Good stoves for a brick house. How to build a brick stove for a home or cottage. Choosing a furnace installation location

Stove heating country houses Today he is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that it can create simple stove made of brick, even made with your own hands. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which it is installed in the room optimal humidity. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is environmentally friendly pure material, which means that when operating the heating device you don’t have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then best option, than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device, equipped with a hob. Ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. Oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power, taken from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​​​are adjusted to the dimensions standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides external finishing walls, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows what benefits it provides right choice places.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from brick chimney There must be at least 130 mm of free space to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the furnace will be built in finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle zone It is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. At a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, it is possible to make masonry mortar and independently - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment by mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best lineup is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Decide on the type of heating device, make preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give necessary recommendations during construction.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare necessary elements structures. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche on it side walls lay steel strips that will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely located metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. Complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for a long time. for long years operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, due to my studies in technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Brick stoves for home use can be indispensable in many buildings. Especially if there is no gas line nearby.

Also this design quite heat-intensive and can help save on heating costs. But before construction, you need to understand what kind of brick stove is needed for your home. After all, there are several types of them and each of them is most effective in its own direction.

Today we will look at the options for this design, and you can choose the most optimal one. Also in the video in this article and photos you can see everything clearly and this will help you make the right decision.

What is attractive about a brick oven?

This design can be made, in principle, with your own hands. But it is not so cheap that you can just pick it up and install it.

Attention: If a brick oven is made in timber house, then making fire safety measures is not so easy. So there may be problems with permitting systems. And this must be taken into account.

First you need to understand how suitable it is for you:

• Such designs are very heat-intensive and high efficiency is guaranteed. A thick wall retains heat for a long time after heating. And if the room is insulated, then it can be warmed up in a couple of hours;
• This design is suitable for many buildings. If this is a bathhouse, then you simply cannot think of a more optimal option.
• Even after installation, you can connect the water circuit and make stationary heating of the room;
• Enough big choice designs. Everyone can pick up the right option. Moreover, some models are quite cheap and everyone can afford it;
• Finishing is done different materials . So in terms of design it's hard to wish for more. You can make almost any style.

Furnace designs

Laying a brick oven for a home is not fundamentally different. After all, the operating principle is the same.

Let's look at what a brick oven consists of:

Slab foundation for oven	This is the foundation on which the entire structure stands. The most commonly used is a slab or strip foundation. It all depends on the weight of the structure. If the oven is voluminous, then the belt option should be used.
Furnace part	This is the space where fuel burns. Sometimes this part is made of metal. Then the work takes less time and does not require great qualifications. But in such a chamber it will not be possible to use all types of fuel. It will simply quickly become unusable. If you plan to use coal for the fire, then you will need to make the firebox from a refractory material.
Ash pit installation	This is not a large chamber where combustion waste accumulates. It has a width equal to the combustion part. But it is done below. By height.
Cast iron grates	Fuel is placed here. The material can be metal. But you won’t be able to drink coal on it. For him, the grate bars are made of cast iron.
Chimney installation	This part of the stove can be made of metal or simply lined with brick. The second option is more often used. It is less labor-intensive and subsequently the metal can be perfectly covered with facing material.

Designs may differ from each other in the dimensions of the listed components and materials of manufacture. But they all should be.

Attention: Finishing of brick stoves in houses is done only with materials that do not support combustion. And this condition is mandatory.

Main types of brick kiln

Brick stoves for the home can have different purposes. So first of all, you need to understand why exactly you will be doing it. After all, not just the price of the installation, but also its functionality will depend on this.

Heating

This brick stove in the house will help warm up the space and also save money. For such a stove, the volume of the room is important; its volume will depend on this.

The body in this version is made of brick and it itself retains heat for a long time. The larger the combustion part, the larger the volume of the room that can be heated.

• This oven in its design does not provide for cooking;
• At the design stage, you need to think about what kind of heating circuit it will have. After all, if you have water heating, then you need to provide a water circuit that will need to be brought into the firebox;
• Long-burning stoves are the most popular here. For them, one load of fuel can be enough for a day;
• The fuel for a heating stove can be either gas or solid fuel. If you choose the first option, then you should immediately install automation, which will help support the most optimal combustion option.

Attention: For a heating stove, it is important how much water it heats up and in what time. Therefore, the design of the firebox itself is quite important.

Cooking

A brick stove for a home can be quite small in size and weight. It is not intended for heating, but only for cooking. Most often used for installation in country houses.

• For such a design, it will be possible not to install a foundation. It is completely do-it-yourself and therefore installation costs can be minimal.
• All street structures can easily be included in this category. These can be barbecues or barbecues. So the comfortable cooking of the oven is impeccable.
• You can also cook food in the country without any problems. To install it, you will not need a gas supply and do a planned installation.

Heating and cooking stoves

Brick stoves for this type of home are the most common. They combine the functions of the first two types. But this design also has several types. They are different in their structure, the functionality is the same, this is a combination of heating and cooking.

Let's look at the varieties of these products:

Shvedka stove	Data brick stoves The most compact option for the home. It is relatively small in size. But small room can warm up quickly enough. It has a significant difference: it can be heated with almost all types of fuel. But the quality of the materials must be high. There is also a stove for cooking.
Dutch oven	Ideally, this design has no place for cooking, but in our time this is a thing of the past. There is already a stove here. The stove can have a round or square shape. The walls are made maximum brick thick, so there is no need to make a strong foundation here. Wood is used for the firebox and the heat transfer is quite high.
Russian stove	This brick stove for the home is the largest of the first two options. Nowadays it can be found not so often. It's expensive to install. But on the topic of heat transfer, it is perhaps the best. It will not be possible to make such a design yourself. So you will have to hire specialists.

Of course, you can make a brick oven for your home yourself. But if it is not a complex design. If you are thinking of making a large and multifunctional oven, then you should not do it without practice.

Brick stoves for a wood-burning house in some situations are a necessity, since they may be the only way to heat a residential building due to the lack of gas supply and in order to save electricity. However, very often stoves are installed additionally, as they can not only protect family budget from unnecessary expenses, but also to bring comfort into the house, providing it with special healing warmth.

Despite the emergence of various modern types of heating, brick stoves remain in demand today. This encourages both engineers and craftsmen to continue working on new designs, which is why more and more advanced, functional and heat-intensive heating structures appear.

There are quite a lot of models of brick kilns, and choosing the right one from them will not be difficult. But at the same time, it is necessary to take into account several important conditions that are mandatory for the effective and safe operation of this home assistant - a real stove.

Variety of furnace designs

Brick stoves, according to their functionality, can be divided into three main categories: cooking, heating-cooking and heating structures, for example. In addition to them, there are also multifunctional options, including a fireplace, a hot water tank and even a water circuit - for heating an area larger than the building itself can heat alone. Therefore, if you decide to install a brick stove in your house, first of all you need to decide on the choice of model.

• The cooking version of the stove is usually chosen for installation in dacha conditions, if the owners live there only during the summer season. Sometimes such a stove is installed in a private house in addition to a gas or electric heating– in order to save fuel, which is more expensive than firewood. A hob is usually equipped with a hob, an oven, and sometimes a hot water tank. It usually has a fairly compact size, but is still capable of heating the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself will not take up much space.

A heating and cooking stove is a whole multifunctional complex

• A heating and cooking stove is a complex that may include several functions necessary for everyday use - these include hob, an oven, a tank for heating water, niches for drying plant products, a stove bench, a fireplace, and sometimes a water circuit. This design will help out in any situation, so it is most often installed in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, they are often in no hurry to abandon such stoves even if there are gas boiler heating.

• The heating stove is intended only for heating a house or bath rooms. The design does not have a hob or oven, but a water heating tank can be built in and a fireplace function can be present. Such a stove can heat two or even three small rooms, when properly integrated into the walls between rooms.

In addition to the functional purpose, it is necessary to decide on the shape and size of the stove. This criterion will depend on the layout of the house and the area that can be allocated for its installation. You also need to take into account the heat capacity of the structure, that is, an indicator that determines how much area the selected stove can heat.

Thus, large stoves with thick walls are able to distribute heat over a large area, but the duration of their combustion to achieve heating is about 1.5–2 hours. Compact, small-sized stoves heat up and release heat much faster, approximately within 35-40 minutes. Moreover, in order to heat them, less fuel is required, which means they are more economical. Therefore, when choosing a model, you must definitely find out its power characteristics and what area they are designed for.

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Choosing a location for installing a brick kiln

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location would be to be built into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, when small area At home, you can get by with one heating structure if the heat-transferring surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they open.

The location chosen for construction must be carefully measured and some points taken into account:

• The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick stove must fit well into the space in terms of its height.
• The foundation for the furnace must be 110÷120 mm larger than its base, and an area of ​​suitable size must also be provided for it.
• When laid upward, the chimney pipe should not collide with the floor beams or rafter legs roofing structure.

Basic materials and components for laying a brick oven

In addition to bricks and mortar, other materials and elements will be required to build a stove. Their nomenclature, quantity and size will depend on the selected model of the heating structure.

So, the following cast iron components may be required for a brick stove:

1 – door of the ash pan (blower);

2 – combustion door;

3 – doors for installation on cleaning channels;

4 – chimney duct valve;

5 – burner rings installed on the hob holes;

6 – hob;

7 – grate.

In addition to cast iron, you will need to prepare some steel parts or assemblies that are included in the design of the stove. It could be:

1. Oven.
2. Hot water tank.
3. Metal strips of different lengths and widths.
4. A metal corner, most often measuring 50x50 mm.
5. Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm.
6. Steel sheet for decking in front of the firebox.
7. Roofing iron - sometimes required to cover the cooking chamber.

For the masonry itself, you will need materials that are selected in accordance with the masonry diagram and the list (table) usually attached to it:

1. Red brick.
2. Fireclay brick.
3. The components for clay mortar are sand and clay, or ready-made heat-resistant clay, sold in specialized stores.
4. Materials for the foundation - they can be different: crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, rubble stone, boards for formwork, roofing felt for waterproofing.
5. Asbestos sheet and cord.

Marking and arrangement of the foundation

It is impossible to begin work on laying a furnace if a building for this structure has not been created reliable foundation, since the structure will be quite massive.

• First, there is a marking of the place where the base for the stove will be installed - the foundation. It should be taken into account that the chimney pipe, when passing through attic floor must pass at a distance of no less than 120÷150 mm from wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floor boards will be cut for the foundation, a plumb line is used, which is fixed to the ceiling at the required distance from the floor beam. After the plumb line stops, a mark is made on the floor at one of the corners of the stove. Also, the remaining corner parts are marked with dots, and then the resulting plan is verified with a building level and a corner. Next, you should draw on the floor the shape of the future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than the stove base by at least 100 - 150 mm in each direction). Based on the resulting markings, the floor boards will be cut out so as to reach the ground.

Here it should be immediately noted that the foundation of the stove and the house should not be common. Moreover, they should not be connected. The shrinkage of the foundations of the stove and the house itself are different, and it may turn out that with a connected foundation, one building will pull another along with it.

• Next, the floor boards are cut out and dismantled, and a pit is dug in the exposed soil with a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the earth.
• The foundation can be made of rubble stone or brick. If the base is built from rubble stone, then installation of formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay the dirt-free stone in layers, each of which is filled with concrete mortar. It is very important to ensure that there are no unfilled voids between the masonry stones.

• The masonry above the ground continues in the formwork, made in the form of a box, the boards of which must be tightly fitted to each other. To ensure that the solution dries evenly and the liquid is not absorbed into the wood of the formwork, it is recommended to cover it from the inside with thick polyethylene, which is secured with staples on the boards.
• The foundation must be 140 mm below the finished floor level.
• The surface of the rubble-cement base is leveled for the next stage of work.
• Next, two rows of brickwork are installed on a flat and dry surface, and after the mortar has dried, two layers of roofing material are laid on it, which acts as waterproofing.

It is also quite possible to have the foundation slab completely poured into the formwork, with the installation of a steel reinforcing structure. True, expense concrete mortar in this case it will be much higher.

Preparing bricks for masonry work

As you know, the main material for laying a furnace is red brick of normal firing. Well, the walls and bottom of the firebox are laid out from fireproof fireclay material. You can, of course, use selected red brick for the combustion chamber, but you need to take into account that its service life is much shorter than fire-resistant brick.

First of all, the purchased brick must be carefully sorted and those that have significant cracks and chips must be rejected. If used brick is used for masonry, it must be cleaned of soot and old mortar.

The prepared red brick is soaked in water for at least 12–14 hours. Fireclay only needs to be rinsed with water before use to remove dust.

The preparation process also includes splitting bricks into pieces, since when laying a furnace, not only whole bricks are needed, but also halves, ¾ - three-quarters, ¼ - quarters and even sometimes smaller fragments. To make it easier to determine the parts of the brick by size, the handle of the pick-hammer is measured and notches are made corresponding to the size of half, ¼ or ¾ of its part.

To obtain the fragmentary parts necessary for masonry, the brick is split or chipped. Hewing is carried out if it is necessary to have a brick cut at an angle.

For hewing, bricks that do not have cracks are taken. To do everything correctly, you need to take the brick with your left hand and, holding it in weight, use a pick to mark the area on its edges that needs to be cut off.

The marking is applied at an angle along the marked line. Then the corners are chipped off by hitting the sides of the brick. Hewn surfaces will turn out rough, and in order to bring them to an even, smooth state, they are rubbed in with bricks.

To split a brick into even pieces (this process is called pinning by stove makers), you need to take quality brick no cracks. The pinning process is also carried out by weight.

If a brick needs to be divided in half, it is also taken in left hand, and the part that needs to be separated is measured on it. Then, along the tongue side of the brick, a shallow groove is made along the marked line. After this, the brick is turned over with the groove down, and a sharp blow is applied to it with a hammer strike in the area of ​​the intended line.

Brick splitting techniques - 2

If it is necessary to separate less than half of a whole brick, then a groove is made at the site of the future split on all sides of the brick. In this case, it splits with a strong blow to the furrow on one of the spoon sides. If necessary, you can break off the corner part in the same way.

If you need to split a brick not across, but lengthwise, then the marking is carried out along its narrow side, and the groove along the marking is made deeper, since it splits along the brick much more difficult and can crumble.

If you need to round the corners of a brick, you will need a special tool - this could be a machine or a grinder with a stone wheel.

Preparation of masonry mortar

A very important stage of work can be called the preparation of clay mortar, which is used when laying the main mass of the furnace. You also need to know that clay mortar is not suitable for constructing a chimney or arranging a foundation. For this purpose, concrete mixtures are more often used, or several parts of cement are added to the clay solution.

The masonry furnace seam should not exceed 8 mm in thickness, otherwise cracks will appear on it, and through them oxygen can penetrate into the structure, which will reduce the efficiency of the furnace. In addition, during combustion, carbon monoxide can leak into the room, which is extremely dangerous for human health and even life. Therefore, the solution must be prepared from high-quality clay and sifted fine sand with a grain fraction of no more than 1 mm. The solution should be homogeneous, without lumps or foreign inclusions.

Clay solutions are divided into lean, normal and fatty. Their quality directly depends on the correctly selected clay.

• Thin solutions are not plastic, are fragile and crumble heavily.
• Normal mixtures have the correct proportions and consist of medium-fat clay and sifted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically do not crack after complete drying, do not shrink strongly and do not change their volume. Therefore, they will be the most suitable option for stove masonry.
• Fatty solutions are plastic, but tend to crack when drying. But this mixture composition can be corrected by “thinning” it by adding sand.

The correct thickness of the clay solution is no less important than plasticity. Therefore, the consistency of the masonry mixture should resemble medium-thick dough, and when compressed between two wet bricks, it should be easily squeezed out under their weight.

Before mixing the solution, you must check the quality of the clay. The process of checking the finished solution can be carried out in three ways, but first it must be made using the method of selecting ingredients - clay and sand in proportions.

Usually several versions of the solution are prepared in small quantities. Each solution contains different proportions:

• Pure clay without added sand.
• Clay 90%, sand 10%.
• Clay 75%, sand 25%.
• Clay 25%, sand 75%.

The solutions are mixed well with the addition of water until the consistency of a thick dough that does not stick to your hands. Then you can move on to testing it.

A. From each solution option, balls with a diameter of 35÷40 mm and plates with a thickness of 15÷25 mm are made. All these products are left to dry at room temperature for 7–9 days.

After this time, a check must be carried out. Those products that gave fewer cracks, and the balls thrown from a height of 1000 mm onto the floor did not disintegrate, have the required proportions for stove masonry.

You can compress the solution, rolled into balls, between two wooden plates to a thickness of 7 mm and leave to dry at room temperature. The solution that will produce fewer cracks is selected.

B. Another testing option that does not require a long wait is the tensile test. To do this, flagella 10÷15 mm thick and 120÷170 mm long are made from solutions with different proportions. Then the flagella try to stretch. The mixture will be suitable if the rope breaks, stretching at the point of break to a thickness of 2–3 mm.

IN. A third option could be rolling ready-made solutions into a bundle and rolling it around a round wooden stick with a diameter of 40÷50 mm. The solution from which the rope is made, which gave fewer cracks when drying and remained intact, is perfect for masonry work.

Having chosen the optimal solution in proportions, it must be kneaded correctly.

• The clay is soaked for one to two days, and then, while wet, is rubbed through a sieve made of a metal mesh with cells of 3 ÷ 3.5 mm.
• The sand is sifted.
• Next, the required amount of clay and sand is measured out according to the experimentally determined proportions, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth.

A properly prepared solution does not lose its adhesive properties indefinitely. If it dries out, just add liquid to it and mix well again.

For laying fireclay bricks, a special solution is prepared, consisting of pure clay and fireclay sand in 1:1 proportions.

Price for masonry mixture for stoves

masonry mixture for stoves

General recommendations for laying a brick oven

After the foundation has gained the necessary strength, and the bricks, mortar, metal and cast iron parts will be prepared, you can proceed to marking the first row and the masonry itself.

• Marking the first row.

On a waterproofing sheet (roofing felt), laid on the foundation with an indentation from its edge, the bricks of the first row are laid dry around the perimeter. First, corner bricks are installed, then intermediate bricks along the perimeter; a gap of 5÷6 mm must be left between them, which will be filled with mortar during the test laying. Angles are measured according to the building level and angle. To make sure that the row is laid out evenly, use a tape measure to measure its diagonals - they must have the same length.

The geometry of the first row is extremely important for the entire furnace structure, so measurements must be carried out with the highest possible accuracy. In order not to get lost when performing the control laying, the row laid out dry should be outlined with chalk.

• Checking row horizontality.

Next, the row is laid out on the solution. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the first, corner brick, and a thicker layer to the second. Then, a building level is installed on the two laid bricks, which is used to press on the second brick, thereby achieving their alignment in a perfectly horizontal plane. In the same way, 3 and 4 bricks are laid out and so on according to the scheme.

• Carrying out masonry.

In order for the masonry to be even at the corners of the stove, with external parties Vertical plumb cords are pulled and attached to the ceiling and floor. If the stove is being built by a master for the first time, instead of cords it is best to install formwork bars from the ceiling to the floor. They are set to the building level and securely fixed in the correct position.

At this stage, using a trowel or spatula, the solution is applied to the first laid out row in a layer of 9÷10 mm.

A corner brick is laid on top of it. Then the mortar is applied to the end side of the second brick and also leveled. The second brick is laid in the place prepared for it, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a hammer. The solution that appears between the rows is selected with a trowel. In this case, it is advisable to carefully clean the bricks immediately so that the mortar does not have time to set.

If you are not sure that the seams will be the same, you can use plastic or wooden calibrator slats with a thickness equal to the required thickness of the seam. Such calibration devices are placed on the finished row before installing the next one. You need to prepare enough such slats so that there are enough of them for three rows. Having laid out these rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam and transferred to the top one - and so on until the very top of the structure being built.

If finishing material is not applied to the walls of the furnace, then the seams are carefully processed with a special tool called “jointing”.

Processing seams for jointing

It is very important to take into account that the next row of stove masonry should begin only after the previous one is completely completed. No “ladders” are allowed.

The horizontality of each row is necessarily controlled by the building level.

So that the heated air, circulating through the internal channels, does not encounter obstacles in the form of protruding solution, and smoothly slides along the walls from the combustion chamber to the chimney pipe, the solution must also be removed from the internal walls. This process can be carried out using a sponge brush, which is used to rub in the unset solution, moistening it with water if necessary. Such grouting is carried out upon completion of the laying of every 4-5 rows or if it is necessary to install a vertical ceiling that will close the oven cavity.

If you plan to finish the oven externally, then use a plaster solution consisting of clay, lime and sand in proportions 1:1:3. For heat resistance, 0.2÷0.3 parts of crushed asbestos are added to this composition. True, existing modern sanitary standards do not welcome the use of asbestos in residential premises.

• Floor installation.

There are quite a lot of different ceilings in the design of any furnace, and they all have their own characteristics, depending on the area of ​​their arrangement.

So, when covering the door of the fuel chamber and the internal openings of the furnace, it is advisable to do this without metal parts.

If a model is selected that has an arched ceiling of the cooking chamber, then the arch is constructed using a special formwork that has a semicircular shape. This formwork is called “circling”.

The laying of arched vaults is carried out with the obligatory bandaging of the seams, which means that there is always an odd number of rows in the vault. In the lower part of the arch, the seams should be perfectly straight and have a thickness of no more than 5 mm.

The vault is laid out from the bottom to the top of the arch, first on one side of the circle, then on the second, and only after that the central final locking row is laid out.

• Installation of stove cast iron and metal elements.

All metal elements of the furnace, as is known, expand when heated, so thermal gaps must be formed around them, which are created using asbestos material. In some cases, asbestos cord is used, in others, strips of the required width and length are cut from a single sheet of this material. Thus, the door of the combustion chamber and the oven are wrapped with asbestos cord, and strips are laid under the hob.

Metal doors are secured to masonry joints using twisted wire. On the back wall of the metal door frame there are always special “ears” into which the wire is inserted, and then its ends are twisted together.

The wire attached to the lower “ears” is embedded in the seams of the row on which the door is installed, and the upper twists are placed between the rows, one of which will be located on the same level as the top of the door frame, and the second above it.

Before fastening in the seams, the door is aligned to the building level or using a plumb line.

The blower and cleaning door does not require wrapping with asbestos cord, since it does not heat up to very high temperatures. The gaps between them and the brick can be sealed with clay mortar.

If a metal strip is to be used to cover the fire door, then a gasket of asbestos strip must be made between it and the frame.

The smoke valve frame is also mounted on a clay mortar, but this work must be carried out carefully so that the solution does not fall into the grooves of the frame along which the valve must move.

Drying the finished oven

Upon completion of the construction of the furnace, under no circumstances should you heat it immediately at full power, otherwise the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, you first need to dry it, which is carried out in the following order:

• All doors and valves in the oven are opened, and in this state it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the ambient air temperature. In this case, excess moisture from the mortar and the bricks themselves will evaporate naturally.

Forced drying is undesirable, but it has to be used if, say, the temperature outside is not high enough for the solution to dry out properly. To do this, place a regular 200÷300 W electric light bulb inside the combustion chamber and leave it burning for the entire drying period, which will last from 6 to 10 days.

• After this time, the oven begins to heat up. a small amount chips or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and adding 0.2 kg to this amount daily. This process is carried out over approximately 10 days. Well, after this you can begin to fully fire the well-dried structure.

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Heating and cooking stove "Swedish" with a stove bench

General characteristics and required materials

This subsection of the publication will present the order of laying a heating and cooking stove equipped with a stove bench. This model of the fundamental “Swedish” type was developed by engineer G. Reznik. The design of such a furnace can be called one of the most popular, since it is distinguished by a simple configuration of internal channels, relatively small dimensions and its high functionality. In addition, the “Swedish” stove, which has a compact size, has a higher efficiency compared to the Russian stove, which occupies a fairly large area of ​​the house.

Heating and cooking stove of the Swedish type, with a warm stove bench, designed by G. Reznik

The “Swede” of this design is convenient in all its parameters. So, if it is installed in a wall between two rooms, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom, then a large area of ​​the heated wall will warm the living space, and the warm one can well serve as a sleeping place. The kitchen will acquire a convenient hob and drying chambers suitable for various needs, for example, for storing dried vegetables, fruits, and medicinal herbs for the winter. Moreover, drying will take place under natural conditions, at temperatures optimal for this purpose.

The dimensions of the stove, considering its functional qualities, are quite compact and amount to 765 × 1145 mm (3 × 4.5 bricks) at the base. The dimensions of the bed are 635x1785 mm (2.5x7 bricks). Overall height the design excluding the mounted pipe is 1890 mm, so it is suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings. With these parameters, the heat transfer from the structure is 3500 W, and the stove is capable of heating rooms with a total area of ​​up to 35 square meters.

The design provides two operating modes - “winter”, when all sections of the stove are heated, and “summer”, which allows you to use only the hob and chamber.

The fuel chamber is lined with fireclay bricks, which increases the reliability and durability of the structure.

The following materials and metal parts are required for masonry:

Name of material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Quantity in pieces (kg)
Tempered Red Brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Fireclay fire-resistant brick	Ш-8	139 pcs.
Clay	fat	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
Hob	310 x 650	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415	1 PC.
Fire door	210 x 250	1 PC.
Cleaning door	70 x 130	5 pieces.
Blower door	140 x 250	1 PC.
Smoke damper	130 x 250	1 PC.
"Summer run" valve	130 x 250	1 PC.
Steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375	1 PC.
Pre-furnace sheet	500 x 700	1 PC.

In addition, you need to stock up on a sheet of asbestos and a cord made from the same material - to create thermal gaps between metal elements and brick. You will also need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm - for fastening cast iron and steel structural parts.

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The process of laying a Swedish stove with a stove bench

To begin with, here are a few illustrations that will help you better understand the intricacies of the stove design:

You can move on to practical masonry. The table similarly describes each laid out row, indicating its nuances:

Illustration with order diagram	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be laid out perfectly horizontally, maintaining straight outer and internal corners masonry
	Second row - 73 bricks. The row is also continuous, but smaller than the previous one in size by 50 mm on each side. In places where the blower and cleaning doors will be installed, cutouts are made along the edge of the brick, 20 mm deep, like a niche. They are needed for the convenience of subsequent installation of cast iron elements (shown by an arrow).
	Next, on the same row, cleaning doors 130x70 mm and ash doors 140x250 mm are installed. Instead of cleaning doors, some stove makers install halves of bricks, which are laid without mortar.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ fireclay bricks. This row is also smaller than the previous one along the perimeter, but this time when carrying out work, you need to focus on the dimensions indicated in the order. On this row, a horizontal channel of the stove itself and the stove bench, as well as a blower (ash) chamber, is formed. Another chamber is formed in the central part of the oven, which will not be used; it is needed to retain heat for a longer time. The brick on the left side of the blower chamber from above is cut obliquely (shown by an arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ fireclay bricks. The bricks installed on the left side of the blower chamber are cut diagonally (shown by the yellow arrow). The ash door is placed on top with two steel strips measuring 50x5x360 mm (shown by a green arrow).
	Fifth row - 30 red and 16½ fireclay bricks. Cutouts are made in the bricks above the ash chamber (shown by arrows) - a seat for a grate measuring 240x415 mm.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central chamber is laid across with four steel strips measuring 50x5x250 mm (shown by the yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this chamber can be filled with sand and stones, but it can also be left hollow. The grate is put in place cast iron grate(shown by green arrow).
	Sixth row. This row will require 32 ½ red and 18 fireclay bricks. The horizontal channel will become the base for the vertical chimney. The space under the bed is divided into 7 parts. The walls of the furnace fuel chamber are formed around the grate.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 fireclay bricks. The vertical chimney is reduced to 190x130 mm by laying it with bricks. At the same stage, the combustion chamber door 210×250 mm is installed (shown by the arrow).
	Eighth row. It is laid out in accordance with the pattern of 38 red and 12 fireclay bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ fireclay bricks. On this row, a channel is formed between the fuel chamber and the space under the stove bench, which connects to the chimney passages of the stove bench. The brick, which will be installed between the combustion chamber and the vertical chimney, is cut on both sides in the upper part at an angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, a passage begins to form between the firebox and the remaining chimney channels of the stove. Here you need to take into account that the upper part of the combustion door and the top of the brick cut from both sides must be at the same level. If the door was installed one row higher, combustion products would have the opportunity to freely exit into the room when the door of the heating stove was opened.
	The tenth row is laid out from 36 red and 8 fireclay bricks. At this stage of work, the combustion chamber is connected to a vertical channel. Red and fireclay bricks, located on both sides above the firebox door, are cut off at an angle from above (shown by a yellow arrow), since between them, according to the lock principle, a brick will be laid, cut from below on both sides, also at an angle. Next, the resulting horizontal channel is divided into two parts - the small right and large left. Some of the bricks forming the channel and located on its left side are cut off diagonally at the top (shown by the green arrow).
	On the same row, a red brick and ½ fireclay brick (shown by arrows) are cut into the remaining locking slot above the firebox door.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the space under the bed is blocked with bricks. Its size increases by moving the outermost bricks outward by 30 mm; its exact parameters are shown in the order diagram. The removal of the walls of the firebox continues, the bricks in it and the smoke exhaust ducts are cut diagonally - on the firebox from above, on the ducts below (shown by yellow and green arrows, respectively).
	The 12th row is laid out from 49½ red and 16 fireclay bricks. On this row, the bed is overlapped for the second time, also with an increase in its size - the outermost bricks move outward by 30 mm. Three vertical chimney channels are formed along the rear wall of the stove. The middle and left channels are connected from below by a common space, and the right one is combined with the output channel of the couch. The bricks forming the right and middle channels are cut diagonally from the bottom (shown by yellow arrows). A groove is cut out in the bricks framing the combustion chamber - a seat for mounting the hob (green arrows). Moreover, the dimensions of each side of the seat should be 5 mm larger than the plate itself.
	A hob 310×650 mm is mounted on the same row (shown by an arrow).
	The 13th row consists of 49 red and 7 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The bed is covered with a third layer of brick, and its dimensions return to their original size. To do this, the bricks of this row are shifted inward. In the diagram you can clearly see the emerging vertical channels - the main one located on the left side of the hob and three located along the rear wall.
	The 14th row is laid out from 16 red and 4 fireclay bricks. Only the stove is being built from this row, since the laying of the stove bench is already completely finished. IN back wall In the oven, two halves of brick are laid, which should protrude 25 mm beyond the masonry (shown by arrows). They are needed so that they can be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 fireclay bricks. When laying it out, the same brick halves are installed above the brick halves installed below (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the diagram, and consists of 15 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 17th row is also produced according to the presented scheme, from 14½ red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ fireclay bricks. A passage is made in the left wall of the cooking chamber (shown by an arrow), where the ventilation door of the cooking chamber will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Next, on the same row, a 70x130 mm door is installed in the left ventilation passage (shown by the yellow arrow). Then, a steel strip 50x5x735 (green arrow) is laid on the walls of the cooking chamber to cover it, and a corner 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow) is placed on their edge.
	The 19th row consists of 16 ½ red and 3 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the front part of the cooking chamber is covered with brick. The brick is laid on a steel strip and angle.
	Further, on the same row, the cooking chamber is completely covered with a sheet of roofing iron 360×375 mm (shown by a yellow arrow), on top of which five steel strips 50×5×360 mm (green arrows) are laid. The metal sheet gives the ceiling of the cooking chamber a cultivated appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 fireclay bricks. They completely cover the cooking chamber, and on the main chimney channel a seat is cut out of the bricks (shown by an arrow) for installing a “summer” valve.
	Next, on the same row, the 130x250 mm valve itself is installed on the seat (shown by the arrow).
	Row 21, its laying involves the use of 21 red and 5 fireclay bricks. A row is laid out according to the diagram. The bricks framing the left vertical channel from the side of the main smoke exhaust channel in the upper part are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). The brick laid between the middle and right vertical channels is cut diagonally on both sides (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this row, the left and main, as well as the middle and right channels are combined. The formation of two drying chambers is underway. In the rear wall of the large drying chamber and the rear wall of the combined main and left channels, half a brick is installed, which can be removed if necessary to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd row consists of 16½ red bricks. To cover the area of ​​the left vertical channel, three steel strips 50x5x360 mm are laid above it (shown by arrows).
	The 24th row is laid out from 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, the left vertical channel is blocked with bricks, leaving only a hole measuring 130x260 mm for the main chimney channel. The bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney channel are cut diagonally from below (shown by the yellow arrow). Two steel strips 50x5x360 mm (green arrows) are laid on the front part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, the right and middle vertical channels are overlapped, as well as the front part of the large and entire small chamber. The open space of the large drying chamber is then covered with two 50x5x360 mm steel strips (shown by arrows). The bricks in the masonry of the side and front sides of the stove are moved forward by 30 mm. The drawing shows the dimensions that should result from this offset.
	The 26th row is laid out from 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the stove is completely covered, except for the hole for the main smoke exhaust duct. This row continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it also has the front and parts of the side sides protruding outward by another 30 mm each. All dimensions of the protrusions are indicated on the order drawing.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to its original size, that is, the bricks are shifted from the edge, according to the dimensions indicated on the diagram.
	The 28th row is laid out from 5 red bricks, and is the base of the mounted pipe. Cutouts are made from the inner edges of the bricks (shown with a yellow arrow) for a seat for a 130x250 mm chimney damper. After this, the valve itself is installed (green arrow).
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second row of the mounted pipe. Next comes the further laying of the chimney.

If you listen to all the recommendations and carefully follow the ordering diagram, this stove, which has a fairly simple design of channels and sections, can be built even by a novice stove maker. The main thing in this work is to take your time and accurately carry out the configuration of each of the rows.

A person who is just planning to build his own home already at this stage thinks about the heating system in it. This is correct, because the development of the project largely depends on the chosen heating system. If there is a heating main in the immediate vicinity of the site where the house will be built, and the future owner has received permission to connect to the centralized network, then you can get by with building a fireplace yourself.

You can use it during the period when the heating season has not yet arrived. If it is not possible to connect to a centralized heating system, then a reasonable solution would be to build a stove in the house with your own hands.

Since ancient times in Russia The stoves are laid from bricks in residential buildings. The craftsmen who skillfully erected these buildings were considered revered people. Today, thanks to the stove, a comfortable atmosphere is provided in the house, and in addition, coziness in its interior. These advantages of a traditional stove largely push many people to install a stove in their own home.

What types of stoves are there for brick houses?

If we talk about the types of brick kilns for individual houses, then you can distinguish the following types:

Construction modern look the house must have certain qualities:

• warm;
• do not smoke;
• have a high level of fire safety;
• create a cozy atmosphere.

Nowadays, if there is a need to build a brick oven, you can do this work with your own hands without outside help. Instructions can help with this, in which photos of the stages of work show that this process is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to have free time and the desire to create this structure in your home.

In order for the wood-burning stove being constructed to turn out to be of sufficient quality, you need not only to prepare necessary tools, but also take into account a number of important nuances.

Tools

To carry out work The following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• lacing;
• solution container;
• shovel or hammer drill;
• knitted wire;
• roulette.

Features of laying a brick stove for a home with your own hands

Before starting work on laying a wood-burning brick stove, it is necessary to determine the place in which it will be located. Furnace specialists give the following recommendation: if this is your first time laying a wood-burning stove, you should not immediately proceed to its construction. First you need to practice - try to do it wood stove layout.

In the process of such work, the beginner will understand what masonry is, he will be able to take into account the mistakes made when creating the layout, and avoid them when laying a wood-burning brick stove. An important point when constructing stoves is the distance between the pipe and the roof slab. It must be at least 15 centimeters. If this requirement is met, you can mark the place where the foundation for the future wood-burning stove will be built.

Construction of a foundation for a future brick kiln made to size, slightly larger than the main furnace structure. When laying the foundation, do not forget about creating a waterproofing layer. There is one more rule that also needs to be recalled: when laying a stove, you need to constantly monitor the correctness of the actions.

The walls of the brick kiln must be made in a strictly vertical position. Particular attention should be paid to corners. The quality of all subsequent masonry largely depends on how correctly they are lined up.

Characteristics of the methods and order of laying the furnace

You should know that stove masonry can be of different types.

• undercut masonry;
• Also, when constructing stoves, masonry with empty bricks is often used. The difference between these two types is quite significant.

When used during work first masonry method, then the finished structure is not subject to plastering, since all the seams are filled with mortar. The wall laying is done with a whole brick or half of it.

Ordinary brick is not suitable for building a stove. To create it, you must use material that is specifically designed for these purposes. It is called red or full-bodied. Bricks that have been used for some purpose should not be used when laying the stove.

During the process of laying the furnace, the first row is created using only bricks. No solution is used. Then the bricks are leveled, the front wall is determined, and in addition to this, the location of all the doors of the structure is determined. When the estimate is made, perform laying bricks on mortar. Having finished with this, they move on to another equally important task - laying the corners.

Next, following the recommendations of experienced stove makers, it is necessary to lay out the entire stove circuit. Using plumb lines from the stove corners, the string must be pulled to ceiling surface. When working, these vertical lines will act as a guide for the novice master.

The location of the ash pan and the combustion chamber with the ash pan will largely depend on the model of the stove that the owner of the house decides to install. After the third row of masonry, it is necessary to install a blower door. A row after it there is an ash pan.

It is followed by a firebox. Burnt wire is used in masonry to secure doors. At the stage of laying the stove vault, the craftsman will have to cut the bricks. Here it is necessary to achieve high-quality joining of material. Laying the stove roof begins after the second row above the fire door.

To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Due to the fact that this brick and the one used for laying the furnace have different temperatures, care must be taken to ensure that there is no rigid connection between them.

When it comes to installing a chimney pipe, a special valve must be provided. It must be equipped with an adjustment system.

Technological procedure for laying a furnace

Creating a stove begins with laying out the first row without mortar, taking into account the seams and in full accordance with the order.

Next you need to determine position of bricks at corners. They must be laid on the solution, while their horizontal position is checked. To control, you must use a level. The settlement of bricks that protrude can be done using a mallet.

When the required horizontalness is achieved, it is necessary to lay out the first row using a solution. When laying it, you should not forget about the level used to check the correctness of installation.

Using a tape measure check the size of the oven in terms of its diagonal. Equal diagonal values ​​in a rectangle are prerequisite when laying the stove. If this is necessary, then the corner bricks must be knocked down to ensure the necessary equality. Now you can proceed to bricklaying the 1st row using mortar.

When the work on laying the first row is completed, we move on to the second. When laying it, we check the verticality of the corners. To do this, we use a level or plumb line. As in the case of the first row, we begin laying out the perimeter, and only then move on to the middle of the second row. When the second row is completed, it is necessary to hammer nails 80-100 mm long between the first and second rows into the seam of the corners.

Next, you need to lower the plumb line one by one at all corners and mark the points on the ceiling where the lowering was done. When this is done, it is necessary to hammer nails of the same length in these places, then secure the cord and tighten it.

To check the vertical position of the cords a plumb line is used. If there are deviations, bending the upper nails is used to eliminate them. This creates the outline of the future stove in space. All rows laid further must be controlled for verticality using a stretched cord. In this case, much less time will be spent on control.

In a similar way it is done laying subsequent rows. Each new row must be checked against the order. During the laying process, it is necessary to clean the internal and external surfaces of excess mortar. To remove it, you should use a trowel. Wiping the chimney walls with a wet rag must be done every five rows.

The thickness of the seams of the stove masonry should be as thin as possible. If the seams are thick, this leads to coloration of the solution, which results in weakening of the masonry.

There is one more rule that must be observed - the rule of tying bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with bricks from the next row.

In most cases, there is a vertical seam in the center of the next row of bricks. However, this is not achieved so successfully in all cases. Sometimes the overlap is not made in the center, but less than half the brick. In this case, it is desirable that this distance is not less than a quarter of the length of a brick.

If a brick cut from one side is used during masonry, then this side must be laid outside the chimney duct. This surface is weaker, so it quickly collapses under the influence of high temperature.

When laying out the combustion chamber of the furnace, fireclay brick is used as the main material. The main advantage of its use is its resistance to high temperatures. You should not bandage the joints of masonry made of fireclay bricks and ordinary bricks, since their coefficient of linear expansion is different. Fireclay brick used for laying out a whole row or for lining the firebox. There must be a distance of at least 5 millimeters between the lining and the brick.

Before installing the door in its place, you should check for a tight fit to the door frame. It would be useful to find out whether the door rotates freely on the hinges, whether there are distortions and whether the door closes well enough. It is also necessary to check the holes that are used to secure the doors. If during the check defects were identified, then before installation they must be eliminated or the door must be replaced completely.

The door is installed using binding wire. It is necessary to use material 50 cm long. The wire is inserted into the holes located on the door and then twisted. The place where the door will be installed must be treated with brickwork mortar. During the installation of the door, it is necessary to control the vertical and horizontal position of its position. After this, fixation is carried out with bricks. At the end of the work, the ends of the wire are laid into the masonry joints. Combustion chamber door installed in the same way. The main difference is that it is wrapped in asbestos.

Conclusion

If the house does not have the opportunity to connect to a central heating system, then creating a brick stove is the most correct solution. By building it, you can get a good source of heat, thanks to which a comfortable atmosphere will be provided in the premises of the house, while heating costs will be low. You can build a brick oven with your own hands without the need to contact specialists. Enough see instructions with photos How professional stove builders build such structures. Having a strong desire and free time to acquire a brick stove in your home, you can build this structure with high quality without spending a penny. Your home will always be warm, and the constructed structure will last a long time.

Do-it-yourself brick stoves for houses

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In a country house or dacha, a brick stove is still relevant, as it heats the room and serves as a cooking appliance. Using the instructions for ordering a heating and cooking stove, you can build a brick structure with your own hands, while significantly saving material resources.

When choosing which design to give preference to, you must take into account that there are the following types of stoves, depending on functionality:

• heating brick stove intended only for heating the room. The structure is small in size (tetanus - Dutch);
• Cooking types of brick stoves for the home are equipped with a cast iron stove, which is adapted for cooking and heating water. The stove is not suitable for heating a home (Swedish);
• combined, universal heating and cooking structures with a hob, capable of heating different areas of a country house. Modern ovens are equipped with an oven and a niche for drying fruit and vegetable products. Stoves and fireplaces are often combined.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick types of heating stoves differ in the thickness of the walls of the heating device:

• thin-walled (Dutch) - the wall is 1/4 of a brick (6.5 cm). The design quickly heats the room, but practically does not retain heat. It is beneficial as a stove for a summer house, where the owners do not live in winter, but come for a short period;
• thick-walled (Russian stove) - wall thickness - 12-25 cm (1/2 −1 brick). The unit takes a long time to heat, and the heat is maintained for longer than a day. The disadvantage of the building is that it requires a lot of firewood for the winter;
• combined structures, in which the firebox is laid out with thick walls, and the chimney is made of 1/4 brick.

Types of stoves

To heat the house and cook food, brick stoves are used, which differ in the form of construction:

• rectangular;
• corner;
• square;
• T - shaped types of stoves;
• round.

Various external finishes for heating devices are used in a private home:

• design “for jointing”;
• plastered;
• ceramic cladding;
• finishing with a metal case.

Heating stoves are installed with different directions of smoke flows:

• direct-flow and counter-flow;
• single-turn and multi-turn;
• with horizontal or vertical channels;
• ductless and with bottom heating.

Each owner must choose before construction which furnace device suits him best.

General design of the heating structure

To independently build a brick heating stove for your home, you need to carefully understand the structure of the stove and the principle of its operation:

• the heart of the device can be figuratively called the firebox, where coal or firewood is placed;
• after fuel combustion, heated air enters the internal channel wells, the walls of which heat up, releasing heat into the room;
• Below, under the combustion chamber, there is an ash pan, separated by a grate;
• the ash chamber serves not only to collect combustion products, but also regulates the air supply to the fuel (by opening and closing the door, you can increase or decrease the air supply);
• It is recommended to clean out the ash pan as it fills, so as not to create reverse thrust with smoke entering the living space;
• The size of the ash pan is selected depending on the type of fuel. If you plan to burn with wood, the height of the ash pan is 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber; for solid fuel, a third is enough;
• in the upper part of the firebox there is a hole through which smoke is directed to the chimney;
• hot air passes through the heating channels and then exits through the pipe;
• Soot is gradually deposited on the walls of the chimney, which should be cleaned regularly. Special doors lead to the cleaning chambers;
• The stove diagram determines how to insert the oven, lay the cast iron hob, and install the tank for heating water.

Each type of stove for a brick house has its own chimney design. They help you figure out how to properly lay heating stoves made of bricks, drawings of the heating and cooking stove arrangement, which indicate in detail the operating procedure.

Choosing a place in the house

To make the most of the quality indicators of the selected model, you need to know how to correctly position a brick stove for a home in the space of the room.

• It is recommended to place heating and cooking devices in the house, taking into account the following nuances:
• The best place to lay the stove is at the intersection of the internal partition walls. Wherein hob and the fuel door should be located in the kitchen area, and the heated wall should “look” into the room;
• using brick stove designs, you can install a building right in the middle large room. In this case, the room is divided into 2 parts, and especially beautiful designs serve as interior decoration;
• You cannot cover the walls with clothes or curtains, so as not to create a fire hazard;
• when the heating stove is located near an external wall, a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the street;
• if the brick structure weighs more than 250 kg, it is necessary to make a solid foundation for the construction of a brick oven, which will not come into contact with the foundation of the house;
• roof beams should not touch the chimney to avoid the risk of fire;
• A metal sheet is placed in front of the firebox, the edge of which is pressed against the brickwork of the stove.

To ensure smoke removal, the stove pipe must rise above the roof by at least 0.5 meters.

Required materials and tools

To install a wood-burning stove for your home, you should first prepare the necessary components:

• cast iron hob with burners;
• door for the combustion chamber;
• ash pan door;
• small doors for cleaning chimneys;
• grate;
• wire or steel tape to secure the doors;
• steel reinforcing strips;
• metal corner for edging the top of the device;
• valve for shutting off the summer smoke flow;
• metal sheet (pre-furnace) to ensure fire safety;
• oven, container for heating water.

Brick stoves for the home - their drawings with orders are designed for a certain amount of red and refractory bricks. In this case, the structure is first laid dry in order to correctly select the required material and understand the operating principle of the heating device.

• types of hammers: pickaxe, stove and rubber;
• wooden spatula for mixing the solution;
• levels: horizontal and vertical;
• trowel (trowel);
• pliers, rasp, chisel;
• containers for solution, water;
• sponge brush.

Which solution is better to use

The furnace laying scheme requires the use of various solutions during its construction:

• to build a solid foundation, a solution of high-quality cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 is used. The structure is strengthened by adding gravel and reinforcement;
• We lay the first (zero) row of the oven continuous with our own hands. The plane must be leveled horizontally and vertically. A cement-sand mortar is used;
• The main body of the device with heating wells is laid out on a clay-sand mortar. It is taken into account that before using the structure for its intended purpose, the masonry must dry for at least 2-3 days;
• to strengthen the combustion chamber, fireclay is added instead of ordinary sand using the clay:sand:water ratio (1:1:0.25);
• the pipe is decorated with cement or lime mortar to prevent the building from soaking during precipitation. It should be taken into account that the cement composition for laying furnaces is used within 1 hour. Subsequently, the mixture becomes unusable.

It is not recommended to prepare lime mortar yourself at home, so as not to harm your health. It is easier to use store-bought lime dough, which is used as a base when mixing the solution.

Main steps and important features

All the nuances of how to lay out a stove with your own hands are presented in the serial drawings of brick stoves for the home. You just need to use the presented material correctly.

Calculating the efficiency of the required device helps you choose the most suitable furnace drawings. At the same time, the standard for heat radiation per square meter of device area is considered to be 0.5 kW under normal conditions, and 0.76 kW in severe frosts. It is assumed that the house is well insulated from the outside.

To heat a living area of ​​100 square meters. meters, it is necessary to build a stove structure 2.5 m high, with a useful heating area of ​​17.5 sq. meters. In this case, in normal mode, 8.5 kW of heat is released, and during intensive use of the device - 13.3 kW. Heat dissipation cooking ovens slightly higher due to the metal stove and oven.

What types of stoves are there in size, power, appearance, is taken into account when choosing a suitable structure. All parts of the structure are interconnected, so when calculating how to install the firebox of a device with a stove, you must comply with the following requirements:

• installation of the firebox according to the drawing always corresponds to the standard size of the laid brick. Therefore, it is recommended to first fold the stove dry;
• For dacha needs, we lay out the device with thinner walls; for constant heating, it is better to install a thick-walled firebox or purchase a ready-made cast-iron structure.

Step-by-step laying diagram of the simplest design of a heating and cooking unit

If you have no experience as a stove maker, but have principles masonry a person is familiar with it, you can lay out with your own hands a simple device for cooking and heating the building. A Swedish-designed stove with a separate cooking structure is most suitable for beginners.

Getting started - laying out the zero and first rows of the furnace device in continuous masonry, with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. In this case, it is necessary to carefully align the horizontal and vertical planes with a building level, to ensure the accuracy of the angles on the entire surface of the base of the future heating structure.

Order according to the scheme:

• on the 3rd row, you need to lay out the blower chamber and begin installing the ash door (14x13 cm), securing it with steel wire or metal strips. 3/4 bricks should be installed on the sides of the device;
• on the left, the construction of a chimney channel with a size of 14 cm begins. A cleaning door is installed in the wall to select soot, which is best replaced with a half brick placed on the edge;
• on the 5th row, the ash door is covered with a brick, a 26x26 cm hole is formed for installing grates so that the ash from the burnt material pours into the prepared compartment;
• on the 6th row, the blower is reduced to 20 cm, which is slightly larger in width than the size of the grate. At the same time, it is necessary to narrow the smoke channel to 26x26 cm;
• in the 7th row, the bricks for the grate are slightly cut down to the size of the device so that the grate fits freely in the recess without being fixed with mortar;
• on the 8th row, the area of ​​the lower section of the firebox is formed (52×26 cm), a cast-iron firebox door is installed;
• 9, 10 rows are laid in accordance with the diagram, making sure to maintain the correct ligation of bricks, in which each masonry element rests on the 2 lower ones;
• on the 11th row the combustion door is completely secured. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the weak masonry mortar. The perimeter of the furnace device is strengthened with a metal corner (30×30 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm);
• the formation of the chimney shield continues until the 20th row, repeating even and odd rows without change;
• on the 21st row, two vertical chimney channels are combined into one, forming a horizontal overlap of rows 22-23;
• the hole in the third channel is lined with bricks, observing dressings, forming a pipe for removing smoke.

The finished oven must be dried for 10-15 days with the doors open. Then it is recommended to gradually heat the device - first with thin branches, wood chips, gradually switching to wood fuel.

What to consider when laying a heating unit

Mandatory fire safety standards:

• the foundation of the heating structure should not come into contact with the foundation of the residential building;
• the minimum distance between the heating structure and the wooden wall of the house is maintained - 26 cm;
• size metal sheet in front of the firebox - no less than 50×70 cm;
• elevation above the floor of the zero row - 14 cm or more;
• a gap of 35 cm (no less) is maintained from the top of the structure to the ceiling;
• the thickness of the chimney wall in the attic compartment is 12 centimeters or more;
• if the top attic space made of flammable material, it is necessary to fill the area with sand, 10-13 cm deep;
• the structure of the pipe above the roof is increased in width - at least 13 cm;
• if the pipe stands 3 meters or more from the ridge, its top is located 10° from the horizon line of the ridge;
• in cases where the distance is less than 3 meters, the pipe should rise 50 cm above the ridge.

How to fold a stove yourself

When laying it yourself, it is important to fully adhere to the chosen design order. In this case, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that each element rests on the 2 lower ones. You need to stock up first the right amount halves and quarters of bricks.

It is recommended that each row be laid dry first in order to remember the place of each brick in the masonry. The thickness of the seams is maintained within 3-5 cm. Excess mortar must be removed in a timely manner, without waiting for it to harden. Plastering the chimney is not allowed, as heat transfer will be disrupted.

If there is a gap between the door frame and the brickwork, it should be sealed with asbestos cord.

The structure of the heating and cooking unit must meet all the requirements of the drawing - only then will the hand-made product serve for a long time.