Drawings of a wooden cage for rabbits. Cages for rabbits: drawings with dimensions and descriptions. Assembling a rabbit house

Rabbit breeding is quite common. The meat of this animal is considered dietary; they are bred quickly enough and do not require a special diet. All this together allows their breeding for families of any income. People living in Russia are also not lagging behind - they have decorative breeds as pets. However, for any animal it is necessary that it will be comfortable. Today we’ll talk about making a structure such as a rabbit cage with your own hands (step-by-step instructions with photo examples will help you figure out how to build it).

Only at first glance it seems that all cells are the same. In fact, there are differences between them. They may differ in height (1, 2 or 3 tiers), age of the eared (for adults or young animals). For different breeds, the cells differ in size (dwarf, regular, giant). Also, designs may differ depending on the direction of the rabbits, which can be decorative or productive. We invite you to familiarize yourself with examples of such structures in the photo.

DIY cages for domestic rabbits:

Two-tier rabbit cages for small areas:

1 of 8

Other wooden rabbit cages:

1 of 6

Rabbit cages

How to build a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands: drawing up a drawing, algorithm of actions

In order to build a cage for a decorative rabbit, you will need to complete a preliminary drawing. It can be done by hand on a regular piece of paper or use any computer paper. You can see approximately what the scheme will look like in the photo.

Drawings of rabbit cages that can be used to build a house:

Helpful information! When designing, it is worth considering a home for a decorative rabbit in such a way that it can move freely without sitting in one place. When installing a cage in a limited space, it is better to make it in two tiers with the ability to move from one to another.

After drawing up the drawing, you can begin assembly, for which you will need to have on hand:

• plywood or ;
• plastic or ;
• bars for the frame;
• mesh;
• construction stapler or small nails with;

To begin with, plywood (chipboard) is sheathed with plastic or linoleum, which is secured with a stapler and nails. After this, the frame is assembled and interfloor ceilings are installed. Lastly, the frame is covered with mesh.

Important! If the cage has 2 floors, then two doors are made: one at the bottom at the end, the second at the top, in the form of a hatch. This will make it easier to remove the rabbit and transplant it to another place while cleaning.

Examples of cages for decorative rabbits in the photo

Having looked at examples of ready-made houses, it will be easier to understand how to properly make a cage for a decorative breed of rabbit.

Examples of finished cages for decorative breeds of rabbits:

How to make a two-tier rabbit cage with your own hands: nuances

If this is not the first time a person is engaged in such work, then, as such, he no longer needs a drawing - everything that is required is “stored” in his head. However, it is better for novice home craftsmen to sketch out a schematic representation of the future house for long-eared pets.

Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions: examples

In order for the dear reader not to reinvent the wheel, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with examples of schematic images various types similar cells.

Drawings of various types of cages for rabbits for your own production:

Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples

Having understood how to draw a drawing, you can proceed directly to construction. The editors of the site will tell you in detail how to make cages for rabbits, supporting the text information with photo examples.

How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands: installation of the frame and the bottom of one of the tiers

So, let's look at the sequence of work:

Illustration	Description of action
	To make a frame from the material, you will need timber (the length of the timber is indicated in the photo). We trim the ribs that will be inside the cage with a corner - this will protect the wood from sharp rabbit teeth. The end result should be a fairly large rabbit cage.
	First, we assemble the sides of the frame of the future cage. The parts are fastened together using angles and self-tapping screws with a press washer 40 mm long.
	Having measured a distance from the edge equal to the future door, mark it and attach a partition from a pre-prepared part - this will add strength and ensure fastening of the hatch. We perform the same actions on the other side.
	Between doorways We install 2 bars in the shape of the letter “V”. Subsequently, it will be in which fresh burdock or cabbage leaves are placed.
	Having assembled 2 similar partitions, we connect them with pieces of timber using the same corners and screws. The only difference is that it is better to take reinforced corners for these purposes.
	As a result, we get this frame, which is ready for covering, however, the bottom should be made first. Often a mesh is used for this purpose, but long-eared animals can fall into the cells with their paw and damage it, so we choose another option.
	To install the bottom you will need slats measuring 24x12 mm, a drill, and the same self-tapping screws with a press washer 40 mm long. A drill is used here to drill the slats to avoid splitting them.
	Having fixed the first rail, we lay two without fasteners, screwing only the third one. This allows you to measure exactly 48 mm without a tape measure or extra marks, which means it saves time. We repeat these steps until the bottom is completely covered.
	When this work is completed, we fix one more between the fixed slats. So the gaps between them will be of such a size that will not allow the rabbits to fall between the strips.
	The last step is to cut off the excessively protruding parts. You should not do this as in the photo - with a metal cutting disc. It may overheat. It is better to use a hacksaw or.

We sheathe the frame and install the tiers in place

Now let's start covering the frame and further installation tiers of cage:

Illustration	Description of action
	First, the mesh is attached to the feeder in such a way that the bars remain inside the cage, and the fastening screws are on the outside - this will eliminate the risk of injury for the rabbits.
	Having installed 4 racks in the corners, we fasten the first tier with corners, cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal, and fix the stop for the second floor a little higher. There must be a distance between the tiers that will allow production.
	We perform the same actions with galvanizing on the second floor. Please note that the photo shows a technological opening that makes cleaning easier.
	The third tier is installed in a similar way. Their number depends on the wishes of the owner, however, it is worth remembering that cages that are too high will be inconvenient to maintain. You can't run around rabbit houses
	Lastly, we install the doors. Making them is not difficult, you just need to assemble the frame to size and cover it with mesh. The doors can be hung on any hinges, you can even use piano hinges.
	Now all that remains is final disinfection before moving in. Burn using a torch wooden surfaces– in addition to destroying microbes, this action allows you to remove burrs that remain after cutting. At the end of the firing, the cage is treated with an antiseptic, after which the first residents can be moved into it.

As you can see, you just need to put your hands to it - there is nothing super complicated in building homemade cages for rabbits.

Installation of a rabbit cage made of mesh: what you need

In fact, everything is quite simple here. Use wire cutting pliers to cut the walls required sizes, which are subsequently stitched together with aluminum or copper wire. It would be more logical to make the door from the end of the structure. Sheet bending is also used. When using it, the long walls, floor and ceiling of the cage will be made of solid mesh and sewn together only on one edge.

Helpful information! Such houses for eared animals are not durable due to the lack of a frame. It is not recommended to place them in several tiers. Therefore, if you need a quality home for animals, it is better to use a frame option.

Making your own rabbit cage using the Mikhailov method

Quite an interesting design that helps awaken the instincts of rabbits, which contributes to the rapid growth of the population in one individual house. Let's try to figure out how to build a similar cage for rabbits.

Drawing up drawings and diagrams for a cell using the Mikhailov method

It makes no sense to pore over the drawings yourself, especially if you do not have specific experience in such work. It is much more convenient to find them on the Internet. The Homius editors have already done this for the convenience of our Dear Reader. You can see them in the pictures below.

Drawings of cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method:

Work performed when assembling the stand and other parts of the rabbit cage

Carefully study the drawings and photos of finished houses - this will help you complete all the work correctly. The shaft located in the middle of the cage will serve to remove animal feces, so the inside should be lined with frost-resistant or bicrost. Experts do not recommend using roofing material - its rough surface will collect dirt, which is very difficult to clean. The dimensions of a do-it-yourself rabbit cage are chosen individually; there are no standards for the area of ​​the houses.

Special attention should be paid to the walking and nesting areas. Compartments for walking rabbits are equipped with drinking bowls and feeders. It is better to make the floor from slats (by analogy with the step-by-step instructions). The queen cell is equipped with a small entrance (like a hole), from which there is a small tunnel that goes down 9 cm. This creates a resemblance to the natural habitat and helps to awaken the instincts of rabbits, including the reproductive instinct. The mother liquor is thoroughly insulated. If the winters in the region are quite severe, it is allowed to equip a nesting compartment, which promotes the reproduction of rabbits even in the cold season.

Drinkers and feeders are made automatic. You can see what they look like in the pictures.

Feeders and drinkers automatic type do not require constant monitoring:

The upper third tier is most often used as a jigging tier - a few mature rabbits that are able to live without a mother are placed in it. It is also equipped with drinking bowls and feeders. The roof is made pitched, with a pipe leading through it, which is necessary for additional ventilation of the compartments.

Helpful information! Such designs greatly facilitate the farmer’s work. If installed correctly, the owner is required to maintain no more than half an hour a week.

Buying cages for rabbits: which one is better to choose?

If there is no time for self-production cells or there is no desire to do this, you can purchase a ready-made structure. Its form will depend on the goals pursued by the owner. Provided that rabbits are kept “for the soul”, it makes sense to purchase a simple frame house. If you plan to breed eared animals with subsequent profit, preference should be given to cages constructed according to the Mikhailov or Zolotukhin method. Such houses will allow you to get a large offspring in a short time.

Rabbit cages

Summarize

A farmer who breeds rabbits cannot do without good cages to keep them. Of course, it is easier to purchase such structures, but their cost cannot be called low. This means that making a rabbit house with your own hands will be much more profitable. The main thing is to understand that a rabbit cage made with high quality and according to all the rules will contribute to the rapid reproduction and weight gain of long-eared pets. Although some farmers claim that for their normal maintenance, a hole dug with an excavator and covered with plexiglass or plywood is sufficient. It is possible that this is true, but only for one specific breed. The majority of rabbits need more comfortable living conditions.

Many novice farmers wonder where to start raising rabbits. This activity will not require any special expenses. First of all, it is necessary to arrange a place of residence for eared animals, prepare cages, drinking bowls, and feeders. All this can be easily done with your own hands. The main thing is to choose the appropriate design and size for the cage, prepare drawings, necessary tools and building materials.

First of all, you need to decide on the sizes. The most common are double designs with two separate sections. There are other types of cages: single-section, group for young rabbits, three sections or for a rabbit with babies. There are also original designs: from farmer Zolotukhin, from breeder Tsvetkov. Based on what will be built, materials are selected.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of cell, and then purchase the material.

Necessary tools for construction:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• corner;
• pliers;
• plane;
• screwdriver.

Any design requires a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and door. Most often, wood and metal mesh are used to construct cages. Each cell of such a grid should be no more than 2*2 cm and at least 16*47 mm in diameter (depending on the age and weight of the rabbits).

The minimum set of materials includes:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• screws and nails;
• bars;
• slats;
• durable galvanized mesh (with small cells).

To make the door, curtains and latches, as well as feeders and drinking bowls are additionally purchased.

The wood must be well sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh must be securely fastened. Be sure to remove all sharp edges so that the animal does not get hurt. It is better to cover all protruding wooden parts inside the cage with tin. Rabbits love to chew on wood to wear down their teeth. Therefore, you need to put twigs in their feeder more often. The walls and roof can be made of plywood and mesh, and thick blocks of wood are chosen for the main frame.

Attention. If the cage is located in an open space, on the street, then you cannot do without good roofing materials. But metal roof It's not worth doing. In the summer, the sun will become very hot, which will lead to heatstroke in rabbits.

Most often, rabbit cages are made of wood and mesh.

The frame is made of thick bars, the length of which depends on the location of the cage. If it is installed outdoors, then the length of the frame legs should not be less than 80-100 cm. For a cage standing indoors, 35-40 cm in length is sufficient.

Sizes and types of cells

First of all, you need to find or do it yourself, correct drawing. It is important to remember that one cage is not enough to breed rabbits. You need to build three or four at once.

The average dimensions of a standard cage are:

• length 120-140 cm;
• width 70-80 cm;
• height 40-50 cm.

For young rabbits, a length of about 90 cm is sufficient, and other parameters can remain the same. It is customary to allocate at least 0.7 square meters per adult animal. m. area, for young animals - 0.2 sq. m. m.

There can be several types of cells:

• for young animals;
• for adult rabbits;
• for a female rabbit with offspring;
• for giant rabbits;
• solid wire;
• cells from Zolotukhin;
• cells from Tsvetkov;
• Rabbitax.

It is customary to keep female rabbits and babies together, and a separate house is built for older rabbits.

A standard two-story house for adult rabbits is not difficult to build.

In the drawing it will look like this:

Drawing of a two-tier cage for rabbits.

Cage for young animals

Grown-up rabbits, weaned from their mother, are kept together in groups of 10-20 individuals. When making a cage, they are guided by the minimum dimensions: a total area of ​​300×100 cm and a ceiling height of 50-60 cm. It is advisable to make the floor in such a house from thin wooden slats, covering them on the side with a metal mesh (1.5 mm thick and a cell diameter of 15 * 40 mm ). You can install a completely mesh floor, but make a separate warm room for the rabbits. In winter, it is carefully insulated with hay and straw.

Important: One rabbit should have at least 0.2-0.3 square meters. m. area.

Some farmers do not make separate housing for young animals, but place them in cages intended for adult animals. At the same time, it is calculated how many rabbits can be placed in one cage to provide them with comfortable conditions.

For adult rabbits

For medium-sized adult animals, cages with a depth of about 70 cm, a height of 60 cm and a length of at least a meter are suitable. A block design is used here, and each block, in turn, is divided by a grid into two cells. During the mating period, the partition should be removed, combining the two sections into one.

For adult rabbits, you can make a block of cages in 2 or 3 tiers.

You can make a two-tier and three-tier cage. This will be a little more complicated, but it will save space on the site.

Any cage should have a separate place for sleeping, eating or walking. To do this, the cage is separated by a plywood partition with a hole (20x20 cm) located at a height of 15 cm from the floor. The sleeping compartment should have a solid wooden door, and the area for eating and walking should have a mesh door. The resting place does not need to be made large. Ideal dimensions, approximately 30x60x50 cm.

House for a female rabbit with offspring

You can often hear the opinion that a rabbit with babies needs a separate queen cell only for winter period, and in the summer an ordinary cage is enough. But you need to remember that in an open room, fenced only with a net, the female will be nervous and worried. This can have a negative impact on the health of the offspring. The queen house must have a closed, warm place for the nest and a large space for walking, with a mesh front wall.

This is one of the simplest and most functional options for a house for a female with offspring:

The photo shows a two-tier cage for rabbits with hanging nesting compartments.

The frame is made from strong bars, and the back wall and two side walls are made from plywood. The cage is immediately divided into two sections: a large one for walking and a small one for the nest. For each of them, separate doors are made (mesh and solid wood). The walls, floor and ceiling in the queen cell should be double, according to the sandwich principle. You can lay foam or straw between them. The roof is covered with slate.

House for giant rabbits

Cages for these large animals must be significantly larger than usual. Adults can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach a weight of 7.5 kg.

There are many giant breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• grey;
• Belgian;
• ram;
• white;
• Viennese blue.

The minimum dimensions of a house for one rabbit should be as follows:

• height 55-65 cm;
• length 0.9-1.5 m;
• width 70-75 cm.

If possible, it is better to increase the parameters of the home.

For young rabbits, a special group cage is built, 40-50 cm high and about 1.2 square meters in area. m. Considering the considerable weight of the animals, the floor is well strengthened. It is also made from galvanized mesh, only thicker. To prevent such a floor from sagging, a sheathing is made under it from bars located at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

It is recommended to keep giant rabbits in spacious cages with a solid floor.

Some rabbit breeders install a solid wooden floor in their cages and install plastic trays underneath. But cleaning such a cage will have to be done at least twice a day.

All wire cage

This is the most a budget option rabbit housing, which can be installed both outdoors and indoors. These lightweight and durable cages take up little space and are easy to clean and maintain. To make them, you will need two types of mesh: a larger one for the walls and ceiling (diameter 2.5*5 cm) and a smaller one for the floor (1.5*5 cm). The frame is built from durable timber, with legs 50-70 cm long. For the winter, such a structure is placed in an insulated shed, and in the summer it is taken outside.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

The famous breeder N.I. Zolotukhin developed his own, original, simple and inexpensive design of housing for rabbits. There is no need for daily cleaning in the cages, and the animals in them feel comfortable and get sick less.

Zolotukhin's cell is a three-story structure with a sloping plywood floor. The mesh is laid on the floor only in a small space near the back wall, without a tray. The second tier is shifted relative to the first by the width of this grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall (common to all three floors) forms a slope. Each compartment is equipped with a tilting feeder.

This is what Zolotukhin’s three-tier cage looks like from behind.

To build a cage you will need: wood, straight slate sheets, metal mesh, polycarbonate and tin. Pre-fabricated wooden frame, partitions and doors of the queen cell. Mesh is used for cage doors and the back of the floor. The floor itself is made of slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. All wooden parts located inside the cage are covered with tin.

Cage dimensions:

• height 150 cm;
• width 200cm;
• depth about 70-80 cm;
• floor slope 6-8 cm;
• mesh width in front of the back wall is 15-20 cm;
• door size 40*40 cm.

Each floor is divided by a partition into two sections, and between them there is space for a hay barn.

Cells from Tsvetkov

Experienced farmer A. A. Tsvetkov proposed the idea of ​​a two-story mini-farm for rabbits, consisting of 4 separate sections. A distinctive feature of such cages is: two gravity feeders, two hanging queen cells, original ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is built from coniferous timber and must be painted with white nitro paint. To make a hay barn, moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is suitable. The inside of the hay barn is lined with metal mesh, which also acts as a door in each section.

The photo shows rabbit cages made according to the drawings of farmer Tsvetkov.

All wooden parts are sheathed with sheet metal, the cone for collecting manure is covered with slate mastic. For the roof you can use slate or roofing felt. The water in the drinking bowls is heated using a boiler.

Rabbitax cells

Rabbitax cells come in different designs and modifications. The simplest ones are small two-section options. There are also environmental models based on air flow redirection technology.

There are even real farms for Rabbits rabbits, in which more than 25 individuals live and breed at the same time. You can find a huge number of varieties of such cells on sale. You can make Rabbitax yourself. You can take the drawings of rabbit breeder I. N. Mikhailov as a basis.

Rules for making a cage

In order for the rabbits to be comfortable and comfortable in the new house, during construction you need to follow a few simple rules:

• all wooden protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin;
• It is better to use slate for roofing;
• Antiseptics, varnishes and impregnations cannot be used;
• for the floor, take a mesh with cells with a diameter of 1 * 2.5 cm to 2.5 * 2.5;
• the frame is built from durable wooden beams (at least 5*5 cm);
• The back wall of the cage is made of plywood.

The floor in rabbit cages is made of wooden slats or mesh.

How to build a rabbit hutch

When a drawing has been selected, materials and tools have been prepared, construction can begin. First you need to assemble a frame from timber and lay a mesh floor. In outdoor conditions, the floor will have to be insulated and there will be removable trays underneath (for cleaning).

Next, install the back wall made of plywood. It should be lower than the front one. It is also advisable to make the side walls of plywood. In a double cage, a hay barn is set up in the middle. And the front wall can be made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be located outside, then it is worth taking care of an insulated compartment for sleeping. The sloping roof is covered with slate.

What do we place inside the cage?

The internal contents of the cell may vary. It depends on who will live in it. So, for a female rabbit with babies, it is necessary to arrange special queen cells and nesting compartments. When keeping young animals in groups, warm nesting rooms will also be needed. Often special indoor enclosures for walking are set up for them. Each cage must have bunkers, drinking bowls, feeders, and hay barns.

It is advisable to place the feeder and drinker outside the cage so that the rabbit cannot chew them.

Choosing a place to install the cage

Before you begin construction, it is important to decide on the placement of the cage. This should be a comfortable place, protected from draft winds. You should not install a rabbit house on the south side, because in summer the animals will suffer from the heat. It is necessary to strictly observe the size of the cage, depending on the breed and number of rabbits. For ease of cleaning, the cages have a removable roof.

If the animals live on the street all year round, then it is better to make the floor from wood in the form of a retractable tray. And then stuff the sheathing of slats on top. Feeders and drinkers can be removable. The walls and ceiling are insulated with foam plastic, and a heated floor is installed in the uterine compartment.

We offer video instructions for viewing that will help you build cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Breeding rabbits in a country plot or country house requires a lot of knowledge about the lifestyle and habits of these animals. Much attention is paid to their diet and diet. At the same time, we should not forget about rabbit houses, since clean and comfortable housing is the key to the health and well-being of furry pets. There are many designs of cages for rabbits, made from a variety of materials with your own hands. The wooden structures brought to your attention can simplify the care of animals and will decorate the economic area.

Simple Design Rabbit Hutch

Due to the simplicity of the design, such a cage can be made with minimal experience in working with carpentry tools. To make it you will need wooden slats and bars, plywood, metal mesh, bitumen shingles and plexiglass. Despite the fact that this type of cage is not particularly complex, it looks beautiful and interesting, which all members of your family will appreciate.

Assembling the cage frame for rabbits

To facilitate the process of feeding animals, the cage is installed on an elevated surface, constructing an additional stand. The height is selected so that both adults and children can care for the animals. In order to have feed and hay at hand, and also not to look for additional space for storing food, the frame is equipped with a spacious shelf.

Cages for rabbits drawings

For the support posts of the cage you will need a wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 60×60 mm and a height of 850 mm.

When cutting wood, do not forget process the edges of the slats. This will avoid splinters and increase the aesthetics of the rabbit cage design.

The base frame and shelf support are attached to the main posts. To do this, four boards are screwed into the upper part of the frame with self-tapping screws and at a distance of 372 mm from the floor. It is important to correctly mark and monitor the geometry of the structure using a carpenter's square and a level. The result should be a smooth, stable structure without distortions or crooked corners.

To make a cage with an additional compartment, a neat figured cutout is made in the front board of the upper frame. The cut out part is attached to the old place using a piano loop. A narrow hinged part will provide access to the inside of the cage in the future.

On the inside of the upper and lower frames, they are mounted as spacers additional slats. They eliminate the instability of the structure and serve as support for the flooring, so they require especially careful adjustment.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

In the corners of wooden boards or boards used as a shelf and the base of the cage, a cutout is made for support legs. The shields are installed in their places, after which the work at this stage is considered completed.

Main compartment assembly

A rabbit cage should please the owner not only with its durability and reliability, but also with its attractive appearance. Assembling a cage for rabbits begins from the front part, and step-by-step instructions will help you understand in detail all the nuances of the work with your own hands.

Cages for rabbits drawings

At the first stage they collect door box. To do this, a rectangular frame is assembled from slats using furniture dowels and self-tapping screws. A groove is cut out for the vertical movement of the door. A sliding partition frame is made that is slightly larger than the height of the box. Dowels are installed from the outer surface, after which the door is installed in place by inserting the dowels into the prepared slots on the side jambs.

Compartments are installed from wooden slats on both sides of the opening. The rear part of the structure, as well as the side walls, are assembled.

How to make a rabbit cage. Photo

The eight slats from which the roof rafters will be made are cut at an acute angle. The rafters are assembled by fastening the pointed elements in pairs, after which they are finally fixed with self-tapping screws. After this, the brackets are removed and the rafters are attached to the base of the roof.

Triangular elements are cut out of a sheet of plywood to block access from the doorway to the roof. They are attached with self-tapping screws to the central rafters in accordance with the attached diagram.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

The roof is sheathed plywood sheets, cutting them according to the drawing. The rear slope is made with a cutout mounted on a piano hinge. The folding part of the roof will make it easier to access the interior of the cage. To connect the central part of the front roof slope with the side elements, small sections are cut out in its corners.

After assembling the base of the rabbit cage with your own hands is completed, the structure is treated with drying oil, dried, and then painted with one or two layers of oil paint. Despite the longer drying period, it will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

How to sheathe walls and roof

Cages for rabbits drawings

The inside of all the walls, as well as the door of the rabbit cage, are covered with your own hands using a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a metal mesh with a mesh size of no more than 25x25 mm.

First, the ends of the cage are sewn up, and then the front wall is mounted above the doorway.

To make the design convenient to transport, folding handles are screwed onto the sides of the frame support frame.

Install on the front board of the upper support frame valve for fixing the narrow folding part.

The latch is also installed on the cage door.

Decorate The design can be made using the figure of a rabbit cut from plywood. It is painted and then glued or secured with self-tapping screws to the front wall of the roof.

Protect the piano hinge, which ensures the mobility of the folding part of the roof, can be done using universal adhesive tape. Glued on top of the metal, it will prevent rust and ensure reliable operation of the part.

Using a stapler and metal staples measuring 8 mm or more, attach them to the roof sheathing of the rabbit house. bitumen shingles.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

Using special glue for soft roofing, a long, narrow piece of bitumen canvas is used to construct roof ridge.

cut out plexiglass according to the size of one of the side walls, after which a latch is mounted in its upper part. If necessary, this element will be able to protect animals from drafts and rain. The plexiglass is installed on the frame, securing it at the bottom with furniture dowels, and at the top by fixing the latch bolt in a pre-drilled hole.

Small ladders and an internal house are assembled for animals. After impregnation with drying oil, the parts are painted and placed inside the cage.

After the paint is completely dry, the cage is transferred to permanent place, prepare provisions and move the rabbits into their new home.

Despite the fact that rabbits are not particularly demanding animals, it is still better to rely on the opinion of experienced people in the manufacture and placement of the cage.

The main criterion for choosing a place to install a rabbitry is the absence drafts. In addition, in the summer it is better for animals to be in the shade, so you will have to build a shed or place cages in a barn.

We must not forget that when breeding rabbits, you will have to resettle the young animals, keep pregnant females and males separately, etc., so you won’t be able to get by with just one cage. It is better to always have free space at hand, and the cages themselves should have walking areas.

Listen to the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, and you won’t have to correct your own mistakes and miscalculations.

Floor The rabbitry is best made from mesh or slats laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other. When using the cage outdoors, they also install a lower, folding floor tier made of boards.

The roof The cages installed in the room are made of the same material as the walls. Outdoors, the rabbitry is covered with waterproof roofing material. It is better not to use tin for this.

On the street, houses for animals are located on supports height from 0.5 to 1 m. It is best if inside the cage there is also a house with a cutout in the form of a “hole”.

Cells are divided into several branches, providing a passage for animals from one part to another, as well as hinged lids for cleaning individual “rooms”.

The dimensions of the rabbitry in which it is planned to keep the males are sufficient for them to roam freely. We must remember that males who lead a sedentary lifestyle can become infertile.

For every 3-4 females make separate spacious cage.

Baby rabbits kept in the same room with a nursing rabbit. At the same time, they keep one cage free nearby, placing the mother with the smallest animals there for additional feeding.

The best material for a rabbitry is wood - boards, slats, plywood, laminated boards. They make the power frame and roof. Depending on the climate and installation location, cage walls are made of mesh, plywood, slats or boards. In progress Special attention removed by finishing the materials so that animals cannot be injured by splinters, sharp parts of the mesh or protruding edges of nails and screws.

Rabbit cage sizes

The dimensions of cages for breeding rabbits vary widely depending on the size of the animal, breed, purpose of the cage (for males, females with children, rabbits, etc.).

For nursing rabbits The dimensions of the cages must be at least 1.70 - 1.85 m in length, 1 m in width and 0.6 - 0.7 from the floor to the lid. The cages are placed at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from the ground on trestles or supports. Animals weighing over 5 kg require rabbit hutches 1.3-1.5 m long and up to 0.7 m wide. In this case, the height of the rear wall should be 0.4-0.45 m, and the front wall should be 10-15 cm higher.

Young animals rabbits are placed in group rabbitries, where they contain from 8 to 20 individuals. From 3 to 5 cubs who are under 3 months old are placed in individual cages. For older animals, no more than 2 - 3 animals per cage are placed. In this case, there should be at least 0.5 square meters per individual. m of area, and the height of the rabbitry should be more than 35 cm. In group cages, there should be at least 0.2 square meters per rabbit. m, which must be taken into account when making a rabbitry and placing animals.

Cage sizes for rabbits. Photo

An adult requires a room with a minimum size of 1×0.6 m and a height of 0.6 m, but it is better to increase these dimensions by 20 - 30%.

The cages are placed in one or two tiers (the so-called shed). Depending on the size of the animals, the width of the shad is made no more than 2 m, and the depth - up to 1 m, placing the cages at a height of about half a meter.

For breeding, a double rabbitry is used with a queen cell - a removable feed compartment for keeping animals up to 1 month. The cage is divided into compartments by a wooden partition with a 17x20 cm hole.

The main thing is that animals in captivity feel comfortable, so it is recommended to follow all the advice on their placement and maintenance.

Cage designs for rabbits

A two-tier portable rabbitry makes it easier to care for and feed rabbits. It is enough from time to time to move the structure to a place with thick grass - and the animals are provided with food and a clean place to walk.

Photo of the cage for decorative rabbits

A wooden structure, on the roof of which there is a low box with a moisture-proof bottom, will allow you to grow seedlings or greens on the roof of the rabbitry. This solution is not only highly practical, but also looks impressive on the site.

Rabbit cage. Photo

A “two-room” house for animals with a common feeding area makes it easier to care for animals and allows you to increase the space intended for their walking.

Large cage for rabbits. Photo

Designs of cages for rabbits, in which animals have access to walk on the ground, are beneficial not only from the point of view of keeping the animals, but also from the economic side. If the cell volume is sufficiently large, its production does not require large material costs.

A triangular hut cage with an aviary for walking is easy to make. During the day, such a structure is placed in a place with thick grass, and at night the cage is removed to a stationary elevation.

The spacious rabbitry, designed for two places, has a presentable appearance thanks to its spacious design, flexible roof and light colors. Blacks complete the picture metal elements door hinges and valves.

Big summer house for breeding rabbits allows you to keep up to ten individuals. The high door of the structure allows you to enter inside for feeding, cleaning and examining the animals.

A cage of increased depth, divided into two rooms, allows you to keep several individuals in each half. An enlarged courtyard provides comfort while walking and feeding animals. The contrasting coloring and copper fittings of the cage add elegance and presentability to it.

Cage for decorative rabbits. Photo

Rabbit cages installed at a height are often built in the same building as an enclosure. Common roof allows you to save material during the construction of a cage for rabbits and provides comfortable and spacious housing for animals.

A rectangular rabbitry with a pitched roof is very easy to manufacture and provides all the amenities for animals and their care. A simple cell for rabbits can be made from wooden blocks and slats, boards and wooden lining, and cover the roof with slate or soft roofing.

DIY Zolotukhin cells

Cages designed by a Russian rabbit breeder Zolotukhina have gained immense popularity due to their simplicity, low cost and ease of caring for animals.

The advantages of this type of cells include:

• sloped slate or plywood floor with mesh near the back wall;
• three-tier structure of six cells. Shifting the cells to the width of the grid in the floor makes cleaning easier;
• the possibility of arranging a queen cell in a regular cage;
• a specially designed feeder that does not require opening the door when dispensing food;
• low cost.

Improvements adopted by an experienced rabbit breeder-innovator bring the keeping of rabbits closer to the conditions in which they find themselves in their natural habitat.

Design Features

To make a cage for Zolotukhin rabbits, you can use wooden boards and slats, slate sheets, tin, polycarbonate panels, metal mesh.

The frame of the structure and partitions are made of wood, and the floor and roof are made of flat slate. The doors and a small part of the floor at the back wall are covered with mesh. The wooden structural elements are sheathed with tin to prevent rabbits from chewing them.

Rabbit cage size:

• cage width - 2000 mm;
• height of the three-tier structure - 1500 mm;
• depth - from 700 to 800 mm;
• doors - 400×400 mm;
• floor mesh width - 150-200 mm;
• the difference in the level of the front and rear parts of the floor is from 50 to 70 mm.

Drawings of Zolotukhin cells. Photo

Each of the three levels consists of two cages, separated by two board partitions, between which hay is stored. The floor, also known as the roof for the lower tier, is made of slate. The back part of the floor up to a width of 200 mm is made of mesh. Each upper cell is extended by the same amount relative to the lower one so that feces are removed onto the floor or ground. The back wall is made of polycarbonate and installed in an inclined manner.

Exact dimensions for making cages are not needed; the diagram given by the rabbit breeder is sufficient. This structure is a structure with a queen cell, so for the usual keeping of rabbits, the wall with the opening will need to be replaced with a solid wooden panel.

The queen cell door is not made of mesh, since the nest requires shade and shelter from drafts. To prevent the young animals from falling out when cleaning or feeding, a board 10 centimeters wide is nailed to the front of the shelter.

The design with a fenced-off queen cell makes it easy to expand the space for growing rabbits. To do this, just remove the board partition.

IN winter time Zolotukhin puts him in the cage queen cell-burrow. He is wooden box with increased rear wall height. This allows you to create the necessary expansion in the depths of the rabbit hole. The hole in the queen cell is cut out so that there is no threshold between the box and the floor of the cage.

Dimensions of the winter queen cell of Zolotukhin cage for rabbits:

• upper and lower parts - from 300×300 to 400×400 mm;
• front wall - 160 mm;
• rear wall - 260 mm;
• opening height - 150 mm.

The feeder is a long tray that takes up 2/3 of the length of the cage. Its front wall is twice as large as the back wall, and the bottom slopes into the cage at an angle of up to 35?. The feeder is mounted on a rod hinge, which allows you to install the tray in the door. This eliminates the need to open the cage when feeding and makes it easier to clean the feeder from leftover food.

DIY rabbit cages. Video

As you can see, making a rabbit cage with your own hands is quite simple. At the same time, it is important to ensure the comfort and safety of pets, as well as to provide for ease of feeding and cleaning.

Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.

What materials can it be made from?

When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, any available means are suitable for constructing a simple structure that can protect animals from unfavorable external factors.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage

Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. You should not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in winter a wooden rabbitry will be warm, and in summer it will not be too hot.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so wooden elements The interior decoration of the cells is quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated with protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal is a more durable material for construction compared to wood. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being chewed through. But the roof and external walls It is not recommended to make cages from metal, since they can become very hot in the sun and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can be an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal elements structures that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from shrapnel, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.

Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be a mesh, which should have medium or small cells and be strong enough.

Slate

Most practical material Slate is used to make a roof in a rabbit hutch. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.

Available materials

Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the optimal parameters will be the following dimensions:

• Length - 120–150 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.

The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If the floor covering is made continuous, then it will have to be cleaned too often.

To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:

• Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
• Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
• Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
• Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
• Fittings - door hinges and latches;
• Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

• Hand saw or grinder;
• Metal scissors or wire cutters;
• A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
• Tape measure, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
2. The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
3. The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
4. Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. The animal’s comfort is also ensured by the structure two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.

The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. Ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:

• Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
• Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
• Wooden slats;
• Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
• Self-tapping screws or nails;
• Door fittings.

Tools for work:

• Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Screwdriver or hammer;
• Nippers or metal scissors;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. From chipboard or wooden shield cut out a base measuring 90x60 cm.
2. On wooden base lay a metal shield of similar dimensions.
3. Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
5. The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. Optimal size for the door - 30x30 cm.
6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
7. The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. Paint cell surfaces paint and varnish materials It’s not worth it, as rodents can become poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.

Video: DIY two-story rabbit cage

Design Features

All rabbit cages are designed using general principles, but different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm simultaneously contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds.

Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents

Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

• Length - 120–170 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:

• Length - 70–90 cm;
• Width - 35–55 cm;
• Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

• Length - 85–100 cm;
• Width - 70–80 cm;
• Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cells

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous keeping of a large number of rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.

Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

• Capacity;
• The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
• It is convenient to care for animals;
• Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the purpose

If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.

Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

• Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
• The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
• A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding the mother;
• The cage for young animals corresponds standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves different kinds cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.

In regions with a temperate climate without sharp temperature changes, it is possible to keep rabbits year-round in identical portable structures, which, when the first cold weather sets in, are transferred to closed room. IN summer period such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity well, so in the open air a place should be chosen that is remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct Sun rays can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for animals and give them more heat. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.

Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Feeder options for rabbit cages

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.

Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.

The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. Best options are considered sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.

How to crate train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If the rabbit cage is not constructed correctly and has sharp internal corners, small space or is in a noisy environment, animals will experience stress, which will adversely affect their health and reproductive function.

Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business V rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and advice from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to construct correct cell, which is ideal for his rabbits.

The “dietary and easily digestible meat” of rabbit leaves no one indifferent, which is why many farmers breed these animals. An indispensable “assistant” in such a matter will be a multifunctional cage for rabbits, which they can build on their own. There are many options for creating such a design, but it is worth giving preference to the best.

Choosing a suitable location for a rabbitry

Before the construction project begins, the location for the building is determined. The nursery is located on the street or in a utility room.

In the first case, a suitable area is selected, protected from:

• dampness;
• draft;
• exposure to direct sunlight.

The health of animals, as well as the quality characteristics of meat and fur, depend on proper housing conditions. Therefore, they also think about the number of cages for rabbits and the sizes of sections. Select a cozy area for the queen cell.

Air humidity in the rabbitry should not exceed 75%. Therefore, the building is installed away from ponds or other sources of water.

Types and dimensions of rabbit hutches

For the full-fledged rearing of individuals, an entire “residential complex” is created. It can consist of several blocks, which are formed into 2-3 tiers to save space.

• pregnant rabbits;
• young animals;
• males;
• adults;
• females with offspring.

Calculation of area for each individual rabbit. Adults are allocated up to 0.7 m² of space, and cubs - only 0.25 m².

The size of the cage for rabbits is determined taking into account the needs and developmental characteristics of the animals. The table below provides recommendations for the design of buildings when maintaining different types animals.

It is worth considering that females with cubs are sent to a nest-nursery, which differs:

• high-quality thermal insulation (layer of foam or hay);
• special purity;
• high sound insulation (double walls);
• sufficient space.

It is recommended to keep adult rabbits in block structures, divided into 2-3 compartments. A mesh is usually used as a partition. As the offspring grow older, it is removed, impoverishing the sections among themselves.

Each rabbit cage should be equipped with space for:

• eating;
• walks.

The optimal dimensions of each compartment are 30x60x50 cm. The space is zoned using plywood partitions. In each of them holes are formed for the free movement of animals. Maximum height from the floor of the openings made should not exceed 15-20 cm. For young animals, a cage is built, the bottom of which is presented in the form of solid plywood. Mesh or slatted surfaces in most cases contribute to the development of pododermatitis.

When breeding giant rabbits, their non-standard weight is taken into account. For this reason, the floor of the structure is additionally reinforced with a thick galvanized mesh or lathing made of bars.

What materials are rabbit cages made of?

The farmer’s main task when constructing such structures is to create conditions as close as possible to the natural habitat of rabbits. Based on this, only natural materials are chosen for construction. High quality wooden beams would be an ideal option for the frame and supports.

When constructing walls, the following are often used:

• boards;
• thick plywood;
• wooden slats;
• galvanized mesh.

Breeders do not recommend using chipboard, since the material is highly hygroscopic. As a result, the structure will begin to quickly absorb moisture, which will lead to swelling and destruction of the cell.

In accordance with sanitary standards, the wood must be sanded, sanded, and then treated with antiseptic agents. Next we start designing.

As a standard, a rabbitry consists of several parts:

• main frame;
• walls;
• ceiling;
• roofs;
• supports

Enclosures that are installed outdoors must be equipped with a powerful roof. It is not recommended to make it from metal, since when exposed to the sun the surface will overheat very much.

This will lead to heat stroke in the animals. Therefore, the upper part of a homemade rabbit cage is covered with slate or ondulin. Depending on the weather conditions form flooring from mineral or glass wool. Be sure to make doors, having prepared a sufficient number of fittings: awnings and latches.

Additional materials: insulation, sanding and plaster, as well as solid wire mesh. Slats, corners, screws and nails are used as fastenings.

Rabbit cage from professional breeders

Construction of a nursery begins with choosing a suitable drawing and calculating the quantity necessary materials. Then they begin to make a frame from wooden beams. The resulting base is coated with primer paint. They lay the floor, attach walls and partitions, and install the roof. A separate queen cell is set up and doors are installed. When the rabbit cage is ready, feeders and drinkers of various shapes are placed inside the building.

In most cases they are presented as:

• gutters
• bunkers;
• cups;
• ceramic bowls;
• nursery feeders.

In the production of these parts, plastic, tin, plexiglass or wood are used. It is necessary to understand that these animals are insatiable rodents. Therefore, when constructing cages for rabbits with your own hands, the walls of the building are in most cases lined with sheets of tin.

Recommendations for slatted floors. The cross-section of the slats should not exceed 2.5×3 cm. Place them opposite each other at a distance of 1.5 cm, but no more. Otherwise, the pets’ limbs will fall into the holes, which will lead to injury to the animals.

Rabbit breed	Dimensions of individuals		Queen cell dimensions, cm
	Length, cm	Weight, kg	Length	Height	Depth	Manhole (diameter)
Giant	75	10-12	95-100	80-85	50	20
Average	55-60	until 6	70-80	60	40	18
Mini	40-45	2-3	60-65	40-50	35	15
Dwarf	30-35	0,6-1,75	40-45	25-30	20-25	10

Having familiarized yourself with the general idea of ​​​​building a nursery, it is worth considering in detail how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands. Famous manufacturers offer multifunctional and practical designs for breeding these cute animals.

Zolotukhin's cage - more than just comfort

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin developed an original building plan for animals. Thanks to the successful design of the structure, the animals feel as protected as possible, and the farmer cleans their home much less often.

The main features of the Zolotukhin rabbit cage are:

• formation of a 2-3-tier nursery;
• ensuring the desired slope of the rabbit cage;
• replacing the mesh floor with slate or plywood;
• mobile/mobile feeder;
• lack of a permanent nesting site.

Traditionally, Zolotukhin’s cage is designed for 6 adults. However, you can increase or decrease the number of sections.

The floor of all compartments is made at a slope of 20-30˚ (6-8 cm), so that animal feces spontaneously roll into the far part of the structure.
A grate (15-20 cm wide) is attached along the entire length of the back wall, through which the animals’ waste will come out. Each subsequent floor is mounted with a shift, exactly the width of the built-in grid. Such a rabbitry arrangement is very practical, since, as has been noted, pets urinate precisely at the back wall of their home.

The feeder in such buildings is presented in the form of a bucket, which is attached with screws to the door frame of the cage. The food device rotates freely around its axis, like a swing. This allows you to clean it without any problems.

In this design there is no queen cell. However, the nest is made in a shaded corner of the building, separated by a board ½ the height of the rabbit cage.
A sufficient amount of hay is placed there, from which the female independently forms a nest. Once babies reach one month of age, the separating sheet and space are removed.

Scheme and nuances of cell construction

Nikolai Ivanovich considered it necessary to install a sennik between the cells. The rabbit breeder divided each tier with a device made of wooden slats. The academician connected the lower ends of the planks, and left a distance of 20-30 cm in the upper part. The resulting triangular block will take up to 40 cm in length. When constructing a unique cage, Nikolai Zolotukhin suggests using ordinary drawings.

A three-tier rabbitry with 6 compartments can have the following exact dimensions:

• height - 132 cm;
• length - 248 cm;
• depth and width of compartments - 60 cm;
• height of the stand legs - 40 cm;
• edging or connecting strips - 4 cm.

The height of each tier is different. The blocks on the first floor are 35 cm high, on the second - 49 cm, and on the third - 40 cm.

It is not always necessary to install a net at the back wall of a rabbit cage. It is enough to simply make a gap of 2 cm on the back side, and also raise the floor of the structure by 8 cm. Wood block laid on a frame, and then laid a floor of plywood or slate. The result will be a hole through which feces will come out. Since the 2 parts of the structure are installed with the back wall facing each other, a sewer gutter is installed between them at the bottom. At the same time, it is made at a slight slope.

The frame is made of 4 beams. For strength, they are fastened with transverse wooden

Multifunctional cage for rabbits Mikhailov

The main feature of the Mikhailov rabbitry is the technology of automatic heating of drinkers and queen cells. For the most part, such designs are intended for ornamental cultivation pets

The building includes:

• 4 main compartments;
• 2 compartments for water;
• cone-shaped outlet for feces;
• 2 side feeders.

Often a cage for rabbits is made in 2 tiers. However, such a project is quite labor-intensive and expensive.

Depending on the number of floors of the nursery, the dimensions of the device can be as follows:

• height - 120 or 70 cm;
• width 240 cm;
• waste collection cone - 100 cm;
• rack supports - 140 cm.

The optimal height of the cage does not exceed 70 cm. The width of the compartment for an adult is 60 cm, including a place for drinking.

If necessary, a queen cell with dimensions of 35x40 cm is mounted to the rear wall of the cage. The feeders are made trapezoidal and attached to the side walls of the structure. The floor is assembled from slats, laying each of them at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other. A chute for removing feces is formed from plywood or mesh at an angle of 45˚. A container for collecting manure is screwed to the opening of the waste disposal unit.

Must be installed ventilation pipe which is covered with a visor. This ensures proper air circulation in the cage.

Creating a mini-farm with your own hands is fraught with some difficulties. The ventilation outlet and heating system require precise calculations. However, Mikhailov proved that when the outside temperature drops to +5˚C, rabbits need warm water. This feeding technique helped the breeder preserve up to 95% of the young, as well as increase the percentage of fertilization of females in the winter.

When it comes to installing several tiers, 2 boards with a slope of 30˚ are installed on each floor. They serve as both a roof and a drain for removing feces.

Rabbit cage according to Tsvetkov's method

A distinctive feature of these rabbit cages are multiple stool collectors as well as gravity feeders. The containers are attached to the side wall of the structure. In addition, the design includes mounted queen cells, which are also fixed to the facade. The frame of the building is made with your own hands from coniferous timber.

Fixed at an angle of 30-45˚. The lower part of the tank is covered with a lid in which 2 holes are made. Thanks to these design features, rabbits will not be able to wash their paws in drinking water.

A cone-shaped gutter is assembled from galvanized steel (0.5 mm), carefully connecting the joints. These devices are placed close to and parallel to the wall. The upper part of the structure is attached to the cage itself. Plastic buckets with lids are mounted to the openings of waste bins. Latch brackets are used as fasteners. To protect rabbits from pododermatitis, the mesh floor is covered with boards. When breeding young animals, a room is provided for walking the kids. Nesting areas must be insulated with another sheet of plywood or polystyrene foam.

Modular cage according to the Komov-Kuzmin project

Anyone can make such a rabbitry. It features bottle-style vacuum drinkers as well as bi-fold doors on the manger. All the walls of the shad are made blank, which guarantees a stable microclimate inside the building all year round. The facade of the building is made of mesh. Feed containers are mounted on a monorail in the central part of the nursery. Closer to the edge, an inverted bottle and a water tank are secured with ropes. A hay trough is installed in the central zone.

Optimal parameters of a modular cage for rabbits:

• compartment height - 44 cm;
• depth - 80 cm;
• width - 65 cm;
• sennik - 20 cm.

The rear walls are equipped with hatches for cleaning pallets. These openings also provide ventilation in the summer.

Such homemade cages for rabbits are usually used as queen cells. The farmer has to clean such structures himself, using special devices.

Budget option - all-wire cage for rabbits

Among the advantages of such homemade rabbit hutches are their special strength, a light weight and compactness. Such nurseries are installed under a canopy, using them only in the warm season. In winter, the structure is brought into a heated room.

To manufacture the proposed economical version of the cage, galvanized mesh is chosen:

• coarse mesh (25 or 50 mm) is used for the construction of ceilings and walls;
• fine mesh (15 or 20 mm) - for the floor.

Draw a diagram of the nursery on a piece of paper. All elements of the support frame, the placement of feeders/drinkers, and the location of doors are prescribed. Indicate the connection points of fasteners. The dimensions of the structure are indicated with the calculation of space for young animals - 0.12 m²/individual, adult rabbits - 0.17 m²/individual.

Take into account the standard parameters of the cell:

• height - 40-50 cm;
• length - 130 cm;
• depth - 80 cm.

The frame is erected from hardwood timber. The height of the legs is made optimal: 50-70 cm. Cut from solid wire required sizes sheets. Fastening brackets are made from wire. Connect the main parts of the structure. The floor must be reinforced wooden slats, nailing the bars in increments of 30-40 cm. If necessary, install walls made of mesh or plywood. Cut out doorways at the front of the nursery. The doors are fixed on metal rings. For the roof they use slate, and sometimes metal profiles.

The space reserved for the rabbit is equipped with an additional sheet of plywood. They spread hay on it. This nesting zone is separated by another partition.

Step-by-step instructions for a mesh cage for rabbits

The structure is assembled from wooden beams and metal mesh. It is built in 2 tiers. It has 3-4 separate chambers for adults. To assemble this nursery model, the breeder does not require any special professional skills.

You just need to be creative and follow the detailed instructions for the project:

• a base frame (1×2 m) is made from 4 beams;
  
• nail 3 transverse slats (90-100 cm long) at a distance of 65 cm from each other as dividing elements;
  
• attach a mesh to the frame (cells 12.5×50 mm, thickness 2 mm);
  
  
• the sharp edge of the mesh is hammered in so that the rabbits do not get hurt;
  
• legs 55 cm high are mounted at the corners of the structure;
  
  
• strengthen the supports by fixing transverse bars around the entire perimeter at a height of 20 cm from the floor;
  
  
• do internal partitions frame made of slats 3x3 cm (the length of one frame is 90-100 cm and the width is 65 cm);
  
  
• the sections are covered with wire (thickness 0.8 mm, cells 25×25 mm);
  
• feeders are fixed on each side of the frame using self-tapping screws;
  
• the entire structure is covered with galvanized mesh 50×50 mm, 1.5 mm thick;
  
• the back and side walls are covered with plywood or boards;
  
• the back wall is made with a gap of 2 cm to remove feces;
  
• doors are made from slats: they are fastened with corners and sheathed with wire;
  
  
  
• set the hinges to 40, screw on the handles;
  
• holes for drinking bowls are drilled in each section;
  
• stretch the water supply tube at a height of 25 cm.
  
  

At the final stage, the roof is mounted at a slight angle. A batten is fixed along one side of the frame to raise the roof structure.
This will ensure water drains during bad weather. Then up to 8 slats are nailed across the building.

The gutter for drainage is made from tin.
The second tier is constructed according to the same principle. A distance of 40-50 cm is left between floors, separated by a sheet of plywood and reinforced with transverse planks. The two blocks of the structure are secured so that they stand securely.

The wood must be treated with an antiseptic to protect the building from rotting and all kinds of fungal organisms. Breeders advise choosing less concentrated products.

We build production sheds for rabbits with our own hands

The massive structure is a large frame with a canopy. The nursery is divided into dozens of sections. The structure is erected in 2-3 tiers, which allows the manufacturer to significantly save space.

The frame is made of 3 types of material:

• wooden beam;
• metal supports;
• polycarbonate pipes.

The first floor is installed at a height of 70 cm from the ground. Thus, dampness does not penetrate into the rabbits’ home, and heat is retained for a long time. Sections are mounted in 2 ways: in a row or in a cascade method. The material for the floor is a metal mesh with fine divisions.

Standard sizes of sheds for rabbits are calculated depending on the number and dimensions of one cage. Each individual cell can be 50 cm high, 100 cm long and 90 cm deep.

As already noted, an exact drawing of the structure must be depicted on paper. Prepare 6 wooden beams of 50 cm each (30×30 mm). Take 4 slats 90 cm long and the same number of meter slats.

After this they begin to implement step by step instructions shed structures for rabbits:

• assemble the frame from prepared wooden planks according to the level;
• the bottom of the structure is made from slats (with a cross-section of 25×20 mm and a length of 90 cm) in increments of 1.5 cm;
• stuff the mesh onto a wooden frame;
• cut rectangular sheets (depending on the number of sections) from galvanized wire (25x25 mm) with dimensions of 90x50 cm and 50x100 cm;
• fastened at right angles wooden planks to form frames, and cover them with wire;
• the front panel, which acts as a door, is made 5 mm smaller than the main opening;
• the constructed sections are connected with metal plates into one whole;
• Sheets of slate or polycarbonate are mounted on top of each tier, which should protrude 10-15 cm from the back and front of the sections.

The upper part of the rabbit cage is made at an angle of 30˚. Therefore, the back wall is taken 10-15 cm lower than the front. This feature will ensure spontaneous disposal of feces.

Shed assembly

The tiers are stacked on top of each other using beam legs attached with self-tapping screws. A distance of 50-70 cm is left between the horizontal blocks for good air ventilation. At the base of the rabbit shed, a trench is formed on the back side to collect waste.
It is usually concreted and also made on a slope. As a result, feces can be washed away using running water.

Drinkers and feeders are attached to the door with hooks or clamps. Sometimes containers with built-in rollers are used. But to do this you will need to cut a hole in the bottom of the door.

Cage for rabbits with a special enclosure for walking

Designs of this type are suitable not only for young animals, but also for raising adults. The building consists of 2 compartments, partitioned with a sheet of plywood. The depth of the sections varies from 60 to 65 cm. In each of them a square or round hole. Such structural features allow rabbits to move freely around their nursery.

When making an aviary, the following is used:

• wooden frames;
• wire mesh sheets;
• door hinges;
• slate or boards for building a roof.

The base of the enclosure frame is reinforced with additional bars. The resulting foundation is dug into the ground 3-5 cm.

The optimal dimensions of the walking area are 200x100x60 cm. Several tricks for assembling the structure will help increase the space. The completed cages are installed above the enclosure. In this case, the beams-legs are selected from the most durable material. They can also be reinforced with additional strips or slanting slats. A ladder is attached to the adjacent wall of the structure so that the animals can safely descend into a kind of “entertainment area.”

Cleaning such an enclosure is quite difficult. Therefore, such structures are made mobile so that their location can be periodically changed.

Indispensable elements of the “interior” of a rabbit cage

Drinkers and feeders are always installed on the façade of the nursery. Farmers often use automatic water supply systems. They consist of a reservoir with liquid, placed outside the cell, and a container attached to it, which is located inside the structure.

Other types of drinkers are also successfully used:

The options for cages for rabbits proposed above are considered the most comfortable for both breeders and animals. However, for this it is necessary to properly care for the structures, as well as the animals.

Step-by-step video instructions for building a rabbit cage