to install a separate switch for the fan.

Automatic hood. It differs from an ordinary one only in the presence of electronics that control its operation. Such devices can operate through two various methods– some of them are equipped with a shutdown timer (they turn on, like an ordinary hood, using the switch key), while others have special sensors that control the humidity in the bathroom.

As soon as it exceeds the permissible value, the fan turns on, after the humidity returns to normal, it turns off. These are quite convenient devices that do not require human intervention to control their operation.

In addition, both types of bathroom hoods can be equipped with additional options.

Some models are equipped with a so-called non-return valve, which does not allow air to flow in the opposite direction - this nuance will be indispensable for residents of high-rise buildings, where the smell of borscht or burnt onions coming from neighbors is considered a common occurrence.

For residents of the private sector, whose bathroom ventilation has direct contact with the street, it would be a good idea to purchase a hood with an adjustable diffuser - by tightening or unscrewing the washer in the center of the hood, you can regulate the amount of air emitted to the street.

Types of fans for bathrooms and toilets

The functionality of ventilation devices is quite important, so you need to understand how to choose a hood for a bathroom or toilet. Today, all exhaust fans can be divided into two types.

The standard hood for the toilet and bathroom is a conventional axial system, equipped with a system designed to block the flow of exhaust air into the room.

This system can be turned on and off using a light switch, which is quite convenient. But when large volumes of steam are generated during the bathing process, such a system is ineffective.

An automatic hood is a more advanced, but also expensive device. Such devices are equipped with special timers that are set for a certain time period of operation, and more functional devices are equipped with a hydrostat, which determines the level of humidity in the room.

Having understood the basic parameters of the device, all that remains is to choose a suitable system, which you can install yourself without any problems. In this case, fastening is carried out with standard self-tapping screws or glue.

Hood in the bathroom

IN construction reference books The standards that must be adhered to for effective ventilation of sanitary premises with high humidity are clearly indicated.

The system must provide fresh air for the bathroom or toilet at a speed of 25 cubic meters. m/hour, and for a combined unit twice as high - 50 cubic meters. m/hour. These standards are minimum.

Sometimes experts recommend removing air from the bathroom at a speed of about 150 cubic meters. m/hour.

Depending on the characteristics of air exchange, natural and forced ventilation are distinguished. In the first case, the exchange occurs due to the difference in air pressure outside and inside the room.

Air flows penetrate through windows, doors, special ventilators, etc. It is worth immediately noting that due to the nature of the bathroom design, the use of natural ventilation does not always achieve the desired effect.

To install ductless ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to make an opening that will connect the house ventilation duct with the bathroom room.

When forced or artificially ventilating a room, special fans are used to ensure sufficient air exchange.

Most often, a fan helps move air from indoors to outdoors, while fresh air masses enter the bathroom from living quarters. Sometimes a small fan is placed in the toilet, even with good natural ventilation, to speed up the purification of the air from unpleasant odors.

If it is not possible to naturally organize sufficiently intense air exchange, forced ventilation is mandatory.

Depending on the purpose there are:

• exhaust;
• supply;
• mixed ventilation.

The exhaust principle has already been described a little above: air is removed through the ventilation duct, and new air is supplied from the outside. Supply ventilation is organized differently: air is pumped in from the outside and forced out through the channel.

When using mixed ventilation, both the air flow and its removal are regulated.

A beautiful decorative grille for an exhaust hood in a bathroom will not only hide the structure, but can also become an eye-catching detail.

Experts also distinguish between duct and non-duct ventilation, which is characterized by the presence or absence of a ventilation duct.

Creating dedicated channels should be avoided whenever possible. Usually, an opening is made in the wall that opens into the common ventilation duct of a multi-story building, and a fan is installed in it.

In a separate bathroom, if there is access to the ventilation duct in only one room, another fan is installed in the wall opening between the bathroom and the toilet.

Installing a separate ventilation duct makes sense in places that require intensive removal of polluted or moisture-saturated air.

Before making a choice in favor of one or another air exchange system, you need to familiarize yourself with the types and principles of operation of such systems. Bathroom hood can be organized using natural or forced methods.

• Natural exhaust.

This hood works due to the action of natural factors, such as the difference in air pressure and temperature in the room and outside.

Exhaust air is removed through a ventilation duct running in the wall of the house. To carry out air exchange, an open window or door through which fresh air enters is sufficient.

Very often, especially in apartment buildings of old buildings, ventilation ducts become clogged or clogged due to the destruction of ventilation caps on the roof of the building. In this case, natural exhaust in bathrooms does not work.

Natural ventilation systems are inexpensive, easy to install and maintain, and do not require energy supply.

Natural exhaust in the bathroom and toilet - simple and economical solution ventilation problems in the presence of good draft. At the same time, one cannot ignore its shortcomings:

1. unstable operation in hot weather, in which there is no required temperature difference;
2. high sensitivity to clogging of ventilation ducts.

• Mechanical hood.

This type of exhaust system operates through the operation of fans that forcefully remove contaminated air flow into the exhaust ventilation ducts. The installation of such ventilation can be done at any time, while natural ventilation channels are laid during the construction stage.

Forced hoods in the bathroom and toilet are installed in the following cases:

1. absence or poor functioning of natural air exchange;
2. remodeling the bathroom or combining it with a toilet, when part of the ventilation ducts is removed;
3. installation of electrical equipment that increases the formation of steam, the volume of which is not completely removed by natural exhaust;
4. the room is small - the hood in the bathroom does not have time to remove the amount of moisture and steam generated when taking a bath or shower.

The disadvantage of forced ventilation is the need for electricity and the need to lay wires to each fan.

Ventilation check

There are two simplest ways to check the operation of the hood in the bathroom and toilet without the use of special equipment - using a candle or a sheet of paper.

A burning candle is brought to the ventilation duct - when ventilation is running, the flame deflects, indicating the direction of air flow. In the absence of draft, the flame remains vertical.

To check the correct operation of the ventilation system, you can take advice from specialists. To do this, you will need a regular paper sheet that is applied to the ventilation grille in the bathroom or toilet, and if it is held on it by the air flow, then everything is in order with the hood.

In turn, if paper falls on the floor, then you need to think about installing an exhaust fan.

I would like to note that even a normally functioning system does not always cope with its responsibilities, since it works due to the difference in temperatures inside the apartment and outside.

Very often in summer period years, when it is very hot outside the room, the natural ventilation system becomes absolutely useless and does not draw out unpleasant odors from the toilet.

Poor ventilation can also be caused by insufficient fresh air flow. This problem is typical for old houses after the installation of plastic windows. To solve this problem, windows with ventilators should be installed.

How not to make a mistake when choosing an exhaust device

If there is poor air circulation in the bathroom or toilet, moisture accumulates on the ceiling and walls, causing water droplets to condense and mold and mildew to form. And due to the lack of windows to let in fresh air from the street, the only correct solution would be to install an electric exhaust fan for the toilet or bathroom.

In this case, when buying an exhaust device, you need to proceed from the following criteria:

• the total area of ​​the toilet or bathroom used for ventilation;
• number of residents using the bathroom.

In order to save electricity, it is better to choose exhaust devices with a built-in power regulator and a built-in function for disconnecting the device from the mains if such a need arises. To buy an exhaust device that best suits a particular room, you need to understand its main characteristics.

Performance exhaust device– one of the most important parameters. If settling in exhaust system, passing from the toilet through the bathroom, this means that it will process fairly large volumes of air and standard exhaust fans in the toilet with a very low level of efficiency will not cope with the task assigned to them.

Safety of the device - an electric hood for a toilet or bathroom must comply with all regulatory safety parameters and be located in a hermetically sealed housing. Vapors and moisture often accumulate on the ceiling, so even hoods placed on the ceiling surface must be protected from such external factors.

Due to the fact that most multi-storey buildings are equipped with a common exhaust duct for several apartments, when purchasing a ventilation device you need to choose systems equipped with a check valve.

First of all, this is due to the fact that exhaust air, saturated with unpleasant aromas from the ventilation duct, can penetrate back into the room. In addition, the check valve protects the room from the penetration of dust, fluff and other dirt from the street.

Before you begin installing a ventilation system in a bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the exhaust fan. The hood structure should be located opposite the door at the top of the wall or on the ceiling.

In this case, you need to worry about the presence of electrical wiring, of course, if the fan is not equipped with a battery. After choosing a convenient location, you can proceed to installation, during which experts advise adhering to the following recommendations.

1. It is better to install ventilation for a bathroom or toilet during the renovation process in an apartment.
2. It is better to connect the fan from.
3. The wiring going to the fan can be hidden in grooves.
4. To greatly simplify the installation process and protect the fan from external influences, into the hole in the wall, insert plastic pipe, which is easily fixed with cement mortar. But before that you need to connect the device.
5. If the ceiling height in the bathroom or toilet is sufficient, then you can use a more functional, albeit complex ventilation structure, built using plastic boxes, securing the device itself directly above the toilet.
6. When connecting the exhaust device, it is important to study in detail the instructions included with the fan in order to correctly connect it to the power supply.

Apartment buildings are usually designed in such a way that the ventilation duct is located directly behind the wall of the bathroom or toilet. All that remains is to carefully make a hole in the right place (if there is none) so that it goes into this channel.

A radial axial fan is installed inside the opening. The device is connected to the power supply, observing all the requirements for the operation of electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity.

If necessary, install additional funds controls (timer, gyroscope, etc.). The niche is covered with a beautiful decorative grille. If the apartment has a separate bathroom and the ventilation duct is located behind the walls of both rooms, the second fan is installed in the same way as described above.

Otherwise, the ventilation hole is made in the wall separating the toilet and bathroom. A fan is also placed in this opening and closed. decorative screens on both sides.

Sometimes it is more convenient to use decorative grilles, in which the design provides for mounting the fan in special slots.

The figure clearly shows a diagram of connecting an exhaust fan to the power supply using a timer, which allows you to turn off the fan some time after the visitor leaves the bathroom.

It is somewhat more difficult to solve the problem of bathroom ventilation when the ventilation duct borders another room. In this case, you will have to create duct ventilation.

First you need to choose a location for the ventilation hole in the bathroom and toilet. Then you need to draw up a plan for placing a ventilation duct through which air masses will move outward.

When creating duct ventilation in a bathroom, a flexible corrugated duct is used only in small areas where installation of other structures is impossible or difficult

There are the following types of ventilation ducts:
1. plastic round or rectangular;
2. hard or soft corrugated metal;
3. metal, tin or galvanized, usually rectangular in cross-section.

Plastic boxes are easier to install and lighter in weight than metal constructions, at the same time they are durable and easy to care for.

Therefore, plastic structures are confidently replacing metal with construction market. Corrugated products are used extremely rarely; they are permissible only for short distances and are used only in particularly difficult cases.

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check the operation of the equipment.

Let's give an example self-installation hoods when a ventilation duct is provided in the room:

• we check the functionality of the ventilation shaft;
• if the channel is clogged, we clean it with our own hands; if the area of ​​the hole does not accommodate the dimensions of the device, carefully use a chisel and hammer to increase it to the required size;
• remove the external grille from the fan, insert the device into the hole in the ventilation duct and fasten it using self-tapping screws or liquid nails;
• make sure that the device is tightly located in the opening of the ventilation duct;
• cover with a grate and use sealant to seal the joints between the outer grate and the wall;
• connect the wires to the electrical network;
• For aesthetic reasons, it is better to choose a grille design that matches the style of the bathroom.

By installing a hood in a bathroom or toilet, you will prevent the formation of condensation on the walls and metal surfaces mixers, eliminate unpleasant smell and - the air in the bathroom will be clean and the room dry.

Common mistakes when installing ventilation

It happens that the performance of a brand new ventilation system suddenly turns out to be unsatisfactory or is initially ineffective.

This may occur due to one or more errors made during its installation. When figuring out how to properly ventilate a bathroom, you should immediately take these points into account.

Here are a number of errors that occur most often:
1. The ventilation duct is not designed correctly, making it difficult to move air masses.
2. The tightness of the ventilation duct connections is broken.
3. The fans are installed incorrectly and make too much noise.
4. The duct passes through the living quarters in such a way that the ventilation noise interferes with the normal functioning of the family.

First you need to find out the cause of the problem, then fix it. A number of troubles can be avoided by paying attention to these points at the design stage of the ventilation system.

If this was not done, and problems appeared during the operation of the structure, the entire ventilation system may need to be seriously reworked.

An alternative option to eliminate troubles is to use sound absorbers different types to reduce unpleasant sound effects. To improve the process of moving air masses, you may have to install a more powerful fan.

Sometimes excessive noise during fan operation indicates that it was installed incorrectly, in which the so-called “alignment” was disrupted. In this case, it is enough to remove the device and install it again with strict adherence to the installation technology.

Usually after this the amount of noise from the fan operation is significantly reduced.

The supply type of ventilation in bathrooms is used extremely rarely, but if such a decision is made, you should think about the temperature of the air coming from outside.

IN winter time a flow of cold air can cause extremely discomfort bathroom visitors. To solve this type of problem, the air entering the room is heated using special electrical appliances.

There are several common misconceptions that can negatively affect ventilation work. When designing and installing the system, remember that:
• an exhaust fan is not enough if the room does not have a normal flow of fresh air;
• big and bulky duct system ventilation is not always more effective than low-cost ventilation methods if they are chosen correctly;
• the presence of an air conditioner in the house, as well as a purifier, ionizer, humidifier and other similar devices does not provide normal ventilation of the rooms, since with their help fresh air does not enter the rooms.

Typically, the design of a ventilation system for a bathroom is very simple; you can do it yourself.

But if some calculations or execution of a ventilation duct are required complex shape, and the novice master does not have experience in such work, it is better to consult with professionals or completely entrust them with all the work.

The quality of ventilation cannot be neglected, since the health of the residents of the house depends on its condition.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom is actually a serious question. It does not arise for residents of city apartments, because in an apartment building natural ventilation is already installed in the bathroom. But in many private houses built 30-50 years ago, this problem is acute. Because in those days, few people cared about ventilation in general, and even more so in the bathroom.

The importance of ventilation in the bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom is a system based on water supply and sewerage. That is, it is also important. After all, this room belongs to the category of damp; the humidity here is often almost one hundred percent. And this is condensation, which negatively affects the condition of surfaces, plumbing and furniture. This means that humidity must be understood. Which way? Ventilation only.

Gaps and leaks in doors and windows solve this problem ineffective. Smudges on the walls and drops on the ceiling, fogged mirror, wet towels- these are not the only ones negative factors lack of a ventilation system. Humidity is the cause of mold and mildew, which in turn will negatively affect the health of home occupants. The appearance of a musty smell is also the reason for the lack of a hood.

Therefore, ventilation in the bathroom must be equipped, even if the house has already been built and is in use. At the same time, it is necessary to install a better forced system in the rooms with maximum outflow of moist air. Today, a combination of two systems is increasingly used, when the fan is turned on while the bathroom is in use, and natural ventilation functions when the room is idle.

Norms and requirements

In principle, the main requirement for a bathroom is an air exchange rate of 25 m³/hour. This does not depend on what size it is. And if in other service rooms (except for the toilet and kitchen) the air mass exchange rate is taken, then a standard value is required here. It is under this that ventilation in the bathroom is installed.

It is important to adhere to one strict requirement - the volume of supply air must be the same or greater than the exhaust air.

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

As in other rooms of the house, in the bathroom you can use either natural or forced ventilation.

Natural

When arranging natural ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to strictly take into account air exchange standards. After all, in such a system there are no devices and devices that forcibly (forcefully) removed exhaust air. Therefore, it is important to choose the correct cross-section of the ventilation duct that is installed in this room.

For example, a square shaft with sides equal to 10 cm, or a round pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, passes through 30 m³/hour. That is, an installed ventilation shaft with such dimensional parameters will be sufficient to provide the required air exchange. But, as mentioned in the previous section, another important component of air flow is the flow of air into the room. That’s why it needs to be organized.

For example, they do this.

1. Leave a gap between door leaf and the floor through which the air flow enters the bathroom. In this case, the air flow is organized through the living spaces.
2. Make holes in the bottom of the door.
3. Do through hole in the wall closer to the floor, where the air supply valve is inserted.

The first option is used most often.

Forced

This option is considered optimal because it becomes possible to create all the conditions for the most effective air outflow. To do this, you will have to correctly calculate the fan performance. In principle, it should be no less than the air exchange, that is, no less than 25 m³/hour.

From the wide variety of fans on offer, choose the one that you think is more suitable for the bathroom. Namely, does it match the design with the decoration. And will it fit in the size of the ventilation duct hole?

This last requirement requires clarification.

1. If it is a wall fan, then it should cover the hole in the wall or flow, but the blades of the device itself should not be much larger than the diameter of the hole.
2. If this is a channel instance, then it just needs to fit tightly into the channel.

In some cases, you have to widen the hole to install the device. This requires certain sacrifices if, for example, ceramic tiles have already been laid. It will have to be dismantled or cut around the hole. But in any case, with the help of a fan the exhaust system will work better.

How to understand that the ventilation system needs to be improved

The first sign is the appearance of mold in the corners of the room. This indicates that the humidity is high and constant. That is, ventilation does not have time to remove air outside the room. So it settles in the corners. And heat creates additional conditions for the appearance of microorganisms.

How to improve ventilation in the bathroom

Everything will depend on what is causing the poor ventilation. If a natural system is used in the bathroom, then there are two reasons:

1. Insufficient air flow. It can be increased by increasing the gap between the floor and the door leaf.
2. The ventilation shaft is clogged. This is a more serious problem that requires a serious approach to solving it. The canal must be cleaned, which is not always possible with an independent approach. If this is ventilation in a private house in which a regular riser is installed through the ceilings and roof, then you can try lowering the load from above so that it pushes the debris inside. And get the last one from inside the room.

If a forced system is used in the bathroom, then you need to check whether it is suitable for performance installed fan. It may also be that he simply cannot cope with air exchange.

These are three reasons that need to be addressed to improve the ventilation in the bathroom.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands

In principle, ventilation in the bathroom is not a problem. The main thing is to set a goal for yourself - it will be natural or forced.

Natural

To do this, you need to make a hole in the wall for a pipe with a diameter of 110-150 mm. It is done under the ceiling in the wall that separates the room from the street. An air valve is inserted into this hole, which is closed on both sides with decorative grilles. It is better to choose a valve with a regulator in the form of a handle and a valve, with which you can close the hole and open it or leave a small gap.

Forced

Instead of a valve, a fan must be installed in the same hole made in the wall.

• If this wall model, then you need to insert a plastic pipe into the wall, which outside covered with a lattice.
• If this is a duct version, then the device itself is installed in the wall and covered on both sides with grilles.

The most difficult thing in this matter is to make a through hole, which requires a hammer drill and a diamond bit of the required diameter. Installing and securing the fan is simple. The wall-mounted one is attached to the wall with four self-tapping screws on plastic dowels, the channel one is simply inserted into the hole without any fasteners. If necessary, the gap between the device and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet provides fresh air and effectively removes odors. The design of multi-storey buildings initially included a device general ventilation, private owners do it themselves. When the ventilation in a high-rise building is poor, they look for a way out of the situation.

What kind of ventilation is there?

Ventilation is important for health and creating a microclimate. For rooms with high humidity and odors, it must be effective. Standards and rules determine: a bathroom must consume 25 m3/hour; for a combined bathroom, twice as much is required.

Soviet-built buildings and inexpensive modern ones are equipped primarily with natural ventilation. Air flow occurs due to the difference in temperature outside and inside. Sometimes a deflector is installed to increase traction, especially in windy weather. This is a cheap and easy way and in the toilet. The system operates without electricity and no special care is required. But it hardly works in hot weather and is sensitive to clogging.

The forced system uses a built-in fan. It pulls air out of the bathroom and replaces it with fresh air. Weather conditions do not affect operation; the correct fans guarantee the necessary air exchange. The forced system uses electricity supplied to the devices. Usually installed when standard ventilation cannot cope, it is more effective.

Forced ventilation for the bathroom and toilet can be exhaust, the exchange occurs due to the removal of air. The second type is supply air: fresh air is pumped into the room, increased pressure is created, and contaminated air is released through channels. Sometimes they make a mixed system - a combination of the previous two. The ventilation system can be ductless, the exchange occurs through a common channel. Channels are connected to individual areas to exhaust air outside or connect to the shaft.

Checking the operation of natural exhaust

If the ventilation performance is unknown, the system is checked very simply. Open the window, the door in the bathroom. Take a paper napkin and apply it to the shaft hole. The air flow should press the sheet against the grill. Use a match, lighter, or candle in the same way. The flame should be directed towards the ventilation duct, and the more, the better.

In the heat, there is almost no natural exchange of air; such a diagnosis may turn out to be erroneous.

Close the windows and doors, do recheck. It may happen that the operation of the hood will deteriorate or will not work at all. You should look for the cause and eliminate it. Among the reasons when the exhaust system suddenly stopped working, the most likely are the following:

• replaced the door in the bathroom with tighter and more airtight ones that do not allow air to pass through;
• we replaced ordinary windows with plastic ones, replaced the front door, the apartment was sealed;
• the shaft at the top became clogged for some reason;
• the neighbors have installed powerful forced ventilation, which pushes air into nearby apartments or interferes with natural circulation.

Restoring system functionality

Forced ventilation in the bathroom will eliminate all problems, but until you are ready to install it, you can repair natural ventilation. First, check the cleanliness of the mine. Usually in high-rise buildings this is done by special teams that have everything necessary to clean the ventilation shaft. Calling a brigade will probably cost a fee.

You can check the area from the bathroom yourself. Remove the grille and use a flashlight to see the ventilation duct. If debris and dead birds are in an accessible area, you can use a hook to clean the shaft. You should not use open fire for lighting - the garbage will burst into flames immediately, and in a matter of seconds the entire mine will burn. You can throw a crowbar into the mine hole at top floor so that it breaks through the clogged area.

If the door in the bathroom is very tight, it needs to be depressurized a little. You should not remove the high threshold, which serves to protect living rooms from possible flooding. It is better to cut the fabric at the bottom by 2 cm and ensure air flow. The option of installing a grille in the door looks much more beautiful. A rectangular or round grille is placed at the bottom of the canvas.

If the house has sealed windows and the walls are insulated with heat-insulating material, even remodeling the bathroom door will not help. Fresh air can appear if you keep the window open. It is easier to provide a supply valve in the window. It can be installed in a through hole in the wall near the window to hide it behind curtains. A good option– installation behind the battery, then the cold air will warm up.

In some cases, raising the temperature in the bathroom will help. This is done in several ways: install a more powerful heated towel rail, install a heated floor system, install a radiator if there was none, or install it with a larger number of sections. If the listed methods cannot revive the existing ventilation, it’s time to think about a forced system.

Choosing an efficient fan

Choose a unit for forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet with a variety of design and various technical specifications- not an easy task. They differ primarily in the location of installation. Ducts are mounted in the air duct, behind the shaft grate. Radial ones are placed at the channel outlet. They have an attractive aesthetic body.

The design determines performance, noise, and installation location. The following fans are available:

1. 1. Axial - captures air with blades and directs it along its axis. Creates medium pressure or less, used for ductless ventilation systems.
2. 2. Diametrical - with a working body drum type. Productivity is low.
3. 3. Centrifugal - made in a spiral housing. The productivity is the highest, the noise it creates is also great.
4. 4. Centrifugal-axial - absorbed the best indicators of other types. Small in size, not very noisy, good performance.

When choosing a fan, read the product data sheet. Safety first. The housing must be waterproof, preventing water from leaking onto electrical components. The degree of security is indicated by an IP code with two digits. The first of them indicates the level of protection against the ingress of foreign objects, the second - how protected the device is from moisture. For the bathroom take a fan with IP45. Direct contact with a jet of water will not harm such fans.

The next indicator is productivity. Ventilation must provide 6–8 air changes. Finding the required performance is easy. First, the area of ​​the room is calculated, the result is multiplied by at least 6, and preferably by 8. For example, the area of ​​the bathroom is 10 m2: choose a fan that produces 60–80 m3 of air per hour.

Choose a product with low noise. IN small room The noise of the operating device is heard very clearly. Noise is determined by the shape of the blades and the speed of rotation. If suitable, choose a large device with low speed. Its noise is less compared to a small and high-speed one, and its performance is similar. Keep in mind: the noise level should not exceed 35 decibels, more high level irritates the psyche.

When installing the fan, treat the joints with sealant to prevent the fan from rattling or vibrating.

Modern fans are additionally equipped with devices that increase functionality. Among them:

• check valve – blocks air from entering the room from the ducts;
• humidity sensor – measures the steam level in the bathroom and turns on the fan;
• motion sensor - the device turns on when there are people in the bathroom;
• timer – turns off the fan after using the switch;
• noise suppressor - installed in front of the device to suppress noise.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Ventilation of a large city house can be done, in most cases, without additional air ducts. A fan is installed in the niche of the common shaft channel, if it is located immediately behind the wall of the bathroom. If the channel is located behind the wall of the toilet and there is a partition with the bathroom, they proceed differently: install ventilation grilles on both sides of the wall.

Can be used combined option. The ventilation hole in the bathroom usually allows you to install a fan. If you put it, there will be a complementarity of forced and natural systems- most best option. But if the ventilation duct is far away, it must be brought into a ventilated room.

Boxes are used for this. They are rectangular, round or corrugated. Plastic boxes, rectangular or round shape preferable: they do not conduct noise from the fan well, the air does not encounter resistance along its path. Corrugated can be hard or soft. They are used in places that are difficult to reach or over short distances.

Installation of a hood requires compliance with the following rules:

• it is placed on the wall opposite the entrance door, as high as possible: installation in a wall with a door reduces circulation;
• the narrow channel hole is expanded with a perforator, and a plastic pipe is placed in the wide one;
• the fan is completely recessed into the shaft, secured with dowels, self-tapping screws, sealant and covered with a grille;
• Electrical wiring is done closed: hidden in a wall or box.

In the toilet, the fan is connected to the light switch, then odors are removed immediately. For a bathroom, a separate fan switch is preferable.

In the bathroom you can often find suspended, suspended or false ceilings. Ventilation in the bathroom is designed and installed before the ceiling is installed. If the hole in the shaft is located below the suspended ceiling, you should think about ventilation of the space. Air flow between the ceilings will be ensured by a grille near the vent. If the entrance to the shaft is located above the false ceiling, several ventilation holes are cut out, and a fan is placed in one of them.

Taking into account the features of an individual home

It is better to design ventilation in the private sector in advance, pre-arranging ducts for exhaust and electrical wiring. In a small bathroom you can get by with natural ventilation; in larger ones, forced ventilation is installed. You should adhere to the rules for installing air exhaust channels:

• the inlet is located at the bottom, the outlet is at the top;
• the inside of the channels is made as smooth as possible;
• Straight channels are preferable; turns are made smooth if necessary;
• Air ducts are installed separately for different floors.

In wooden houses, moisture poses a double threat: it spoils the appearance and damages the structure. Ventilation is mandatory for a wooden house; increased requirements are placed on it. If natural ventilation in the toilet of a private house is allowed on the ground floor, then forced ventilation is required upstairs. You can’t do without a fan in the bathroom of a wooden house.

The equipment requires maintenance. The grilles and fan are periodically cleaned of dust and dirt, and the condition of the components is checked. Regular maintenance will ensure proper operation of the system and an acceptable microclimate.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special requirements security.

Characteristics and types

The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from famous foreign and domestic producers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high groundwater table;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
• disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, they play an important role precipitation and the influx of water from higher places.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content increases carbon dioxide, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutrition regime in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
• intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, china;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
• optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture– from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, and also in private households it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or incorrect installation of the entire involved sewer part and a system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Forced ventilation: DIY

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: ​​fresh air flow through living rooms and its outflow from technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it correctly.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and resulting pressure differences. Using mechanical ventilation Air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of a city person, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. That’s probably why they mainly strive to make systems non-volatile or, at least, redundant.

But natural ventilation in the toilet and bathroom should be too big sizes. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger the cross-section of the air duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster.

• with a forced channel with dimensions of 160 * 200 mm or a diameter of 200 mm;
• with natural circulation, a channel with dimensions of 250 * 400 mm or a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm.

One of the schemes for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house

Therefore, few people today make do with natural ventilation. Perhaps in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with ducts leading to the roof, ventilation of bathrooms and toilets is done using fans.

To decide which fan to install on the bathtub with toilet, you need to calculate the required air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to get involved in calculations, its performance can only be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rates for different rooms. With their help, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or combined bathroom the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - kitchen, toilet, bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The air intake is calculated based on the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times and the minimum values ​​indicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of fans is taken with at least a double reserve, and for kitchens even more: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going for a bathroom fan with a capacity less than 100 m 3 /h, it is better not to buy it.

First of all, you need to decide where you will install the fan: in a duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. IN wall options There can also be two types: for installation at the entrance of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street.

Duct fans are installed inside a box or pipe. Is it round or square, respectively?

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It’s good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

These are wall mounted fans

To maintain human health, it is not enough to monitor the quality of food and liquid consumed. Much attention should also be paid to the air in our premises. Unfortunately, few people think about the fact that it is no less important than good food and water.

Ta ecological situation, which develops in polluted large cities, does not allow their residents to simply ventilate their premises. The most acceptable solution to this problem is to install ventilation. Inflow clean air will reduce the likelihood of headaches, dizziness, drowsiness, and will also serve as the prevention of allergies.

Air exchange in private cottages and apartment buildings is carried out according to different schemes. In small residential buildings, separate ventilation ducts lead to the roof from the kitchen, toilet and bathroom. Another scheme is designed in houses. Here the air is collected in one common channel, discharged to the roof. If the house has forced ventilation, then builders install special systems equipped with sensitive elements. Such equipment closes or opens the dampers when it becomes necessary.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom can be done with your own hands. Moreover, the work is not particularly difficult. First of all, you should check the air outlet duct and clean it, if necessary, of debris. For those who cannot install a new fan, another option is recommended. You can simply remove a few meters of a new one from the old channel by purchasing the appropriate materials at a hardware store.

When installing an electric fan, you should decide on the best place to install it. Ideally, this should be the wall opposite the door.

The fan is installed directly into the exhaust duct opening. If your device has a larger diameter, the hole will have to be expanded slightly. After this, everything must be carefully connected electric wires. However, they should be placed in a dry place (so that they are not visible). At the next stage of work, the device is connected to the switch and secured together with the grille using self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

As a rule, the channel through which ventilation is carried out is located in the toilet. The scheme for organizing air exchange between this room and the bathroom can be implemented in two ways. The first of them involves laying a separate ventilation pipe. It should be located in the ceiling space and go from the bathroom to the air outlet duct. The second option involves installing two separate fans.

One of them should be located on the air duct, and the second should be in the wall between the toilet and the bathroom.

Most often, ventilation in a “Stalin” bathroom is arranged according to the first option. The adoption of such a decision is facilitated by the height of the ceilings in such apartments, which is 3-3.5 m. Forced ventilation in the bathroom is carried out by laying an additional air duct. This structure is attached to the very ceiling and covered with plasterboard. In this case, ventilation into the bathroom is carried out using a flexible, rigid or semi-rigid air duct.

High-quality air exchange is important not only in the bathroom. Normal air circulation is also necessary in the toilet. It will allow you not to feel discomfort from the operation of the sewer system and will prevent the appearance of fungus by reducing the humidity in the room. Often artificial ventilation is required in the toilet of a private house.

How to make ventilation in the toilet (forced type)? To do this, you need to study the design of the existing air duct. Sometimes it may have access directly to the toilet. But often ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is carried out from one box located in the bathroom. In this case, between these two rooms there should be an opening covered with a grill.

In the first case, it is possible to install the fan directly on the box. The second option for the exhaust circuit will require the installation of an additional air duct.

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If mold appears in the bathroom, it means that the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is not working properly or the existing system is not enough. Steam from hot water in the bathroom rises to the ceiling, where condensation forms. Condensation also accumulates on the walls. Over time, mold grows in patches in these areas. Cosmetic repairs in in this case will solve the problem, but it will appear again soon. We need to organize an effective ventilation system in the bathroom.

If there is no ventilation shaft in the room, then it must be organized at a height of at least two meters. It is advisable to place the outlet opposite the doors or diagonally from them. This will help create the necessary air flow for active ventilation of the space. The fan performance can be selected as desired. It can turn on automatically if it has the appropriate devices, or you can activate it by turning on the switch of the fan itself or combined with the light in the bathroom.

The choice of fan must be justified so that its power is sufficient for the bathroom, and the design of the grille is selected based on the appearance of the space in order to emphasize its style and complement it if necessary. By installing such a device, you can extend the safety of all coatings in the bathroom and ensure comfortable and safe use of both the bathtub and the toilet.

Features of bathroom ventilation in a private house

During the construction of residential buildings, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is usually installed natural. However, it is clearly not enough to constantly ensure a normal level of freshness and cleanliness of the air in these rooms. So, when taking a shower, the bathroom is immediately filled with steam.

Mold spores in the air of a bathroom can settle in a person’s lungs and cause the development of diseases such as allergies, asthma, etc. In addition, black spots gradually destroy finishing materials, reaching the concrete itself. That is why everyone needs to install a properly functioning ventilation system in their home.

The system is necessary not only for the supply of clean air. Thanks to it, the optimal temperature is achieved, as well as the level of humidity and oxygen. In a small room without the possibility of ventilation, musty and specific air accumulates. A toilet freshener won't help. It hides odors rather than eliminating them.

Ventilation

The air enters the bathroom and toilet from other rooms. For ventilation, leave a small gap (2-2.5 cm) between the floor and the door leaf or purchase special doors, the leaf of which has round ventilation holes. Air escapes through an open ventilation duct. If the doors are solid, and a very responsible installer did not leave even a single crack, the bathroom will have to be left open for ventilation.

A well-designed ventilation system is an integral part of a bathroom or toilet.

This system is as simple as possible, but unreliable. In modern houses and cottages, ventilation is increasingly failing. Complicating the work:

• Sealed doors and plastic windows;
• Reducing the lumen of the canal as a result of contamination with dust, dirt, cobwebs;
• Incorrectly designed hood;
• Windy weather;
• An uninsulated channel, inside which the air quickly cools and slowly rises.

If the device removes 100 m3 of air per hour, at least the same amount must be supplied, which is impossible with hermetically sealed doors.

Organization rules

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, and insulate the walls through which air flows at least a little with airtight materials. Third source - entrance doors- Today, almost everyone has iron ones too, with a rubber seal.

In order for the grilles to provide adequate ventilation for the bathroom and eliminate high humidity, it is worthwhile to approach the selection of these products with particular care and responsibility. The further ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet depends on how these products are selected.

• the presence of lamellas - each grille must have lamellas, through which the main air ventilation occurs. They should be located over the entire area of ​​the grille;
• shape - the shape of these products can be different - rectangular, round, square. You can choose the shape as you wish, the main thing is that the product fits harmoniously;
• material - it is advisable to choose gratings made of durable plastic. These products perform their functions, but at the same time retain their original qualities for a long time;
• color - this element can be any color, but it is desirable that it matches the door. After all, it won’t be very nice when the door is white and the grille is black or blue.

Arrangement of ventilation in the bathroom of a private house or apartment is a rather complex process that requires compliance with all the nuances. After all, ventilation systems prevent the formation of high humidity and condensation, which often leads to the formation of fungus and mold.

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there it goes through the ventilation ducts.

If you want the ventilation to be normal and the walls in the rooms not to get wet, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They come with adjustable flaps, different forms and sizes, covered with bars on the outside. It is best to install under windows, above or behind radiators. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: air will flow through them to other rooms. It is advisable to install in the bathroom doors ventilation grille and/or also make a gap at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only when there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

Functionality check

Arrangement of ventilation is a rather complex and responsible matter, during which it is worth taking into account all the important nuances. Any deviation from the standards may cause serious disruptions in the further operation of this system. Therefore, many experts recommend, before making ventilation in the bathroom, to consider the features of the design principle of this system. In these cases, it is worth considering several important features:

• in residential buildings with a small number of floors, ventilation is provided by separate ducts for each room - for bathrooms, toilets, kitchens;
• in residential buildings with more than 5 floors, exhaust hoods from bathrooms, toilets, and kitchens are combined into one ventilation duct. In this case, this channel is brought out to the roof area, and all hoods are connected to it floor by floor using an air seal;
• all air movement of ventilated systems is carried out using natural draft, which occurs due to changes temperature conditions air inside the room and outside air.

Exhaust ventilation system diagram for a multi-storey building

It also happens that natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet works quite normally. That is why before installing a new system it is necessary to check the serviceability of the existing one. This is not difficult to do. Moreover, no additional tools will not be needed for this. It is enough to hold a piece of paper directly to the ventilation grille.

The leaf should stick to it under the influence of moving air. If this does not happen, then we can say that the hood is not working. Sometimes the cause of this condition may be too solid door to the bathroom or toilet. In this case, the required volume of air flow into the bathroom is not ensured.

The toilet and bathroom in apartments, even with a divided wall, have one air outlet that goes into the shaft. In private houses, a different ventilation system may be provided. This is especially true if it has several floors. IN simple houses the room may have a window for ventilation.

The shaft type is installed in cottages. Functional testing is carried out through technological air holes. The presence of draft is analyzed by holding a lighter or a sheet of paper to the grate. The fire should go out or turn towards the ventilated window, and the leaf should be attracted to the hole. If this does not happen, then the system is malfunctioning.

Ventilation may not always work as required, and there can be plenty of reasons for this. Therefore, before you start arranging ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, it is worth considering all the important nuances, including the reasons for poor ventilation draft.

What reasons may cause poor ventilation:

• sometimes ventilation problems can occur due to errors in calculations in the cross-section of ventilation ducts;
• various errors when installing the ventilation system;
• Often, the pull can be caused by a build-up of debris, as well as other falling elements. The presence of all these elements can cause difficulties in the flow of air into the room;
• Another reason for poor ventilation may be renovation work neighbors that affect the ventilation systems.

Do you know why natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet sharply deteriorates? There are several of them.

1. For example, this happens if the doors in the bathroom have been changed and air cannot penetrate from below.
2. Another reason is the renovation of neighbors above, as a result of which the shaft accidentally becomes clogged.
3. Finally, a bird could get there and then die.
4. It happens that after neighbors install forced ventilation, a reverse flow of air passes into another apartment, or prevents circulation at all.
5. Another reason is hidden in the time of year. So, in the summer, when it is very hot, hot air from outside prevents cold masses from leaving the premises. As a result, a plug of air is formed. Therefore, the door should be left slightly open.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Connecting a bathroom fan

To operate the fan, you need a power supply and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

• Connect in parallel with turning on the lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. This situation is normal for a toilet, but not always for a bathroom. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms you can use a different method of connecting the fan or set a shutdown delay ( special device, at which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

• Display it on a separate switch key or install a separate toggle switch/button.
• Set a timer that will automatically supply power according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the most difficult. You will have to punch a groove in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, lead it to the installation location of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

You can read how to make a shower stall with a tile tray in this article.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the duct. To do this, remove the grille, if it is not already dismantled, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is steadily pulled towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it either stretches or bends back, the traction is unstable.

If the flame or leaf hardly deviates, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as an unpleasant odor, are guaranteed throughout the entire apartment, and in the bathroom, this is a must.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private houses, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have brought it out without taking into account the wind rose and the draft periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but this is not easy. To begin with, you can try installing a deflector (if you don’t have one) or slightly increasing/decreasing the height.

When installing a fan while it is running, the amount of air exhausted increases significantly. But due to the fact that the housing blocks part of the channel cross-section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system decreases.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the housing and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the gap and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more details.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

• You need to make a hole on the tile for the body. The easiest way is to put a fan and outline it. Then use a special attachment on a drill or grinder to cut a hole of the appropriate size.
• Remove the front panel from the fan. It is secured with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed and the grille was removed. The holes for the fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the duct), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the places where the bolts will be.
• Using a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to match the size of the dowel.
• We make a cut in the tile where we will pass the power supply wire.
• Insert the dowels.
• We pull the electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
• Place it in place and tighten the bolts.
• We connect the wires.
• We check the functionality and install the grille.
• Read about choosing a fan and calculating its performance here. For wooden toilets all this is only partly true. Read about how to get rid of odors outdoor toilet here.

  Ventilation in a bathroom in a private house

  Here the main difficulties may arise when installing exhaust ducts. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought out onto the roof. This is more difficult from the point of view of internal wiring - you will have to pull the air ducts to to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the appearance is solid.

  
  

  Another way to install ventilation ducts is to take it out through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they must rise 50 cm above the ridge. But you will have one common air duct or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

  

  There is another option: make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options shown in the photo is suitable.

  

  In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made directly at the top of the wall (for air exchange to be effective, it should be located opposite the door, diagonally, at the top). With this device, a regular wall fan is used. The same figure shows how you can reduce the number of required channels. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are located next to each other, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grille. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

  In the second option (pictured on the right) an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, but there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the wood will turn black after some time. If you conclude this from the toilet, this may not happen, but in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “reach out” the air duct to the edge of the roof or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).