Impeccable tile installation is a source of pride for the owners. Laying tiles with your own hands: technology for tiling work Laying tiles with your own hands step by step

When laying tiles, control two points: the parallel arrangement of the rows (their curvature along the perimeter of the floor is unacceptable) and the overall smoothness of the floor - this means that each tiled element will be located in the same plane as the others. Check this with a level.

Calculation of required materials

Let's calculate the amount of materials required using a standard bath as an example. The room has a rectangular configuration, its area is 2.5x4 meters, and the ceilings reach a height of 2.9 meters.

A bathtub will be installed in this room, the length of which is 1.9 meters, height - 80 cm, width 90 cm.

Note that you can calculate the number of tiles required for finishing using a special calculator. But keep in mind that you can calculate it manually various options, but only approximate calculations are possible with a calculator.

If you wish, you can complicate the task and calculate the density of the seams, but this is pointless. The final result will take into account the 10-15% break that will occur when cutting and delivering the material.

The total area of ​​the walls is 37.7 square meters. meters. But it should be taken into account that the place under the font will be masked by small walls, so the area of ​​two walls located on the sides is taken into account. The total area will be 39.5 square meters. m. You should also take into account the area under the bathroom, which is hidden behind the walls. The area will be 7.9 square meters.

To decorate the walls, 0.25x0.4 tiles, 8 pcs each, will be used. in one package. Considering the total area of ​​the wall surfaces, approximately 50 packs will be required for finishing, but a reserve of 1 pack is required. There are 51 packs in total. For the floor you need 30x30 cm tiles, 10 units per pack. In total you will need 9 packs.

Read about what kind exists, what it is used for, how it is attached to the walls - all the details of mesh plaster.

You can learn more about the features of applying bark beetle plaster in the article.

The glue consumption depends on the density of the adhesive layer and the size of the spatula used; the angle of inclination and the degree of pressure during the application of the mixture are also important. Approximate consumption primer mixture from 100 to 250 ml per 1 sq. meter. The required volume of grout can be found out by taking into account the dimensions of the room, the area of ​​the wall surfaces and the floor; in total you will need 13.28 kg of grout mixture.

The floor is leveled by pouring screed with self-leveling properties with a density of 10 mm. Taking into account the area of ​​the room, you will need 6 packages of 25 kg each.

In this example, budget tiles were used; its price is a key factor in the final cost of repair work. When using tiles with a pattern or creating diagonal masonry, repairs will cost more.

IN budget option repair costs will be approximately 22 thousand rubles. By purchasing materials for this amount, you can beautifully decorate the interior of your bathroom.

Cost of work

How much does it cost to lay tiles in a bathroom per 1 sq. meter? Prices for the services of third-party craftsmen and prices in construction companies depend on the region of residence. The average cost in Russia is from 800 to 1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m when laying regular tiles.

Porcelain tiles are laid at a price of 800-1400 rubles per 1 square meter, but the most expensive are works on marble tiles: laying 1 m2 of such material costs 1400-2000 rubles.

Video

Ceramic tiles are one of the most successful and inexpensive materials for finishing walls and floors in the bathroom. You can do it yourself, and the detailed step-by-step instructions and video in this article with tips and rules for laying tiles in the bathroom on drywall yourself will help you cope with this task without errors:

Nowadays the construction market offers a huge number of various materials for interior decoration. Among this variety, one of the most common materials is ceramic tiles.

Despite the fact that this finishing material has been known since ancient times, it not only has not lost its relevance, but, on the contrary, due to the constant improvement of technology, the characteristics of tiles are becoming increasingly higher. And if earlier ceramic tiles were mostly used in rooms such as the kitchen and bathroom, now, thanks to the exquisite design and modern installation technologies, this material is well suited for decorating living rooms and bedrooms.

Ceramic tiles are a building material made from clay and sand. Techniques for the production of tiles are being improved and modern tiles are a material for finishing premises with high performance characteristics. In terms of its strength characteristics, the tile is indeed very unique - as tests have shown, with a correctly performed installation process, the surface of the tile can withstand a load of up to 30 thousand tons per square meter.

Another advantage of tiles is that they are very easy to clean from dirt, which makes them convenient to use in various conditions.

Ceramic tiles are not subject to fire, are not toxic when exposed to heat and do not collapse in case of contact with various chemicals. Also, ceramic tiles are a fairly rigid material and do not deform even under very high loads. In addition, tiles do not conduct electric current, which makes them a safe material for use in any room. This finishing material is very durable because it does not lose its original appearance under the influence of moisture, frost or sun rays.

Due to their hygiene, tiles are excellent for use in the bathroom, kitchen, etc.

One of the disadvantages of this material is that it conducts heat well, and therefore feels quite cold when in contact with the body. Therefore, it is not very comfortable to walk on a tiled floor barefoot, which is why a floor heating system is often installed underneath it.

In order to choose ceramic tiles for interior cladding, you need to know its main differences and characteristics. When choosing a tile, many people pay main attention to its texture and pattern; they are not interested in other nuances and characteristics. Right choice Any finishing material primarily depends on the conditions of its use, purpose and the specific room where it will be used. Basic information about a particular tile can usually be obtained by reading its characteristics and looking at the special symbols on its packaging.

For example, if the packaging shows a foot on a black background, this indicates that this is a floor tile. Wall tiles are indicated by a hand pattern, high wear resistance is indicated by a foot pattern on a shaded background, frost resistance is indicated by a snowflake drawn on the packaging. If some icon is drawn more than once, then this indicates more high level designated property.

Usually, the information on the packaging is enough to choose the right tile if the buyer has a good understanding of the conditions of its use. For example, when choosing a coating for a bathroom, you need to take into account that the walls and floor in the bathroom are in contact with various chemical compounds (cosmetics, hygiene products, etc.), so for the bathroom you should use a type of tile with high acid resistance, low porosity and resistance to chemical bases. Such qualities are especially important when lining a pool, where the material is constantly in contact with various chemicals. Such characteristics are indicated on the packaging with the designation “AA”. If the properties of resistance to chemical influences are less, then the mark “A” is used, then the designations go in descending order - “B”, “C”, “D”.

For wall tiles in the kitchen, a high level of resistance to chemical compositions, but wear resistance properties in this case are not paramount. But when it comes to kitchen floor tiles, here you should choose a material with high wear resistance and low porosity. As a rule, tiles of wear resistance class 3 are purchased for the kitchen. When choosing a material for the floor in a corridor or lobby, you should give preference to tiles with a 4th or 5th class of wear resistance.

How to calculate the amount of tiles and adhesive

Before going to a hardware store and buying tiles, you need to calculate the required quantity and decide how much glue you will need to purchase.

There is no universal formula suitable for all cases of tile laying work. Here everything depends on the size and additional features of the room, on the method of laying the covering and on the size of the selected tile. In order to have enough tiles, experts advise purchasing 5-10% more than with the initial calculation, because various nuances such as adjusting the pattern or diagonal laying method may require additional consumption of material.

As an example, let's look at how to calculate the number of tiles for a bathroom with dimensions of 1.5 x 1.7 x 2.7. To make it easier to consider the essence of the calculation, let’s assume that there are no protrusions or niches in the bathroom. As for the dimensions of the material, we will focus on standard dimensions - that is, we will use floor tiles 33.3 x 33.3 cm, that is, the most common. There are several in various ways laying tiles, let's take a closer look at each of them:

Method one

If we need to work with a rectangular or square formula, then first of all we need to determine its area. To do this, we need to measure the length and width of the room and multiply these indicators. If the room is complex in shape and does not resemble a rectangle in any way, then it is worth drawing up a plan of the room on paper, where the floor surface should be divided into several parts so that each of them is close to a rectangular shape and then separately calculate the area of ​​each part and add up the results.

Method two

This method is used when you have to work with complex masonry. If you need to do laying in a staggered or diagonal manner, then first of all you should draw an exact floor plan of the room. It is more convenient to draw up such a plan on graph paper or on square paper. Using a ruler and pencil, draw a floor plan to a scale that will allow you to fit the entire floor surface onto the paper. To begin with, place whole tiles on the plan, and only after that start calculating the trimmed elements.

So, it turns out that if we have a bathroom in front of us that is 1.5 meters wide and 1.7 meters long, then we need to divide the width of the floor by the tile side. Since we chose a tile with sides of 33 cm, the result we get is 4.54 - this is the number of tiles in the row in width. We round this figure to 5 pieces.

We need to calculate how many such rows are required, for this 170 cm needs to be divided by 33 cm, the result is 5.15 rows, we round this result up and get 6 rows. Then we multiply 5 tiles of one row by the number of rows and get that for the entire floor in the bathroom we will need 30 pieces. But, as already mentioned, when purchasing it is worth adding another ten percent of this amount, that is, in this case you need to purchase 33 ceramic tiles.

Let's look at how to calculate the amount of material for wall cladding. To make this easier, it is better to calculate the required number of tiles for each wall. We take the wall height of 2.7 m and divide by 30 cm (since we are working with standard wall tiles with dimensions of 20x30 cm), we get that we will have 9 tiles in one row in height. Now we take the width of the surface 150 cm and divide by 20 (the width of the tile), it turns out 7.5 - round up to 8 - this is the number of tiles in the row in width. Now we multiply these two results and it turns out that we will need 72 pieces of tiles for a wall 150 cm wide. We also calculate the material consumption for the remaining walls of the bathroom in the same way.

Now let's talk about how to calculate glue consumption. There are many nuances here, and one of the main ones is how smooth the surface of the base is on which the tile will be glued. If this surface is fairly flat, with height differences of about 3 mm, then the glue consumption will not be large. In this case, the glue will be applied in a layer of up to 5 mm and its function will only be to adhere the base and the tile to each other.

But if there are strong unevenness on the surface, then the glue will also perform a leveling role. Construction stores sell special adhesives designed for such work. With the help of such compositions it is possible to level out height differences of up to 30 mm.

In order to avoid overuse of glue, you need to choose the composition that is intended for application to a specific base. Usually on the packaging of the glue there is information about what surfaces it is intended for.

In addition to the base, the characteristics of the tile also greatly influence the adhesive consumption. The larger the tile, the thicker the layer of adhesive that needs to be applied to it. The porosity of the material also affects the consumption of glue - for highly porous structures, approximately 1.5-2 times more adhesive composition is required.

As already mentioned, ceramic tiles differ not only in size and design, but also in characteristics that depend on their production method. Ceramic tiles can be divided into several main types.

This type of tile is considered the most common. In terms of its composition, this material is a mixture of bowl, minerals and clay, which goes through a firing process and is covered with glaze. It is the glaze that makes it possible to make a product with any texture, texture, color or ornament. The glaze can be either matte or glossy.

Porcelain tiles

This definition is general for a group of materials that have a very low (approaching zero) level of water absorption and a high level of frost resistance. The composition of the raw materials for the production of such tiles is very similar to the raw materials from which porcelain is made, although the products themselves are more reminiscent of stone in appearance. Porcelain stoneware is produced by dry pressing and single firing. Such tiles are pressed under higher pressure and fired at higher temperature, in comparison with ceramic tiles.

The result is a vitrified sintered material with high performance characteristics. Porcelain stoneware belongs to the group of materials with the highest resistance to abrasion and aggressive environments. Ordinary unglazed porcelain stoneware has a grainy granular structure throughout the entire depth of the product, just like natural stone. But at the same time, unlike stone, porcelain stoneware does not have such negative qualities as a tendency to form cracks or the presence of cavities or foreign inclusions.

Porcelain stoneware, in terms of resistance to temperature changes, is also superior to most types of natural stone, this is explained by its higher density and homogeneous structure. Unglazed porcelain tiles can have a relief, polished, semi-polished and unpolished surface. Polished material costs at least 30% more than unpolished material. Unglazed porcelain tiles are often used in rooms with a large flow of people.

Glazed porcelain tiles also have high performance characteristics, but at the same time have great variety in terms of design. Modern production technologies make it possible to create an appearance as close as possible to natural stone, with the same pattern or chipped texture. If desired, you can even find “antique” series, the products of which are specially given the effect of abrasions, which are formed after a long walk on the stone.

Clinker

Clinker is a glazed or unglazed tile with a compacted base, which is produced using the extrusion method. The clinker is fired at a very high temperature, due to which it obtains its unique performance properties, such as excellent resistance to wear and to cold temperatures. Also, clinker does not absorb water and is resistant to aggressive chemicals and easy to clean. The extrusion method makes it possible to give products complex geometric shape. As an example, tiles for lining a pool, sets of such products include various elements: steps, gutters, connecting elements, corners, etc.

That's what the tiles are called brick color, which is produced using the extrusion method. As a rule, such tiles are not glazed and have various natural colors of the terracotta range, that is, red, pink, brown and yellow shades. For natural color and her warm shades, such tiles are actively used by European architects. Cotto is one of the most ancient methods of producing tiles and we can say that this tile carries a certain charm of antiquity, due to which it is often used to create the interior of churches and museums.

Most often, Cotto is used as a floor covering indoors. When laying the tiles is finished, they are coated with special protective hydrophobic agents so that stains do not appear on the porous surface of the products.

Porcelain tiles

Such tiles are resistant to mechanical damage and are easy to clean from dirt. In order to obtain a variety of shades, various dyes are added to the raw material during the production process.
Such tiles are usually used for finishing floors that are actively used and require special resistance to frost and chemical compounds.

Low porosity tiles

These types of tiles are characterized by good strength and resistance to frost, making them excellent for finishing floors.

Highly porous tiles

During the manufacture of such tiles, special components are added to the raw materials, which reduce the weight of the tiles. This type of tile is less resistant to mechanical stress, which is why it is not recommended for use when finishing the floor.

This type of tile is made by pressing and covered with an opaque glaze. The products undergo double annealing, due to which they are characterized by good moisture resistance, strength and resistance to chemical influences. Typically, majolica is used for wall decoration.

Terral

Such tiles also undergo double annealing, but more expensive types of clay are used for their production. The tile turns out white, which makes it possible to apply an ornament or design directly to its surface and then cover it with just one layer of glass glaze.

Materials and tools

In order for the tile laying work to be completed to the highest possible quality, it is necessary to have high-quality tools that can significantly facilitate this process. We list the main equipment that will be needed for this.

• Rubber hammer. It is desirable that its weight is about 1 kg. This hammer will be needed to tap the tiles during the laying process in order to eliminate the presence of voids.
• Notched trowel. For tiles whose sides are larger than 30 cm, you need a trowel with 10 mm teeth; for tiles with smaller dimensions, a trowel with 4-5 mm teeth is used.
• Trowel-trowel.
  Shaulsky's ladle. This ladle is convenient when you need to quickly spread plaster or glue.
• A set of special plastic crosses. The thickness of such crosses is selected individually; as a rule, the larger the tile, the narrower the seams are made.
• Scraper. It will be needed to clean the screed from glue. In addition, it is convenient when dismantling old tiles.
• Carrying. There are cases when the socket is located far from the installation site, in which case it may be necessary to carry it with a tee. Carrying with two light bulbs may also be useful - with good lighting, all the unevenness of the installation can be seen.
• Construction knife.
• Construction markers and pencils.
• A brush or roller for applying primer.

We will also highlight an auxiliary tool that you also cannot do without:

• Squares (it is better to have two of them - small and large).
• Bubble level and tape measure.
• Cord release device. It works as follows - you mark two points on the wall and stretch a colored thread between these points, then pull it back a little and it, springing along the wall, leaves an even marking line.
• Laser or water level. There is a big difference in price between these tools, but there is practically no difference in speed. Therefore, if you are doing tile laying one-time, for example, doing renovations at home, then you do not have to purchase a laser, but if you are going to do this professionally, then you should think about buying a laser
• Aluminum rules. It is best to have two rules - 1.5 and 2.5 meters. They will be useful both for leveling the base and for checking the result.

Mixer

If you do not plan to constantly do masonry, then you can get by with a hammer drill and a whisk attachment, or even stir the composition by hand. But to perform work in large volumes at a professional level, you will need a mixer. Russian models of mixers are no worse in their characteristics than many foreign analogues, but their cost is an order of magnitude lower. Another advantage of the mixer is that it can also be used for drilling tiles. For this purpose, a special chuck with a drill is installed on the mixer.

A tile cutter is required to cut tiles. Conventionally, we can distinguish between professional and amateur manual tile cutters. Amateur models have the following disadvantages:

• The maximum width of tiles they can cut is 40 cm.
• When cutting thick tiles, the weak structure bends and cannot always be broken.
• The cutting wheel may have quite a lot of play (up to 4 mm), which makes it impossible to cut two absolutely identical tiles.

An important part in a tile cutter is the cutting wheel; on average, its operating limit is 800 square meters tiles This indicator applies to high-quality branded models; in Chinese analogues, this wheel fails much faster.

Bulgarian

The grinder is one of the most important tools when laying tiles. In order to cut tiles, you can purchase a Makita 9554 grinder, which costs about three thousand rubles. To work with tiles, special diamond-coated wheels are used. Often, inexperienced sellers try to sell discs for concrete or stone instead of such discs. For cutting tiles, completely smooth discs without holes are used in order to minimize the number of chips.

Wire cutters

Another tool that may be required when laying tiles is nippers. They may be needed when the tile cannot be broken off along the cut.

Nippers can be divided into two types:

• Wire cutters with pobedite surfacing. However, they do not necessarily have to have a hard cutting part, since the tile can be broken off along the cut line.
• Parrot nippers. These cutters will help you create round cuts, for example for a pipe or socket. If you made the hole incorrectly, you can correct it using pliers.

Now let's list what tools may be required when grouting joints?

• Plastic container (preferably 2 liters).
• Grouting spatula. Small rubber spatulas Suitable only for one-time work.
• Scrub grater. It will be needed to quickly remove half-dried grout.
• Felt mitten. With its help it is convenient to remove plaque that appears the next day after grouting.

How to cut tiles

When laying tiles, it is very common to trim the tiles. Let's talk about how to cut tiles at home, and what methods exist for this.

Cutting tiles with a portable electric tile cutter

This method is one of the highest quality and most productive. If you cut with such a tool using a diamond cutting wheel and water supply, the cut will be high-quality and clean. Another advantage of this method is that it does not generate dust and does not require any physical effort.

But since the cost of such tile cutters starts from approximately $700, the use of such equipment is advisable for large volumes of work.

Application of manual tile cutter

This tile cutter is much cheaper than an electric one and is quite suitable for medium and small volumes of work. Working with such a tile cutter is very simple, you just need to mark the tiles and make the cut in the direction away from you. The cost of such tile cutters ranges from $40 to $300.

Cutting tiles at home using a grinder

You can also cut tiles with your own hands using a grinder. This does not require any special skills, the principle is very simple - we connect the tool to the network, turn it on and when the disk reaches the required speed, we cut the tiles in the direction “away from us”, according to the previously applied markings. For cutting tiles, it is most convenient to use a grinder with the ability to adjust the speed. It is recommended to operate at a speed of no more than 3,500 rpm. If you cut tiles at a higher speed, the ceramic will crack.

The disadvantages of using a grinder are that a large amount of dust is generated during the cutting process, and also that the edges of the tiles in this case are not very neat. In this case, the edges often have to be refined using nippers and a file. When using an angle grinder, you must use safety glasses, a respirator and gloves.

Preparing the base

Preparing the base for tiles deserves a separate discussion. The quality of installation depends very much on this. Usually in articles about proper tile laying it is assumed that the surface of the wall or floor is ideally prepared for it. It must be borne in mind that it is almost impossible to lay even the most good material on an uneven or otherwise non-compliant surface.

It should be taken into account that the tiles have quite a lot of weight, so they need to be glued to durable materials that can withstand it. There should not be any irregularities on the surface. In order for the tile to be securely attached to the wall, it is necessary to ensure maximum adhesion between its surface and the base. To do this, the wall or floor must be cleaned of dirt and dust, dried and degreased.

A rule should be used to check the surface of the walls. A layer of plaster can be used to correct deficiencies if they are identified and turn out to be significant. If we're talking about about finishing the floor, it is advisable to do it first using self-leveling cement mixtures screed before laying tiles.

Walls made of brick and concrete are pre-plastered, puttied and coated with primer. It is always recommended to use a deep penetration primer during preparatory work for laying tiles, regardless of what surface material we are talking about. This treatment will give the base water-repellent characteristics and make the adhesion between the materials more reliable.

On top paint and varnish materials You should not lay tiles, as they may fall along with it, peeling off from the base. Paint and other similar coatings should be removed with a spatula to ensure a higher level of adhesion. Cleaners old paint in liquid form will help to carry out this work more efficiently and quickly. If you cannot remove the paint with a spatula, you can take an ax or chisel and make frequent notches on it.

It is not allowed to glue tiles on top of wallpaper. They must be removed and then the base must be primed. Paper wallpaper It will be much easier to remove from the wall if you wet them first. You can use a spray bottle for this. Afterwards you can take a spatula and easily remove the soaked material. If we are talking about vinyl wallpaper, the outer vinyl layer is first removed from them. The paper backing is removed with water in the manner described above. You can, of course, use chemicals designed specifically for this purpose, but water is a more environmentally friendly option.

If there are water pipes, ventilation pipes and other pipes in the room network engineering, they can be covered with drywall. This material is excellent for this use.

Finishing wooden walls with tiles usually causes a lot of difficulties. There is nothing impossible about this, but you need to take into account that, depending on the surrounding temperature and humidity, wood can “play”, so the walls must first be covered with plasterboard. Thus, they will become perfectly even, and you can safely continue finishing. The task of covering wooden walls with ceramic tiles has recently faced builders and finishers more and more often, since ceramics are used for finishing in bathrooms and toilets. wooden buildings, for finishing baths and in other similar situations.

Inexperienced people often have a question about the need to use a gypsum mixture for plaster before laying tiles. Carrying out interior decoration It is usually much faster and more convenient to work with this mixture.

You can also plaster it before the tiles, but in this case the surface will need to be additionally primed with concrete contact soil. So that it lies securely and does not peel off afterwards and is not peeled off in some places like a skin, it is better to treat the surface in front of it with a deep penetration primer.

If you need to lay tiles over oil paint, it is certainly better to remove it first. You can often come across recommendations to make notches on it, but it is not always possible to obtain the desired result with their help. If the paint sits tightly and cannot be removed, you should use Benton Contact primer.

This soil is generally very versatile. With its help, you can even apply plaster and glue a new layer of tile on top of the old one. You can also use it on glass surfaces.

When preparing the surface, polymer putty and whitewash are mandatory for removal. You can, of course, try to stick the tiles on top of them, but they will definitely fall off after a while.

Before installing the tiles, you need to prepare stops for the first row and make markings. To lay the first row, you need to secure a wooden strip or a plastic corner for support. Vertical laying is controlled using drawn lines. A plumb line will help make them even. If you need to make a mosaic installation or decorate the wall with multi-colored tiles, it is better to mark the places where each type is installed on the wall with signs.

When forming a certain pattern on the wall, marks are applied to locations that differ from other tiles. Laying tiles on the floor should begin from the far corner. But at the same time, the first rows from the walls will need to be positioned in such a way that the tiles that fall into place next to the entrance do not need to be cut, that is, they should remain intact. It is necessary not to forget in the calculations about the gaps between individual tiles.

Tile laying methods

This is one of the most popular and easiest methods. Tiles in the shape of a square or rectangle are suitable for it. Sometimes it can be slightly elongated. Each of the tiles is carefully laid out in an even row.

If we talk about finishing the walls in the room, the tiled side edge should create a parallel with the walls, and the lower and upper edges with the floor surface. If you are interested in the correct installation of tiles on the floor surface, in this case the tile edges should be parallel to the planes of the walls in the room.

This installation takes very little effort and time. But if you want to extend the life of the tiles and maintain its presentable appearance for a long time. Pay attention to the following tips:

• Start laying tiles from the central part of the floor. This way you will create symmetry: if one of the elements needs to be reduced in size on one side, then the same will have to be done on the other side.
• Begin laying the new floor elements from the second row, as the first row may require cutting of tiles. This technology is developed based on the problem of uneven surfaces. If you start laying tiles from the first row, the entire tile sheet may go down the slope.

The basic method became the basis for the origin of various variations of flooring. Diagonal laying has not been left aside. This method requires time and effort, but the result is guaranteed to exceed all expectations.

This pattern can be assembled only from square tile elements. Each of the pieces is laid out strictly at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the line of the walls. Typically, for this method of laying floors, choose tiles made in one shade. The difficulties with this method lie in the need to trim the tiles along the wall line. Also, this type of installation takes a lot of time, and the working materials are consumed at a high speed.

But by using this method, you have the opportunity to visually make the room much wider, additionally hiding all the errors and unevenness on the floor.
Many designs use this method in a combination of two colors, where dark tiles are usually intertwined with light tiles.

Before installation, you need to prepare in advance all the necessary Consumables and floor surface. It must be completely freed from the old coating, as well as washed from dust, dirt and preferably degreased. After following these recommendations, the surface is leveled and primed; this step is necessary for any type of floor installation.

If you are laying tiles using the diagonal method, the first row should be laid in the same way as for the basic installation. Rectangular shaped tiles are best, but their length should not differ from the square sample. Then pre-cut triangular pieces of tiles are placed on the floor.

• The tile row lies at an angle.
• The tile row should be laid horizontally.

The first method requires professionalism, so specialists work with it, but the second method is suitable for use by beginners.
The only thing is that you need to carefully ensure that the opposite corners form a vertical or horizontal line between themselves, while at the same time forming a parallel with the walls in the room.

This method is no less popular than the previous two. In this case, the tiled elements are laid out on the floor in the same way as laying bricks.

This installation is especially suitable for kitchen area or corridor.
If you select and arrange consumables correctly, the end result can be a very unusual and interesting appearance.

The tiles must be laid in such a way that the tile joints are located exactly in the middle relative to the tiles from the next row. This method is almost no different from the basic laying method, however, in this case, rows can only be laid horizontally.

You also need to carefully monitor the thickness of the seams; it should be the same everywhere. If it is different, the pattern will begin to shift, the rows will be unequal in comparison with each other. To perform the job efficiently, you must use a mooring cord.

If you want to use mastic, make the floor surface as smooth as possible in advance.
To do this, beacon tiles are placed in each corner, thereby determining the surface level. The floor screed is sprayed with water, you can moisten it with a roller, then the fixing mixture is spread over the floor, on which the tiles themselves are placed. They are laid out according to a guideline with lighthouse tiles in the corners. Next, the surface is leveled, and after finishing the work, the beacons are removed from the corners.
The mixture will completely harden after 72 hours, after which the tile joints are covered with mortar or diluted cement.

This installation method flooring looks quite unusual. The tile elements are laid in the same way as when installing a parquet floor. Therefore, materials that look like wood are ideal for this method.
To lay tiles using this method, you need to stock up on rectangular tile elements.
There are two types of this method: a regular “herringbone” and a “herringbone” with an additional attachment.

This method of laying tiles is ideal for irregularly shaped rooms.
Exist different types of this method: “herringbone” and “herringbone with attachment”.
This pattern looks very good in irregularly shaped rooms.
For this type of installation, any single-color samples are suitable; you should not choose tiled elements stylized as stone.

Speaking directly about the technological side, it is recommended to lay the material diagonally. If you imagine a wind rose in your mind, then the first piece of tile is laid in the northwest direction, the other in the northeast direction, alternating them with each other. This method can also be used in different ways in relation to walls, while each new option will look very unusual.

This method does not leave behind a large number of tile scraps.

Even non-professionals can master this method; here you can completely surrender to your imagination and express your “I” in finishing the floor.

To work, you must definitely make a harness; usually it is made of tile material, which creates a contrast with the main color of the materials. First of all, the tiles are placed in the central part, and the ornament can be absolutely anything, it all depends on your taste. Using this method, you can interestingly highlight the dining area or any space in the room on the floor.

How to lay tiles on a wall with your own hands

Before starting work, prepare a solution or adhesive composition. For this purpose, pour into water in small portions ready mix and mix with a drill and mixer. You should not add a large volume of the mixture right away. As a result, the solution should not be too liquid, because it will float off the wall. At the same time, the solution should not be too thick, in which case it will be problematic to lay tiles on the wall.

Which row should I start laying tiles from: 1st or 2nd?

In the first case, the tiles begin to be laid from the bottom up, so the first row is laid first, then all subsequent ones. To ensure that the rows of tiles are formed evenly, before starting laying, a lath is laid on the floor in a horizontal position, for which a level is used. The bottom row is placed strictly along the rail.

In the second case, laying tiles on the wall begins from the bottom from the second row. For this purpose, a wide metal profile for plasterboard CD-60 is fixed to the wall in advance. The profile is leveled using a level and mounted on the wall. Its top shelf should be on the bottom line of the 2nd row of tiles.

To determine where the second row of tiles will be located, you need to measure the height of the tiles from the floor surface, adding the thickness of the seams, and mark the mark. If the floor surface is uneven (non-horizontal), this distance is relative to the highest place. The profile is mounted relative to the set mark. At the same time, it is attached in a strictly horizontal position so that the tiles are laid properly on the wall.

In each of the corners of the wall, a lath is nailed in a vertical position, plumb. Nails are driven into the corner slats, starting from the level of the second and subsequent rows. A nylon cord is pulled between the nails. It is used to control the horizontality of the rows.

When the entire surface is tiled, the slats are removed and tiles are laid in their place. In the case when laying tiles begins from the 2nd row using a metal profile, when the top rows of tiles are laid, metallic profile is deleted. The first row of tiles is laid out at this point.

How to apply mortar or adhesive to a wall

During operation, the solution can be applied to the wall or tiles. In the latter case, using a notched trowel, the solution is applied to the bottom of the tile, after which it is applied to the wall. This method is used most often when the tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar.

In the first case, the mortar is applied to the wall with a standard spatula, after which it is leveled with a notched trowel and tiles are laid on top. The method is used in most cases if the tiles are laid on an adhesive base.

Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands

The tile is pressed with slight force onto the wall surface so that the adhesive base is evenly distributed over the entire surface. The operation is repeated for all tile segments. Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles to adjust the thickness of the seam between the outer tiles. The seam has a thickness of 2 to 4 mm. If you do not make a gap between the tiles, then when the temperature rises, the tiles will crack and peel off from the wall.

The laying of tiles horizontally or vertically is continuously controlled by a level. If ceramic tiles are laid on cement mortar, it is soaked in water in advance. To prevent instant absorption of water from the solution, due to which it will lose its plasticity, installation will become impossible or very difficult. There is no need to soak the tiles if an adhesive solution is used.

How to cut tiles with your own hands

Situations arise when tiles need to be cut, for example, if a whole number of tiles do not fit in a row. A special tile cutter is used; if it is not available, a grinder is used - a special cutting wheel for ceramic tiles is used. The first step is to measure which part of the tile needs to be cut. They mark a line along which they then cut, taking into account the thickness of the slot; it depends on the thickness of the circle. To get an even cut, use a homemade ruler made of hard wood.

There are several placement methods:

• Seam to seam.
• At a run.
• Diagonally.

The last method is the most labor-intensive and requires significant investment - all tiles adjacent to the corners are cut, including the tiles of the bottom and top rows.
By bandaging the seams, in a checkerboard pattern (staggered), it is much easier to lay the tiles; only the tiles adjacent to the wall in the corners are cut off.

Seam to seam, tiles can be laid asymmetrically or symmetrically. In the latter case, the tiles are placed in the center of the row, from this place the cladding is carried out to the right and left. In the case of asymmetrical placement, the first tile is laid in one of the corners, and a horizontal row begins from it to the corner opposite. In such a situation, the tile adjacent to one of the corners is cut. In this case, waste is minimal and the method is much simpler.

The tiles are laid in a similar sequence. Placed in the direction of the door from the far corner. To control the correctness of the masonry, pull the thread. The rows turn out to be even, parallel to each other, and do not shift. Using a level, the horizontalness of the row and each individual tile is controlled. If the room is large, use a large level or place it on a rule attached to the floor surface.

Using a notched trowel, apply an adhesive solution to the surface of the tile. Tiles rubber or wooden hammer shrinks until it is equal to the thread level. If the tile falls below this level, it is torn off and additional mortar is added.

When the tiles are laid on the insulation, a special mesh is first laid and fixed onto it. After which the surface is primed to ensure maximum adhesion of the solution or adhesive mixture.

How to choose the right grout

Very often, when they buy tiles during renovation, they do not pay the necessary attention to the choice of grout. Maybe this is explained by the fact that this is the last stage of the work, while the most difficult and large-scale work has been completed, but you want to complete it as soon as possible and see the result. Although, quite often, due to such small touches, the result of the work is not pleasing, the overall picture turns out to be spoiled. Therefore, on small parts need to pay due attention. And the role of seams between tiles in creating a beautiful and reliable ceramic coating is not the least.

How to rub seams

What should be the width of the seam?

Once upon a time, determining the width of a seam was very simple. After all, for a very long time wall tiles were of much higher quality than floor tiles. Floor tiles had to withstand strong temperature changes and significant loads. All this could be compensated for with thick seams.

Cement grout

This is one of the most common and economical types of material. In most cases it is produced as a bulk substance. It must be diluted to the desired consistency with liquid latex or water. There is cement grout, which can consist only of Portland cement, or of sand and Portland cement. It also adds special means, which do not allow the appearance of dirt or mold.

Basically, simple cement grout is used for joints whose width is half a centimeter. If the seams are wider, then use a grout that contains sand. At the same time, we must not forget that it cannot be used for tiles lined with enamel. The coating can be scratched by grains of sand.

Epoxy grout

This material is characterized by a higher cost and is more difficult to apply. When applying, all proportions must be observed. The material has many advantages. This grout is susceptible to exposure to sunlight and chemical detergents. When dried, the color does not change under the influence of temperature changes and does not allow the formation of fungus.

Epoxy grout: this is what this material is commonly called. In fact, this mortar hardens much faster than ordinary cement mortar. The name “two-component” is more accurate because it consists of two parts. The first part is epoxy resin with flint filler. The second part is a special hardener. When they are mixed, a mass is obtained with which you can perfectly seal tile joints.

Over time, this grout does not change its color, since the color is imparted by quartz sand, and not by dye. Thanks to this, you can get any desired shade, even sparkling or transparent grout like silver, gold or metallic.
Grout color range.

An instructional article for those who decided to lay tiles in the bathroom without any construction experience. The work process is described in detail: preparing the room, leveling the walls, tiling the walls with ceramic tiles. Recommendations from experienced tilers are given.

High-quality bathroom tile installation involves using the most practical finishing material that meets increased moisture resistance requirements. Bathrooms are traditionally tiled with ceramic tiles, which are highly durable, impervious to moisture and easy to clean.

We invite you to read the step-by-step instructions and watch the video “Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands in the bathroom” so that you can complete all the work on your own at a high level and avoid possible mistakes.

List of required tools:

• building level, square;
• grinder and tile cutter;
• metal and plastic spatulas;
• mixer;
• rule;
• roller;
• sponge for removing excess glue;
• gloves, protective mask or goggles;
• construction garbage bags.

Before laying tiles in the bathroom, you need to prepare all the necessary materials, choose the appropriate tile size, and most importantly, correctly calculate its quantity. If your budget allows, preference should be given to AA grade tiles, which are distinguished by the most high quality and has a minimum number of pores into which moisture can penetrate, forming mold.

Important! Tiles intended for placement on bathroom walls are marked with special hand icons, while floor tiles are marked with a foot icon.

Of course, laying large tiles is easier and faster, the number of seams is reduced, but this option is not suitable for small room, as it will visually make it even smaller. A medium-sized rectangular tile will “raise” the ceiling slightly.

Ceramic tiles are laid using a special cement-based adhesive or adhesive mastic. For this, a special powder tile adhesive is used, previously diluted in water.

If the cladding involves the use of small-sized tiles, then you can take a special glue without additives, but if you are laying large-sized porcelain tiles, you will need reinforced glue.

Laying tiles is more convenient and faster when using special plastic crosses, which should definitely be purchased at hardware store- they will help make the seams even.

(As a last resort, you can use matches, but they will give a certain error, unlike plastic crosses.)

How to calculate the required number of tiles

To avoid unnecessary expenses and not to buy extra material, or vice versa, not to urgently run to the store for the missing quantity, you need to correctly calculate the number of tiles.

To do this, it is mandatory to take measurements of the room, taking into account the location of the washbasin, bathtub and other plumbing fixtures: it is advisable to draw a plan in compliance with the exact scale of each individual wall, and then draw on it the contours of the future tiles and calculate their exact quantity.

Advice! Buy tiles from the same batch to avoid texture differences and color mismatches.

You should take the material in reserve - laying tiles in the bathroom is not complete without trimming, in any case there will be a certain percentage of waste.

You should carry out calculations especially responsibly if you have chosen tiles with a pattern. 10% should be added to the planned amount of material (and for those who are performing work for the first time, you can safely add the entire 15%).

Stage I. Preparing a room for renovation

1. All furniture, mirrors and other objects that will interfere with the work are removed. The water supply is cut off; it is advisable to dismantle the plumbing, if possible;
2. The old covering (tiles, plastic panels, paint, etc.) is removed from the walls, which is packed into bags and taken out as construction waste;
3. The walls must be leveled - determine how much flat wall, you can use a square and a level or using a plumb line. You can easily handle the application of plaster with your own hands;
4. The walls are primed using a roller, and after drying, beacons are attached to them leveled with wet glue (the beacons must be on the same vertical plane). After this, you need to let the surface dry completely;
5. The surface of the walls is re-primed, after which the solution is prepared and the tiles are laid in the bathroom.

Another option for leveling the walls is possible - laying tiles on drywall. In this case, sheets of plasterboard (moisture-resistant) are attached to the profiles, and then the tiles are directly laid on the plasterboard using an adhesive solution.

This option is much simpler and allows you to achieve the most even surface of the wall, which is necessary for the tiles to hold well and lie flat.

Stage II. Preparation of the solution

It is better to use special glue, but if you don’t have it, you can do without it.

Cement-based mortar can be easily prepared with your own hands:

• take cement and sand in a ratio of 1:4;
• constantly stirring the mixture with a mixer, add the required amount of water in a thin stream until a thick solution is obtained;
• Construction mastic or bustylate is added to the solution, which enhances its adhesive properties.

A solution based on a dry mixture is even easier to prepare: just pour water into a container and gradually add the dry mixture until the slightest lumps disappear from the glue. It is also convenient to use a construction mixer for this.

Important! While the solution is being prepared, the tiles must be placed in water, since it back side instantly absorbs moisture contained in the solution. If you forget to do this, before laying the tiles in the bathroom, first wet them in a bucket of water. It is recommended to prime cheap tile products with a mixture of PVA and water in a ratio of 1:10.

Stage III. Laying tiles on the wall

• Before gluing the tiles, the height is measured again, which is divided by the size of the tiles - using a tile cutter, the tiles are cut so that the cut pieces can be used below, that is, in places where they are less noticeable.

  Attention! When working with a grinder or tile cutter, do not forget to wear safety glasses, a mask and gloves!

• The solution is thrown onto the wall with sharp movements and leveled in a circular motion; the excess is removed by hand using a rule.

• The rail is fixed at the bottom along the height of the cut tiles plus 3-5 mm for the seam, but the row itself will be laid out from a whole tile, and the trimmings will be laid at the very end, that is, after all the other rows have been laid.
• Using a metal notched trowel, apply a small amount of adhesive to the tile, and then press it against the wall, turning it slightly along its axis.
  

  Advice! After you lay the first row with your own hands, let the glue set - this will allow you not to be afraid of displacement when laying the next rows.

• To achieve equal gaps between the products, plastic crosses are used - after gluing the tiles is finished, the solution is allowed to dry, and then the crosses are carefully removed.

After the bottom layer is ready, planks should be installed on its sides, checking their correct location using a level. In order not to check the level on each row, you can use a thread stretched horizontally along the height of the tiles above the row - it will become an excellent guide and will significantly speed up the laying process.

Important! If there is a break between laying rows, you should make sure that there is no mortar left on the wall - when it dries, removing it will be problematic, and the tiles will lie less firmly and risk falling off in the future.

Stage IV. Grouting tile joints

After all work is completed, the tiles are carefully cleaned of any remaining adhesive and mortar. Since the solution is still wet, you need to remove the residue very carefully, or it is better to wait until it dries and wash the surface of the tiles without risking moving the rows.

In order for the cladding to have a complete look, at the final stage, after the mixture has completely dried, the seams are necessary. It's better to give preference

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing rooms with special conditions operation. Such cladding is not afraid of exposure to high humidity, temperature changes, abrasive loads, and is itself very attractive in appearance and easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms – you can’t find anything better. And what’s also important is that you can handle the installation process yourself.

Why does it make sense to try doing the cladding yourself? It’s just that even if the surfaces to be laid are perfectly flat, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of a specialist as the material itself costs, and this is even in the best case. Such expenses can be completely avoided. Having become acquainted with our article-instruction how to lay tiles on a wall, the reader will get a clear understanding of all stages of the work, from preparing surfaces and choosing tiles to sealing joints. And you will certainly be convinced that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such finishing.

Preliminary stages

Preparing surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on a wall that is not prepared for this. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the “ugliness” of the surface, and the result will be a straight line. beautiful wall. They are sorely mistaken!

What does the preparation process include?

• It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. It will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Completely excluded or even small fragments thereof. If there was previously a tile on the wall, then after dismantling it, all sagging and drops of hardened glue should be removed.

• The quality of the plaster layer, if any, must be checked. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area and identify areas of instability that must also be removed. And most often it happens that if a peeling area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

• In no case should it be ignored if traces of biological damage are found on the walls - mold stains, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then a preliminary “treatment” of the wall will have to be carried out

• There should be no gaps or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate renovation work according to their quality of sealing.

• The wall must be flat, that is, it must be a plane, and not a twisted, piled-up, protruding or concave surface. The tiles can be laid on leveled walls without any problems. Yes, there are methods for leveling walls by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer has to “debut”, there’s no need to even think about it. It will be much easier to carry out leveling - and the finish will definitely be of high quality.

There are many ways to level, and some of them, for example, use moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum fiber slabs are not so complicated and will not require much time.

Prices for moisture-resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

How to level the walls yourself for finishing?

Don't be intimidated by this task in advance. There are many available technologies that even beginners can quickly master. Moreover, laying tiles does not require a perfectly smooth surface - the correct geometry is sufficient. are discussed in detail in a special publication on our portal.

• Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so it’s worth thinking about reliable waterproofing. This applies to a greater extent, of course, to the floor, but it also makes sense to provide on the walls waterproofed“belt” at least 100÷200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is advisable to reinforce with waterproofing the areas of passage through the walls of water supply and sewer pipes, areas around water outlets.

And in frankly “wet” areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to carry out continuous waterproofing. Approximate size standards for these areas are shown in the illustration:

• Finally, the wall must be carefully primed with a deep penetration compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface and eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden in optimal conditions. The best adhesion performance is achieved. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never be superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting until the first layer has completely dried. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant time gap between this stage and finishing, then it would be advisable to apply the primer again - a day before the start of installation of the tiles. This way, a high-quality result will be guaranteed.

Prices for primer for walls

primer for walls

Drawing up a project and selecting the required tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will only focus on some practical aspects.

Planning the placement of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners should already have an idea of ​​what they want to see in the end. You've probably gotten acquainted with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, they just have to “fit” the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their room.

Here you should not rely on your eyes. The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each wall separately. Moreover, if it is not intended to be continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or divided into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites that allow you to optimally place tiles on the walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own either in a graphic editor, or simply on paper diagrams.

• In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will be on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately figure out which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area accurately. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the gaze of those entering, such placement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose a location such that you start from the center of the wall - AThenfrom It is laid to the edges with equal trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tile. It often happens that the optimal layout seems to be when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then the layout goes to the sides with, again, symmetrical trimming along the edges.

The cut edges can be easily hidden by laying solid tiles from the corner on the adjacent wall. If two cut edges meet in the inner corner, then this too can be solved by grinding one of them. It does this job well on outside corners. decorative corner. More details will be discussed later.

• They also show the necessary “creativity” when planning vertical rows. So, the installation, which ends in a narrow section under the ceiling, does not look particularly advantageous. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or suspended ceiling.

But the narrow section can be removed first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will become completely unnoticeable visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. More precisely, it is generally recommended to lay out this bottom row last, so no problems with precise trimming are expected. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may also influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. These may be features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place the tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the side by 20-30 mm. This will not disturb the aesthetics of the installation, and will remove the vulnerable seam from the “wet” area.

• When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Don't let this seem like a trifle: when used, it's not particularly large tiles yeah on the wall large area– the difference is considerable.

When laying on a wall, too thick joints are most often not required. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting the joints with fugue visual effect the thickness will change slightly - the gaps will seem wider.

• It is clear that when drawing up diagrams, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and others decorative elements. If a fully developed plan for each wall is always at hand, then during the installation process there is much less chance of making a mistake.

Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

Tiles designed for walls are much easier than floor tiles. Indicators of its strength, abrasive resistance, roughness, etc. fade into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate topic. But some important points still need to be emphasized.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

• There is a very wide variety of formats on sale. But you shouldn’t immediately chase large tiles. Firstly, it doesn’t look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it there can be a lot of waste, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, installation of such cladding requires some experience, and a novice master may not be able to cope with the task - any mistake will be visible.

If there is a first DIY installation tiles, it is better to proceed from its average size, for example, up to 300÷400 mm on the long side.

• should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
• If you plan to cover walls in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for a material marked with a snowflake icon - it is not afraid of freezing.
• It is mandatory that all purchased packages of tiles of the same type are checked for batch matching. The fact is that the same article, but released on different shifts, may differ slightly in color tone. This is most often not noticed visually in the store. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil the overall appearance.

• Of course, they try to purchase as many tiles as possible. high grade. Even at factories, products are sorted, and products with distorted shapes go on sale as second- or even third-rate. You can be exhausted when styling them.
• Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specifics of ceramic production do not yet allow us to achieve a unique match in the sizes of all tiles without exception. The packaging of the tile may indicate its caliber - alphabetic or numerical designation, and attach a plate with its decoding.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to it, since unjustified savings can lead to unsuccessful finishing, and in in the end the total costs will be clearly “minus”.

• In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to purchase the missing quantity - the required batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with proper layout and quality cutting This is enough material. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the margin can be increased to 15% - there will be more waste in any case. But let us immediately note that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal installation without good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
• Do not hesitate to ask the store to check all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and obvious defects sometimes come across.

• Even first-class tiles from the same batch and the most precise caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for lining the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - pushed “to the periphery”. And having the most significant dimensional distortions or with minor defects– already used for cutting to fill areas along corners or the floor.
• The quantity of tiles is usually calculated individually. This can be done if a high-quality scheme is drawn up. And even more so, you will have to do this when you plan to use several varieties to create a special decorative interior.

But in the case when it is intended to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There you will need to indicate the finishing area, the dimensions of the tiles and the width of the tile joint. The reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the layout principle.