DIY surfboard - instructions for making your dreams come true. How to make a surfboard with your own hands for riding on the Sap River; do-it-yourself board; what to make from

In this article we will talk about all types of surfs and how to make them yourself. In addition, we will tell experimenters and extreme sports enthusiasts about creating a board equipped with its own engine.

Boards are different

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, and functionality:

Longboards. In appearance, they resemble a small boat and are the most stable, so they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
Minimalibu. They are even more suitable for developing surfer skills - on a voluminous and moderately long board it is easy to feel the wave.
Evolutiv. Suitable for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the entire range.
Shortboards. Short and narrow surf for real pros. It is distinguished by its technicality and maneuverability.

How to make it yourself

The most convenient ones to make yourself are fiberglass and epoxy surfboards.

To do this, you will need a polyurethane foam mold, polyurethane resin and fiberglass (first option) or EPS resin and a polystyrene foam blank (second option). In both cases, you will need a long wooden plank - the future stringer, thanks to which the surfboard gains rigidity.

We make them with our own hands like this:

Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer strip.
Give the board a shape - the shape you need, which will influence the “character” of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its type, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A DIY surfboard is made according to the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a plane.
Write the size on the already formed board and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
Mark the spots for the fins and paint your creation.
Place fiberglass over the design and begin the final stage - lamination. This is a uniform application of resin with a spatula over the entire surface of the board. After it dries, drill holes for the fins and fins.
Polish the surfboard with sandpaper, removing any remaining resin, cover it with a glossy resin coating and leave it to dry for a day.

All! DIY surfboard made.

Motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

graphite foam;
plywood (3-4 mm);
polyurethane foam with adhesive effect;
and, in fact, the engine.

Instructions for use:

The “fish” shape is most suitable for this design. Shape the foam into the outline of a “fish”.
Make a recess in it the size of a sealed box, where the engine and the PowerBank feeding it will be placed.
It should come from the box and the motor (from a drill, for example), to which it needs to be attached. You can also build a steering wheel.
We recommend using a pump motor of at least 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered by a PowerBank (you can use one or a pair of batteries).
The engine must be connected to the batteries through a waterproof switch.

Like this in a simple way making a surfboard with your own hands. We hope this article gives you some inspiration to create the surf of your dreams.

The DIY master has more than ten years of experience in making surfboards. In this instruction, he will guide us through all the steps and intricacies of making a board. Almost every step is supplemented with video instructions.

Tools and materials:
-Polystyrene XPS or EPS;
-Polyurethane glue;
-Epoxy resin type Resin Research;
-Additive to resin ADDITIVE F;
-Fiberglass fabric;
-Water-based paint;
-Auto polishing;
-Work stand;
-Ties;
-Clamps;
- Grinder;
-Scales;
-Foam cutter;
-Sandpaper with grit from 20 to 2000;
-Colored tape;
-Paint brush;
-Containers for mixing resin;
-Gloves;
-Respirator;
-Putty knife;
- Rags;
-Plywood;
-Band-saw;

Step one: choosing polystyrene foam
Surfboards can be made from two types of polystyrene foam. Let's look at the pros and cons of each.
EPS-pressless polystyrene foam.
+
White color, does not delaminate, easily accessible, large blocks.
—
If damaged, it absorbs water; small balls may separate during sanding; it must be dried after use.

XPS extruded polystyrene foam.
+
Does not absorb water, does not crumble when sanding, does not require drying, and is easily accessible.
—
May delaminate, have blue or pink color, is available only in sheets.
The master will make this board from XPS polystyrene foam.

Step two: gluing the sheets
The board requires material with a thickness of approx. 10 cm. Since there are no such sheets, the master glues two sheets of 5 cm each. First he cleans the surface sandpaper. He wipes it with a rag. Polyurethane glue is applied over the entire surface of one sheet. The surface of the second sheet is wetted with water (the glue begins upon contact with water). Glues two sheets together. He pulls the sheets together through the boards with ties and clamps. Bonding time is 24 hours.

Step Three: Stringer
A stringer is a thin strip of wood or other materials that is located along the longitudinal axis of the surf. The stringer strengthens the structure of the board, providing it with additional rigidity and flexibility.
The master makes a stringer from plywood. The template is made according to the instructions from the Clark Foam catalog.
Transfers the template to plywood and cuts it out band saw. Sand the ends with sandpaper.

Next you need to glue the stringer to the polystyrene foam. Cuts a block of polystyrene foam lengthwise into two equal parts. The master uses a board as a guide. Clean the sides with sandpaper. Apply a stringer to each side and outline with a marker. A stringer is glued between the two blanks using polyurethane glue. Clamps with zip ties. Leaves for 24 hours.

Video in the next step.
Step Four: Trimming
After gluing, stringer template boards are secured to the sides of the board with tape. The templates serve as guides when cutting off excess layers of polystyrene foam. Pruning is done with a homemade foam cutter.

Video for step no. 3, 4.

Step Five: Trimming the Edges
Outlines the outline of an old surfboard (or makes a template from paper, a template can be found on the Internet). Cuts both sides. Sands one side. Then he makes a template and transfers it in a mirror to the other side. Processes the second side according to the template. The two sides turned out to be symmetrical.

Step Six: Sanding
Sands the board using various tools and devices from a sander to sandpaper. It is necessary to achieve an almost symmetrical shape of both halves of the board.

Video of step No. 5, 6.

Step seven: rails
Rails are the edges of the board from nose to tail (tail). The master rounds off the rails. To do this, apply markings to the surface of the board (deck) and rails. Then he cuts off the excess material. If the material is damaged, putty it. If a large piece is damaged, glue polystyrene foam.

Finishing the surfboard in part two.

usamodelkina.ru

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, and functionality:

Longboards. In appearance, they resemble a small boat and are the most stable, so they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
Minimalibu. They are even more suitable for developing surfer skills - on a voluminous and moderately long board it is easy to feel the wave.
Evolutiv. Suitable for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the entire range.
Shortboards. Short and narrow surf for real pros. It is distinguished by its technicality and maneuverability.

How to make a surfboard with your own hands

The most convenient ones to make yourself are fiberglass and epoxy surfboards.

We make them with our own hands like this:

Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer strip.
Give the board a shape - the shape you need, which will influence the “character” of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its type, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A DIY surfboard is made according to the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a plane.
Write the size on the already formed board and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
Mark the spots for the fins and paint your creation.
Place fiberglass over the design and begin the final stage - lamination. This is a uniform application of resin with a spatula over the entire surface of the board. After it dries, drill holes for the fins and fins.
Polish the surfboard with sandpaper, removing any remaining resin, cover it with a glossy resin coating and leave it to dry for a day.

All! DIY surfboard made.

Motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

graphite foam;
plywood (3-4 mm);
polyurethane foam with adhesive effect;
and, in fact, the engine.

Instructions for use:

The “fish” shape is most suitable for this design. Shape the foam into the outline of a “fish”.
Make a recess in it the size of a sealed box, where the engine and the PowerBank feeding it will be placed.
From the box and the motor there should be a flexible shaft (from a drill, for example), to which a propeller should be attached. You can also build a steering wheel.
We recommend using a pump motor of at least 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered by a PowerBank (you can use one or a pair of batteries).
The engine must be connected to the batteries through a waterproof switch.

This is a simple way to make a surfboard with your own hands. We hope this article gives you some inspiration to create the surf of your dreams.

fb.ru

Further…
Pasting the body itself!
Before gluing, it is necessary to sand the seam so that the resin adheres well to it. Remove all irregularities. You can putty the necessary areas for the perfect shape.
I did this with the same resin but with the addition of aerosil to the desired consistency. (Aerosil is a white powder, silicon dioxide, used specifically to give the resin viscosity)
I’ll say right away: covering with resin and fabric as in the video from YouTube - several layers of fabric at once and one bucket of resin - in 5 minutes is NOT NECESSARY! We are not pros)) We do everything calmly and little by little. Mix in small portions and first pour over the workpiece, leveling it with a spatula so that the resin fills the micro pores of the foam and then there are no bubbles. Then we put 1 layer of fabric and smooth it onto the workpiece with a spatula, stretching the fabric so that there are no wrinkles or folds. (During the last gluing, I simply put a roll of fabric on the board and unwound it by rolling it over the board, cutting off the length as it was, after which I just had to smooth it out a little along the edges on the bends. This method, in my opinion, is the most convenient and leads to the least number of wrinkles and folds !) Now we water the fabric from above and again work with a spatula, distributing the resin evenly and smoothing the fabric on the curves (it sticks without any problems, taking the required form!) Remove excess resin with a spatula; there should not be any slurry!
As soon as you have finished with the first layer, IMMEDIATELY put the second one on top according to the same principle - level it, then spread the resin with a spatula... repeat with the third layer.
After spreading the resin with a spatula, leave it to dry for 12-24 hours. The texture of the fabric itself will appear slightly on the finished surface.
o, in principle, it’s not critical (inflatable saddles also have a texture) If you wish, you can putty on the car until it’s perfect smooth surface.
*** IMPORTANT! When we already put last layer fabric - we need to realistically evaluate the required amount of resin that we will pour over the last layer. THERE SHOULD NOT BE LIQUID! those. If you put the last layer and it is almost completely saturated from the lower ones, there is no need to pour another bucket of resin on top! Pour a little at a time and level it out, removing all excess so that the texture of the fabric appears. By pressing down well with a spatula, we remove all excess. Otherwise, when drying, excess resin will form into clumps and remain as lumps on the surface. It’s almost impossible to sand this thing smooth afterwards!!! Just putty on top. If you remove all excess, the surface will remain smooth, slightly textured. At the same time, the strength of the structure will be even higher!!!

We are doing this all on one side only!
The output is something like this))

vk.com

Alexander Orlov decided to build his own SUP. After the first unsuccessful experience, he decides to start all over again, but approaching the process more thoroughly. Here's what the designer himself says:

“I sketched a sketch of the future board, taking as a basis those boards that Evgeny Rezontov advised me. Dimensions 3.4m by 0.75m. Thickness 0.11m. The shape is streamlined, symmetrical, flat. However, I noticed that many boards seem to have their aft edge cut off... Why is this done?

As for the design: it will be glued together from several layers. The top and bottom layers are 30mm polystyrene foam. Between them there is a continuous layer of 50mm polystyrene foam, the cavities in which are filled with ordinary ball foam. This is done to lighten the board, because... foam weighs 2 times less than polystyrene foam. Another option is not to fill these voids with anything at all.

Well, I plan to make the longitudinal stiffener from laminated 4mm fiberboard. All this is covered with two layers of fiberglass. The estimated weight of the board is up to 10 kg. Volume 230 liters.

My goal is some water time, plus maybe some shoulder training equipment. We are not talking about extreme skiing, catching waves, etc. Moreover, I live in central Russia on the Volga River. Therefore, I expect from the board, first of all, comfort, stability and good speed. Why did you choose this form? It’s just that it’s the easiest to make, and I don’t know what pros or cons other forms provide.

Why do I propose to use polystyrene foam? Yes, it is more expensive than foam and heavier. However, it is much stiffer and stronger. The first board, which I made too small, I managed to roll up in one layer of fiberglass and it was already rigid enough for me to jump on it. PSBS boards are much softer and are rolled into large quantity layers of fiberglass, and the top surface is additionally veneered. All this is very labor-intensive, especially at home.”

After listening to comments and advice from other interested people, Alexander revised his drawings and slightly modified his sub, which would make it more maneuverable and improve performance on the water.

We are waiting for the continuation of this process and photographs of the finished board and its happy owner.

supsurf.ru

Regarding the fins, it’s still too much, but it’s individual.
My 5.20 kayak turns easier than the SUP, although that was my first impression. And, in fact, the first way out. I recently got on smooth water, I prefer mountains, a stormy stream, high speed.
But my soul constantly asked for water, and the Caucasus and the Carpathians are available to me once a year, no more. So I switched to smooth water, and now I’m hooked

As for my SUP, I oriented it towards hikes of 3 - 4 days to begin with, with full autonomy, i.e. the whole bivouac is on the board, food, water too.
In principle, in the spring, as I polish, I plan to do 140 km along the Desna, go out for 3 days, maybe in May, I want to pull people up, ask for a canoe, which I made to order, I have 3 kayaks now and go for a walk.

As for operation, yes, there are limitations, but not as big as it might seem initially.
With my kayak, after the first year of operation, both in good wind and waves, and, accordingly, a jib in one place, and among the ice (I had to break the ice in December before last to get through the river), at most a couple of scratches on the varnish.

When I was at the Red Bull Marathon, I had to get off mid-distance, my legs cramped and I completely lost control, while starting I took in more water. In general, I found a place to drag the kayak up the slope, then until I got to the people with the kayak where there was still water splashing that I couldn’t pour out, who were able to explain “where I am” to the driver... Why am I doing all this? Besides, I dragged the kayak behind me for 500 - 700 meters, along the ground, roots, sand. branches. Not a single mark on the varnish! But the varnish is not very cheap
The second kayak capsized on Mezhtgorye and the man, with a good wave, simply dragged it onto the concrete pier, tried to get into it 2 times and capsized and everything repeated. There YES! 2 layers of fiberglass were pierced, and not all the way to the wood. It was possible to continue.

I do the same thing on SUP, it’s hard to kill.
He is not afraid of the sun, and in winter he can lie in the snow in any frost.

As for sharp stones, I don’t take small pebbles from the sea, they don’t leave marks, just like shells, then yes, stones are deplorable for him.
If you run it over asphalt, the coating will also be 100% damaged, and this is not fatal, it is a loss of aesthetics. no more.
But everything else does virtually no harm. Including falls from a meter height.

In any case, the kayak had nothing, and I mocked them to the fullest.
As for repairs, everything is much simpler, including the possibility of carrying out repairs while traveling.

Regarding foam mats, in my case this is not an option, or I have not yet seen mats made of transparent foam. I don't want to close the drawing.

One more thing, for me a tree is a soul, its own character, exclusiveness.
As for serial production, then this is a serial.
But this is my personal opinion, on which I do not insist

supforum.com.ua

How to windsurf.

Making a windsurfing board with your own hands is a labor-intensive task. You need to approach it seriously. There is a lot of debate on the topic of buying a board or making it yourself. If you still decide to make windsurfing with your own hands, then read on. (there is a test video)

Moreover, this technology is useful for the manufacture of car tuning, as well as for the manufacture of any fiberglass products.

Most often, it is much easier to buy a ready-made used board. If you are interested in trying a board of a non-standard design, then the decision is justified. It probably also makes sense to start making a large educational board, from which you will quickly outgrow, but your friends will be able to study on it.

I will try to describe the most important points self-made windsurfing boards.

1. Project. The easiest way, of course, is to take the dimensions from the finished board and write them down in a table. Or design it in the 3d-shape program.

2. To make the base of the board, we will use foam plastic of minimum density, for example 15 kg/cub.m. Since it comes in sheets, you will have to glue the sheets together. It is best to glue with construction foam. We use toothpicks as guides.

After marking, glue the pie, again using construction foam and toothpicks or bamboo rods as guides.

So we glue the entire base of the board one by one. Since foam tends to expand, it needs to be applied a little and the glued parts must be well loaded.

As a result, we get the base of the board. A layered structure of longitudinally glued elements will give us longitudinal strength.

After the foam has completely dried, i.e. no less than a day later, we begin to form a board from the resulting blank using a jigsaw and a stationery knife.

It would be nice to have external frame templates (cross sections) to accurately cut the core of the foam board. Use coarse sandpaper to smooth the surface - the core of the board is almost ready.

All that remains is to cut out the steps in the rear part of the board; they reduce the sliding area of the board in planing mode. Redan might look like this.

Or so. There are many more options. You can edit and not do it.

The core of the board is almost ready. View from below.

In industrial conditions, the core is made from a single block of extruded low-density polystyrene foam using a copier machine. You have to tinker with it manually. The quality of its manufacture determines how the finished product will look.

3. When the foam core is ready, it must be covered with calico or any other cotton fabric using PVA glue. This will achieve several goals:

- level the surface

— epoxy resin has the property of dissolving polystyrene foam and such gluing will serve as a barrier between the core and the outer pillars of fiberglass.

4. The next and very important stage is the manufacture of the fin well and master track, as well as the inserts for the leg loops.

This process is worthy of a whole separate article, so I will outline it very briefly. Basically everything is clear from the photographs.

The fin well is made in a mold that is cut out of several sheets of thick plywood.

We use a ready-made fin as an internal filler, which before laying is carefully coated in several layers with a separator and polished. As a separator, you can use colorless wax-based shoe polish. To avoid mistakes, do a test - apply some cream to some surface and let it dry. And then drip epoxy resin. When it hardens, it should easily separate from the surface. The finished fin well looks like this.

We make the shoulder straps for the mast from aluminum corners, which we screw into the plywood base.

The finished mastertrack looks like this

The leg loop inserts can be made from any plastic, such as polystyrene. You can take blocks of dense wood and glue them into bushings made of aluminum, brass, or, best of all, stainless steel.

A simpler option is to glue cubes from many sheets of polystyrene. We fasten the hinges into such cubes with screws.

After this, at a previously marked distance from the stern, we insert a master track (usually its center is 145 cm from the stern) and a fin well (the center is approximately 20 cm from the stern).

Before gluing both halves together, several layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin must be placed in the place of the gluing. This way we will form a stringer - the main longitudinal stiffening rib of the board.

We tighten the parts to be glued, for example, with elastic bands from an expander. In general, it’s a good idea to stock up on some of these elastic bands with hooks. Then they will be useful for securing the board to the roof of a car when transporting short distances.

6. The base of the board is ready. Just remember to glue the inserts under the hinges and start laminating, i.e. covering the board with fiberglass and impregnating this fiberglass with epoxy.

But there is one more intermediate stage, which is not necessary, but very desirable - covering the board with a layer of wood veneer. It will give the board additional strength and help reduce the number of layers of fiberglass and epoxy, which means reducing the weight of the board.

7. Lamination - covering the board with layers of fiberglass and epoxy. This is also a vast topic worthy of an entire article, but I will try to write only the key points. Important - determine the places of possible mast burns and foot trampling and cover the board in these places with additional layers of fiberglass in epoxy resin. Only after this proceed to lamination. For lamination, you will need fiberglass with a density of 200-250 grams/square meter. I think 2 layers will be enough. We had fabric with a density of approximately 350 g/sq.m. and very thin, then one layer was laid first and another layer of thin. In places of additional reinforcement, two layers of 350 fabric are laid.

Fiberglass is placed on the board and then, with an assistant, a layer of epoxy resin is applied on top, carefully smoothing it and removing excess. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles. After that, we put it in a plastic bag and pump out the air from it. You can use a compressor from an old refrigerator as a vacuum pump.

Vacuuming allows you to remove air bubbles from under the fiberglass. Try to ensure that the plastic bag fits nicely around the board. Otherwise, unsightly grooves will remain in the folds, which are then difficult to remove.

We laminate one side first, then flip it over and laminate the other.

Is it necessary to vacuum when laminating? Not at all necessary. If you are very careful to remove any air bubbles, you can simply leave the board to let the resin settle. Lamination can only be done at air temperatures below 24 degrees. Otherwise, the resin will be thick and will not saturate the fiberglass well, and then it will take a very long time to harden. We can prepare it - for 100 parts of resin by volume, add 5 parts of plasticizer and 10 parts of hardener. Under no circumstances should you take the board out into the sun - it will immediately become covered with a mass of air bubbles.

8. The next stage is to glue the mats and paint the board. I made the rugs from sheet rubber purchased at the shoe market. I bought the glue there. To reduce weight, it is good to punch holes in the mats.

9. Painting is not difficult. But there are some important nuances. I painted the board with automotive enamel. And when I wanted to decorate it with spray paint, it wrinkled. It turned out that the car enamel was alkyd based. Then the non-slip coating had to be made with alkyd-based yacht varnish. If you decide to paint acrylic paint, for example, from spray cans, then make a non-slip surface with automotive acrylic varnish.

Making a non-slipper comes down to sprinkling with fine “extra” salt after applying the varnish. In practice, the surface turned out to be rough enough for skiing in wet shoes, but still slippery for skiing barefoot.

In front of the mastrek, a plug made of an aluminum rectangle is glued into the board.

Tests on water.

The board was based on the Starboard Hypersonic industrial board, but the shape was slightly modified. The result was:

Tests on the Dnieper, the Sea of Azov and the Black Sea showed that the board behaves quite well. It rides smoothly on the wave and is very pleasant to ride. Very stable. It's easy to get on the glider.

The fin was homemade, but in the end we bought a grass 32 cm powerbox from Boa. With it, the board sails well under sails of 4.5 and 6m. No spinouts were observed. It moves through the grass “like a tank”, only slowing down a little.

I can say the following about the shortcomings - the board turned out to be somewhat heavy. This is not very noticeable on the water, but loaded onto a roof rack it feels good. During intense skiing during the season, I was hit in the bow by the mast several times. There was a leak where the chips were. She was eliminated. There were defects on the lower edges and they were also leaking. Eliminated - filled with resin. The glued-in plug was very useful for detecting leaks and removing water.

Since this particular board was experimental - an attempt to repeat with modifications a somewhat unusual model with a non-flat bottom, and at the same time some shortcomings of the shape emerged, the exact dimensions are not specifically given. If you want to make a good board, then it is better to rent a model you like, for example, a “Taboo Rocket” and take measurements from it. In general, as practice has shown, it is worth making either a large board for training or a board with an experimental and unusual shape.

Watch video of water tests here.

If the article was interesting, leave a review.

5 NEW COOLEST WATER ACTIVITIES!! SURF BOARD WITH WATER JET

3 months ago

★Car Millionaire★ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCY—X0FBPWEw_XeDC4zYlOQ?sub_confirmation=1 TOP 5 NEW COOLEST WATER ENTERTAINMENTS!! SURFING BOARD WITH WATER JET. Hello everyone, you are on the Tip Top channel and today we have new water activities that everyone can try and which do not require any special skills and abilities. One of these new cool water activities is Joy diving. Joy diving can be compared to regular diving, but instead of a heavy tank on the back, those diving are given an underwater scooter; anyone can handle this scooter. Operating this underwater vehicle is very simple and does not require any special skills. Another cool water activity is called jet boating. These are custom-made boats with increased durability, excellent maneuverability and equipped with water jets. Water cannons, due to their specific nature, are more often used where using a propeller is dangerous or impossible. In such situations, for example, when operating a boat in mountain stormy rivers with shallows and rocky bottoms. Another new water entertainment is the SubWing hydrofoil, which allows you to maneuver underwater by changing the angles of the blades, looking at the depths of the sea. Next, the hydrofoil hydrofoil hydrofoil for kitesurfing the design resembles a regular surfboard, the main differences are hidden under the water, namely the wing which, when moving, creates a hydrodynamic lift force lifting the board above the water, from the outside it seems that the surfer is simply floating above the waves in the air.. jet surf is another water activity that appeared not so long ago. Jet surfing was invented in 2008 by the Czech Martin Sula, who introduced a water jet into a surfboard, and now you can cut through the water even without waves. A motorized surfboard is a new water activity that has captivated all surfing enthusiasts. Thank you all for your attention) See also: ———————————————————————————————- 6 of the most evil small breeds of dogs:// /www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eH6fs-948o TOP 11 BEST RODSTER CARS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjoU4hL7ftI 3 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO CHANGED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes Record Holders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV1Y1CkTJSk 5 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO CHANGED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes (Part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlR5vHOI21E POLICE CARS IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES OF THE WORLD!! Why Criminals Can't ESCAPE THE CHASE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73NwjxwRyhw TOP 9 BEST SUVS OF ALL TIME!! THE MOST PASSABLE CARS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-LyDxCpE_4 12 CAR COMPANY LOGOS WITH HIDDEN MEANING (part 1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE68R3L-0i8 7 MOST RELIABLE MILLIONAIRE ENGINES!! Resource MASSIVE MOTORS (part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dyjhcdJS04 8 LEGENDARY JAPANESE CARS FROM THE 90S THAT DO NOT BREAK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2993GnSzLm4 10 LEGENDARY MILLIONAIRE ENGINES!! The Most Reliable MASSIVE MOTORS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69DCimvUQAo 15 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO CHANGED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes Record Holders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUnsnR27n7w Production Music courtesy of Epidemic Sound! #Top #Top5 #Top5 #TipTop #TipTop #5NEW #COOLEST #WATER #ENTERTAINMENT #surfing #subwing #kitesurfing #hydrofoils #surfing

My friends started this hobby a few years ago with rope and old door from the wardrobe. They've come a long way since then. At first there was only a rope attached to the bridge and a handle on the board.

This allowed for nothing more than to stand on a board that scours from side to side along the river.

The next step was to use two ropes - one for the board and one to hold on to, which allowed for turns.

But it was dangerous, the rope could get tangled around your feet and if you fell into the water, it would be better if someone ended up with a knife on the bridge.

Once I almost drowned, I realized that something needed to change, and I decided that a leash attached to my ankle was the best option. Because when you fall into the water, you simply let go of the handle and swim to the shore.

This is my third DIY surfboard, the first one was too small, the second one worked great, but didn’t last long without reinforcing fibers.

This is the pinnacle of DIY surfboard technology, and you'll see it for yourself!

Step 1: What you need

Related materials:

3 sheets 175cm x 70cm, 3mm plywood, in my case poplar
6 pads 180cm for longitudinal clamping
more padding or something similar to perpendicular clamps
about 1.5 kg epoxy resin (you probably don't need all of this, but in case of waste, spills, etc., it's better to have more)
woven fiberglass - about 5m2 (one sheet at the top, one or two at the bottom, and many around the edges)
small piece plastic pipe 8 mm in diameter (to reinforce the hole for the leader)
sugar
paint (optional)

Tools:

Workbench (at least 60cm x 170cm, this is the same as mine)
clamps, lots of clamps
jigsaw
clamps
simple grinding equipment
more clamps
Tools for mixing and applying resin
drill (8 mm)
Did I mention to make sure you have enough clamps?

For the practical part of surfing:

Surfing leash
water tow rope (I've made these myself before, but the ones you can buy are nicer to hold)
river with bridge

Step 2: Laminating the Surfboard into a Curved Shape

On the outer end edges of the workbench, we place risers, pieces of wood about 7-8 cm in height, which will give us a deflection of the plywood sheet when clamped with clamps (the height of the sheet rises from the middle) of about 5 cm when the resin dries.

In addition to them, we place slats to support the edges and the middle (it wouldn’t hurt to add more, but it will be more difficult to push through)

Now we mix the resin, apply it to all the inner surfaces of the sheets and begin to clamp.

Add clamps and extra weight wherever you can, especially around the edges where we will later cut out the shape of the surfboard.

Step 3: Shaping your own surfboard

After waiting for the resin to polymerize, you can begin marking the mold.

A string tied to a pencil will allow you to outline acceptable radii.

I used photos of wakeskates and wakeboards as a reference, but in the end the exact shape doesn't really matter of great importance. One time we used the cabinet doors for surfing, wow!

Cut out the shape with a jigsaw set angle 45° and sand until smooth.

Step 4: Add Strength to the Board with Fiberglass

I built a jig to hold the board, but you can do without one (just place suitable scraps of wood under the board).

Now apply a layer of resin to the board, apply a layer of fiberglass and start smoothing it with a brush soaked in resin. Try to completely saturate the fabric with resin and roll it tightly to the surface of the board. Then cuts are made at the corners and the edges are turned in. Repeat the same on the other side.

Now add strips of fiberglass around the edges. The bigger, the better.

Always use protective equipment when working with epoxy compounds and fiberglass!

Step 5: Finishing Touches

Time to get creative!

You'll probably want to give your DIY surfboard a coat of paint with one or two coats of epoxy.

Now is also the time to drill a hole at one end of the board to attach the leash. I glued a small piece of plastic pipe into the hole for strength.

When applying the final coat of epoxy to the top of the board, be sure to spread a layer of sugar over the entire surface while it is still sticky. This will give good grip between your feet and board in the water.

Step 6: It's time to surf!

So this is best board DIY surfboard is lightweight (for its size) and still stiff, but there's still plenty of room for improvement.

Enjoy!

Another tip: Dress up in swim trunks before you try surfing :)

Based on materials from www.instructables.com

Surfboard is an oblong platform used for a sport called surfing(sliding on a wave). Surfboards are relatively lightweight but strong enough to support a person while riding a wave. Surfboards were invented in Hawaii many years ago. Wave riding was then known as " papa he'e nalu" in Hawaiian. Surfs were then made from local wood species, for example, Koa. At the time, they were over 15 feet (4.5 meters) long, and since they were made of solid wood, they were super heavy. Also, at that time, the boards did not have fins, which help the board maintain directional stability. The surfboard was just going straight at that time.

Modern surfboards are made of polyurethane or expanded polystyrene, covered with layers of fiberglass fabric and polyester or epoxy resin. The result is a lightweight, durable surfboard that is buoyant and maneuverable. The latest developments in surfboard technology include the use of carbon fiber, but these boards are very flimsy and virtually impossible to repair. About 400 thousand surfboards are produced every year. Recently, some of them even include GPS navigators and other “necessary” mobile technologies.

Surfboard Parts:

Surfboard design. All about surfboards

Slipper (bottom of the board)

The surface of the board that lies on the water is usually concave, but sometimes convex.

Concave

Modern surfboards usually have a curved outline on the bottom of the board (slider) called concave. Concaves have various shapes and are used depending on the types of surfboards. The concave is needed to direct water through the fins of the surfboard. Surfboard shapers sometimes experiment with deepening the concave to create a different board "glide" and "give." Basically, modern boards use a concave concave. Older boards used a convex concave.

Bottom of a surfboard. All about surfboards

Deck (Top or Deck)

The deck is the surface of the board on which the surfer stands. That part of the board by which you can understand how “worn out” the board is. If there are a lot of dents on it, then the board is pretty beat up. Although if there are no dents, this does not mean that the board is new 😉 Usually the deck is coated with special wax (surfwax) so that the feet do not slip. Wax comes in different degrees of hardness, allowing it to be used in different temperature conditions.

Fins

For a surfboard, the fin is a directional stabilizer and is attached to the back of the board to prevent uncontrolled sliding. Example: a board without fins will handle almost like a car on summer tires in icy conditions. Many years ago, surfers stabilized their boards by sliding their back foot onto the edge of the board—like pushing down the edge. American surfer Tom Blake was the first to experiment with adding fins to surfboards, taking the keel from an old boat and attaching it to the board in 1935. This innovation revolutionized surfing, allowing surfers to control their boards much better, providing greater balance and the ability to make turns on the board. A system with one central fin on the board is called "Single Fin"

Single fin "Single Fin" All about surfboards

The type of modern surf fin was developed by George Greenogue in the 1960s. At this time we used one fin on the board. By the end of the 70s they began to use two. In October 1980, Simon Anderson came up with a version with three identical fins, which was then called " thruster"(propeller). He created this prototype and 30 years later his fin system is still the most popular. I will tell you about the history of the development of fins in a separate article. Here are the main three types:

Thrusters (Three fins)

Three fin "Thruster" system. All about surfboards

The three-fin design is the sum of longboard glide and shortboard performance all rolled into one. In the Thruster system, a single central fin is framed by two separate symmetrical fins. The camber of the slope of the front and top directs the energy from the incident wave to accelerate the board. The system is similar to the geometry of rocket nozzles and works the same way. The fastest fins in my opinion.

Quad (Four fins)

Quad fin system. All about surfboards

The four fins are arranged in two pairs on the edges of the tail, they quickly accelerate the board downwards, but tend to lose their energy through the turns of the board. Energy is also lost when the board goes up a wave because the fins lose vectoring energy from the advancing water towards the back of the fin. A more stable system adds control over the board. For example, I put 4 fins on my standard board when I go for bigger waves.

Nubster

Nubster fin system. All about surfboards

This fin was created by professional surfer Sean Mattison as a tail stabilizer fin. Similar to a guitar pick. It is placed as the fifth fin. It is believed that such a fin helped Kelly Slater win competitions in New York and Portugal in 2011.

Lish

The surfboard is attached to the surfer's leg using a leash (leash, special rope). This prevents your board from getting carried away by the waves or hitting another surfer or someone in the water. Modern leashes are made from urethane. One end of the leash has a strip of Velcro and is attached to the surfer's leg, while the opposite end has a strap attached to the tail of the surfboard.

Lish first appeared in 1971. Before this, surfers who lost their boards swam after them. This posed a danger to other surfers and swimmers. The invention of leech is credited to Pat O'Neill. Its original design consisted of a surgical cord attached to a board with a suction cup. In Malibu, at an international surfing competition in 1971, Pat suggested using a leash and entered the race with him. He was disqualified and ridiculed, calling him " Kook"(in surfing slang, a kook is a horse who does something clumsily, for example, waxes the slip of a surfboard). However, over the next year, the leash became ubiquitous in the surfing world.

A typical example of a person who might be called "Kook" :)

Jack O'Neal lost his left eye in the surf because the early models of the leash were too elastic and forced the board back at the surfer. Subsequent models were made from less elastic materials such as bungees.

Ultimately, urethane became the primary material for making leashes. The design of such a leash was patented by David Hettricke. The use of leash is still the source of some controversy in surfing today. Although, at present, they are accepted as mandatory equipment for those who ride a shortboard. Many longboarders refuse to wear a leash, claiming that it prevents them from walking up and down the board and doing certain maneuvers. Lishes are available in different variations: thick and thin, long and short. I trust these companies: Creatures, FCS, Rip Curl.

"Cup" for lichen

Also known as a "leash mortise", it is a recess in the deck of the board close to the tail which contains a small metal rod into which a short cord can be hooked to secure the leash.

Nose boards

Front tip of the board. It can be pointed or rounded and can be steep or flat (also called a rocker angle). A very delicate part of the board. You always have to be careful with her. There are models with the nose of the board cut off. More will be written about the rocker later.

Tail

The shape of the tail affects how the board reacts to the surfer's movements and rides the wave. The tail shape varies in the following basic variations: square, pointed, dovetail, diamond shape and so on. Each of these in turn has its own family of smaller variants.

Foot mat (pad)

There are several names for this device, which is glued to the top of a surfboard to increase grip and allow surfers to have more control and perform more complex maneuvers. Pads are used on almost all models of boards and are usually glued in the tail area under the back foot, and sometimes in the center of the board under the front foot.

Rails.

These are the edges of the board. A rounded rail is called "soft", while a straighter rail is called "hard". Larger, thicker rails contain more foam volume, allowing for more buoyancy along the edge of the board, while sharper, narrower rails have less volume, allowing the board to "sink" more easily while still pushing on them to turn. When riding a wave, one rail is always in the water, while the other hangs freely in the air. A turn on the board occurs when moving from one rail through the tail to another rail.

Rocker

This is the angle of the vertical curve between the nose and tail of the board. The rocker can be either steep (highly curved, like a bow) or soft (less curved, almost straight). It can be continuous (one curve between the tip of the nose and the tip of the tail) or stepped (a flat area in the middle of the board). Board nose rocker- This is the curve between the nose and the middle part of the board. A rear rocker board- this is the curve that is between the tail and the flat part (middle) of the surf. Increasing nose rocker helps her burrow less; Also, larger boards require a larger front rocker angle. The higher rear rocker angle adds agility and keeps the tail responsive in tight turns. Flatter rockers help on flatter sections of the wave, while steep rockers increase the board's resistance to water when sliding, and also have a smaller turning radius when reaching planing speed!

The board rails and deck can also be with rocker. If the board has a flat deck (top), then this increases its flexibility (these boards are also lighter), while a board with a convex deck is stiffer in the water. This is called the "responsiveness" of the board: thinner boards are more responsive. But they also suffer more from blows.

Stringer

In board construction, a stringer is the core that runs down the middle of the deck from the bow to the fins. Usually made of wood, sometimes carbon fiber. The stringer serves to increase the strength of the surf, but reduces its flexibility. Some surfboards have multiple stringers.

Surfboard construction

Polyurethane(P.U.) boards

Surfboards are usually made using polyurethane foam. First, the foam is cast into a “rectangle” or “blank”, which is then shaped into a surfboard. Shapers are engaged in the production of surfboards from these blanks. ( Who are shapers? People whoturn a piece of foam into a beautiful board). Shapers plan and cut this blank until they give it the correct shape. This sub-board is then covered with one or more layers of fiberglass fabric and resin. It is at this stage that the inserts for the fins and leash are installed. There is another way to make boards using epoxy resin and polystyrene foam. By the way, in last years Surfboards made from balsa and polystyrene are becoming increasingly popular. Although foam blanks are typically processed by hand, the use of special machines to shape them is becoming increasingly popular. Vacuum forming and modern sandwich construction technologies borrowed from other industries have also become commonplace in the surf industry. Many surfers now ride epoxy boards. They are especially popular among new surfers as they are more durable.

Balsa wood boards

The history of surfboards made from this wood originates from the Hawaiians. Being lightweight and durable, balsa wood has long been considered an ideal material for making surfboards. But shapers weren't able to use this fragile wood until almost after World War II, when fiberglass was invented and they could coat this board so it wouldn't pick up water. These boards are very light and not very strong.

Hollow wooden boards

Hollow surfboard - production. All about surfboards

These surfboards are made from wood and epoxy resin or oil (an alternative to epoxy). There is now a return to using wood for surfboards after foam became dominant in the 1950s. Hollow wooden surfboards have no foam in their construction. (Boards made using foam and wood are commonly known as veneer surfboards.) Various methods fabrications are used to create a cavity inside surfboards and lighten the weight of the finished board. As a general rule, hollow wooden surfboards are typically 30% to 300% heavier than standard “foam boards.” The main source of inspiration, besides their beauty of course, is that this is a more environmentally friendly method of making surfboards (compared to epoxy resin and polyurethane), which uses fast-growing wood from paulownia, cedar, spruce, and mahogany.

Types of surfboards:

Shortboards

In the late 1960s, Gordon Clark found the optimal formula for polyurethane foam. The boards became lighter and began to be shortened. They were called shortboards. They were 6 or 7 feet long (about 2 meters) with a pointed nose and a rounded or square tail, with three fins, sometimes two or even five. A shortboard is more maneuverable than other types of surfboards, but does not have enough "float" (displacement) due to its smaller size, making it harder to catch waves on a shortboard. This board requires steeper, larger and more powerful waves and a very late start (jumping on the board) when the surfer catches the wave at the critical moment when the wave has almost collapsed. Now shortboards can be as short as you like, because there are also children's boards and boards with a cut off nose. In the modern sense, a shortboard is a sharp light board around 5 -6 feet. For example, in this photo I have a 5 foot 9 inch shortboard. With a weight of 65 kg, I feel very comfortable riding it.

Surfboard - shortboard. All about surfboards

Hybrid

Modern hybrid boards are typically 6' to 8'6" (1.8-2.3m) in length with a more rounded profile and tail shape. Boards for not big waves with any fin setups. This is more of a board for riding for fun rather than a “sport mode” or tricks. Popular with beginner surfers and generally where it is difficult to catch a wave on a short board (the wave is flat).

Fish

A board up to 6 feet (1.8 m) that originated from Kneeboards in 1967 thanks to Steve Lees. Typically, a “fish” or “fish” has two fins and a swallow tail. The board is very good for small waves. The fish became popular in the early 2000s after legendary surfer Tom Curren rode it at the ASP World Championships in Hossegor. Please note, any type of surfboard (shortboard or mini longboard) can have a fishtail and they are commonly referred to as a fishtail, but they do not have the properties of a traditional "retro" fishtail.

Funboard

Funboard combines elements of both shortboard and longboard. Typically averaging 7 to 8 feet (2.1 to 2.4 m). The funboard's design makes it easier to catch waves than a shortboard, and its shape makes it more maneuverable than a longboard. A popular surfboard, especially among beginners or those moving from a longboard to the more challenging shortboard. A great combination of longboard speed and shortboard maneuverability.

Gun (gun)

Big wave board, 7 to 12 feet (2.1 to 3.7 m) long. They have a thin, almost needle-like profile with one, three or four fins. This board has appearance shortboard at the size of a longboard. These boards are used for riding in places where there are huge waves, such as Waimea Bay, Jaws, Mavericks, etc.

Longboards:

Longbods are surfboards with primarily a single fin and a large, rounded nose, ranging from 8 to 12 feet (2.4 to 3.7 m) in length. Noseriders are a class of longboards that allow the surfer to reach up to the tip of the board's nose and ride it. They range from 8 to 14 feet (2.4 to 4.3 m) in length. The advantage of a longboard is its significant buoyancy. It can be used on waves that are too small for a shortboard. Longboards are also more suitable for beginners due to their size and ease of catching waves. Longboards are more stable boards than shortboards.

Surfboard - longboard. All about surfboards

Classic Longboards (History of Surfing)

Longboards are the original and first type of board used for standing skating. From the sixth century to Gregorian calendar. The ancient Hawaiians used 8 to 30 foot (2.4 to 9.1 m) solid wooden planks weighing up to 120 kg. This ancient art was called "Hoe he'e Nalu". Surfing was brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians and has since become popular throughout the world. Men and women, rich and poor rode them. But the longest of the boards (Olo, "The Olo") was reserved for the royal family. You couldn't ride on a board bigger than the king's. In the 19th century, some Western missionaries visiting the islands viewed surfing as sinful. Surfing then almost completely died out. Now some shapers are making replicas of ancient boards to further explore the roots of surfing.

By the early 20th century, very few people were riding, mostly in Waikiki. There, surfing began to develop again. Beginning in 1912, Duke Kahanamoku, a Hawaiian Olympic swimmer, brought surfing to the continental United States and Australia. Because of this, the Duke is considered the "Father of Modern Surfing". From that moment on, surfing became an integral part beach look life. In Malibu (Los Angeles), the local beach was so popular among those "early" surfers that it gave its name to a type of longboard. In the 1920s, plywood boards called Hollowboards came into fashion. These were surfboards that were 15 to 20 feet (4.6 to 6.1 m) long and relatively lightweight. During the 1950s, surfing's popularity skyrocketed and it gained recognition as a sport. Then they began to make boards from balsa wood.

The introduction of polyurethane foam and fiberglass was a technological leap in board design. Longboarding changed in the 1960s. It was no longer made of balsa wood, but of fiberglass and polyurethane foam. In the 1960s, the shortboard, averaging 6 ft 6 in (1.98 m), emerged, allowing surfers to make tighter turns, quicker maneuvers and achieve higher speeds. This “shortboard revolution” has almost made longboards “obsolete” buckets :) But in the early 1990s, the longboard made a comeback, integrating a number of design features, invented during the "shortboard revolution". Surfers have rediscovered the special “glide” of a longboard and the pleasure of classic maneuvers that are not possible on a shortboard. There are still debates about what is cooler: long or short, but in my opinion, the choice of board depends on what kind of waves are on the spot today :)

Modern longboards

The modern longboard has undergone many changes since its early models in the past. Today, the longboard is much lighter than its predecessors. Its polyurethane foam construction reduces drag when driving through waves. Today, longboards are typically 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3.0 m) long, although some models are up to 12 feet (3.7 m) long. The classic single fin longboard retains much of its design, but the weight has changed and it has gained significant buoyancy. With recent advancements in technology, the longboard family has expanded.

The 2+1 longboard system is more maneuverable than a regular single fin longboard. They are sometimes called "single fins with training wheels." The 2 + 1 system actually has the features of a classic longboard and a thruster system. 2+1 boards have the rigid stability of a classic longboard, and merge the strength and stability of a thruster system. The fins can be removed if desired.

Mini Tanker

The mini tanker is a shortened form of the longboard that uses the same design elements as the longboard + improved maneuverability due to the shorter shape. These boards are commonly used by women, children and in teaching.

Malibu

This longboard is named after Malibu, California. This shape is narrower than most longs and is slightly curved at the tip and tail for added maneuverability. This classic shape was very popular due to its maneuverability and performance. Classic longboard tricks can be performed on the Malibu: “Hang Fives” and “Hang Tens” (nose riding), riding in a different stance, riding on your head and so on.

The famous Duke and the Olo board. All about surfboards

Longboards were originally reserved for Hawaiian royalty. These are wooden planks over 24 feet (7.3 m) long and weighing about 90 kg.

Alaya

The shaper sands the alaya board. All about surfboards

Traditional wooden surfboards without fins, popular among the ancient Hawaiians. Measuring approximately 17 feet (5.2 m) and weighing 200 pounds (91 kg). Modern alayas are much thinner and lighter. Many are only 3/4 inch thick and can be about 6 feet long. Typically the wood used is paulownia, cedar and other varieties suitable for salty ocean waters. There are tails different styles. A very difficult board to ride! Popular with fashionistas or true surfers.

Tandem

Surfing - tandem. All about surfboards

Riding a large volume board together. Duke Kahanamoku and Isabel Letham were the first to ride this way in Australia. Usually accompanied by elements from figure skating :)

Other types of surfboards include bodyboards, SUP boards, and so on. These types of surfing will be discussed another time.

If you've read this far, you now know enough about surfboards! Writing this article was not an easy task, so I will be very pleased if you share it with your friends as a thank you. Information from Wikipedia was also used for the article.

Sergey Mysovsky.

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Windsurfing is one of the most exciting and... Windsurfing is a hybrid of surfing and sailing. To ride the waves, athletes use a windsurf (sometimes called a windsurfer, just like the athlete himself). This is a floating board to which a mast with a sail is attached.

You can make your own windsurfing board

This board does not have a steering wheel. The athlete learns to control the projectile by adjusting the direction of the sail and the positions of his own body.

No less exciting than surfing, but less expensive than sailing boats. Moreover, you can make a windsurf for this type of active sport with your own hands at home. True, for this you must be able to handle wood well and it is advisable to know at least in theory the basics of elementary shipbuilding.

Before describing the process of producing a floating product, you need to decide what materials you will need.

Materials

Stock up on all the necessary materials and tools in advance to make it less fussy and more seamless. Try to be careful when purchasing material. The process of creating a surf sail is already quite labor-intensive. And buying missing products will only add to the hassle.

So, before you start making the board, buy the following consumables:

two large sheets of plywood. It is necessary that the thickness of each of them reaches 4 millimeters;
a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick;
slats 20 by 20 millimeters. You will need about seven pieces;
seven meters of thin slats;
slats 2.5 meters long, 10 by 30 mm. You need to purchase six pieces;
a small piece of plywood up to two millimeters thick;
epoxy waterproof glue;
nails;
construction foam;
fiberglass;
waterproof dyes;
metal strips;
a small piece of brass;
duralumin strip 4–5 mm thick.

After purchasing all these goods, you can begin the process of creating a sailing shell.

Frame

The first step is to make a board - the body of the product. You can see the dimensions of its parts and the principle of their relationship below in Figure 1.

Keelsons

When making a surf with your own hands, we take plywood and cut two keelsons. They can be made using a regular saw. For convenience, first draw the outlines of one keelson and cut it out, and make the second board in the image and likeness of the first.

The keelsons need to be connected along the contour. This is done using slats. Don't forget that the product will have a mast. Leave room for her. The future level of controllability of the surf depends on how you secure the mast and centerboard.

When creating the board, be sure to cut small holes in the keelsons. This will help the device ventilate in the future.

Most likely, the sheets of plywood you purchased will not be long enough to create one-piece design. But the board can be glued together. Use a rasp to process the parts to be glued. The gluing areas need to be processed so that they become rough (this will increase the level of adhesion). After this, grease the edges of the board with epoxy glue and connect the sheets of plywood. A rod can be inserted between them to determine the internal height of the projectile. Overlapping areas of the plywood structure must be nailed down. When the workpiece dries, the sharp tips of the nails will need to be bitten off. The lath is also removed when dry.

Deck and bottom

They can also be made. This is done according to the drawings. These cut parts must first be glued to the keelson and then secured with nails. Please ensure that the fastenings are located from each other at a distance not exceeding thirty centimeters.

The sides need to be filled with construction foam. In the worst case, you can use the packaging form of this material.

Lubricate the foam with epoxy to secure it. Glue must be applied to each piece. After this, the material should “look” behind the board by half a centimeter.

When the glue dries, you will need to give the foam an oval shape. This is easy to do with sandpaper.

The resulting structure must be “packed” in fiberglass. You can use a wood stapler for this.

Holes

After upholstery, it is necessary to prepare holes in the places to which the fin, steps and centerboard will be attached.

Painting

Now you can give the device the desired appearance by painting the board with waterproof paint. If you saturate the plywood with drying oil after painting, it will last longer.

Mast

The mast created can be made from long slats. In principle, they can be replaced with a duralumin tube.

When creating a mast from slats, they need to be glued together according to the drawings presented in Figure 1 and processed.

After manufacturing, the mast must be tested for strength. If the device turns out to be too flexible, coat it with epoxy glue and cover it with one layer of fiberglass. This should increase the elasticity of the product.

The mast must be coated with water-repellent varnish.

Make flats on its thick ends. Each will have a hinge attached. You can see its device in Figure 2.

The hinge cube is made of brass, and the metal parts are made of metal strips, the thickness of which is 2–4 millimeters.

Geek

10 by 30 millimeter slats are also useful for it. They need to be laid on the tsulaga and precisely adjusted to one another. After this, the surface of the slats must be sanded with sandpaper and coated with glue. Now they can be clamped with tsulaga.

The outer frame must be made from prepared duralumin.

Fin and centerboard

The centerboard of your surfboard should be movable. The athlete must be able to slide it in and out. It can be made from plywood 1 centimeter thick. You will need to cut out two identical shapes and then glue them together.

The centerboard feather needs to be shaped like a drop. After this, saturate the centerboard with drying oil.

Glue the fin from three- or four-millimeter plywood.

Sail

The sail is the engine of your surf. Therefore, it is advisable not to save on it. Don't skimp and buy this part in the store.

However, if you decide to create this part of the projectile with your own hands, do it carefully and carefully.

Material

Choose synthetic material with a minimum level of ventilation. It will not gain much weight when wet and will cope well with the role of a “tractor”.

Dacron is ideal. You can also use a thin tarp.

For loyal riding conditions, you can choose jacket and raincoat fabrics, as well as cotton materials. But when using them, remember the need for additional reinforcement. False seams will help you with this.

Cut

The sail should be cut after the mast is installed on board. This way you will know the exact required dimensions and even calculate the deflection.

To cut the fabric, lay it on the floor. Determine the luff lengths, sail angles and draw on the material. Roulette will help you with this. Hammer a nail at the tops of the corners. Tie a thread to each nail. Pull it towards each corner to form a triangle.

The length of the thread on each side of the triangle should match the length of the luff.

Transfer the dimensions of the sickles from the drawing. Using a regular felt-tip pen, you can outline the maximum sail dimensions for yourself. Don't forget about hem allowances. On average, one allowance can reach half a meter.

After installing the sail, the product is considered ready.

If you know a little more about how to create a windsurf yourself, please share your experience in the comments.

Fair wind to you!