Manufacturing of bath doors. Choosing or making wooden doors for a bathhouse. Paneled wooden doors

Anyone who has the ability to make their own bath doors can the right tool, special skills, as well as quite a lot of time and desire.

In any bathhouse there are several rooms that perform different functions, so each will need its own door to enclose it. There should be at least two doors in the bathhouse: the entrance and the one from the steam room to a special relaxation room.

There are three varieties bath doors:

Main features of bath doors

When creating these doors, two main criteria should be taken into account - high temperature and humidity level inside the bathhouse. First distinguishing feature such a door is its size, the second is the materials used, and the last is the fittings used.

Bath door size

When making bath doors, all sizes are determined according to the principle of greatest heat retention at the moment of closing and opening the doors. In this regard, all bath doors are smaller in size when compared to ordinary ones. The required height of sauna doors is 165–185 cm from the floor itself, and the width is 65–70 cm. It is worth paying attention to the threshold, the height of which should be more than 15 cm. However, such small door sizes are used exclusively for steam rooms.

Materials for the correct manufacture of bath doors

For bath doors you can also use glass, And wood. Glass must withstand very high temperatures. However, the most best material for bath doors it is still wood.

Here, as a rule, it is used - linden, larch, aspen, oak.

Accessories

Fittings for bath doors must be made of materials with very low thermal conductivity, as well as resistance to high humidity. If you use, for example, metal latches and handles, you can easily get burned from touching them. In this regard, fittings are usually made of wood.

This applies to latches and handles, but it is advisable to take brass hinges, but if you couldn’t find similar ones, then metal hinges should definitely be painted with a special anti-corrosion paint. Since the sauna doors open outwards, the possibility of getting burned is almost impossible.

Manufacturing of bath doors

After determining the type of doors, you can begin special work on creation. For beginners, this process may well seem quite complicated, but this is purely a matter of experience. If you have never made a door before, then first you can buy cheap boards and practice on them at will. Next, this will allow you to make bath doors without problems.

Since the most optimal door for a bathhouse is considered to be a door made of wood, we will use its example to look at the entire process of creating bathhouse doors. Before making bathhouse doors, as a rule, you need to make purchases. Here you can't do without materials:

• tongue and groove floorboard (width 50 mm, thickness 30 mm);
• special pins and screws;
• linings (dimensions - 12x96 mm);
• loop (three pieces);
• timber for strapping (dimensions - 60x80 mm).

The tool you can't do without is:

• hand circular saw;
• hammer and mallet;
• milling cutter with a set of cutters;
• screwdriver;
• clamps;
• level, caliper, depth gauge, tape measure.

Making a door leaf

Making a door should always begin with the formation of the leaf. To do this you need to do this:

• It is necessary to take special tongue and groove boards and cut them to the required length.

• Then you need to cut off the tenon from one of the boards, after which the surface is jointed on both sides of each board, you need to get an absolutely flat surface. As a rule, it is enough to remove 2 mm to achieve the desired result. Ideally, you should get smooth boards with a thickness of 26 mm.
• You can start assembling the door leaf. First, you should make a rough assembly, insert the tenon of the board into the groove of another, and connect them as tightly as possible. As a result, you can get a canvas slightly larger in width than necessary. It's not scary. To get the canvas of the required width, you will need to cut a little from the last and first boards.
• Having measured the required size, which is 60-70 mm smaller than the width of the entire door, and marked it on the canvas, you need to remove the last and first boards. On circular saw everything unnecessary is cut off from them. It is important not to cut off the side on the last board where the groove is located, but on the first board the side where the tenon is located.
• Next, the boards are assembled into one sheet. To do this, you need to lay out the boards on the surface of the workbench and insert the tenon of one board into a special groove of the previous one, having previously coated the groove inside with ordinary PVA glue. For good connection Each board should be hammered with a mallet.
• The canvas is left to dry for two to three days. To ensure that the canvas does not move at all during the drying period, it must be securely fastened to the workbench. To do this, you need to fix two strips of wood on a workbench, between which the door leaf is placed longitudinally. For normal fixation, you need to drive wooden wedges between the door leaf and the strip. A special sheet of chipboard is laid on top of the canvas and pressed against the table with clamps.
• After drying, you need to check the canvas for minor defects. The cracks are sealed with a special mixture of sawdust and glue, and all irregularities are smoothed out with a regular plane.

We make fittings and door trim

While the canvas dries, you can start creating bolts and handles, as well as a special trim for the door:

• In the previously obtained bar blanks, you need to select a groove. To do this, using an end mill and a router, you first need to select a deep and narrow groove. Its width is approximately 26 mm, depth - 25 mm. After this, a wide but shallow groove should be selected on top of it (depth is 10 mm and width is 50 mm). A similar stepped groove in the trim is needed for fabric that has been lined with clapboard. The wide one should fit the lining, and the deep one should fit all the tongue and groove boards.

• On the horizontal bars of the strapping, a stepped tenon is made using a cutter, which corresponds to the groove. When finished, you need to assemble the trim box and check the correctness of the angles with a square. If necessary, sharpen the groove with a milling cutter to obtain absolutely right angles.

• To make bolts and handles, it is necessary to use scraps of boards and bars or pre-purchased blanks.

Cladding, door assembly

Now all that remains is to cover the canvas with clapboard, assemble the wooden bath doors together and make a door frame. To do this you need to do the following:

After all this, you can begin creating the door frame. To do this, we use beams with dimensions of 100x100 mm. To create boxes from them, it is enough to cut them to a certain length and select the quarters using a cutter. It is important that the depth of such a quarter is approximately 5 mm greater. This is extremely important, because in a bathhouse, under the influence of constant humidity, the wooden door will swell and can easily jam. In addition, you need to remember that the vertical top bar will be slightly smaller than the width of the box, and the threshold should be at least 10-15 cm in height. To combine the box beams, you need to cut grooves along all the edges of the racks from the bottom and top, and along the edges of the top cut out tenons for the trim and threshold. Before installing the door frame, you need to assemble it and check with a square that all the angles are correct. If necessary, you need to sharpen the grooves and process special means from rotting and begin installing the door in place.

How to easily install bath doors

When the doors are completely ready, they can be installed. Installation begins with making doorway special grooves. We make them approximately 10 mm larger than the width of the door frame, this is necessary so that during installation you can easily adjust the vertical position of your doors and spread them out using wedges. Then the box is installed in the grooves. It is important not to confuse exactly where the doors will open.

Important! It should be remembered that the doors in the bathhouse should swing outward.

Then you need to install a horizontal top beam and support it with vertical posts. After this, you need to place the threshold on the bottom. Using a level, we monitor the absolutely vertical position of the box. Having been well aligned vertically, wedges should be driven into all gaps between the frame and the wall, this will fix the box in place. We fix the door frame to the wall using dowels, having drilled special holes for them in advance. When the frame is well secured, you can begin installing hinges for the door leaf. The very first hinge should be at a height of about 25 cm from the top of the door, the second - 50 cm, and the third - 25 cm from the bottom edge. This will help protect your doors from skewing, especially if your door is very heavy. Now you need to hang the door leaf, fill the entire perimeter of the frame with a felt roller and seal all the cracks.

Making a sauna door is quite a difficult task, and it must be approached responsibly. True, the result can exceed all the wildest expectations.

03.09.2016 24252

To go to a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to purchase materials, prepare tools, and remember carpentry skills. Usually it has at least two doors - the entrance and the steam room - the main room for which the bathhouse is being built. Here, temperature conditions are created that are beneficial for people, but extreme for materials, so these features are taken into account when manufacturing doors.

What to make it from? Choosing material

Entrance structures of the dressing room or wash room can be from any material,DIY steam room doorshould be made of wood. Natural material will be able to withstand all temperature changes without emitting harmful substances (like plastic), without heating to an unbearable degree (like iron). Deciduous woods (oak, aspen, alder, linden) are recommended by craftsmen for making bath items and accessories - they contain less resins that evaporate when heated, which you have to breathe. Coniferous wood(pine, spruce, cedar) is also used, but you have to put up with pungent odor and resinous “tears” on the surface. Despite the rigidity and difficulty of processing, many sauna log houses are made from coniferous trees.

Aspen, alder - soft materials with a beautiful texture. The peculiarity of linden is the release of phytoncides when heated, which have healing properties. Oak has all the excellent benefits of quality wood, including high cost. The door to the steam room can be made from any type of wood:

• oak – hard wood valuable breed, but is prone to cracking;
• larch – has a natural antiseptic, is not susceptible to rotting and attacks by bugs;
• linden - releases phytoncides, smells pleasant, but darkens during use and rots quite quickly;
• aspen - the most cheap material, costs 40% less than linden, does not crack when drying;
• pine is a durable species that emits odorous resins;
• spruce is less resinous, but absorbs a lot of moisture and requires drying. Retains its original color for a long time.

From pine and aspen, considering these species suitable for such purposes. Now they have appeared exotic species wood – abashi (African oak), Canadian cedar.

Advice. Whatever type of wood the door for the steam room is made from, it is important to ensure that there are no knots in the door leaf. Exposure to high temperatures, water and steam will cause them to fall out and create holes.

Stocking up on tools and materials

To make a bathhouse door with your own hands, use a standard carpentry set of tools:

• saw (jigsaw, hacksaw);
• milling cutter;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• plane;
• screwdriver, screwdriver, drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• wooden dowels.

The bath will require the following materials:

• timber 50*50 mm – for the pigtail;
• timber of the selected type of wood 60*80 mm of sufficient footage - for making a box;
• ordinary board 50*30 mm - for the door leaf, the timber for tying the door leaf is 5 mm thicker than that of the board;
• loops.

The amount and nature of the material depend on the design of the door. Usually these are blind single-leaf doors, one or two frames, the standard size of which is:

• width – 0.7–0.8 m;
• height – 1.7 m;
• threshold height – 0.15–0.3 m.

Fittings and fasteners are selected from of stainless steel, the handle is made of wood, since the metal one gets very hot, and the plastic one emits harmful fumes when heated. Locking elements should open without problems from the inside, without jamming - for example, latches.

Important. The threshold to the bathhouse (and steam room) is provided with a height of at least 15 cm in order to avoid chilling - heat escaping into the crack under the door.

Let's start the process

The door structure consists of two parts - the frame and the leaf. First you need to make the door frame yourself, then the door leaf and connect them using hinges. Door leaf It is a one- or two-layer connection of boards, framed with or without strapping. A frame is a frame made up of bars and placed in the door opening. The entire process of manufacturing and installing a door involves four stages:

1. preparing the opening, creating a frame;
2. making a box;
3. door leaf (with or without frame);
4. installation of the structure.

Stage 1. Preparing the opening. Adjust the dimensions of the opening according to the width and height of the door. In the middle of the logs of the log house, grooves of 50*50 mm are selected vertically on both sides - under the bars there are frames with the same dimensions, to which the box is then attached.

Stage 2. Creating a box. You can make a box from 50 mm thick bars - two vertical posts and two horizontal crossbars. Tenons are cut out at the ends of the crossbars, and grooves are made in the racks - butt joints are not used, since they are not strong enough. The assembled box is installed in the opening, fixed to the frame with wooden wedges, the verticality of the structure is controlled by a level. WITH outside Quarters are selected around the perimeter of the frame - a seat for the door leaf. For hinges, choose a gap of 2–3 mm.

Stage 3. Manufacturing of the door leaf. Appearance The doors in the bathhouse largely depend on the fabric. It could be:

• from boards;
• from boards with strapping;
• paneled.

The steam room can be as simple as possible - made from boards without a frame, “antique”:

1. The boards are marked and measured according to size (preferably floorboards), and the surface is smoothed with a plane.
2. in any of three ways: smooth ends with or without glue, tongue-and-groove, or quarters selected along the edge, one on top of the other. You can select grooves, tenons or quarter edges yourself using a router, or purchase ready-made tongue and groove boards.
3. Secure the connection with transverse and diagonal bars (jibs) with outside. The obvious way is to screw the crossbars with self-tapping screws. Craftsmen make a recess on the surface for transverse and diagonal bars, using a router or a hacksaw with a chisel. Experienced carpenters make this recess special type"dovetail".
4. Screw the hinges (gate samples are appropriate in this design), hang them, adjust them so that the sash fits tightly and there are no distortions.

The door to the steam room with your own hands can be equipped with a frame - a beam that is attached along the perimeter of the door. Previously, grooves for the canvas are selected in the binding. Additionally, the groove connection is strengthened with self-tapping screws. The dimensions of the door leaf of this model are reduced by the size of the strapping beam, taking into account that the entire door should fit tightly into the frame without large gaps. The step-by-step procedure is as follows:

1. The vertical bars of the strapping frame are marked and cut along the length of the box.
2. Grooves are made from them inside– this will include the canvas and the spikes of the horizontal upper and lower strapping bars.
3. The finished canvas is adjusted to size - its length, added to the width of the upper and lower strapping bars, should be equal to the length of the vertical boards.
4. Tenons are made in the transverse bars at the ends with the calculation of their entry into the grooves of the vertical parts.
5. The entire structure is assembled, the corners are aligned (strictly 90 ̊). The strapping connections are secured with wooden dowels or self-tapping screws.

Experienced craftsmen can make a bathhouse door with their own hands of a complex design - paneled, with numerous panel inserts in a frame consisting of several transverse and longitudinal boards. The connection principles are the same - “tenon and groove”, the inserts fit into the grooves, without the use of glue or self-tapping screws. Such a door is both strong and provides mobility of elements, which allows you to avoid cracking of the wood during expansion and contraction of the structure.

Stage 3. Installation. After the frame and door leaf are ready, all that remains is to install the door in the bathhouse, observing several conditions:

• The door frame is mounted to the frame or into a specially made groove of the opening, which should be 1–1.5 cm wider - firstly, for free manipulation to align the structure, and secondly, taking into account further shrinkage and movement of the beam and door.
• necessary, following the rules fire safety: The door must open outwards. To do this, a quarter sample for the canvas is made from the outside.
• When hanging the canvas, in order to avoid distortions, it is recommended to use three pairs of loops: top, bottom and middle. The distance from the corner point of the sash to the hinges is 20–25 cm.

Entrance doors for a metal bath: installation features

To install a door in a bathhouse, it is not necessary to make the entire entrance structure with your own hands. It is enough to limit your search suitable option on the market and install it yourself. Choose plastic or metal.

The owner decides whether it is advisable to install an iron door in the bathhouse: this model protects the room more reliably than others, but it is heavier and rusts when exposed to moisture. Therefore it is preferable steel door in a bathhouse with anti-corrosion powder coating, although its price is higher.

Besides, hard metal the structure does not shrink like the surrounding frame. When moving, the frame can hang on the door, the distortion of which by one millimeter leads to its blocking. The installation of an iron door in a bathhouse is carried out taking into account this fact - they must make a casing:

1. Grooves are made in the opening on both sides, which are equipped with a special wooden frame.
2. The casing bars are rigidly attached only to the lower logs, serving as a kind of guide for the moving upper logs.
3. Attached to the pigtail wooden box, and to it, in turn, is mounted Iron door to the bathhouse.
4. A 2–4 cm seam is left on top of the box for possible shrinkage of the log house. The seam is foamed, insulated, and hidden under the trim.

Considering the large weight of the door, the bars for the frame and frame should be thick enough.

An installation built from brick or foam blocks is no different from similar work in residential premises. Metal structure It is recommended to insulate it by insulating the fittings - in winter the handle and lock may freeze up.

Making and installing a bathhouse door with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible type of work that brings satisfaction, allows you to save money wisely and acquire useful carpentry skills.

A luxurious bathhouse, made with your own hands from the floorboard to the door handle - isn’t this a source of pride? After all, how interesting it is to understand the little things, learn about new technologies and bring every detail to perfection! There are, of course, stages in the work that are quite complex - such as manufacturing, installing doors to the bathhouse and insulating it. Just a couple of mistakes and an unpleasant draft will become omnipresent. Or even worse - frost forms on the door in a matter of seconds after kindling...

All of the above can be easily avoided if you know how to make a door to a bathhouse - cut out the door frame, insulate it, and install it correctly. And, the most important thing is compliance with the basic requirements:

• High-quality thermal insulation.
• Minimal heat leakage when opening the door.
• The ability to quickly and easily open the door in case of fire.

Many companies today sell special Entrance door to the bathhouse - but for an exorbitantly high price. But it can be done quickly, easily and at minimal cost.

So, how to make a door for a bathhouse - let’s figure it out instead of the portal website

From “old-fashioned” schemes to modern ideas

So, it is advisable to make the height of the entrance bath door no more than 160-170 cm, so that precious heat does not escape into the street. Optimal distance between the jambs - 60-70 cm, and the width of the door is made of such dimensions that will prevent heat loss as much as possible. It is advisable to make the doors to the bathhouse with your own hands single-leaf - so that they open outward.

In total, there are two doors in the bathhouse - one at the entrance to the bathhouse, the second to the steam room. But it happens that the dressing room is also a washing room, especially when the bathhouse, due to budget limitations, was built to be quite miniature. By the way, if glass is needed in the door, then you can only take it special - tempered. Further, the door itself should not turn out to be too voluminous or massive - its main task is thermal insulation, and not protecting something valuable from thieves. Yes, it won’t be difficult to break one from the outside - but even in the event of a fire, vacationers themselves can easily demolish it. And it’s hard to imagine what would happen if a person choking on smoke tried to open a stuck door to a bathhouse, which was made using the latest technology with maximum protection.

The ideal material for making a bath door is wood. It was from this that everything was always made in the old Russian baths - because it perfectly withstands all changes in air humidity and temperature. The handle for the door to the bathhouse can also be made exclusively from wood - otherwise you can get seriously burned. And, by the way, plastic to wood in this case is not the best alternative. And here inner surface It is advisable to treat the doors with antiseptics - the same as for the walls of the bathhouse. But not with drying oil or varnish - they will all release toxic substances into hot and wet air, which is breathed by those who are taking bath procedures at this moment.

The most proven option for a do-it-yourself bathhouse door is tightly knit linden or aspen boards, always in one layer. As soon as the base is ready, the door needs to be insulated - this is important. Moreover, the insulation must be thorough - made of cotton wool, tow, polystyrene foam, felt and mineral wool. The outside will be covered with boards or dermantin, or, in extreme cases, with simple plywood. But under no circumstances should the bath door be heated or deformed by humid and hot air.

Step-by-step instructions for making a wooden door

An amazing fact: many bathhouse attendants notice that the bathhouse doors they made themselves have served faithfully for many years, and there is not a trace of deformation on them, but just expensive works of art purchased from companies for a lot of money with a quality guarantee “especially for the Russian baths" begin to lose their appearance already in the second year. And all because when something is done for oneself, it is always done according to technology, without saving material and certainly without any hackwork. But no one will be responsible for the conscientiousness of workers in the basement of some company. And in the end it turns out that beautiful door, pleasantly smelling of wood, on next year after drying, it begins to “delight” with serious cracks and loss of shape.

So, the most optimal sizes do-it-yourself sauna doors – 1.8 m x 0.7 m. Good wood for these purposes it is alder, aspen and linden. If only available conifers– then they must be processed so that the resin does not release later.

To make one, follow these instructions:

• Step 1. Planed boards are prepared good quality, 5 cm thick. These can be tongue and groove boards from the store, or homemade, but with the selected tongue.
• Step 2. The boards are laid out in a row and leveled. The most rational way to pad them is with PVA sizing.
• Step 3. As soon as the canvas of boards has dried, marks can be applied to the grooves. By the way, the grooves themselves need to be made in the form of a truncated cone. Their optimal depth is half or a quarter of the board, the base of the groove is 5 cm in diameter, the top part is 35 mm.
• Step 4. Now you need to select the grooves - according to the marks. A reward saw will help with this. Using it, you need to make two cuts - at an angle of 45˚, with a depth of a quarter or half of the board. And so that the cutting angle is the same everywhere, a block is attached near the groove - planed at the same angle.
• Step 5. Use a chisel to remove the wood between the cuts and install dowels - these are 5 cm thick bars. However, you can make it thicker - it will only make the door better.
• Step 6. The door is assembled with keys, and everything is checked for geometry and tightness. Why would it be possible to remove the keys and eliminate all the shortcomings.
• Step 7. The keys are punched into the grooves - dry or with glue, and their ends are cut into a cone.

How tight and reliable the fit of the boards and dowels on the glue is - that is how long the door for a bathhouse made by yourself will last.

Installing a door into a log house - all the details of the process

But this is just a door leaf. And it still needs to be installed in the log house. And there are some subtleties here.

So, if the door is installed incorrectly, it will expand by 1 mm each time you use the bath and gain moisture. And this is a fungus and its destruction. That is why at one time they began to be actively used frame structures with panels - so the door swells only along two vertical beams, and the panels are inserted into the groove itself with a gap of 4 mm - this allows them to “walk” regardless of the entire structure. Important point: You can install the door only when the bathhouse frame has already collapsed - this is at least 6-8 months after its assembly. Otherwise, the geometry of the door will be hopelessly damaged - distortions and even serious cracks will occur.

You can use this method, but today they most often do it differently: the door is made with an overlap on the frame on special screw-in hinges - this creates a pretend gap of 5 mm on the side, although it is completely invisible from either the back or the front side. And any seal can easily be squeezed into this fusion.

How are these loops different from regular ones? It's simple: card cards are simply hammered into the entire thickness of the canvas, and after installation they cannot be adjusted - except by lining the washers. But screw-in hinges are used in a different way: the canvas is overtaken around the perimeter, a quarter of the protruding part 18x16 is cut out on it, and you get a rebate on the canvas without a box. The screw-in loop is screwed with the leg into this quarter, and the second into the box. That's the whole technology - if at all times craftsmen made bathhouse doors with one hammer, what can we say about today!

Here's how to install a bath door:

• Stage 1. Dimensions are determined. For example, the canvas was made 80 mm thick, which means the width of the box racks is 120 mm, and their thickness is 50 mm. For all this you will need blanks for a hinged and hinged vertical stand and two horizontal crossbars of the same dimensions and a cross-section of exactly 5x8 cm.
• Stage 2. Two bars of 1.87 meters are made, and horizontal bars are 5-8 cm long in the amount of 2 pieces. In these blanks, quarters for the canvas are selected - measuring 2x8 cm. To do this, you can use a chisel or a regular manual frezer. Moreover, the selected quarter on all workpieces should be in the same plane - parallel to the longitudinal edges of the workpieces. Then there will be no cracks - this has been verified.
• Stage 3. The contours of the hinge flaps are drawn on the hinge stand and seats are milled for them - just according to the thickness of the hinge flap. After this, long blanks are placed on a flat table, and quarters are placed on them.
• Stage 4. From the hinges wooden wedges a gap of 2-3 mm is made, for the rest - 5 mm, this is the only way the future door will open freely.
• Stage 5. Horizontal blanks are applied and their length is measured in accordance with the distance between the edges of the long blanks, and cut off using a hacksaw along the mark.
• Stage 6. Quarters are made in the corners and all elements of the door frame are joined together. For this purpose not yet assembled box The canvas is laid down, the hinges are inserted into place and a gap is created with wedges along the entire contour. The angles are checked - they all must be 90˚.
• Stage 7. Produced final assembly with fixed hinges, gaps are set and the box is fastened with self-tapping screws - 2 pcs. at each joint. And to prevent cracks from appearing at the joints over time, holes should be drilled 0.5 mm larger than the largest diameter of the self-tapping screw, while in the quarter that is fastened together - 2 mm smaller. That's the whole secret.

All that remains is to check the door - if it opens freely and completely and closes without any gaps - everything was done correctly.

Making a door for a bathhouse with your own hands is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Even the most minor defects during manufacture and installation can create many problems: poor thermal insulation, drafts, deformation and distortion - all this will have a bad effect on the further operation of the door. Let's find out how to make a bath door without making mistakes.

Types of material and requirements for a modern bathhouse door

First of all, the door to the steam room must have good thermal insulation. Secondly, you should be able to open and close the structure without effort - this is very important in case of emergency evacuation from the house. Do not forget about such door properties as reliability, strength and durability. The finished door to your bathhouse should be resistant to fluctuations in temperature and humidity levels.

There are two types of materials from which do-it-yourself bathhouse doors are most often made. These include glass and wood. The first material is suitable for equipping saunas and baths located inside a residential building. If you use glass for a steam room outside the house, then such material should be either triplex or hardened. To work, you will also need to purchase special accessories, the cost of which is quite high.

The second option is the most convenient and economical. Wood is very easy to process, inexpensive and environmentally friendly. It is this material that is most often purchased in order to make a steam room door with your own hands.

Wooden door - what tools are needed for the job

The height and width of the steam room door should always be less than standard dimensions doorways in a residential building. The compact design is necessary to minimize heat losses in the waiting room. Thus, the door should be no more than 170 cm in height and approximately 75 cm wide. The structure should only open outward. Thus, you will save space in the dressing room and significantly reduce heat losses each time you open and close. To make a door with your own hands, you can use birch, pine or linden wood. After purchasing the material, it must be kept for a couple of days in the room where the work will be carried out.

Before you make a door to the bathhouse with your own hands, you need to prepare materials and equipment. You will need:

• boards with a tongue and groove connection, 170 cm long and 205 cm wide. Their thickness should not exceed 2.8 cm;
• timber for tying the frame;
• can of PVA glue;
• outer covering - lining or leatherette;
• any insulation;
• several dozen screws;
• handles and hinges:
• carpentry tools;
• plane;
• clamps;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• tape measure and hammer;
• level and bar.

Having everything you need, you can get to work. We advise you to draw an exact plan for the future structure in advance. In it you must indicate all the dimensions of the door, the presence or absence of openings for windows. By sticking to your drawing, you will allow much more less mistakes.

Making a structure - a detailed algorithm for beginners

To make a door to a steam room with your own hands, first of all you will need to make a canvas. It is very important that the finished structure has a length and width 6 cm less than indicated in your drawing. You use this distance to secure the harness.

So, first you need to cut the purchased boards - in the end, each of them should have a length of 164 cm. On the first board you need to cut off the protruding tenon to get an even, smooth end. After this, proceed to assembling the door leaf. Before doing this, it is advisable to place the boards together without fastening them to ensure that they are all cut to the same length.

After this, the main assembly must be carried out. You will need to pour glue into each of the grooves. This will increase the strength of the canvas. It is likely that the width of the product will be slightly larger than planned. In this case, the end board must be cut to length to the required dimensions and attached to the canvas. During the assembly process, tap the boards with a hammer so that they fit better into the grooves.

Place the finished canvas on a flat place. Squeeze it from above and on the sides, thereby creating a press effect. This will improve the connection between the boards. You can also secure the product to the workbench tabletop using clamps. After this, the canvas must be left for a couple of days. Next, the surface of the product will need to be processed with a plane. Remove no more than 3 mm, and immediately putty any gaps that appear.

The next step will be attaching the strapping. To do this, the boards are tied with timber at the ends. The latter is attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Do not butt the strapping at the corners of the fabric. In addition, stiffening ribs need to be made on the outside of the product. They should be across the canvas. So, your door is almost ready.

One of finishing touches the processing of the canvas will become special protective composition, which will protect the wood from bugs and rotting. To do this, you need to purchase any oil antiseptic in the store.

After the wood has absorbed protective agent, the canvas will need to be insulated. For this purpose it can be used mineral wool or isolon. It is very important to buy insulation, the thickness of which does not exceed one centimeter. Otherwise, the design will be very cumbersome. Finish the inside of the canvas with wood paneling no more than 7 mm thick.

We make a box and install the canvas - reliable fastening for long-term use

Having looked at how to make a door to a bathhouse with your own hands step by step, you need to learn how to install the leaf on the door frame. To do this, you need to cut grooves in the top and side openings of the wall. Their dimensions should be 5 mm larger than the width of the door frame beam. This reserve will be intended to correct the deformation of the canvas after its installation.

To make a door frame, use a beam with a cross-section of 6x15 cm. Select the material so that the thickness of the door leaf is 5 cm less than the width of the frame posts. On the outside of the lower, upper crossbar and racks you will need to cut a groove into which the canvas will rest. This element is also necessary to protect the dressing room from drafts. Try not to make a mistake with the position of the groove - its recess should be located on the outside of the leaf, because your door should swing outward.

After fixing to the canvas, the timber must be cleaned over its entire surface, using sandpaper. You must remove all visible chips and other defects in the wood. After this, you need to connect the top jumper of the box and the corners of the rack. Next, the entire structure needs to be leveled using a level. As a result, you should not see any distortions.

Fastening fittings and installing the door into the opening

Once you are done with making the canvas and the box, you can start fixing the fittings. For this you need to use at least 3 sets of loops. Fix the first set at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the second at a height of 50 cm. The last set must be fixed at a height of at least 145 cm from the floor. By arranging the hinges in this way, you will prevent distortions in the structure.

Never forget about the lock and handles. Carved wood handles will help make the door very original. In addition, products made from this material will perfectly complement the overall style of your door.

Upon completion of fastening the fittings, it is necessary to hang the leaf on the door frame. Make sure your door opens and closes effortlessly. If the ends of the leaf cling to the timber of the door frame, then in the future this problem will become even more noticeable, as the material will swell, and even more effort will have to be applied to open the door.

This shortcoming can be eliminated in two ways. The first of them is re-hanging the loops and moving them 5 cm higher. The second method is to widen the groove on the door frame pillars. It is quite possible that the door leaf is warped due to incorrectly attached fittings.

To protect against drafts, it is necessary to clog all the cracks between the frame and the opening with felt or fill them polyurethane foam. To hide defects, areas around the box must be covered with strips or specially purchased platbands.

Bath door - simple design. But if not made according to technological requirements, it can cause a draft in the room or loss of heat. How comfortable the hygienic and healthy procedure will be depends on the correct assembly and installation of the door.

Material for bath doors

The most popular raw material used in the construction of bathhouse doors is wood. The material provided by nature is characterized by several undoubted advantages:

• environmental cleanliness;
• ease of processing;
• good thermal insulation;
• attractive look.

Glass doors are often installed in bathhouses. Transparent and durable material has the following advantages:

• immunity to elevated temperature(unlike metal and wood, glass does not become hot);
• resistance to dampness;
• ease of care (glass can be cleaned by wiping with a sponge);
• aesthetic appearance;
• protection from mold.

The glass door panel is completely transparent

An exceptional disadvantage of glass as a material for a bath door is that it is sold at a high price. It is practically impossible to make a glass sheet yourself, that is, not in a factory.

The raw material for the manufacture of bathhouse doors can be metal. It has the following positive characteristics:

• long service life, because the metal does not become covered with fungus and does not rot;
• strength (the material always retains its shape).

But it is logical to use metal only in some cases, since it has a significant drawback. The material is unsuitable for the construction of doors separating the steam room from the washing room. It is recommended to use it only to create a structure installed at the entrance to the bathhouse.

Sometimes a bath door is made of heat-resistant plastic, characterized by the following properties:

• first-class strength;
• long service life;
• unsurpassed reliability;
• immunity to moisture and temperature changes.

The disadvantage of bath doors made of heat-resistant plastic is their unattractive appearance. But you can forget about this significant drawback if you do plastic door with imitation of natural wood.

Creating a door structure from wood

The best materials from which you can make doors to a bathhouse are considered to be boards cut from oak, aspen and exotic trees. This raw material will not be allowed out of the premises. warm air, will not deteriorate under the influence of different temperatures and will serve without problems long years. The material for the manufacture of bath door structures is often pine. However, it is better to use it to create doors at the entrance to the room. Pine is not suitable for building a structure at the border between a washing room and a steam room, since it can release resin when heated.

Create doors in a room with high humidity it is necessary only from high-quality wood. It is customary to install a structure made of oak or cedar on the south side of the bathhouse in order to protect the wood from drops of slanting rain and thereby prevent the material from rotting.

The parts of a wooden door are supposed to be connected with dowels, which will make it strong and prevent heat loss.

Materials needed

To understand what materials will be required in the process of making a wooden door, and how much of them will be needed, you need to draw up drawings indicating dimensions. If you plan to insulate the entrance structure modern materials, that is, it makes sense to make it not small, as in the old days, but large - in full height person. The traditional parameters of the door to the bathhouse are 2×0.8 m.

The construction of a bath door structure requires the purchase of the following materials:

• 4 boards measuring 3x20 cm with longitudinal protrusions on the edge;
• timber with parameters 30×20 mm, which reinforces a wooden sheet;
• timber 30×30 mm, necessary for tying a piece of wood;
• adhesive composition to fill the grooves;
• self-tapping screws;
• hinged hinges;
• wooden door handles.

If you want to install a door not inside the room, but at the entrance, you will have to purchase additional materials:

• mineral wool or other type of insulation;
• leatherette and nails for attaching it;
• wire;
• batting;
• locks and fittings for it.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

• anchor bolts;
• timber having a cross-section of 11×6 cm;
• polyurethane foam;
• pretend slats.

Required Tools

The construction of a wooden door for a bathhouse is carried out using certain tools:

• an electric jigsaw that cuts wood parts;
• a screwdriver, which will be useful when assembling the frame;
• a plane that removes unevenness in wood;
• caliper;
• clamps fixing boards;
• tape measures and building level for measurements;
• hammer drill with drills of different sizes;
• hammer and scissors.

Instructions for making a wooden door

Independent construction of a wooden door for a bath implies the following:

1. Boards with notches on the edge are cut to length. Along the perimeter of the resulting canvas, a 3 cm wide beam is attached, which serves as a strapping. In order to create a door 2 m high by joining tongue-and-groove boards and timber, the wooden elements must be cut to a length of 1.94 m.
2. The boards are placed next to each other, conditionally creating a door 0.8 m wide (including the strapping). One of wooden elements reduce by 60 mm using an electric jigsaw.
3. A tenon is cut off from the tongue-and-groove board that will stand first in the row. To do this, it is advisable to use a plane. The end is processed carefully, eliminating irregularities and avoiding the formation of deformations and depressions.
4. Customized to fit required sizes The boards are fastened together to see if the cutting is done correctly.
5. The beam, which will become the binding of the wooden sheet, is cut into 4 parts: 2 segments 2 m long and 2 segments 74 cm each.
6. The tongue and groove boards are glued together using white adhesive and clamps. The product is poured into the recesses on the workpieces, and the clamps are attached to the corners. The boards will fit tightly into the grooves if you assemble them with a wooden mallet. In order for the work to proceed without difficulty, it is recommended to place the canvas on a workbench, as if creating a press effect, which will help to better glue the door elements.
7. After a few days, the dried canvas is processed with a plane. There is no need to be zealous in this matter, because you just need to make the boards smooth by removing the splinters.
8. Sections of timber (tiring) are attached to the sides of the canvas using self-tapping screws, the length of which is greater than the width of the wooden fragments. Fasteners immerse into the recesses of the door leaf by 3 cm. In the area of ​​​​the corners, it is recommended to fasten the workpieces by making overlaps.
9. Transverse strips are attached to the structure to enhance the rigidity of the door. If it is installed at the entrance, then the elements located across the structure are mounted on the front side of the door. The canvas that will separate the rooms of the room can only be reinforced with 2 slats, fixed at the top and bottom of the door structure.
10. Attached to the door door hinges and pens.
11. The finished structure is coated with a transparent product necessary for wood processing and which does not emit harmful substances when heated.

1. To the spaces between cross bars attach insulation.
2. Cover the door leaf with a piece of leatherette, allowing you to make allowances of 60 mm.
3. Nail the leatherette to the stiffening ribs using nails with large heads.
4. Make rollers around the perimeter of the door frame to cover the gap from the door leaf to the door.

Installation of the structure

When starting to install a wooden door, you must keep in mind that the structure should not be skewed. With tilted pillars, the door will not be able to open freely. To ensure that the operation of the door structure is not difficult, it is installed in stages:

Video: how to assemble a wooden door

Assembling a glass door structure

Such doors are made only from glass, the thickness of which is at least 8 mm. This material is heat resistant, that is, when exposed to high temperature it will not burst, and the door will not be deformed. The glass door leaf should not be closed tightly so that the room does not become stuffy. To do this, a space of about 5 cm in height is created between the door and the threshold.

Necessary materials

The choice of material is influenced by what kind of glass door you plan to make. It can be created from a single sheet and supplemented metal loops with a handle. If this option is not to your liking, then the door is made with glass inserts, that is, from lumber or paneled boxes. You can create and install a solid glass sheet yourself. It is advisable to purchase a sheet standard sizes: height 1.7 m and width 0.8 m.

In order for the glass door between the washing room and the dressing room to look aesthetically pleasing, its leaf should be tinted or decorated with a pattern. You shouldn’t buy completely transparent glass for one more reason: it’s invisible, and therefore everyone will bump into it during their first visits to the bathhouse.

In addition to the glass sheet, to make the door you will need:

Tools

To assemble a door from prepared materials you will need several tools:

• screwdriver;
• drill with a metal drill bit (if door frame made of metal);
• glass cutter;
• hammer;
• building level.

Guide to creating and installing a glass door

Glass door design produced in stages:

Video: glass door installation

Making a door for a bathhouse from wood or glass is a difficult task, but doable. Most often the door leading to bath room, they make it wooden, since only a few people can use a glass cutter.